lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
knitting!
I'm still working on pattern 1 of my yarn club. Her name is Lisette.
I'm up to the start of the 4th repeat of the pattern. it's complicated looking lae, but there's a rhythm. I've learned lace techniqes, increase techniques, lifelines, and a piot edging from this project.
Geez, you've gotten good at this quickly. Also, that yarn's gorgeous.
it's so prettttyyyyy.
handspun/handdyed 100% New Zealand wool. It's soooo nice to work with and I love it and I can't wait until this shawl is done cause I'm gonna wrap myself up in it an then spin around in circles.
i did a thing today i been trying to do off and on for like two years!
i cut up a bunch of copper and nickel silver into 1" squares, stacked them up and wired them together, slathered the whole thing in borax dissolved in denatured alcohol, then forge welded them together. it ended up being a cube about an inch on a side which i then spent way too long drawing out into an 1/8"ish sheet, then soaked it in some hydrochloric acid to bring out the pattern. the pix don't show it too well but the cross section has a really nice zebra stripe pattern to it
i didn't do a fantastic job at it. it took too many heats in the forge which burned the piece a little and a charcoal forge isn't the best for this kind of work in the first place, but this was a good first step
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
As an aside, I absolutely love knitting with gradients.
I'm working on a little cardigan for October's trips to the states, and it's ust stockinette now that the arms are done and it could be boring, but hang on, there's a gradient! i can't wait for the next colour change!
what we have here is a 4.5" leg vise. it weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 65 or 70 lbs, hella beefy. it was made probably sometime in the mid or late 1800s
i can't wait to put together a stand for this thing
craft thread I have three or four comparitively giant empty windowsills, which I want to do something with to make the place more home-y. So I've decided I need more vases. But I don't want to spend money on vases, so I'm making them out of household junk.
So far I've only got the one (hot chocolate tin + paper I already owned). But I've got big plans for this olive oil bottle once I'm done with it.
i literally started this shawl almost 6 years ago, but also dropped a bunch of lace off the needles not long thereafter, so it hibernated due to my heartbreak and ignorance. (first shawl, first chart.... what's a lifeline?)
i frogged it Friday and cast on Saturday to try a variation out. not sure how i feel about the pooling, but i'm going to stick with the stockinette for a bit and Frankenstein this thing together. i am thinking to integrate the fern lace in Chart A in a wedge towards the bottom. hmm, kinda wishing i'd kfb on the spine instead of the YOs... not frogging for that, nope! ... well... maybe to the lifeline. :shifty:
edit: maybe i can drop down to the lifeline and twist the yarnovers?... and would i need to increase by a couple more stitches so it doesn't pull in, hmm..
nope, the way i increased would have required a lot of shifting stitches to ladder down, so i just ripped back. wool is so lovely for stitches staying put.
you might want to make a small section of mail and test the dip on it before you dip your gloves. i'm pretty sure it'll stiffen the links up to the point where it'd be hard to move around in the gloves
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited September 2016
my plan was to just brush it onto the fingertips, but that's still a good idea
Caulk Bite 6 on
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ResIpsaLoquiturNot a grammar nazi, just alt-write.Registered Userregular
What power tools would people suggest for paper cutting? I have been hand-hollowing books on and off for a while, but there's only so good I'm going to get at it with punches, box cutters, and xacto knives. I've got a couple of projects in mind for the fall/holiday season, but I'd like to step my game up. I live in an apartment, so bigger machines are unfortunately not an option. I've been thinking about dremel, but I'd hate to dive down that rabbit hole and find it not to be a good fit.
If I can be forgiven for showing off, this is my favorite creation (the bias should be obvious):
Magnets are embedded on the right hand side, and a strip of thin, flat metal is hidden under the left hand side. The edges are a little more yellow than I had intended--the "gilding" was a success at distances great than 10 feet, but not when you look close.
My wife does papercraft, and that's who I picked this interest up from. She handmade our wedding invitations, which makes my contribution feel paltry by comparison.
(You can't easily tell from the framed version, below, but the invites actually opened up in the middle)
@ResIpsaLoquitur a small reciprocating saw would work pretty well for hollowing out a book, i think dremel makes one. you could also use a scroll saw, drill a hole, thread the blade into the hole and then cut the pages. stay away from abrasives, paper itself is abrasive as hell so it'll wear down the cutter very quickly. i'd also be leery of rotary tools in general, i'm pretty sure having many thin layers you're trying to cut will make anything spinning much likelier to bind up on you and that's to be avoided
Had a productive day! It doesn't look like much yet, but these are the frames for the outdoor cat lounge I'm making for our kitties.
Next step will be painting them white so they look nice (as it's going to be on our deck) and affixing some screening. That'll probably have to be next weekend... the cutting, sanding and screwing took a bit longer than I'd anticipated. Thank you for your help, @a duck!
The idea is that the back section will be unscreened and butted up against the house, where the cats will be able to enter and exit through one of the deck windows. Going to make 2 carpeted 'levels' so they can get some climbing in.
My goal is for it to be collapsible for the winter. It's made out of 2X2s, so it's relatively light, and each panel will be able to come apart from the others for storage.
@ResIpsaLoquitur a small reciprocating saw would work pretty well for hollowing out a book, i think dremel makes one. you could also use a scroll saw, drill a hole, thread the blade into the hole and then cut the pages. stay away from abrasives, paper itself is abrasive as hell so it'll wear down the cutter very quickly. i'd also be leery of rotary tools in general, i'm pretty sure having many thin layers you're trying to cut will make anything spinning much likelier to bind up on you and that's to be avoided
An easy fix for that is to use a clear adhesive and lightly brush it on between pages before using a rotary tool, just make sure to let it cure for a full twenty four hours. Clear two-part epoxy with a throw-away brush won't even break ten bucks at a home improvement store; for the final sections that need to be open like the above photo, a piece of wax paper or butcher's paper can be folded over in between the 'open' pieces and the excess epoxy can be trimmed with an exacto blade. The downside to this method is that the spine of the pages will have to be separate from the spine of the book because the pages basically become an inflexible brick.
To keep the pages flexible and still get a clean edge would require a blank of hard plastic or scrap wood that's cut to the specific measurements desired. You'd have to lay the blank on top of the pages, clamp them down from every angle, and then cut with the rotary tool. In this instance, a rotary tool or even a wood router might do the trick quite nicely, but it ultimately depends on how secure the pages are underneath the blank so as not to shear the pages.
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ResIpsaLoquiturNot a grammar nazi, just alt-write.Registered Userregular
@ResIpsaLoquitur a small reciprocating saw would work pretty well for hollowing out a book, i think dremel makes one. you could also use a scroll saw, drill a hole, thread the blade into the hole and then cut the pages. stay away from abrasives, paper itself is abrasive as hell so it'll wear down the cutter very quickly. i'd also be leery of rotary tools in general, i'm pretty sure having many thin layers you're trying to cut will make anything spinning much likelier to bind up on you and that's to be avoided
An easy fix for that is to use a clear adhesive and lightly brush it on between pages before using a rotary tool, just make sure to let it cure for a full twenty four hours. Clear two-part epoxy with a throw-away brush won't even break ten bucks at a home improvement store; for the final sections that need to be open like the above photo, a piece of wax paper or butcher's paper can be folded over in between the 'open' pieces and the excess epoxy can be trimmed with an exacto blade. The downside to this method is that the spine of the pages will have to be separate from the spine of the book because the pages basically become an inflexible brick.
To keep the pages flexible and still get a clean edge would require a blank of hard plastic or scrap wood that's cut to the specific measurements desired. You'd have to lay the blank on top of the pages, clamp them down from every angle, and then cut with the rotary tool. In this instance, a rotary tool or even a wood router might do the trick quite nicely, but it ultimately depends on how secure the pages are underneath the blank so as not to shear the pages.
I do what you suggest for the adhesive already, but only around the sides. A thin brushing of Mod-Podge (using wax paper so the free pages and covers stay unglued) along the edge gives a pretty strong seal, while not drenching the pages themselves too badly. I haven't experimented brushing any sort of adhesive on the pages for a few reasons: 1) the possibility of warping the pages too badly, and 2) the added thickness by using that much glue (even a thin coat between pages adds up). From there, I will use a very thin drill bit to mark the corners (or center, in the case of the circular holes in the ring-book, above) of the shape, using clamps to keep the pages still. From there, I'll use a metal straightedge to get the cuts about a 1/4" deep, and free hand it from there.
I'm going to experiment on a throw-away to see whether my concerns about "too much" adhesive are valid. In terms of a next project, I have a copy of "The Book of Virtues" by William Bennett, which will be storing a specially curated Cards Against Humanity set.
League of Legends: MichaelDominick; Blizzard(NA): MichaelD#11402; Steam ID: MichaelDominick
I'm going to experiment on a throw-away to see whether my concerns about "too much" adhesive are valid. In terms of a next project, I have a copy of "The Book of Virtues" by William Bennett, which will be storing a specially curated Cards Against Humanity set.
hmm hmm hmmmm
probably another 10-20 rows of stockinette and non-increasing mesh, and then on to the border. i wanted smaller eyelets but couldn't settle on anything, and i'm still in debate about the whole kit, anyway, so i guess i'm just committed to this flaming to its conclusion.
(i don't think it looks bad, i just don't love it. but i also need to practice faith in myself and in improvising, and just see something through for a bit.) note the lifeline at the start of the mesh, tho.
oh! something about knitting backwards clicked in my head the other day, so i am happily doing that to give my wrists a break from purling. i was pretty pleased and excited.
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
slapped together a prototype for something i been thinking about. it needs a lot of work before it's presentable, but finishing up a 3" plank real nice and putting five of these on there should make a pretty good coat rack
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
So, I've come to realize that I need to restart the project. Turns out the jump rings I made were either too small or the gauge was too low, because the patch I made so far is not as flexible as it should be.
Are those green ones leaves in some sort of clear housing?
Likely resin. It's a common technique for jewelry stuffs - take flat things and add a clear resin on top. Those look like they might've been covered in some green sparkly thing as well, beforehand.
SPEAKING of jewelry resin though (I've never done it myself, but there are some awesome-looking things that can come out of it) check these out!
today i made Progress on a project i been working at off and on for a couple months
got us here a propane forge. i built the burner out of $20 or so worth of plumbing parts, the body is a paint can i lined with a mix of perlite and sodium silicate
i may have underestimated how much heat the burner can produce, because the refractory which is okay up to about 2000f starts melting almost immediately when i fire it up
so when i ripped back to that one lifeline, i disregarded an increase row, thinking, "Oh, I have enough stitches for this particular chart, that should be plenty, and it'll have a bit of a crescent shape on the wings."
so this is less a half-pi shawl, and more a weird curvy quadrangle.
kinda okay with it since --while shallow-- it does give a little shoulder shaping, and we'll see how it blocks out, anyway. even though the beads ate up the extra stretchiness of the bindoff. :rolls: but i also, sigh, have yarn left, so i'm considering knitting on a border to use it up. always an experiment!
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
save the leftovers and make a memory blanket square? that's what I'm planning on doing with my leftover 'good' wools.
Just cast on another Milo for Ellie. This one is in a variegated Green and will be the base for her Kiwifruit costume for halloween. I just need to figure out how to put the brown furry bits around the collar and the hem, once I get to that point.
It's amazing how much faster this is knitting up now that it's my 4th time with this pattern.
If anybody has any Littles that you're wanting to knit things for, I can highly highly recommend Milo. It's an easy knit and if you have any talent with charts (I don't just yet...) it's basically a blank canvas for your creativity. It's the first pattern that I've purchased off Ravelry, and worth every single cent.
i made a cape.
something clearly went more wrong than i thought. maybe the bindoff is too tight coupled with not doubling the stitches on that increase row. 'cause -- while i suck at blocking -- this was the most symmetrical effect i could get; nothing approaching a half-pi. it's a wool/mohair/acrylic, but i was wary of getting too aggressive with it. also i need more pins; maybe not t-pins, because you might notice... in the upper left quadrant, sticking out from the piece, that fucker is thoroughly twisted into the edge and will likely need snips to remove.
anyway, i guess i will let this dry and shove into a bag until i decide its fate.
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
CRAFT THREAD
I recently went through all the pre-purchase planning on a rad little project I can't wait to make. As I was randomly scrolling through the internet a couple weeks ago I saw this photo
and after some amazon hunting and conceptual reverse engineering I figured out how to put it together and wire it up and made an amazon wishlist of everything I'd need to make it happen. I'm going to start with a large naked edison lamp on top there instead of a little lamp shade and I went for some nice brass fittings and lamp holders instead of plastic.
Now I just have to find a spare 60 bucks to get everything and I can make it! I'm so excited to put this funky little thing together
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
@pooka that looks cool! Although I see where it's not the shape you wanted.
Have you considered getting blocking wires? Some of the designers down here swear by them for shawls. I can get you some recommendations if you're keen?
I've got two WIPs. Little miss's Milo and a shawl for myself. I'm about 70% through the shawl. But it's a lot more complicated than the Milo, so can only be worked while the baby is sleeping.
Then the wool I just bought for Christmas presents should be here soon, and i need to settle on two shawl patterns to use. I bought a solid and a matching variegated for each shawl. Just need to find a pattern where doing stripes won't look dumb. Thinking a Serenity (free on ravelry), a Tokerau (also free), or an Aisling (purchasable in ravelry, bit not sure I have enough yardage for it.). Such tough choices.
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited September 2016
so, I've come to the decision that I need to purchase a time saving device for making jump rings. Not just for the chainmail glove project (thought that was a significant factor) but also because I need jump rings for basically everything, anyway.
my decision came down to two set-ups:
The Ringinator
both have their direct advantages and disadvantages for me. The ringinator can do huge bulk sessions, but can't go smaller than 3.5mm outer diameter. The Pepe ring maker can only do 3" lengths, but can go smaller than 3.5mm outer diameter and while it presupposes ownership of a tool I don't have yet, even with the cost of that tool the price tag for the Pepe set is still less after shipping than the other one, before shipping.
Add in the fact the ringinator would be shipping from the States, and we have a clear winner (Pepe Tools (I'm in Canada)).
I just need to get the financials in order, and I should be ready to get it within the month
Posts
I'm still working on pattern 1 of my yarn club. Her name is Lisette.
I'm up to the start of the 4th repeat of the pattern. it's complicated looking lae, but there's a rhythm. I've learned lace techniqes, increase techniques, lifelines, and a piot edging from this project.
super excited!
I can't wait till she's all blocked out.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
it's so prettttyyyyy.
handspun/handdyed 100% New Zealand wool. It's soooo nice to work with and I love it and I can't wait until this shawl is done cause I'm gonna wrap myself up in it an then spin around in circles.
I need to stop coughing though.....
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
i cut up a bunch of copper and nickel silver into 1" squares, stacked them up and wired them together, slathered the whole thing in borax dissolved in denatured alcohol, then forge welded them together. it ended up being a cube about an inch on a side which i then spent way too long drawing out into an 1/8"ish sheet, then soaked it in some hydrochloric acid to bring out the pattern. the pix don't show it too well but the cross section has a really nice zebra stripe pattern to it
i didn't do a fantastic job at it. it took too many heats in the forge which burned the piece a little and a charcoal forge isn't the best for this kind of work in the first place, but this was a good first step
hitting hot metal with hammers
I'm working on a little cardigan for October's trips to the states, and it's ust stockinette now that the arms are done and it could be boring, but hang on, there's a gradient! i can't wait for the next colour change!
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
what we have here is a 4.5" leg vise. it weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 65 or 70 lbs, hella beefy. it was made probably sometime in the mid or late 1800s
i can't wait to put together a stand for this thing
hitting hot metal with hammers
So far I've only got the one (hot chocolate tin + paper I already owned). But I've got big plans for this olive oil bottle once I'm done with it.
i literally started this shawl almost 6 years ago, but also dropped a bunch of lace off the needles not long thereafter, so it hibernated due to my heartbreak and ignorance. (first shawl, first chart.... what's a lifeline?)
i frogged it Friday and cast on Saturday to try a variation out. not sure how i feel about the pooling, but i'm going to stick with the stockinette for a bit and Frankenstein this thing together. i am thinking to integrate the fern lace in Chart A in a wedge towards the bottom. hmm, kinda wishing i'd kfb on the spine instead of the YOs... not frogging for that, nope! ... well... maybe to the lifeline. :shifty:
edit: maybe i can drop down to the lifeline and twist the yarnovers?... and would i need to increase by a couple more stitches so it doesn't pull in, hmm..
nope, the way i increased would have required a lot of shifting stitches to ladder down, so i just ripped back. wool is so lovely for stitches staying put.
hitting hot metal with hammers
Two things come to mind, at this stage:
1) this is going to be tedious
2) I need more wire
Does anyone know of a material I could paint onto the fingertips of the finished glove, to improve the grip?
If you're set on chainmail, maybe try this stuff to improve the grip:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-Black-Coating/dp/B000VS2HMK
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
That looks like the perfect thing, thank you!
hitting hot metal with hammers
If I can be forgiven for showing off, this is my favorite creation (the bias should be obvious):
Magnets are embedded on the right hand side, and a strip of thin, flat metal is hidden under the left hand side. The edges are a little more yellow than I had intended--the "gilding" was a success at distances great than 10 feet, but not when you look close.
My wife does papercraft, and that's who I picked this interest up from. She handmade our wedding invitations, which makes my contribution feel paltry by comparison.
hitting hot metal with hammers
Next step will be painting them white so they look nice (as it's going to be on our deck) and affixing some screening. That'll probably have to be next weekend... the cutting, sanding and screwing took a bit longer than I'd anticipated. Thank you for your help, @a duck!
The idea is that the back section will be unscreened and butted up against the house, where the cats will be able to enter and exit through one of the deck windows. Going to make 2 carpeted 'levels' so they can get some climbing in.
My goal is for it to be collapsible for the winter. It's made out of 2X2s, so it's relatively light, and each panel will be able to come apart from the others for storage.
These cats had better appreciate it!
An easy fix for that is to use a clear adhesive and lightly brush it on between pages before using a rotary tool, just make sure to let it cure for a full twenty four hours. Clear two-part epoxy with a throw-away brush won't even break ten bucks at a home improvement store; for the final sections that need to be open like the above photo, a piece of wax paper or butcher's paper can be folded over in between the 'open' pieces and the excess epoxy can be trimmed with an exacto blade. The downside to this method is that the spine of the pages will have to be separate from the spine of the book because the pages basically become an inflexible brick.
To keep the pages flexible and still get a clean edge would require a blank of hard plastic or scrap wood that's cut to the specific measurements desired. You'd have to lay the blank on top of the pages, clamp them down from every angle, and then cut with the rotary tool. In this instance, a rotary tool or even a wood router might do the trick quite nicely, but it ultimately depends on how secure the pages are underneath the blank so as not to shear the pages.
I do what you suggest for the adhesive already, but only around the sides. A thin brushing of Mod-Podge (using wax paper so the free pages and covers stay unglued) along the edge gives a pretty strong seal, while not drenching the pages themselves too badly. I haven't experimented brushing any sort of adhesive on the pages for a few reasons: 1) the possibility of warping the pages too badly, and 2) the added thickness by using that much glue (even a thin coat between pages adds up). From there, I will use a very thin drill bit to mark the corners (or center, in the case of the circular holes in the ring-book, above) of the shape, using clamps to keep the pages still. From there, I'll use a metal straightedge to get the cuts about a 1/4" deep, and free hand it from there.
I'm going to experiment on a throw-away to see whether my concerns about "too much" adhesive are valid. In terms of a next project, I have a copy of "The Book of Virtues" by William Bennett, which will be storing a specially curated Cards Against Humanity set.
i like you
hitting hot metal with hammers
I got to oregano and if I have to draw one more tiny goddam leaf I'm going to go bonkers
Maybe I'll take a break and do some peppers or citrus
hmm hmm hmmmm
probably another 10-20 rows of stockinette and non-increasing mesh, and then on to the border. i wanted smaller eyelets but couldn't settle on anything, and i'm still in debate about the whole kit, anyway, so i guess i'm just committed to this flaming to its conclusion.
(i don't think it looks bad, i just don't love it. but i also need to practice faith in myself and in improvising, and just see something through for a bit.) note the lifeline at the start of the mesh, tho.
oh! something about knitting backwards clicked in my head the other day, so i am happily doing that to give my wrists a break from purling. i was pretty pleased and excited.
I just finished Ellie's little cardi
pattern is Unadorned. Wool is a custom gradient blend from a local indie dyer. It has sparkles in it!
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
hitting hot metal with hammers
Did you make those or are they something you want to make?
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
oh definitely not mine, sorry - I'll grab a link to the site for you. But yeah it would be fun.
https://artpeople.net/discarded-copper-wire-twisted-trees-beautifully-frame-dazzling-stone-pendants/
Likely resin. It's a common technique for jewelry stuffs - take flat things and add a clear resin on top. Those look like they might've been covered in some green sparkly thing as well, beforehand.
SPEAKING of jewelry resin though (I've never done it myself, but there are some awesome-looking things that can come out of it) check these out!
Real Flowers + Resin Bangle
https://www.etsy.com/listing/472224101/forget-me-not-flower-resin-stacking
Wood + Pink Resin Pendant
https://www.etsy.com/listing/472222457/pink-resin-and-wood-pendant-wood-resin
got us here a propane forge. i built the burner out of $20 or so worth of plumbing parts, the body is a paint can i lined with a mix of perlite and sodium silicate
i may have underestimated how much heat the burner can produce, because the refractory which is okay up to about 2000f starts melting almost immediately when i fire it up
it also is on the scale of loudness somewhere in between a braying elephant and a space shuttle launch
hitting hot metal with hammers
so this is less a half-pi shawl, and more a weird curvy quadrangle.
kinda okay with it since --while shallow-- it does give a little shoulder shaping, and we'll see how it blocks out, anyway. even though the beads ate up the extra stretchiness of the bindoff. :rolls: but i also, sigh, have yarn left, so i'm considering knitting on a border to use it up. always an experiment!
Just cast on another Milo for Ellie. This one is in a variegated Green and will be the base for her Kiwifruit costume for halloween. I just need to figure out how to put the brown furry bits around the collar and the hem, once I get to that point.
It's amazing how much faster this is knitting up now that it's my 4th time with this pattern.
If anybody has any Littles that you're wanting to knit things for, I can highly highly recommend Milo. It's an easy knit and if you have any talent with charts (I don't just yet...) it's basically a blank canvas for your creativity. It's the first pattern that I've purchased off Ravelry, and worth every single cent.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
something clearly went more wrong than i thought. maybe the bindoff is too tight coupled with not doubling the stitches on that increase row. 'cause -- while i suck at blocking -- this was the most symmetrical effect i could get; nothing approaching a half-pi. it's a wool/mohair/acrylic, but i was wary of getting too aggressive with it. also i need more pins; maybe not t-pins, because you might notice... in the upper left quadrant, sticking out from the piece, that fucker is thoroughly twisted into the edge and will likely need snips to remove.
anyway, i guess i will let this dry and shove into a bag until i decide its fate.
I recently went through all the pre-purchase planning on a rad little project I can't wait to make. As I was randomly scrolling through the internet a couple weeks ago I saw this photo
and after some amazon hunting and conceptual reverse engineering I figured out how to put it together and wire it up and made an amazon wishlist of everything I'd need to make it happen. I'm going to start with a large naked edison lamp on top there instead of a little lamp shade and I went for some nice brass fittings and lamp holders instead of plastic.
Now I just have to find a spare 60 bucks to get everything and I can make it! I'm so excited to put this funky little thing together
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
Have you considered getting blocking wires? Some of the designers down here swear by them for shawls. I can get you some recommendations if you're keen?
I've got two WIPs. Little miss's Milo and a shawl for myself. I'm about 70% through the shawl. But it's a lot more complicated than the Milo, so can only be worked while the baby is sleeping.
Then the wool I just bought for Christmas presents should be here soon, and i need to settle on two shawl patterns to use. I bought a solid and a matching variegated for each shawl. Just need to find a pattern where doing stripes won't look dumb. Thinking a Serenity (free on ravelry), a Tokerau (also free), or an Aisling (purchasable in ravelry, bit not sure I have enough yardage for it.). Such tough choices.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
my decision came down to two set-ups:
The Ringinator
VS
Pepe Tools Jump Ring maker
both have their direct advantages and disadvantages for me. The ringinator can do huge bulk sessions, but can't go smaller than 3.5mm outer diameter. The Pepe ring maker can only do 3" lengths, but can go smaller than 3.5mm outer diameter and while it presupposes ownership of a tool I don't have yet, even with the cost of that tool the price tag for the Pepe set is still less after shipping than the other one, before shipping.
Add in the fact the ringinator would be shipping from the States, and we have a clear winner (Pepe Tools (I'm in Canada)).
I just need to get the financials in order, and I should be ready to get it within the month