Our new Indie Games subforum is now open for business in G&T. Go and check it out, you might land a code for a free game. If you're developing an indie game and want to post about it, follow these directions. If you don't, he'll break your legs! Hahaha! Seriously though.
Our rules have been updated and given their own forum. Go and look at them! They are nice, and there may be new ones that you didn't know about! Hooray for rules! Hooray for The System! Hooray for Conforming!

How do I fix the veneer on this built-in cabinet?

BlazeFireBlazeFire Registered User regular
Does anyone have suggestions on how to repair the veneer on this built in cabinet that has come off? I know the general idea is sand the exposed wood lightly then use some glue. My trouble comes in that it is difficult to clamp the veneer while the glue cures. In a perfect world, I'd use a 3-way clamp (like this: https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/images/items/zoom/16RJ48_AS01.JPG), however the exposed wood is 2-1/2" wide and I have not found any of these clamps that are wider than that.

Anyone with some ideas? The best I've come up with is a pretty hokey home-made clamping solution.

Here are a couple photos to help clarify what I'm talking about.
g6yucasp36e2.jpg
uqdmr37lbnud.jpg

Posts

  • FiggyFiggy Registered User regular
    edited March 19
    Why don't you just replace that piece of wood?

    Edit: also, our hallways are oddly similar. Same paint, same white cubby thingy, same baby gate.

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment · Website : www.nathanswyers.com
  • BlazeFireBlazeFire Registered User regular
    Figgy wrote: »
    Why don't you just replace that piece of wood?

    Edit: also, our hallways are oddly similar. Same paint, same white cubby thingy, same baby gate.

    I'm a bit hesitant to pull that piece of wood off I guess. Not sure why. Never really thought of it.

  • mtsmts Registered User regular
    edited March 20
    or throw some moulding around the whole thing

    mts on
    camo_sig.png
    SatanIsMyMotor
  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    Hard to tell exactly from pictures, but it looks like it's just basically a piece of moulding stuck on with some brads, so it should be pretty easy to pry it off.

    Then just glue new veneer onto it while it's off or put a brand new one in place.

    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    That built-in phone nook is great.

    For the veneer, could you just prop another board against it while it dries? Honestly some of that pro adhesive dries quick enough you could hold it on.

    Nobeard wrote: »
    You can even mount some non-animals...

    Steam:MichaelLC
  • EncEnc A Fool with Compassion The Land of Flowers (and Dragons)Registered User regular
    Might be better to just sand and paint the whole thing, long term IMO. You already have two different shades of white on there, odds are good you will have a slightly different third with a new veneer.

    Guns make you stupid. Better to fight your wars with duct tape. Duct tape makes you smart.

    I make Encounter Maps for Pathfinder and D&D! Check them out here: https://falleron.com/
  • zepherinzepherin Registered User regular
    Enc wrote: »
    Might be better to just sand and paint the whole thing, long term IMO. You already have two different shades of white on there, odds are good you will have a slightly different third with a new veneer.
    Unfortunately he would need to strip the Veneer off all of it for a consistent look, which is time consuming.

    The quick and dirty fix use wood putty to match the level, paint it white to get the color close.

    I don't like gluing veneer, it often looks like total crap, because it's not really designed for that.

    Enc
  • EncEnc A Fool with Compassion The Land of Flowers (and Dragons)Registered User regular
    The strip, sand, and paint is a more permanent solution, probably will look better in the long run. You'd be looking at 6-8 hours of work to do it right, but you won't run into this problem again in the future. (and you can get it to match your baseboards).

    Guns make you stupid. Better to fight your wars with duct tape. Duct tape makes you smart.

    I make Encounter Maps for Pathfinder and D&D! Check them out here: https://falleron.com/
  • mtsmts Registered User regular
    if the veneer is thin all around, you could just tack in the moulding and you would barely have a difference.

    that is going to be way easier since you can go right through the veneer left on

    camo_sig.png
  • Liquid HellzLiquid Hellz Registered User regular
    They sell that basic white veneer which has a glue on back at the major stores (home depot, lowes, etc.) Comes in a long strip and you can either iron it on or get it a bit wet and slap it on.

    What I do for a living:
    Home Inspection and Wind Mitigation
    http://www.FairWindInspections.com/
  • djmitchelladjmitchella Registered User regular
    I'm not sure how tightly it needs to be clamped in place to stick, but you could probably hold it there fairly snugly just by running some strips of masking tape across the front, from one side to the other, and that might be enough to let the glue dry?

  • FiggyFiggy Registered User regular
    mts wrote: »
    if the veneer is thin all around, you could just tack in the moulding and you would barely have a difference.

    that is going to be way easier since you can go right through the veneer left on

    Is that not particle board under the veneer? That would look awful.

    If it were me, I'd take it all off and just do new molding. $20 at most for a couple lengths of baseboard or door/window trim. Nice beginner home reno project and it'll look nicer!

    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment · Website : www.nathanswyers.com
  • mtsmts Registered User regular
    Figgy wrote: »
    mts wrote: »
    if the veneer is thin all around, you could just tack in the moulding and you would barely have a difference.

    that is going to be way easier since you can go right through the veneer left on

    Is that not particle board under the veneer? That would look awful.

    If it were me, I'd take it all off and just do new molding. $20 at most for a couple lengths of baseboard or door/window trim. Nice beginner home reno project and it'll look nicer!

    over everything not just the missing piece

    camo_sig.png
  • FiggyFiggy Registered User regular
    mts wrote: »
    Figgy wrote: »
    mts wrote: »
    if the veneer is thin all around, you could just tack in the moulding and you would barely have a difference.

    that is going to be way easier since you can go right through the veneer left on

    Is that not particle board under the veneer? That would look awful.

    If it were me, I'd take it all off and just do new molding. $20 at most for a couple lengths of baseboard or door/window trim. Nice beginner home reno project and it'll look nicer!

    over everything not just the missing piece

    Sorry I quoted the wrong person! I was trying to reply to the messages suggesting he sand and paint it. You don't sand particle board much less paint it for a finished look.

    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment · Website : www.nathanswyers.com
Sign In or Register to comment.