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[3D Printing] A toy to build toys...New to the hobby....
My cheap, and no longer produced, printer I just got requires fiddling to get setup but after that has been largely ok. Like was previously mentioned if you went with a pricey one they are better about it. I trammed my bed about 3 times trying trial prints in between and got it dialed in by the third time. Took about 5 hours of printing and maybe 30 minutes of fiddling. I have successfully printed a narwhal and 4 bed risers for my buddy. Nothing too detailed like a mini but given the quality of the prints I suspect that they will be good enough for my taste. There is also the issue of building it. The entire contraption needs to be as square as possible so building it takes some time as you build, measure, disassemble, adjust, build, etc.
My first, second, and third print
The over extrusion on the sides was caused by the belt for the x axis being too loose. I tightened it up and this is the first of the risers.
Another thing is that several of the parts wear out and there is nothing you can really do about it except keep replacements on hand.
One thing to consider that doesn't get mentioned a lot, but which made a big difference to me, is how noisy a particular printer is. The monoprice mini makes a really annoying sort of whirr while it's running because of the motors / pulleys / (edit because I can't spell today)extruder / something. And while the printer was in the basement, the noise did a good enough job of resonating through air vents, and was erratic enough, that it was distracting in bedrooms upstairs while trying to get to sleep. (or distracting while trying to watch TV / play games in the basement, etc)
Upgrading to a prusa mk3 came with a bunch of other improvements, but the reduction in background noise was one of the most significant ones for actually feeling able to use the printer on a regular basis.
(obviously ymmv depending on where you put it / how your living spaces work / if you even want to leave it running overnight)
One thing to consider that doesn't get mentioned a lot, but which made a big difference to me, is how noisy a particular printer is. The monoprice mini makes a really annoying sort of whirr while it's running because of the motors / pulleys / extrider / something. And while the printer was in the basement, the noise did a good enough job of resonating through air vents, and was erratic enough, that it was distracting in bedrooms upstairs while trying to get to sleep. (or distracting while trying to watch TV / play games in the basement, etc)
Upgrading to a prusa mk3 came with a bunch of other improvements, but the reduction in background noise was one of the most significant ones for actually feeling able to use the printer on a regular basis.
(obviously ymmv depending on where you put it / how your living spaces work / if you even want to leave it running overnight)
Oh yeah my Voxelab fans are noisy as hell. Like box fan on medium noisy. You can't hear it from other rooms but you definitely can't escape it when in the same room.
Ooh yeah, noise is a thing. I am not one of those people who thinks "yay white noise" when a noisy fan is going. And resin printers, while seemingly quieter, are shall we say "intriguingly stinky and full of interesting chemical compounds" which I don't much feel like dealing with.
So, quick question: I’ve been experiencing some extruded skipping when I try to print at 0.2 mm layers @ 60 mm/s on my Ender 3. I’ve got a direct drive conversion kit but I haven’t installed it yet so it’s still using the Bowden tube setup. I’ve tried turning up the temperature on the hot end and that seems to help but only for a few minutes before it starts skipping again. It doesn’t skip on infill, only on top/bottom layers and perimeters. I’ve even reduced the retraction speed and amount (3 mm/40 mm/s) and that helped, but still didn’t fix it. I was wondering if any of you good folks had the same issue with an Ender 3 and how you fixed it if you did?
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Have you tried swapping filament, @Soggybiscuit ? I'll have some filament (usually been open for awhile) where it'll skip a little bit when I first start printing with it, but after it's gone a couple of meters in it smooths out. That'll at least tell you if it's a filament or printer issue.
Nozzle clog, maybe?
Also, how did you set up your bowden tube? I've got a "captured" piece of Capricorn tubing that I sandwich in between the nozzle and the entry valve on the printhead, with a bit of a printed spacer in there to keep it tight, and then I've got a more-or-less permanent piece of standard PTFE tube between the extruder and the printhead. Every now and then, I'll need to clean out the hot section and replace the two-ish inches of Capricorn tubing as the seal between the Capricorn tube and the nozzle is never perfect, so it builds up a little bit there over time and can cause reductions in flow.
Have you tried swapping filament, Soggybiscuit ? I'll have some filament (usually been open for awhile) where it'll skip a little bit when I first start printing with it, but after it's gone a couple of meters in it smooths out. That'll at least tell you if it's a filament or printer issue.
Nozzle clog, maybe?
Also, how did you set up your bowden tube? I've got a "captured" piece of Capricorn tubing that I sandwich in between the nozzle and the entry valve on the printhead, with a bit of a printed spacer in there to keep it tight, and then I've got a more-or-less permanent piece of standard PTFE tube between the extruder and the printhead. Every now and then, I'll need to clean out the hot section and replace the two-ish inches of Capricorn tubing as the seal between the Capricorn tube and the nozzle is never perfect, so it builds up a little bit there over time and can cause reductions in flow.
Thanks, Elvenshae!
I swapped filament a few times and everything but the Inland Twinkle Rainbow Silk PLA (I got it to make toys for my daughter! I swear!) has skipped at some point, both PLA and PLA+. The Inland stuff didn't skip or clog, but I printed it slower for a small high detail model when I was testing it. I did need a trim of the Bowden Tube when I was assembling and testing the printer because the end going to the hotend was a little chewed up. Might need to check that again, at least until I can go to the direct drive setup. I should also probably retighten the nozzle as well.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Tried my first time big long print and of course it fucked up. Tried to print a platinum trophy from the PS5 and it got all the way to the ball in the middle and after about 30 layers the ball broke loose from the supports. I am not really sure why but I guess it doesn't matter, the stl also included all the individual pieces so I am printing it separately now and will assemble it afterwards. Haven't tried printing a sphere before but cura didn't build supports for it so I guess it is large enough that the angle is not too steep.
Many times the reason a resin part breaks loose is the suction created by uncured resin at the FEP during bed lift. If you set the lift a little slower it will result in a slightly longer print, but lowers the risk of plasticised failure.
Light off delay can also help here, since it gives the new layer a bit longer to cure before sticking it back down.
Many times the reason a resin part breaks loose is the suction created by uncured resin at the FEP during bed lift. If you set the lift a little slower it will result in a slightly longer print, but lowers the risk of plasticised failure.
Light off delay can also help here, since it gives the new layer a bit longer to cure before sticking it back down.
I am using an FDM printer, do those have FEP? I haven't seen that term before. I think it broke because the anchor points to the supports were not that strong. I tried to speed it up and should have just gone slower. It is working great now though.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
+1
IanatorA predator cannot differentiatebetween prey and accompliceRegistered Userregular
Many times the reason a resin part breaks loose is the suction created by uncured resin at the FEP during bed lift. If you set the lift a little slower it will result in a slightly longer print, but lowers the risk of plasticised failure.
Light off delay can also help here, since it gives the new layer a bit longer to cure before sticking it back down.
I am using an FDM printer, do those have FEP? I haven't seen that term before. I think it broke because the anchor points to the supports were not that strong. I tried to speed it up and should have just gone slower. It is working great now though.
No, if you're using a filament printer then bed lift suction isn't going to be a thing in the same way. FEP is the plastic film at the bottom of a resin printer's pool.
Ianator on
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
Fuck. I tried to print the platinum trophy in pieces all at once and every single spoke broke free one after the other over the course of the 27 hour print and I wasn't at home to watch it so the top of the ball fucked up again. Fuck it. Printing one part at a time this time lol. Good thing this pla stuff is so damn cheap!
Where do you lot buy parts from? Amazon has the problem of never knowing what you are actually getting, but it seems to be the only place I can find.
I use Amazon for pretty much everything except for bulk PLA purchases. There's a Micro Center 90 minutes away and I stop in when I'm in the area but their prices skew high for my taste unless I happen to hit a sale.
I use Amazon for pretty much everything except for bulk PLA purchases. There's a Micro Center 90 minutes away and I stop in when I'm in the area but their prices skew high for my taste unless I happen to hit a sale.
That's funny because I considered pla to be the only thing safe to purchase from Amazon. Where do you get your's from?
Either Copier2go or Fremover depending who has a better deal on a 10 1k pack. My latest order was from Fremover, 12 rolls for about 90 dollars as they were running a special if you opted for random colors and bagged filament, no boxes; I don't think that's an ongoing deal though so ymmv
Neither are top quality but they're good enough. If there's something specific I want to look really good without any finishing work I'll spring for a roll of more premium stuff but 90% of my prints are on these and it's been fine for me.
Hmm I have been using Hatchbox at the recommendation of a friend who is big into the hobby and it has worked great. Every failure, and there have been several, were pretty clearly my fault. Hatchbox is a bit pricey though at 25 a roll for basic colors. Taking a look at the Fremover I don't need that much yet. Once I get more comfortable with the printer I might buy in bulk but for now one spool at a time is enough.
Have you tried swapping filament, @Soggybiscuit ? I'll have some filament (usually been open for awhile) where it'll skip a little bit when I first start printing with it, but after it's gone a couple of meters in it smooths out. That'll at least tell you if it's a filament or printer issue.
Nozzle clog, maybe?
Also, how did you set up your bowden tube? I've got a "captured" piece of Capricorn tubing that I sandwich in between the nozzle and the entry valve on the printhead, with a bit of a printed spacer in there to keep it tight, and then I've got a more-or-less permanent piece of standard PTFE tube between the extruder and the printhead. Every now and then, I'll need to clean out the hot section and replace the two-ish inches of Capricorn tubing as the seal between the Capricorn tube and the nozzle is never perfect, so it builds up a little bit there over time and can cause reductions in flow.
Finally installed my Micro Swiss hot end, and when i disassembled the original the Bowden tube was jammed full of plastic. I’m guessing heat was creeping up into the tube, enough to melt some plastic it not all and the thing would just jam after a bit.
Should be fixed now though
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Sigh, been having so many issues with my Ender 3 Pro. Its modded out to hell, Direct drive extruder, PEI bed, CR touch bed leveler, and every time I use it I have weird issues that take me days to fix. This week its weird first layer problems.
So after hearing and seeing a ton of positive review I said fuck it, today I purchased a Bambu P1P. It was $100 off for their 1 year anniversary and from everything I've seen and read its a printer that just works. Not as customizable, not as open source, but works out of the box, plus now I have two and half years of experience in tinkering and adjusting things with printers so I feel like that plenty for me.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I'll be curious to hear how the Bambu works out. I was getting pretty regular Facebook ads for it for a bit, and the "just works" pitch almost got me to bite.
The stock Creality firmware ain’t the sharpest tool in the shed, so to speak. The Y offset they built in the firmware for the CR Touch I got was completely wrong and the damn thing did not work at all. If you still want to tinker, try out Klipper, it works pretty well and solved some of the issues I’ve been having.
I’m currently trying to solve a Z-axis issue on mine so I can print dimensionally accurate parts to build a Voron 0.2. I’m pretty sure my lead screw either needs some grease or my Z motor needs a new spacer not made out of cardboard or both to fix my issues.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
I was the same with my Ender. Switching to something where "it just works" is so wonderful. Sure it's valuable to learn what you have to learn to get results from an Ender but it just gets tiresome, and the wasted PLA really adds up over time.
I had custom Marlin firmware on my Ender and just so many weird things pop up constantly. Going to try to sell it for around the new sticker price since it has about $200 in upgrades on it
My 11 year old son wanted to buy a 3d printer. So we went half and half on a anycubic vyper 3 and have already printed some figures.
I still have questions, like fla or abs?
And should I build an enclosure for the printer or is there a cheap readymade option?
My 11 year old son wanted to buy a 3d printer. So we went half and half on a anycubic vyper 3 and have already printed some figures.
I still have questions, like fla or abs?
And should I build an enclosure for the printer or is there a cheap readymade option?
PLA unless you need the temperature resistance of ABS. It doesn’t require an enclosure or produce any strong fumes. It also has an enormous amount of color choices available. And it’s relatively cheap.
I just ordered one of these: Creality Ender 3D Printer Series Enclosure Fireproof and Dustproof Tent Constant Temperature Protective Cover Room for Creality Ender 3V2/Ender 3S1/Ender 3Pro/Ender 3 3D Printer https://a.co/d/eyRbKFy
No idea how good it is though. I should get to use it next week.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
My 11 year old son wanted to buy a 3d printer. So we went half and half on a anycubic vyper 3 and have already printed some figures.
I still have questions, like fla or abs?
And should I build an enclosure for the printer or is there a cheap readymade option?
PLA unless you need the temperature resistance of ABS. It doesn’t require an enclosure or produce any strong fumes. It also has an enormous amount of color choices available. And it’s relatively cheap.
I just ordered one of these: Creality Ender 3D Printer Series Enclosure Fireproof and Dustproof Tent Constant Temperature Protective Cover Room for Creality Ender 3V2/Ender 3S1/Ender 3Pro/Ender 3 3D Printer https://a.co/d/eyRbKFy
No idea how good it is though. I should get to use it next week.
ABS definitely is where you want an enclosure and ducting and stuff -- I tried printing something out of ABS to see how it went, and after maybe three minutes had to turn the whole thing off and open a bunch of windows and set up a fan to blow air through, the fumes were very obviously not good for me. (also ABS needs a hotter extruder and, if I remember correctly, better protection from drafts / more even temperature. So, again, an enclosure).
The classic cheap DIY setup is an Ikea LACK table to act as the frame, and then get some cheap plastic to make the walls, as long as your printer will fit under there.
My 11 year old son wanted to buy a 3d printer. So we went half and half on a anycubic vyper 3 and have already printed some figures.
I still have questions, like fla or abs?
And should I build an enclosure for the printer or is there a cheap readymade option?
PLA unless you need the temperature resistance of ABS. It doesn’t require an enclosure or produce any strong fumes. It also has an enormous amount of color choices available. And it’s relatively cheap.
I just ordered one of these: Creality Ender 3D Printer Series Enclosure Fireproof and Dustproof Tent Constant Temperature Protective Cover Room for Creality Ender 3V2/Ender 3S1/Ender 3Pro/Ender 3 3D Printer https://a.co/d/eyRbKFy
No idea how good it is though. I should get to use it next week.
ABS definitely is where you want an enclosure and ducting and stuff -- I tried printing something out of ABS to see how it went, and after maybe three minutes had to turn the whole thing off and open a bunch of windows and set up a fan to blow air through, the fumes were very obviously not good for me. (also ABS needs a hotter extruder and, if I remember correctly, better protection from drafts / more even temperature. So, again, an enclosure).
The classic cheap DIY setup is an Ikea LACK table to act as the frame, and then get some cheap plastic to make the walls, as long as your printer will fit under there.
Yeah, I’ve been told the smell is pungent and acrid.
I’m going to try printing some ASA stuff next week, which is supposedly easier to print and much less smelly. I’m going to put the printer on the floor in the bathroom in that enclosure I linked and turn the fan on and hope for the best.
After I print a TIE Fighter though.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
So I had An Idea and decided that I want to fully design and build a display turntable for miniatures so I can get nice 360 shots of miniatures for Social Media Clout or whatever.
This will also be a great learning experience, so I'm overengineering the crap out of it. I just ordered threaded inserts.
Agreed on the plastic type. If youre printing prop stuff or models and other things that arent going in your car or outside in the sun, PLA is the go to, its super easy to print, you dont need an enclosure, it doesnt smell much, and it comes in a ridiculous amount of colours. I can detect sort of a sweet plant smell while printing, but its not unpleasant to me.
If you need some temperature resistance, like if you are transporting things routinely, or if you want something that can live on the dash of your car and you dont live in arizona or somewhere equally life threatening, PETG is not that much harder to print. Basically PLA settings but a little hotter, and it should be dried (sunlu makes a great filament drier that you can print directly from.) PETG comes in a lot of colours, and its strength is super shiny clear stuff, and transparent colours. It doesnt really come in matte finishes though, and it likes to be stringy. Drying helps that. It has no smell that I can detect while printing.
ABS is really not necessary unless you need the temperature resistance. It doesn't come in as many colours, its a lot harder to print, since it likes to warp. It will literally tear a print in half from the warping forces, unless you have an enclosure. It also stinks to print, and isnt good to breathe long term.
Those are the 3 conventional filaments. There are others, like nylon and polycarbonate, and even more exotic stuff, but the first 3 are the bread and butter.
Slowly learning some more Fusion 360. Continuing work on the turntable. Found models of all the components I'll be using, so I can pull those into Fusion and model with them as a reference.
Remains to be seen if the plate can have just the motor shaft as attachment point and still be stable/not wobbly, but hey, iterating design.
Took some finagling to figure out how to subtract the motor shape from the motor mount, but I figured that out, and also found models for threaded inserts. This shit looks fancy.
And some prototype prints for test-fitting. I'll use that plate for the final design, so I added the magnets too.
There was a heavy thud on my doormat the other day as my threaded inserts arrived. I printed a test piece to figure out the correct size for the holes:
Turns out it's pretty tricky to get them in straight though.
There was a heavy thud on my doormat the other day as my threaded inserts arrived. I printed a test piece to figure out the correct size for the holes:
Turns out it's pretty tricky to get them in straight though.
Yeah, this was with an el-cheapo soldering iron with a really pointy tip, so definitely not enough control. I actually bought the inserts from CNC Kitchen, I'm looking for some decent options that are compatible with their inserts. First one I found locally was $250, and I don't expect to use it that much.
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
If you’re willing to shell out for a bit of dedicated equipment, Naomi Wu’s heat-set press has seen good reviews. Probably not worth it for just a few inserts in a one-off build though.
Posts
My first, second, and third print
The over extrusion on the sides was caused by the belt for the x axis being too loose. I tightened it up and this is the first of the risers.
Another thing is that several of the parts wear out and there is nothing you can really do about it except keep replacements on hand.
PSN:Furlion
Upgrading to a prusa mk3 came with a bunch of other improvements, but the reduction in background noise was one of the most significant ones for actually feeling able to use the printer on a regular basis.
(obviously ymmv depending on where you put it / how your living spaces work / if you even want to leave it running overnight)
Oh yeah my Voxelab fans are noisy as hell. Like box fan on medium noisy. You can't hear it from other rooms but you definitely can't escape it when in the same room.
PSN:Furlion
Nozzle clog, maybe?
Also, how did you set up your bowden tube? I've got a "captured" piece of Capricorn tubing that I sandwich in between the nozzle and the entry valve on the printhead, with a bit of a printed spacer in there to keep it tight, and then I've got a more-or-less permanent piece of standard PTFE tube between the extruder and the printhead. Every now and then, I'll need to clean out the hot section and replace the two-ish inches of Capricorn tubing as the seal between the Capricorn tube and the nozzle is never perfect, so it builds up a little bit there over time and can cause reductions in flow.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Thanks, Elvenshae!
I swapped filament a few times and everything but the Inland Twinkle Rainbow Silk PLA (I got it to make toys for my daughter! I swear!) has skipped at some point, both PLA and PLA+. The Inland stuff didn't skip or clog, but I printed it slower for a small high detail model when I was testing it. I did need a trim of the Bowden Tube when I was assembling and testing the printer because the end going to the hotend was a little chewed up. Might need to check that again, at least until I can go to the direct drive setup. I should also probably retighten the nozzle as well.
Hell yeah, rainbow stuff!
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
PSN:Furlion
Light off delay can also help here, since it gives the new layer a bit longer to cure before sticking it back down.
I am using an FDM printer, do those have FEP? I haven't seen that term before. I think it broke because the anchor points to the supports were not that strong. I tried to speed it up and should have just gone slower. It is working great now though.
PSN:Furlion
No, if you're using a filament printer then bed lift suction isn't going to be a thing in the same way. FEP is the plastic film at the bottom of a resin printer's pool.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Where do you lot buy parts from? Amazon has the problem of never knowing what you are actually getting, but it seems to be the only place I can find.
PSN:Furlion
That's funny because I considered pla to be the only thing safe to purchase from Amazon. Where do you get your's from?
PSN:Furlion
Neither are top quality but they're good enough. If there's something specific I want to look really good without any finishing work I'll spring for a roll of more premium stuff but 90% of my prints are on these and it's been fine for me.
PSN:Furlion
Finally installed my Micro Swiss hot end, and when i disassembled the original the Bowden tube was jammed full of plastic. I’m guessing heat was creeping up into the tube, enough to melt some plastic it not all and the thing would just jam after a bit.
Should be fixed now though
So after hearing and seeing a ton of positive review I said fuck it, today I purchased a Bambu P1P. It was $100 off for their 1 year anniversary and from everything I've seen and read its a printer that just works. Not as customizable, not as open source, but works out of the box, plus now I have two and half years of experience in tinkering and adjusting things with printers so I feel like that plenty for me.
I got a Prusa Mini Mk2 purely as a "no tinkering!" printer.
I’m currently trying to solve a Z-axis issue on mine so I can print dimensionally accurate parts to build a Voron 0.2. I’m pretty sure my lead screw either needs some grease or my Z motor needs a new spacer not made out of cardboard or both to fix my issues.
I still have questions, like fla or abs?
And should I build an enclosure for the printer or is there a cheap readymade option?
PLA unless you need the temperature resistance of ABS. It doesn’t require an enclosure or produce any strong fumes. It also has an enormous amount of color choices available. And it’s relatively cheap.
I just ordered one of these: Creality Ender 3D Printer Series Enclosure Fireproof and Dustproof Tent Constant Temperature Protective Cover Room for Creality Ender 3V2/Ender 3S1/Ender 3Pro/Ender 3 3D Printer https://a.co/d/eyRbKFy
No idea how good it is though. I should get to use it next week.
Turns out I was a dum-dum and FOR SOME STUPID REASON set an acceleration limit under "Print Settings" in PrusaSlicer. Whoops!
ABS definitely is where you want an enclosure and ducting and stuff -- I tried printing something out of ABS to see how it went, and after maybe three minutes had to turn the whole thing off and open a bunch of windows and set up a fan to blow air through, the fumes were very obviously not good for me. (also ABS needs a hotter extruder and, if I remember correctly, better protection from drafts / more even temperature. So, again, an enclosure).
The classic cheap DIY setup is an Ikea LACK table to act as the frame, and then get some cheap plastic to make the walls, as long as your printer will fit under there.
Yeah, I’ve been told the smell is pungent and acrid.
I’m going to try printing some ASA stuff next week, which is supposedly easier to print and much less smelly. I’m going to put the printer on the floor in the bathroom in that enclosure I linked and turn the fan on and hope for the best.
After I print a TIE Fighter though.
This will also be a great learning experience, so I'm overengineering the crap out of it. I just ordered threaded inserts.
My son printed rocktopus and it had strings...
It dazzles!
If you need some temperature resistance, like if you are transporting things routinely, or if you want something that can live on the dash of your car and you dont live in arizona or somewhere equally life threatening, PETG is not that much harder to print. Basically PLA settings but a little hotter, and it should be dried (sunlu makes a great filament drier that you can print directly from.) PETG comes in a lot of colours, and its strength is super shiny clear stuff, and transparent colours. It doesnt really come in matte finishes though, and it likes to be stringy. Drying helps that. It has no smell that I can detect while printing.
ABS is really not necessary unless you need the temperature resistance. It doesn't come in as many colours, its a lot harder to print, since it likes to warp. It will literally tear a print in half from the warping forces, unless you have an enclosure. It also stinks to print, and isnt good to breathe long term.
Those are the 3 conventional filaments. There are others, like nylon and polycarbonate, and even more exotic stuff, but the first 3 are the bread and butter.
Remains to be seen if the plate can have just the motor shaft as attachment point and still be stable/not wobbly, but hey, iterating design.
Took some finagling to figure out how to subtract the motor shape from the motor mount, but I figured that out, and also found models for threaded inserts. This shit looks fancy.
And some prototype prints for test-fitting. I'll use that plate for the final design, so I added the magnets too.
Turns out it's pretty tricky to get them in straight though.
Do you have an insert tool for a soldering iron? Like these: https://cnckitchen.store/products/einschmelzhilfen-soldering-tips-m2-m2-5-m3-m4-m5-m6-1-4-m8-100-lead-and-cadmium-free
Also, you can always reheat them and straighten the insert.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.