They're both under the "Strength" tab when you're in "Prepare".
For top shell, you'd want to set layers and thickness to 0 to eliminate the top layer all together.
For infill, it's specifically the "Sparse Infill" setting. Same as above, 0% eliminates it all together. I'd also advise never using their default grid infill, FYI. Almost any other one is better, but my preferred ones are Gyroid or Honeycomb, personally.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I have various dumb questions about printing
It is a video where someone made Karlach into a doll https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BJGC8X34Vc
As it is something I want to print those parts and such
Mostly I want to get a printer to fix and build items for my wargaming stuff. I think this ideal is two different printers
So, since you have an AMS, you should try using supports with a very minimal contact distance (the default in Bambu Studio is pretty far away, iirc), but use PETG as the interface layer material if you’re printing in PLA. Or vice versa.
Since PLA and PETG don’t stick to each other, they make a perfect choice for an interface layer. Super easy to remove, and almost zero marks left on the print.
Oh yeah, I had heard about using those two in conjunction with each other but I didn't realize it was because they don't stick to each other. Interesting! I think I have one roll of PETG I could try it with.
I just looked at the price of that thing and for how much you paid for it i absolutely think you should be able to get cleaner prints then that. How exactly i am not sure though. As much as it is a hive of villainy your best bet is going to be going to the Reddit for either that brand of printer or just the 3d printer Reddit in general. I will say though that i have Voxelab Aquila that was only 200 when it was new 4 years ago and i can get better overhangs than that on test models. Actual prints can get a bit hairy sometimes but my printer would definitely have done a better job on that test model so something must be off somewhere. Afraid i am too much of a novice myself to offer much support other than running more test models and changing one variable at a time. Maybe slower speed and acceleration? Maybe fiddle with the temp a bit more because it looks like it is not getting good adhesion.
Ahh, okay. So I should be getting better results. I might dive into the Bambu Reddit. It's just...god damn, there are so many variables to try and adjust. I've gone up to 220° for the nozzle temp but also the overhang speed has been set really slow. I'm using OrcaSlicer because it's supposed to offer a bit more control, but it's still kind of a guessing game.
Also, if you wanna link me to the overhang test you used, I’d be happy to run one off on my p1s and see what kind of results I’m getting with my settings.
Thank you! It was this test. They recommend printing without a top or infill. I couldn't figure out how to not do a top, but I think I found some settings on Reddit that at least reduced the infill. I printed like that the first time and the overhang was really falling apart. I brought back the infill on the subsequent prints and that seemed to at least keep it together, if not still messy.
If it's at all useful, this is the filament I used. The print temp range on that page says 200-210℃ but the spool it came on had a sticker stating that it was 195-205℃. Then there are things like tolerance, print speed, flow rate, etc where I'm never quite sure how many of them I really need to plug in to the filament settings.
I'm also fearful that I've messed around with sooooo many settings that I just need to go back to defaults on a lot of things and start from a fresh slate.
Alright, so, I think you should just reset everything to defaults.
I went bone stock with default settings with Bambu’s 0.20mm standard profile on my p1s, and used Bambu’s built in “Generic PLA” profile on this roll of Sunlu I had laying around and here’s what I got.
No top layer, 0% infill.
Looks about as perfect as can be expected. Even the 75 degree is usable functionally, and everything from 70 degrees and under is aesthetically passable.
TBH, this kind of performance has been my experience on almost every filament I’ve run through the P1S. Never touched Bambu’s stock generic PLA/PETG settings, just totally disregarded whatever the filament suggested for temp settings, and I’ve basically never had an issue.
I got around to do a couple more passes on that stress test this morning. The gray is a BL PETG spool I hadn't used yet. The black is a BL PLA spool I've used previously. Like yours, pretty close to the stock 0.20mm Standard profile for the 0.4mm nozzle (with the infill and top layer modifications you made). And stock settings on the filament profiles, I believe.
So much better! It's not quite as clean as yours, but still lightyears better than what it was. Everything's reasonably clean up through 75%. And I'm surprised the inside looks as good as it does considering the lack of infill.
What I *think* had been happening previously is that the fan for the nozzle wasn't plugged in all the way and wasn't cooling a damn thing. So I might have to tweak a few more things, but this is a lot closer to what I was expecting.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Awesome! Glad you dialed it in. Your inside looks pretty much how mine did, too, btw. So I think that’s totally good enough for just about anything most people would ever print. Definitely post the next big figure you print if you do another one of those. I’m betting it comes out waaaay nicer.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I did print out another planter before these tests since it's effectively all vertical. The only part that's a bit rough is the underside since it's a bit domed. I think I've seen videos on dialing that in, but it's the underside so I'm not really concerned with it. Again, because it's domed, I did have to use support. I was going to use PETG as the support like was suggested previously but the print time estimate went from 4 hours to 19 hours, so yeeeeah. I'll settle for PLA supports and dream of a dual-extruder system.
I think the next thing we're printing out is a dragon with that same rainbow PLA, so I'll post how that turns out.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Oh, were you using PETG as the whole support or just the support interface?
The latter just does a PLA support like normal, but then a thin strip (like 1-3 layers, I think) of PETG on top between the support and the object. It wastes less PETG, and usually has about 99% less filament swaps (so waaaay faster since it’ll only be swapping on a handful of layers instead of hundreds/thousands).
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Oh, were you using PETG as the whole support or just the support interface?
The latter just does a PLA support like normal, but then a thin strip (like 1-3 layers, I think) of PETG on top between the support and the object. It wastes less PETG, and usually has about 99% less filament swaps (so waaaay faster since it’ll only be swapping on a handful of layers instead of hundreds/thousands).
Oooooooooh, okay. I must have gotten that estimate by setting the whole support as PETG.
I've done one multicolor print before this, on a little white whale with two itty-bitty black eyes. The waste level was kind of staggering.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited January 28
Yeah, honestly I don’t think multicolor prints are usually worth the waste unless you’re doing a bunch of the same piece (since the waste will be the same with 1x of an item vs 15x of the same item). Or if you need to use a support filament for a big complex print.
99% of the time I’m just using my AMS to have easy access to multiple colors I print often, or to use the auto-swap feature to finish off a nearly empty spool.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Hey guys, I would like to get a relatively inexpensive printer to print some dnd terrain (houses, wagons etc.) Nothing crazy detailed like figures. I am completely new to the hobby and was looking at the neptune4 and 4 pro but reviews are very mixed. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Hey guys, I would like to get a relatively inexpensive printer to print some dnd terrain (houses, wagons etc.) Nothing crazy detailed like figures. I am completely new to the hobby and was looking at the neptune4 and 4 pro but reviews are very mixed. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What’s your budget and how amenable are you to tinkering?
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I cannot solve my stringing issue. Tried everything. Oh well. Still tinkering with things. Going to get an auto leveler for my next upgrade. There is an official firmware that supports it, although it is like 3 years old.
Hey guys, I would like to get a relatively inexpensive printer to print some dnd terrain (houses, wagons etc.) Nothing crazy detailed like figures. I am completely new to the hobby and was looking at the neptune4 and 4 pro but reviews are very mixed. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What’s your budget and how amenable are you to tinkering?
Budget would be $400 USD max, I'm not opposed to tinkering however I'm not the greatest at being patient and don't want to be fixing the thing every time I go to print something.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Hey guys, I would like to get a relatively inexpensive printer to print some dnd terrain (houses, wagons etc.) Nothing crazy detailed like figures. I am completely new to the hobby and was looking at the neptune4 and 4 pro but reviews are very mixed. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What’s your budget and how amenable are you to tinkering?
Budget would be $400 USD max, I'm not opposed to tinkering however I'm not the greatest at being patient and don't want to be fixing the thing every time I go to print something.
I would probably go with the Bambu A1. It’s $399, super fast, with user friendly software, and it’s dead simple to use. The only issue is that they just had a recall for a faulty heatbed cable, so it currently has a lead time of around a month or so before they start shipping again.
Alternately, the A1 mini is not affected by that recall and is basically the exact same thing, except with a smaller 7”x7” bed instead of a 10”x10” and it’s $100 less at $299.
If you want something a little cheaper and not Bambu, the Neptune 4 Pro is a great choice for about $260. It can be a little finicky and may need some occasional tinkering and adjusting that the Bambus rarely need, but it’s a solid workhorse, and it’s at least got auto bed leveling, which still isn’t totally ubiquitous in cheap printers.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Hey guys, I would like to get a relatively inexpensive printer to print some dnd terrain (houses, wagons etc.) Nothing crazy detailed like figures. I am completely new to the hobby and was looking at the neptune4 and 4 pro but reviews are very mixed. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What’s your budget and how amenable are you to tinkering?
Budget would be $400 USD max, I'm not opposed to tinkering however I'm not the greatest at being patient and don't want to be fixing the thing every time I go to print something.
I would probably go with the Bambu A1. It’s $399, super fast, with user friendly software, and it’s dead simple to use. The only issue is that they just had a recall for a faulty heatbed cable, so it currently has a lead time of around a month or so before they start shipping again.
Alternately, the A1 mini is not affected by that recall and is basically the exact same thing, except with a smaller 7”x7” bed instead of a 10”x10” and it’s $100 less at $299.
If you want something a little cheaper and not Bambu, the Neptune 4 Pro is a great choice for about $260. It can be a little finicky and may need some occasional tinkering and adjusting that the Bambus rarely need, but it’s a solid workhorse, and it’s at least got auto bed leveling, which still isn’t totally ubiquitous in cheap printers.
I cannot solve my stringing issue. Tried everything. Oh well. Still tinkering with things. Going to get an auto leveler for my next upgrade. There is an official firmware that supports it, although it is like 3 years old.
Yeah I've given up on that. I did make some progress on making it better but to me the frustration of cleaning up a mildly stringy print is less than constantly screwing with settings trying to fix it. My current bigger headache is supports. I've never gotten the hang of making easy/clean to remove supports, and there's lots of stuff I would like to print that require them but I skip because, well, headache.
Since I see a few of y'all have been living with Bambus for a while now: How is? Sounding like they work quite nicely, so how's the noise/odor/general living-with experience from them? (Assume the enclosure, obv the little guy's gonna be noisier and stinkier if it's naked.)
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Since I see a few of y'all have been living with Bambus for a while now: How is? Sounding like they work quite nicely, so how's the noise/odor/general living-with experience from them? (Assume the enclosure, obv the little guy's gonna be noisier and stinkier if it's naked.)
Mine got a firmware update a month or so ago that basically made it silent, so that was cool.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
There’s a good Slant 3D YouTube video on designed supports for mass production printing that applies just as well to normal designs.
And then there’s slicer supports, which are their own thing.
I have ever only used slicer supports. Cura does a decent job of making sure everything is supported, although it probably wastes a lot more filament. I recently took some notes from a reddit thread on how to improve support/print interface. Going to give them a try when i get some more filament in later this week.
Since I see a few of y'all have been living with Bambus for a while now: How is? Sounding like they work quite nicely, so how's the noise/odor/general living-with experience from them? (Assume the enclosure, obv the little guy's gonna be noisier and stinkier if it's naked.)
Mine got a firmware update a month or so ago that basically made it silent, so that was cool.
Yeah, the motor noise reduction stuff they added to the X1/P1 series (stolen from the A1 series) made a HUGE difference in noise. Quite nice.
I usually use tree supports but my printer has a really bad habit of snapping them off once they get thin enough near the top so i started making them thicker. Takes more time and wastes more filament but i have plenty of both.
Hmmm this was not supposed to happen. Not sure what went wrong. Chipped and sawed off as much as i could and now it is soaking in acetone. Going to do my best to fix it but if not, well i was thinking about upgrading my hot end anyways lol.
Ended up accidentally damaging the thermistor wires and not wanting to risk run away heating i just bought a newer version of the same hot end. Was a bit of a pain in the ass to get all of the wires threaded back through but it is up and running again. Currently printing a new shroud for better temperature control.
I love this dude’s channel, and yeah, same. So far I’ve gotten by fine with the carbon air filter and having it sit right next to an open window, but I’d definitely use his parts if I decide to properly vent it.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Arts and crafts thread made me aware of this thread, I just got authorized to use the fdm printers at the makerspace of my grad program. I’ll have to take a workshop for resin authorization at some point.
I think eventually I want to get into learning custom design stuff but I’m kinda slammed on work right now. Might try some basic thingiverse stuff, like I saw some board game player boards or the like that I could use.
As far as I know the only directly stated restriction has been “don’t print a gun”
Arts and crafts thread made me aware of this thread, I just got authorized to use the fdm printers at the makerspace of my grad program. I’ll have to take a workshop for resin authorization at some point.
I think eventually I want to get into learning custom design stuff but I’m kinda slammed on work right now. Might try some basic thingiverse stuff, like I saw some board game player boards or the like that I could use.
As far as I know the only directly stated restriction has been “don’t print a gun”
If you ever want a crash course in the super basics of 3d modeling and are down for doing Fusion 360 I'm happy to give you a quick introduction to it over Zoom or whatever, or at least pass along a couple of really good tutorials for learning to model simple stuff for 3D printing quickly.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Fusion 360 is pretty great, but it's really intimidating to get into. It's also not really intended for "artsy" things that are more freeform sculpting.
I was having some adhesion issues with my printer so i upgraded my firmware to a custom version with manual bed leveling. I then spent about 6 hours that night and 2 hours the next day getting the worst test prints i have ever seen. Everything looked like ass, nothing would adhere, it was so damn frustrating. And then, that next day after fucking with it for 2 more hours, i realized i had installed a BMG clone, and forgot to recalibrate my esteps when i updated the firmware. The default is like 93, and with the other feeder it needed to be like 428. So that was a huge waste of time and anxiety.
Oh geeze I just realized I hadn't really posted much here recently. Hey folks! I've been a busy boy. I'm currently working on a nearly fully 3D printed resin printer enclosure, I got back into Magic the Gathering and have been 3D printing and designing my own little tokens and stuff for it, oh and I made and painted this:
This year I plan on upgrading my resin printer at some point, and I'm going to get the kit to upgrade my Bambu P1P to a P1S
Posts
They're both under the "Strength" tab when you're in "Prepare".
For top shell, you'd want to set layers and thickness to 0 to eliminate the top layer all together.
For infill, it's specifically the "Sparse Infill" setting. Same as above, 0% eliminates it all together. I'd also advise never using their default grid infill, FYI. Almost any other one is better, but my preferred ones are Gyroid or Honeycomb, personally.
It is a video where someone made Karlach into a doll
As it is something I want to print those parts and such
Mostly I want to get a printer to fix and build items for my wargaming stuff. I think this ideal is two different printers
I got around to do a couple more passes on that stress test this morning. The gray is a BL PETG spool I hadn't used yet. The black is a BL PLA spool I've used previously. Like yours, pretty close to the stock 0.20mm Standard profile for the 0.4mm nozzle (with the infill and top layer modifications you made). And stock settings on the filament profiles, I believe.
So much better! It's not quite as clean as yours, but still lightyears better than what it was. Everything's reasonably clean up through 75%. And I'm surprised the inside looks as good as it does considering the lack of infill.
What I *think* had been happening previously is that the fan for the nozzle wasn't plugged in all the way and wasn't cooling a damn thing. So I might have to tweak a few more things, but this is a lot closer to what I was expecting.
I think the next thing we're printing out is a dragon with that same rainbow PLA, so I'll post how that turns out.
The latter just does a PLA support like normal, but then a thin strip (like 1-3 layers, I think) of PETG on top between the support and the object. It wastes less PETG, and usually has about 99% less filament swaps (so waaaay faster since it’ll only be swapping on a handful of layers instead of hundreds/thousands).
Oooooooooh, okay. I must have gotten that estimate by setting the whole support as PETG.
I've done one multicolor print before this, on a little white whale with two itty-bitty black eyes. The waste level was kind of staggering.
99% of the time I’m just using my AMS to have easy access to multiple colors I print often, or to use the auto-swap feature to finish off a nearly empty spool.
What’s your budget and how amenable are you to tinkering?
PSN:Furlion
Budget would be $400 USD max, I'm not opposed to tinkering however I'm not the greatest at being patient and don't want to be fixing the thing every time I go to print something.
I would probably go with the Bambu A1. It’s $399, super fast, with user friendly software, and it’s dead simple to use. The only issue is that they just had a recall for a faulty heatbed cable, so it currently has a lead time of around a month or so before they start shipping again.
Alternately, the A1 mini is not affected by that recall and is basically the exact same thing, except with a smaller 7”x7” bed instead of a 10”x10” and it’s $100 less at $299.
If you want something a little cheaper and not Bambu, the Neptune 4 Pro is a great choice for about $260. It can be a little finicky and may need some occasional tinkering and adjusting that the Bambus rarely need, but it’s a solid workhorse, and it’s at least got auto bed leveling, which still isn’t totally ubiquitous in cheap printers.
Deadly, thank you very much.
Yeah I've given up on that. I did make some progress on making it better but to me the frustration of cleaning up a mildly stringy print is less than constantly screwing with settings trying to fix it. My current bigger headache is supports. I've never gotten the hang of making easy/clean to remove supports, and there's lots of stuff I would like to print that require them but I skip because, well, headache.
There’s a good Slant 3D YouTube video on designed supports for mass production printing that applies just as well to normal designs.
And then there’s slicer supports, which are their own thing.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Mine got a firmware update a month or so ago that basically made it silent, so that was cool.
I have ever only used slicer supports. Cura does a decent job of making sure everything is supported, although it probably wastes a lot more filament. I recently took some notes from a reddit thread on how to improve support/print interface. Going to give them a try when i get some more filament in later this week.
PSN:Furlion
Just slicer supports that are easy to remove, like without a lot of cutting/sanding etc. I know easy is probably relative
Yeah, the motor noise reduction stuff they added to the X1/P1 series (stolen from the A1 series) made a HUGE difference in noise. Quite nice.
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
Uncle Jessy did a video on using organic supports that might be helpful.
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
PSN:Furlion
PSN:Furlion
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
PSN:Furlion
I love this dude’s channel, and yeah, same. So far I’ve gotten by fine with the carbon air filter and having it sit right next to an open window, but I’d definitely use his parts if I decide to properly vent it.
I think eventually I want to get into learning custom design stuff but I’m kinda slammed on work right now. Might try some basic thingiverse stuff, like I saw some board game player boards or the like that I could use.
As far as I know the only directly stated restriction has been “don’t print a gun”
If you ever want a crash course in the super basics of 3d modeling and are down for doing Fusion 360 I'm happy to give you a quick introduction to it over Zoom or whatever, or at least pass along a couple of really good tutorials for learning to model simple stuff for 3D printing quickly.
PSN:Furlion
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
This year I plan on upgrading my resin printer at some point, and I'm going to get the kit to upgrade my Bambu P1P to a P1S