Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
First actual print that's not a cube! Nanomachine Arc Reactor, the details in the hexagons at the top came out really well, hope they don't get lost in the paint job. I had some curling up at the bottom edges. I'm printing PLA at 200c onto a 70c plate, any idea why I'd get this curling at some edges but not all of em?
Also! The recipe for this item requires a clear ABS plate for the front and inner workings, to diffuse light. Anyone got experience printing ABS on an Ender 3 without it going horribly wrong? :P
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
When I was at 60, I couldn't get it to stick to the glass plate at all, when the extruder switched angles it would drag the previous line with it. Even got it slowed down to 50mm/s.
When I was at 60, I couldn't get it to stick to the glass plate at all, when the extruder switched angles it would drag the previous line with it. Even got it slowed down to 50mm/s.
Try going even slower for the first layer, I'm down to 30mm/s sometimes.
Decided to finally try 3D printing. Got a Creality CR10S Pro on the way as it seemed to have decent reviews and included some upgrades that many people seem to end up doing anyway on other models.
Any recommendations on places to download a decent Cura profile(s) to use as a starting point? The hundred different parameters to configure are a little overwhelming and most aren't even set in the included defaults to give a hint where to begin.
It should include what settings to enter on some slicer program. Don't know of anything specific to the model myself, sorry.
First actual print that's not a cube! Nanomachine Arc Reactor, the details in the hexagons at the top came out really well, hope they don't get lost in the paint job. I had some curling up at the bottom edges. I'm printing PLA at 200c onto a 70c plate, any idea why I'd get this curling at some edges but not all of em?
Also! The recipe for this item requires a clear ABS plate for the front and inner workings, to diffuse light. Anyone got experience printing ABS on an Ender 3 without it going horribly wrong? :P
I just tried ABS on my Ender 3 for the first time today... I've had it for about a month and it printed pla+ with some excellent results. ABS was a yardsale.
From reading a bit and asking a few questions on Reddit, ABS needs a much higher temp on your hot end, a much higher temp on your bed, and absolutely needs an enclosure.
I bumped the bed temp from 60 to 100, the hot end from 210 to 230 and through an industrial garbage bag over the whole thing to see if that would improve print quality, and it did. So tomorrow I think I need to build an enclosure..
When I was at 60, I couldn't get it to stick to the glass plate at all, when the extruder switched angles it would drag the previous line with it. Even got it slowed down to 50mm/s.
Try going even slower for the first layer, I'm down to 30mm/s sometimes.
Yeah, I print my first layer at 20mm then up it to 50 for the rest. That said the cura profile for ender 5 had this preset to 30mm so it might already be happening for Raven as well.
my boss is toying with the idea of getting a 3d printer for work, we have a couple of projects that might benefit from them but after that I have no idea what we could use it for
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
my boss is toying with the idea of getting a 3d printer for work, we have a couple of projects that might benefit from them but after that I have no idea what we could use it for
Obviously is something you can take home to 'work on and fix' because it was having 'performance issues'
my boss is toying with the idea of getting a 3d printer for work, we have a couple of projects that might benefit from them but after that I have no idea what we could use it for
Obviously is something you can take home to 'work on and fix' because it was having 'performance issues'
he said I could use it because I mentioned I was going to get one for home one day
which is good because I'm hella indecisive!
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
my boss is toying with the idea of getting a 3d printer for work, we have a couple of projects that might benefit from them but after that I have no idea what we could use it for
Obviously is something you can take home to 'work on and fix' because it was having 'performance issues'
he said I could use it because I mentioned I was going to get one for home one day
now I just gotta find projects a doctors office could use a 3d printer for
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
How well equipped are you WRT imaging devices? Because I guarantee there’s a market for prenatal sculptures created from ultrasounds.
Custom openable casts with hinges and reusable closures?
Fixing the broken castor on that one IV stand everyone hates?
Custom fitted cups and other attachments for prostheses?
Finally replacing the missing star piece from the “match the shapes” toy in the waiting room?
The possibilities are endless!
Seriously though, think of something that would normally be tedious and/or expensive to get custom made, especially when compared to the net return, and apply the magic of additive manufacturing.
How well equipped are you WRT imaging devices? Because I guarantee there’s a market for prenatal sculptures created from ultrasounds.
Custom openable casts with hinges and reusable closures?
Fixing the broken castor on that one IV stand everyone hates?
Custom fitted cups and other attachments for prostheses?
Finally replacing the missing star piece from the “match the shapes” toy in the waiting room?
The possibilities are endless!
Seriously though, think of something that would normally be tedious and/or expensive to get custom made, especially when compared to the net return, and apply the magic of additive manufacturing.
Yeah we have some equipment that could use with some new holders and such. Like our ultrasound wand would be nice to have a holder that fits on the bar so it's not all coiled up on the machine.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Replaced my ender 3 stock nozzle with a .2mm nozzle yesterday and ended learning how to clear my first clog :?
After screwing around with bowden tube and cleaning the hot end, my next upgrade will be an all metal microswiss hot end. It looks like it has way less room for failure due to bowden tube mishaps.
So I'd like to hear some opinions. I've got a bit of free cash to spend on a new tech toy..current options are a Occulus Rift / other VR helm or maybe a 3D printer.
1) I have no artistic skills. I'm sure anything i would try to make manually would be utter crap. Is there really enough stuff out there for download that can make this something fun and practical or will it just be one of those things that i tinker with a few times to make better bits for my boardgame collection, then put it aside.
2) How do you keep your cat/pet away from the device while its running.
1. Yes there's lots and lots out there.
2. Various enclosures. some diy. there's a semi popular Ikea cabinet. I've seen people that just use large cardboard boxes.
Wonder what happens when the tolerances get good enough to print the entire gearbox, with screws and washers in-place…
So a version of this has been available commercially for a little while. Tolerance wise it's tough to get close enough for real precision stuff. The big deal is in making things you simply can not make by traditional means. Want a cooling channel in your engine that just spirals around the cylinders? Impossible to machine or mold but this stuff handles it with ease. Doesn't really matter is your cooling channels aren't ±.001" when they spiral in a way you could never drill, can avoid right angles for better flow and don't have to be plugged at one end.
sigh, my hot end has started jamming after the first layer, every time, doesn't matter what filament or slicer I user. I remove and reinsert the filament at high heat and it works fine again, for the first one or two layers, then jam. Tried a cold pull with no visible debris. Anyway I go to replace the hot end as I have a spare on hand and i can't think of what else it could be and...the cheap chinese screws on my hot end cover are all stripped...fml
Wonder what happens when the tolerances get good enough to print the entire gearbox, with screws and washers in-place…
So a version of this has been available commercially for a little while. Tolerance wise it's tough to get close enough for real precision stuff. The big deal is in making things you simply can not make by traditional means. Want a cooling channel in your engine that just spirals around the cylinders? Impossible to machine or mold but this stuff handles it with ease. Doesn't really matter is your cooling channels aren't ±.001" when they spiral in a way you could never drill, can avoid right angles for better flow and don't have to be plugged at one end.
Potentially you'd be able to machine sections as well if you needed more precision. If you had good access on the part. Like the cylinders in your example, if they print out slightly out of tolerance, then add a bit of material to those walls in the print and machine out the cylinder wall to spec. Pretty sure they do that with casting.
I do wonder if the process for getting it sent out and what needs to happen will be documented and if its something you could shop around for. I'm sure someone is going to try and homebrew a solution.
Wonder what happens when the tolerances get good enough to print the entire gearbox, with screws and washers in-place…
So a version of this has been available commercially for a little while. Tolerance wise it's tough to get close enough for real precision stuff. The big deal is in making things you simply can not make by traditional means. Want a cooling channel in your engine that just spirals around the cylinders? Impossible to machine or mold but this stuff handles it with ease. Doesn't really matter is your cooling channels aren't ±.001" when they spiral in a way you could never drill, can avoid right angles for better flow and don't have to be plugged at one end.
Potentially you'd be able to machine sections as well if you needed more precision. If you had good access on the part. Like the cylinders in your example, if they print out slightly out of tolerance, then add a bit of material to those walls in the print and machine out the cylinder wall to spec. Pretty sure they do that with casting.
I do wonder if the process for getting it sent out and what needs to happen will be documented and if its something you could shop around for. I'm sure someone is going to try and homebrew a solution.
Oh, absolutely. So I know about this for building molds, like this example for feeding material into a mold:
The outer diameter, the inner diameter and the spherical radius on the bottom are all gonna be cleaned up by machining but those are all really easy as far as machining goes. That water channel? Utterly impossible to put in any other way. Really, even traditional cooling channels are tough for these things, called sprue bushings, because you would need so much thickness in them to have a flow channel. Printing you can get those weirdly ribbon-ish channels for plenty of flow without having to deal with all the thickness from a round hole. Stuff is amazing.
So why does the metal need to be sent out? Why isn't it something that can be done at home?
Because you need to do catalytic debinding (removing the plastic) and sintering (melting the metal particles together) to get a solid metal part. Catalytic debinding requires a heated vessel purged with pure nitrogen and then filled with nitric acid gas. You also need a high temp way to burn off all the byproducts of the process including formaldehyde. Sintering requires a high temp furnace with a pure hydrogen atmosphere or vacuum. Not exactly stuff your average person can afford to have in their garage.
edited for clarification
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
To translate in a not accurate way: what you're printing is plastic resin that has a LOT of tiny metal particles in it for the ride. You need to get rid of the plastic resin in a way that doesn't cause the item to lose its shape then get the metal parts to adhere to each other. Both of those require temps you won't easily get at home and both need to be done in controlled environments if you don't want to ruin your material properties (like strength and hardness.)
Got a new desk that's a sti/stand desk. I work from home, and have my personal PC and 2 work laptops. New desk doesn't have much cable hiding options, so I've been trying to mount as much as possible to the desk. Having the 3d printer super helps with that.
Made a bracket for my docking station type thingie:
Also have a USB hub to swap between the different computers and needed a way to mount the switch. Right now it has magnets, but I may change the model to have a screw go through to mount to the desk. Or doublesided tape.
Currently printing extensions to increase the leg length of the Ikea Lack tables so I can fit my Ender 3 between them. Then putting the delta printer on top.
+2
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Anyone got recommendations for a clear PLA? Doesn't have to be like glass, it's to diffuse light for my Arc Reactor print, need to be able to see the infill through it and not having any success printing in ABS.
Hatchbox apparently has a "Transparent White" but it's outta stock everywhere!
Posts
First actual print that's not a cube! Nanomachine Arc Reactor, the details in the hexagons at the top came out really well, hope they don't get lost in the paint job. I had some curling up at the bottom edges. I'm printing PLA at 200c onto a 70c plate, any idea why I'd get this curling at some edges but not all of em?
Also! The recipe for this item requires a clear ABS plate for the front and inner workings, to diffuse light. Anyone got experience printing ABS on an Ender 3 without it going horribly wrong? :P
Steam ID: Good Life
Try going even slower for the first layer, I'm down to 30mm/s sometimes.
It should include what settings to enter on some slicer program. Don't know of anything specific to the model myself, sorry.
I just tried ABS on my Ender 3 for the first time today... I've had it for about a month and it printed pla+ with some excellent results. ABS was a yardsale.
From reading a bit and asking a few questions on Reddit, ABS needs a much higher temp on your hot end, a much higher temp on your bed, and absolutely needs an enclosure.
I bumped the bed temp from 60 to 100, the hot end from 210 to 230 and through an industrial garbage bag over the whole thing to see if that would improve print quality, and it did. So tomorrow I think I need to build an enclosure..
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yeah, I print my first layer at 20mm then up it to 50 for the rest. That said the cura profile for ender 5 had this preset to 30mm so it might already be happening for Raven as well.
Obviously is something you can take home to 'work on and fix' because it was having 'performance issues'
he said I could use it because I mentioned I was going to get one for home one day
which is good because I'm hella indecisive!
Well thats super awesome then!
Custom openable casts with hinges and reusable closures?
Fixing the broken castor on that one IV stand everyone hates?
Custom fitted cups and other attachments for prostheses?
Finally replacing the missing star piece from the “match the shapes” toy in the waiting room?
The possibilities are endless!
Seriously though, think of something that would normally be tedious and/or expensive to get custom made, especially when compared to the net return, and apply the magic of additive manufacturing.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
https://futurism.com/neoscope/man-receives-worlds-first-3d-printed-tibia-replacement
Steam ID: Good Life
Yeah we have some equipment that could use with some new holders and such. Like our ultrasound wand would be nice to have a holder that fits on the bar so it's not all coiled up on the machine.
After screwing around with bowden tube and cleaning the hot end, my next upgrade will be an all metal microswiss hot end. It looks like it has way less room for failure due to bowden tube mishaps.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
1) I have no artistic skills. I'm sure anything i would try to make manually would be utter crap. Is there really enough stuff out there for download that can make this something fun and practical or will it just be one of those things that i tinker with a few times to make better bits for my boardgame collection, then put it aside.
2) How do you keep your cat/pet away from the device while its running.
2. Various enclosures. some diy. there's a semi popular Ikea cabinet. I've seen people that just use large cardboard boxes.
Steam ID: Good Life
https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
So a version of this has been available commercially for a little while. Tolerance wise it's tough to get close enough for real precision stuff. The big deal is in making things you simply can not make by traditional means. Want a cooling channel in your engine that just spirals around the cylinders? Impossible to machine or mold but this stuff handles it with ease. Doesn't really matter is your cooling channels aren't ±.001" when they spiral in a way you could never drill, can avoid right angles for better flow and don't have to be plugged at one end.
Potentially you'd be able to machine sections as well if you needed more precision. If you had good access on the part. Like the cylinders in your example, if they print out slightly out of tolerance, then add a bit of material to those walls in the print and machine out the cylinder wall to spec. Pretty sure they do that with casting.
I do wonder if the process for getting it sent out and what needs to happen will be documented and if its something you could shop around for. I'm sure someone is going to try and homebrew a solution.
Oh, absolutely. So I know about this for building molds, like this example for feeding material into a mold:
The outer diameter, the inner diameter and the spherical radius on the bottom are all gonna be cleaned up by machining but those are all really easy as far as machining goes. That water channel? Utterly impossible to put in any other way. Really, even traditional cooling channels are tough for these things, called sprue bushings, because you would need so much thickness in them to have a flow channel. Printing you can get those weirdly ribbon-ish channels for plenty of flow without having to deal with all the thickness from a round hole. Stuff is amazing.
Link?
Wargaming terrain is mostly what I've made with my Ender 3 so far
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
It's this wall set. https://www.infinitedimensions.ca/product/medieval-modular-3d-printable-walls/
It has 45/90 degree corner posts, as well a the joint one that swings 180 degrees so you can build pretty much any shape.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Steam ID: Good Life
Because you need to do catalytic debinding (removing the plastic) and sintering (melting the metal particles together) to get a solid metal part. Catalytic debinding requires a heated vessel purged with pure nitrogen and then filled with nitric acid gas. You also need a high temp way to burn off all the byproducts of the process including formaldehyde. Sintering requires a high temp furnace with a pure hydrogen atmosphere or vacuum. Not exactly stuff your average person can afford to have in their garage.
edited for clarification
Steam ID: Good Life
Made a bracket for my docking station type thingie:
Also have a USB hub to swap between the different computers and needed a way to mount the switch. Right now it has magnets, but I may change the model to have a screw go through to mount to the desk. Or doublesided tape.
Also currently printing a headset holder.
Hatchbox apparently has a "Transparent White" but it's outta stock everywhere!
Steam ID: Good Life