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Brake maintenance
Nova_C
I have the needThe need for speedRegistered User regular
I have the needThe need for speedRegistered User regular
My google-fu appears weak. I'm having trouble finding a site that talks about changing out the brakes on a 1991 Ford Mustang LX. Any advice from those knowledgeable or directions to a site that has advice on doing this, I would appreciate it.
Nova_C on
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http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&q=ford+mustang+forum&btnG=Google+Search
yields www.mustangforums.com. I didn't check out the site, but give it a look. Even if they don't have directions posted, I'm sure there are people there who can give you detailed directions.
See how many books I've read so far in 2010
*might wanna check wether your brakes bleed a little when changing pads, because if you get that stuff anywhere on the car itself, bye bye paint.
See how many books I've read so far in 2010
About the most special tool you'll need for disc brakes is a G clamp to make opening the calipers easier. Very tedious and annoying to move it back any other way, simply because getting even pressure on it to make it go back in dead straight is very difficult without a G clamp.
One thing I can tell you is, disc brakes are basically the same on any car. To replace the pads you pretty much undo the 2 retaining bolts, slide the caliper off the disc, pull the front pad out, leave the one against the piston there so you can put the G clamp over the caliper and only open it so it is flush with the back of the caliper. Stops you damaging the piston. Then take that pad out, slide the new ones in, slip the caliper back over the disc and bolt it back on. Get in the car and pump the brake pedal till it gets a bit harder to push. If you have a brake booster, start the engine and pump the brake pedal 5-10 times as well. You wont really find much different to that in ANY car. Drum brakes are pretty self explaining as well.
On most modern cars with disc brakes you will have to rotate the rear pistons in and this is true of the mustang in the OP as well. I've changed the brakes on a similar mustang several times and had to use the tool to rotate the piston back into the caliper. Luckily the tool only costs about $10. It looks like a hollow cube with different type posts coming out of the 6 sides. one of these posts will match up with the indentions in the piston face. then you just stick a 3/8" extension in the hole on the opposite face and attach your socket wrench and turn until you can put the caliper back on with the new brake pads installed.
I prefer to only remove one of the retaining bolts, while only loosening the other one. this allows the caliper to remain mounted and swing out of the way of the pads. It also eases reattaching the caliper since you don't have to worry about lining up holes that are difficult to see.
I second the advice about getting a haynes or chiltons manual. Any auto parts chain in your area should have the manual for your car in stock.
Yeap, that's the tool. Or you can get riggy and use a needlenose pliers, stick the nose in the holes...which isn't very fun. You can go to autozone.com and see if your car is under their repair information link. They got some good info that a hanyes manual may not have. The only trouble with those haynes is that they kinda suck. Better than nothing but sometimes it just seems like they really half-ass a lotta shit. Kinda vague instructions and sometimes it's wrong. You wanna get real crazy, buy a shop manual online. Hell, some places will sell you a CD with, like, every manual for every make of your car on it for bout 10 bucks. eBay it. Don't forget to take the lid off the brake fluid resvior so the fluid can rise back up when you push the caliper back...