I almost exclusively use Vallejo's airbrush thinner (yes, even for brushwork) and glaze medium.
You can buy both in larger bottles (the former comes in 200ml I think).
Yea, I've been using flow improver instead of airbrush thinner. I have no idea what the difference between the two is beyond thinner generally causes paint to dry faster.
Edit: on a side note my brother is using fluorescent paint on his tyranids and I feel like I need to make a game board that is just all fluorescent and rave nonsense.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
But I even gave him some green stuff pants to cover his butt! You can see his nipples though...
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Still working on stripping paint from my colorshift Tau. Having a real hard time convincing myself to repaint them in colorshift. Part of me wants to but I also have a real hard time figuring out what else to paint using what colors.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
How do you know when a model is done well enough? I find myself spending way too much time on individual models because I end up obsessing over color choices or the transitions in light/shadows.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
How do you know when a model is done well enough? I find myself spending way too much time on individual models because I end up obsessing over color choices or the transitions in light/shadows.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
Everything gets one layer of paint (may be more than one coat), and no re-dos.
How do you know when a model is done well enough? I find myself spending way too much time on individual models because I end up obsessing over color choices or the transitions in light/shadows.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
To try and move some models out of my queue, I've been trying to do a bunch with just Contrast and maybe (MAYBE) a pass to touch things up or highlight something (usually small metallic things). It doesn't make the prettiest things, but I cleared out all of the Mansions of Madness minis (from the base game, at least) in short order.
How do you know when a model is done well enough? I find myself spending way too much time on individual models because I end up obsessing over color choices or the transitions in light/shadows.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
The jerk answer is 'art is never completed, only abandoned'
It's all personal preference. Is it a contest entry? Is it a display piece? Is it fun to paint? does it just need to be tabletop quality? Are you nitpicking yourself or challenging yourself? You just gotta figure out your balance you can live with, imo.
How do you know when a model is done well enough? I find myself spending way too much time on individual models because I end up obsessing over color choices or the transitions in light/shadows.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
The jerk answer is 'art is never completed, only abandoned'
It's all personal preference. Is it a contest entry? Is it a display piece? Is it fun to paint? does it just need to be tabletop quality? Are you nitpicking yourself or challenging yourself? You just gotta figure out your balance you can live with, imo.
Man that's not a jerk answer, slightly flippant maybe, but it cuts pretty close to the bone. You've hit the nail on the head though, it's all about personal preference and intent. It's something I actually care about a lot because learning to not obsess has been super healthy for my hobby.
A few years ago I'd been really pushing myself to improve. Trying not to sound like a jerk, (But failing) I was pretty good. Like was winning best painted at tournaments, winning online comps, getting mad likes on Facebook (The greatest of success ) aaaand it KILLED my hobby. I was painting at the best standard I've ever painted at but was having no fun, nitpicking over everything, getting mad if obviously worse entries beat mine etc. Basically I'd become a big ol self absorbed narcissist. And one who wasn't getting any projects done because I was getting frustrated at how long it took me to do things, because I couldn't tone down and had to do everything to the best of my ability.
It killed my desire to paint for at least a year or so. You can tack this whole process on these very forums as there's a point where I just stopped posting nearly as much.
Now im very happy with my hobby but it's taken me a couple of years to get back into a good groove. The main thing that helped me was just smashing out a Bolt Action army and not caring about the results too much. I painted a bunch of green/khaki seppos and they looked fine for very little effort. Since the I've been painting Warhammer Underworlds to a decent standard and really enjoying the variety of models, but also have been smashing out heaps of models of the Song of Ice and Fire game, really just taking things to table top standard because thats all that is needed on a rank and file game, while spending more time on character models like the Mountain who I posted earlier.
Learning to be satisfied when I get a model to a certain level thats fit for purpose has been so healthy for me. I have a friend who fussed over everything and he's painted 6 models on the last 6 months and hes not really happy with them because he just would not stop fiddling and ended up making them look worse because of it.
I haven't spent ages on a model to push myself in a while and these days I think I get more happiness out of having an army or force done to a decent standard than a small number of models done to a great standard. That said I got Marvel Crisis Protocol for my birthday...
And just so this post isnt all self absorbed drivel, here's my Targaryen army. Painted over 3 weeks and you know what, they're fine. Not the best of my ability, but they look great on tabletop.
It was a combo of losing my father, playing with total silly geese at 40k, and work that killed my desire to paint about 10 years ago.
It's odd to find the stuff I painted and wonder how did I do that? Back when I first started to paint there were a lot of jerks who felt they needed to do brutal critics of what you painted. Of you didn't do an edge highlight {at the time I didn't know what it was even though I asked what and was told you didn't do it.} It's been that drive to paint better for me. Warhammer TV with Duncan the robot and others really did help me relearn and get back into it.
But I like painting it's very much a stress reliever and cathartic
Ok, so I did a primer vs base coat test on a reaper mini. Sadly the mini wasn't cleaned enough so I got a little bit of the soapy effect where the paint doesnt go on clean.
The attempts are cut left/right by the sash rope on his back.
On the left is white alchohol primed only, and on the right is corax white base. I then put darthoath flesh over top. 1 thick overdone coat on the right, 1 regular-ish coat on the left. Streakyness doesnt seem to appear on the left(the brush on primer usually goes streaky), but I am thinking the right side looks better overall.
Overall I thought I would get more coverage and cover over the white on the wider surface parts. It kind of looks like I just hit it with 4-5 coats of a thinned shade? I'm not sure if I want to do my army like this. I dont think I could do a second coat with this, as it really pools hard in the crevaces.
A trip a through nostalgia with some dark eldar of the different age https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUUSDHg8gxw
I do like the orange with white helm I might do some of the ones I have with it
Ok, so I did a primer vs base coat test on a reaper mini. Sadly the mini wasn't cleaned enough so I got a little bit of the soapy effect where the paint doesnt go on clean.
The attempts are cut left/right by the sash rope on his back.
On the left is white alchohol primed only, and on the right is corax white base. I then put darthoath flesh over top. 1 thick overdone coat on the right, 1 regular-ish coat on the left. Streakyness doesnt seem to appear on the left(the brush on primer usually goes streaky), but I am thinking the right side looks better overall.
Still I am now very curious how I can do the veiled path in contrast paint. Also what black is Corvus Black? A darker black than Chaos? Or Darker than Abaddon or somewhere in-between?
Looking at the website, Abaddon Black and Corvus Black are probably pretty close. I think Corvus is slightly more grey, maybe? Abaddon Black is still around, though, I think?
Ceramite White, which was shit, was replaced with Corax White, which is still kinda shit. Very chunky paint. I had thought my pot of Ceramite was ruined until I bought another pot of it, and it turned out to be Corax, and just as chunky. So I googled and the consensus is that the paint is just bad.
Both Corvus and Corax are the names of their spray can black / whites. So it's just them consolidating. They did this around June 2019 when they brought over a bunch of Forge World exclusive paints to the main GW lineup as they slowly shut down Forge World. For example, Iron Warriors (a Leadbelcher with nuln oil already added), Grey Knights Steel (Blue tinted Leadbelcher), etc. They also canceled the Glazes at the same time, like Guilliman Blue.
Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.
Vallejo Black is the best black I've ever used. I haven't had as much luck with their white, and their Model Color metals are kinda... meeeeh. They look like they have glitter in them. But that Vallejo Model Color Black is just... wow. I also have taken to using Black Grey (or Neutral Grey, I forget which) for Power Armor joints, as a quick dash of Nuln oil afterwards and it's like I actually intended it to look like that. (Black with nice highlights.)
I also highly suggest Badger Stynylrez air primers, which I use as brush on primer. It's basically a somewhat milky black / grey / white paint that dries hard, like a candy coat. I live in an apartment and rattlecan primers aren't an option. However, you cannot get Badger Stynylrez in winter, as if it goes below freezing it is ruined.
Other than that, look into Liquitex, they do art supplies for Canvas painting. Matte Fluid Medium is basically a milky white Lahmian Medium but they sell it for 250ml for like $9. I've also got their Matte Varnish for protecting miniatures, as well as Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder (which allows for wet blending) and Flow Aid (which is a surficant, makes your paint not stick to the brush as easy, which is very useful.) The Flow aid has instructions that read to mix something like 25:1 water:flow-aid, and since I'm working in 15ml containers, that's... difficult.
These things are amazing. I put one in every dropper bottle and pot I have, two in some stubborn ones like GW Metallics. They agitate the crap out of the paint as you shake the pot or dropper bottle. Basically turn them into rattle... pots.
I almost exclusively use Vallejo's airbrush thinner (yes, even for brushwork) and glaze medium.
You can buy both in larger bottles (the former comes in 200ml I think).
Yea, I've been using flow improver instead of airbrush thinner. I have no idea what the difference between the two is beyond thinner generally causes paint to dry faster.
Edit: on a side note my brother is using fluorescent paint on his tyranids and I feel like I need to make a game board that is just all fluorescent and rave nonsense.
Wait, are you using it to thin paint? Dumb question by doesn't water work well enough?
I almost exclusively use Vallejo's airbrush thinner (yes, even for brushwork) and glaze medium.
You can buy both in larger bottles (the former comes in 200ml I think).
Yea, I've been using flow improver instead of airbrush thinner. I have no idea what the difference between the two is beyond thinner generally causes paint to dry faster.
Edit: on a side note my brother is using fluorescent paint on his tyranids and I feel like I need to make a game board that is just all fluorescent and rave nonsense.
Wait, are you using it to thin paint? Dumb question by doesn't water work well enough?
Water is fine but from what I've seen medium helps keep the consistency of the paint and flow improver has medium in it so I use small amounts to thin the paints.
I have no idea if it actually makes a real difference but I have a bunch because of my airbrush.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Ok, so I did a primer vs base coat test on a reaper mini. Sadly the mini wasn't cleaned enough so I got a little bit of the soapy effect where the paint doesnt go on clean.
The attempts are cut left/right by the sash rope on his back.
On the left is white alchohol primed only, and on the right is corax white base. I then put darthoath flesh over top. 1 thick overdone coat on the right, 1 regular-ish coat on the left. Streakyness doesnt seem to appear on the left(the brush on primer usually goes streaky), but I am thinking the right side looks better overall.
What do you mean by "white alcohol primed"?
It's an alcohol based brush on surface primer by Vallejo. I like their black, but the white goes on really streaky. I did some skin tone over a really streaky white primed model today and it came out ok. I think above or on a previous page someone said just go with their grey if you need non black, I think I am going to do that from now on.
Also use medium/thinner on metallic's and not water to thin. On other paints, you get different effects from using either, but either work and its up to what you want the final product to look like. Metallic paints generally are actual flakes and not pigment, so water doesnt thin it well.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I wish I could get something with harder bristles than the toothbrush I'm using but small enough to be used on small models so I could really scrub away this paint.
I need to buy a bunch of smaller containers to keep these models in so in case pieces fall off I know exactly what they go to.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I wish I could get something with harder bristles than the toothbrush I'm using but small enough to be used on small models so I could really scrub away this paint.
I need to buy a bunch of smaller containers to keep these models in so in case pieces fall off I know exactly what they go to.
Simple green is dissolving the super glue?
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I wish I could get something with harder bristles than the toothbrush I'm using but small enough to be used on small models so I could really scrub away this paint.
I need to buy a bunch of smaller containers to keep these models in so in case pieces fall off I know exactly what they go to.
Simple green is dissolving the super glue?
I don't think it is. I'm more leaning toward I didn't glue it well enough and then the vibration from using an old electric toothbrush and the pressure I'm putting on some parts is knocking off arms.
I've stripped a stupid amount of models with simple green and it usually happens on a few models but besides those the glue stays real strong. I really think it is just shoddy gluing on my part.
Also, I think I found out what I can use some of these colorshift paints on. I think I'm gonna paint all the metal pieces on my Skaven with colorshift.
This is gonna be a nightmare, yay!
Edit: Wait, I don't want all the armor plates to be colorshift though. Just the smaller stuff, I still want the cloth and armor plates to be fluorescent. I'm gonna have to take a look at these models again. Maybe I can do edge highlighting with colorshift but I have no idea how colorshift would look over fluorescent paint. Time to test stuff.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
From my colorshift tests and tests I've seen, it works best over black(especially glossy)/dark colors. You can shift metallic's with it, with a bunch of work. Godspeed and good luck on that!
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
From my colorshift tests and tests I've seen, it works best over black(especially glossy)/dark colors. You can shift metallic's with it, with a bunch of work. Godspeed and good luck on that!
Yea, I always use gloss black primer when I use colorshift paint. Worst comes to worse I will tediously brush paint these details and edges with gloss black primer and then do a few layers of colorshift.
Though I am interested to see what colorshift does over other colors. It might end up looking cool/interesting.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Corvus Black is not black, but rather a very dark cool grey. I bought it by accident butbhave got some good use out of it. It's good for highlighting black without making it too grey, and if you use it as your base, you can shade it down with real black for a pretty good look.
If you go back a few pages and look at The Mountain Who Rides, I painted, all the black on that model is corvus black base.
Corvus Black is not black, but rather a very dark cool grey. I bought it by accident butbhave got some good use out of it. It's good for highlighting black without making it too grey, and if you use it as your base, you can shade it down with real black for a pretty good look.
If you go back a few pages and look at The Mountain Who Rides, I painted, all the black on that model is corvus black base.
I do thank the people who answered it because I was quite confused since when they brought out the contrast they snuck in a bunch of other base paints that I never heard of
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Corvus Black is not black, but rather a very dark cool grey. I bought it by accident butbhave got some good use out of it. It's good for highlighting black without making it too grey, and if you use it as your base, you can shade it down with real black for a pretty good look.
If you go back a few pages and look at The Mountain Who Rides, I painted, all the black on that model is corvus black base.
I do thank the people who answered it because I was quite confused since when they brought out the contrast they snuck in a bunch of other base paints that I never heard of
Those were the Forge World paint range, one and all, including the transparent ones. It’s actually an amazing boost to the versatility of the range overall. Or was when they were actually new.
Corvus Black is not black, but rather a very dark cool grey. I bought it by accident butbhave got some good use out of it. It's good for highlighting black without making it too grey, and if you use it as your base, you can shade it down with real black for a pretty good look.
If you go back a few pages and look at The Mountain Who Rides, I painted, all the black on that model is corvus black base.
I do thank the people who answered it because I was quite confused since when they brought out the contrast they snuck in a bunch of other base paints that I never heard of
Those were the Forge World paint range, one and all, including the transparent ones. It’s actually an amazing boost to the versatility of the range overall. Or was when they were actually new.
I know that as when I was at the GW store doing the paint deal back in June. I saw night lords blue, grey seer, and grey knight steel which I got but they had other colors which the employee told me they were the forgeworld paints. He did push the ap which I complained about since I was doing homebrew space marines and masque of the veiled path which are not in the Ap but I did not know what I wanted to do then [it was the night lords blue that pretty much sold me on doing my homebrew/kill team as loyal night lords}
So I finally finished this guy. I took your advice and just said it's time to put it down and quit messing around with it. I can see spaces I should up the contrast, but after all of this time I need to move on.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
I've never painted stuff on sprue for sub assemblies or anything.
I've got a sprue of citadel skulls that I've primed for use on various bases. Once they're painted and clipped off do I just slap a little paint on the bald patch or do I need to hit it with primer first or anything?
I am questioning all of my paint scheme ideas now. I'm screwed.
Not really but questioning what you did is something all do
I haven't even started any of the projects.
I felt I ruined my kill team primaris when I did them night lords blue since I did not have a plan when I started I was just winging it. But it's still a process that is coming along.
Generally I have the whole time I have painted just winged it as I went since I either had no idea how it was originally done. The system GW used for years was vague as they skipped steps and did not fully explain what they did
I know it's daunting to paint minis and feel you messed up
Posts
Yea, I've been using flow improver instead of airbrush thinner. I have no idea what the difference between the two is beyond thinner generally causes paint to dry faster.
Edit: on a side note my brother is using fluorescent paint on his tyranids and I feel like I need to make a game board that is just all fluorescent and rave nonsense.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Make up your mind. Do you want a medium or a large?
WIP
Ripper https://imgur.com/a/n9A2HCj
“This post may contain adult or erotic images” :bigfrown:
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've been trying to finish this Tzaangor Shaman on a Disk done, but keep finding things that I dislike and redoing them.
Everything gets one layer of paint (may be more than one coat), and no re-dos.
To try and move some models out of my queue, I've been trying to do a bunch with just Contrast and maybe (MAYBE) a pass to touch things up or highlight something (usually small metallic things). It doesn't make the prettiest things, but I cleared out all of the Mansions of Madness minis (from the base game, at least) in short order.
The jerk answer is 'art is never completed, only abandoned'
It's all personal preference. Is it a contest entry? Is it a display piece? Is it fun to paint? does it just need to be tabletop quality? Are you nitpicking yourself or challenging yourself? You just gotta figure out your balance you can live with, imo.
Man that's not a jerk answer, slightly flippant maybe, but it cuts pretty close to the bone. You've hit the nail on the head though, it's all about personal preference and intent. It's something I actually care about a lot because learning to not obsess has been super healthy for my hobby.
A few years ago I'd been really pushing myself to improve. Trying not to sound like a jerk, (But failing) I was pretty good. Like was winning best painted at tournaments, winning online comps, getting mad likes on Facebook (The greatest of success
It killed my desire to paint for at least a year or so. You can tack this whole process on these very forums as there's a point where I just stopped posting nearly as much.
Now im very happy with my hobby but it's taken me a couple of years to get back into a good groove. The main thing that helped me was just smashing out a Bolt Action army and not caring about the results too much. I painted a bunch of green/khaki seppos and they looked fine for very little effort. Since the I've been painting Warhammer Underworlds to a decent standard and really enjoying the variety of models, but also have been smashing out heaps of models of the Song of Ice and Fire game, really just taking things to table top standard because thats all that is needed on a rank and file game, while spending more time on character models like the Mountain who I posted earlier.
Learning to be satisfied when I get a model to a certain level thats fit for purpose has been so healthy for me. I have a friend who fussed over everything and he's painted 6 models on the last 6 months and hes not really happy with them because he just would not stop fiddling and ended up making them look worse because of it.
I haven't spent ages on a model to push myself in a while and these days I think I get more happiness out of having an army or force done to a decent standard than a small number of models done to a great standard. That said I got Marvel Crisis Protocol for my birthday...
And just so this post isnt all self absorbed drivel, here's my Targaryen army. Painted over 3 weeks and you know what, they're fine. Not the best of my ability, but they look great on tabletop.
https://i.imgur.com/QFhHJ6q.jpg
It's odd to find the stuff I painted and wonder how did I do that? Back when I first started to paint there were a lot of jerks who felt they needed to do brutal critics of what you painted. Of you didn't do an edge highlight {at the time I didn't know what it was even though I asked what and was told you didn't do it.} It's been that drive to paint better for me. Warhammer TV with Duncan the robot and others really did help me relearn and get back into it.
But I like painting it's very much a stress reliever and cathartic
The attempts are cut left/right by the sash rope on his back.
On the left is white alchohol primed only, and on the right is corax white base. I then put darthoath flesh over top. 1 thick overdone coat on the right, 1 regular-ish coat on the left. Streakyness doesnt seem to appear on the left(the brush on primer usually goes streaky), but I am thinking the right side looks better overall.
Overall I thought I would get more coverage and cover over the white on the wider surface parts. It kind of looks like I just hit it with 4-5 coats of a thinned shade? I'm not sure if I want to do my army like this. I dont think I could do a second coat with this, as it really pools hard in the crevaces.
I do like the orange with white helm I might do some of the ones I have with it
What do you mean by "white alcohol primed"?
Looking at the website, Abaddon Black and Corvus Black are probably pretty close. I think Corvus is slightly more grey, maybe? Abaddon Black is still around, though, I think?
Ceramite White, which was shit, was replaced with Corax White, which is still kinda shit. Very chunky paint. I had thought my pot of Ceramite was ruined until I bought another pot of it, and it turned out to be Corax, and just as chunky. So I googled and the consensus is that the paint is just bad.
Both Corvus and Corax are the names of their spray can black / whites. So it's just them consolidating. They did this around June 2019 when they brought over a bunch of Forge World exclusive paints to the main GW lineup as they slowly shut down Forge World. For example, Iron Warriors (a Leadbelcher with nuln oil already added), Grey Knights Steel (Blue tinted Leadbelcher), etc. They also canceled the Glazes at the same time, like Guilliman Blue.
Glaze replacements from reddit / youtube:
Lamenters Yellow:
Vallejo Game Ink Yellow : Water - 1 : 2
WayWatcher Green:
Vallejo Game Ink Green : Vallejo Game Ink Yellow : Water - 3 : 2 : 10
Bloodletter Red:
Vallejo Game Ink Red : Vallejo Game Ink Yellow : Water - 4 : 1 : 10
Guilleman Blue:
Vallejo Game Ink Blue : Vallejo Game Ink Red : Water - 6 : 1 : 14
Vallejo Black is the best black I've ever used. I haven't had as much luck with their white, and their Model Color metals are kinda... meeeeh. They look like they have glitter in them. But that Vallejo Model Color Black is just... wow. I also have taken to using Black Grey (or Neutral Grey, I forget which) for Power Armor joints, as a quick dash of Nuln oil afterwards and it's like I actually intended it to look like that. (Black with nice highlights.)
I also highly suggest Badger Stynylrez air primers, which I use as brush on primer. It's basically a somewhat milky black / grey / white paint that dries hard, like a candy coat. I live in an apartment and rattlecan primers aren't an option. However, you cannot get Badger Stynylrez in winter, as if it goes below freezing it is ruined.
Other than that, look into Liquitex, they do art supplies for Canvas painting. Matte Fluid Medium is basically a milky white Lahmian Medium but they sell it for 250ml for like $9. I've also got their Matte Varnish for protecting miniatures, as well as Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder (which allows for wet blending) and Flow Aid (which is a surficant, makes your paint not stick to the brush as easy, which is very useful.) The Flow aid has instructions that read to mix something like 25:1 water:flow-aid, and since I'm working in 15ml containers, that's... difficult.
Also. Balls.
You need balls.
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Paint-Mixing-Balls/dp/B07Q23FVYR/
These things are amazing. I put one in every dropper bottle and pot I have, two in some stubborn ones like GW Metallics. They agitate the crap out of the paint as you shake the pot or dropper bottle. Basically turn them into rattle... pots.
Matte: https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-BASICS-Matte-Fluid-Medium/dp/B06Y4DWS15/
Gloss: https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-BASICS-Gloss-Fluid-Medium/dp/B06Y4DQRPR/
I do not know of any Metallic Medium other than the Vallejo stuff.
Wait, are you using it to thin paint? Dumb question by doesn't water work well enough?
Water is fine but from what I've seen medium helps keep the consistency of the paint and flow improver has medium in it so I use small amounts to thin the paints.
I have no idea if it actually makes a real difference but I have a bunch because of my airbrush.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It's an alcohol based brush on surface primer by Vallejo. I like their black, but the white goes on really streaky. I did some skin tone over a really streaky white primed model today and it came out ok. I think above or on a previous page someone said just go with their grey if you need non black, I think I am going to do that from now on.
Also use medium/thinner on metallic's and not water to thin. On other paints, you get different effects from using either, but either work and its up to what you want the final product to look like. Metallic paints generally are actual flakes and not pigment, so water doesnt thin it well.
I need to buy a bunch of smaller containers to keep these models in so in case pieces fall off I know exactly what they go to.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Simple green is dissolving the super glue?
I don't think it is. I'm more leaning toward I didn't glue it well enough and then the vibration from using an old electric toothbrush and the pressure I'm putting on some parts is knocking off arms.
I've stripped a stupid amount of models with simple green and it usually happens on a few models but besides those the glue stays real strong. I really think it is just shoddy gluing on my part.
Also, I think I found out what I can use some of these colorshift paints on. I think I'm gonna paint all the metal pieces on my Skaven with colorshift.
This is gonna be a nightmare, yay!
Edit: Wait, I don't want all the armor plates to be colorshift though. Just the smaller stuff, I still want the cloth and armor plates to be fluorescent. I'm gonna have to take a look at these models again. Maybe I can do edge highlighting with colorshift but I have no idea how colorshift would look over fluorescent paint. Time to test stuff.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yea, I always use gloss black primer when I use colorshift paint. Worst comes to worse I will tediously brush paint these details and edges with gloss black primer and then do a few layers of colorshift.
Though I am interested to see what colorshift does over other colors. It might end up looking cool/interesting.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If you go back a few pages and look at The Mountain Who Rides, I painted, all the black on that model is corvus black base.
I do thank the people who answered it because I was quite confused since when they brought out the contrast they snuck in a bunch of other base paints that I never heard of
Those were the Forge World paint range, one and all, including the transparent ones. It’s actually an amazing boost to the versatility of the range overall. Or was when they were actually new.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
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I know that as when I was at the GW store doing the paint deal back in June. I saw night lords blue, grey seer, and grey knight steel which I got but they had other colors which the employee told me they were the forgeworld paints. He did push the ap which I complained about since I was doing homebrew space marines and masque of the veiled path which are not in the Ap but I did not know what I wanted to do then [it was the night lords blue that pretty much sold me on doing my homebrew/kill team as loyal night lords}
My Let's Play Channel: https://youtube.com/channel/UC2go70QLfwGq-hW4nvUqmog
Neat
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I like to think they use brand new pots and just toss them away afterwards cause they can.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Recently I saw one of them dip directly into the medium pot after moving paint to the palette and went "man, must be nice"
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Not really but questioning what you did is something all do
I haven't even started any of the projects.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've got a sprue of citadel skulls that I've primed for use on various bases. Once they're painted and clipped off do I just slap a little paint on the bald patch or do I need to hit it with primer first or anything?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I felt I ruined my kill team primaris when I did them night lords blue since I did not have a plan when I started I was just winging it. But it's still a process that is coming along.
Generally I have the whole time I have painted just winged it as I went since I either had no idea how it was originally done. The system GW used for years was vague as they skipped steps and did not fully explain what they did
I know it's daunting to paint minis and feel you messed up