Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
each of the 3 8pin PCIE connectors is using its own dedicated cable. the end of each of the cables has a 2nd 8pin connector, but I'm not those at all.
This was going to be my first response. Any damage you can see on the card or can you smell dead electronics?
negatory. while the q-codes seem to be highly variable, the Q-led does seem to be settling on white for VGA. some google hits suggested powering off monitor and switching from DP to HDMI, but no dice. another suggestion has been to reset CMOS.
each of the 3 8pin PCIE connectors is using its own dedicated cable. the end of each of the cables has a 2nd 8pin connector, but I'm not those at all.
You're not accidentally using one of the CPU connectors right? I can't find a good high quality photo of the included cables, but it looks like it's only comes with a pair of 8pin to 6+2 connectors from their website. There's some other cables at the bottom of the photo I can't quite make out but appear to be 6 pin connectors with possible 6+2 adapters but that makes no sense so I'm not sure what they are.
I would go down to just a pair of cables and actually use the extra pinout on one of them and see if that solves your issue.
each of the 3 8pin PCIE connectors is using its own dedicated cable. the end of each of the cables has a 2nd 8pin connector, but I'm not those at all.
You're not accidentally using one of the CPU connectors right? I can't find a good high quality photo of the included cables, but it looks like it's only comes with a pair of 8pin to 6+2 connectors from their website. There's some other cables at the bottom of the photo I can't quite make out but appear to be 6 pin connectors with possible 6+2 adapters but that makes no sense so I'm not sure what they are.
I would go down to just a pair of cables and actually use the extra pinout on one of them and see if that solves your issue.
done. removed the extra cable I added, now it's using the same two cables I used for the 2080, just now using the extra 6+2 at the end of one of the cables for the 3rd 8 pin. so far no change other than this time it seems to be holding at qcode 02 (microcode loading). At one point I did see qcode D6 which translates to "no console output device found" before it cycled through other codes, settling on 02. QLED cycles through red, yellow, and white a few times before settling on white (VGA).
It never seems to do the same thing twice. DOA?
EDIT. scratch that. cycled the power again, now it's back to that repeating sequence of qcodes I mentioned in my first post. 00-0a-07-53-de-ad
53 is the only one that indicates an actual error (memory initialization). I did have the system ram overclocked to the advertised speed on the ram (3600). but resetting the CMOS which I did earlier would have reset it back to default speed, no?
each of the 3 8pin PCIE connectors is using its own dedicated cable. the end of each of the cables has a 2nd 8pin connector, but I'm not those at all.
You're not accidentally using one of the CPU connectors right? I can't find a good high quality photo of the included cables, but it looks like it's only comes with a pair of 8pin to 6+2 connectors from their website. There's some other cables at the bottom of the photo I can't quite make out but appear to be 6 pin connectors with possible 6+2 adapters but that makes no sense so I'm not sure what they are.
I would go down to just a pair of cables and actually use the extra pinout on one of them and see if that solves your issue.
done. removed the extra cable I added, now it's using the same two cables I used for the 2080, just now using the extra 6+2 at the end of one of the cables for the 3rd 8 pin. so far no change other than this time it seems to be holding at qcode 02 (microcode loading). At one point I did see qcode D6 which translates to "no console output device found" before it cycled through other codes, settling on 02. QLED cycles through red, yellow, and white a few times before settling on white (VGA).
It never seems to do the same thing twice. DOA?
Everything work fine still if you swap back in the old card?
each of the 3 8pin PCIE connectors is using its own dedicated cable. the end of each of the cables has a 2nd 8pin connector, but I'm not those at all.
You're not accidentally using one of the CPU connectors right? I can't find a good high quality photo of the included cables, but it looks like it's only comes with a pair of 8pin to 6+2 connectors from their website. There's some other cables at the bottom of the photo I can't quite make out but appear to be 6 pin connectors with possible 6+2 adapters but that makes no sense so I'm not sure what they are.
I would go down to just a pair of cables and actually use the extra pinout on one of them and see if that solves your issue.
done. removed the extra cable I added, now it's using the same two cables I used for the 2080, just now using the extra 6+2 at the end of one of the cables for the 3rd 8 pin. so far no change other than this time it seems to be holding at qcode 02 (microcode loading). At one point I did see qcode D6 which translates to "no console output device found" before it cycled through other codes, settling on 02. QLED cycles through red, yellow, and white a few times before settling on white (VGA).
It never seems to do the same thing twice. DOA?
Everything work fine still if you swap back in the old card?
yup. removed the 3090, reinstalled the 2080. system posts and boots (after clearing all the errors I got after I reset CMOS).
When I was doing my wife's computer we ran into basically the same issue. Had a brand new Corsair PSU with plenty of juice to cover the 3080, but swapping it in was just failing to POST and inconsistent like this.
Eventually ruled out as much I could and went to the store and got a second of the same PSU, swapped it and everything just worked. Was a flakey PSU and got it returned and been set since.
the only thing I can think of what I might be able to do is that since the 2080 is a borrowed GPU. I might be able to plug the 3090 into the system I got the 2080 from and see if I can get that to POST, though I don't recall what the PSU wattage was on that. I just know it was upgraded to handle the 2080. don't believe I can use my old system as a test since that is a 750 watt PSU. (3090 recommended is a 850 watt as I recall).
the only thing I can think of what I might be able to do is that since the 2080 is a borrowed GPU. I might be able to plug the 3090 into the system I got the 2080 from and see if I can get that to POST, though I don't recall what the PSU wattage was on that. I just know it was upgraded to handle the 2080. don't believe I can use my old system as a test since that is a 750 watt PSU. (3090 recommended is a 850 watt as I recall).
That's how I ruled out suspecting the GPU as much, swapped it into my own after ripping out my GPU and saying fuck it, everything worked well there. Decided either a motherboard problem or PSU problem and PSU was the easier one to do.
VoodooV, when was the last time you updated your BIOS?
Maybe try that with the 2080 and then switch to the 3090. I had lots of memory issues until I did that even though my BIOS/board supported the 5900X I got.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
+2
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I was going to suggest a BIOS update as well. Video cards do interact with your BIOS, and I've seen issues where an old BIOS caused post issues with a brand new video card.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
What are the most important things to look for in a motherboard? RAM/PCIE/USB slots? Assuming compatibility with the CPU which is obviously the most important thing.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
0
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
What are the most important things to look for in a motherboard? RAM/PCIE/USB slots? Assuming compatibility with the CPU which is obviously the most important thing.
Connectivity (USB, ethernet, sound), chipset, VRM components. Things like RAM slots and PCI-e slots are fairly standardized unless you need something very specific (e.g. 2 PCI-e x16 slots for SLI madness).
Connectivity is obvious. Get one with enough/right types of ports for your use case.
Chipset is important depending on what features you need. This is going to be dictated first by your CPU, second by what level of features you need.
VRM components may or may not be important depending on how high end of a CPU you plan to put in it.
What are the most important things to look for in a motherboard? RAM/PCIE/USB slots? Assuming compatibility with the CPU which is obviously the most important thing.
Form factor and USB ports at a given price point, mainly. Don't spend over $150 unless you overclock as a hobby or profession.
Power delivery matters if you are running a 5950X or Core i7/i9, and in that case you should go out and look for specific guidance.
a5ehren on
0
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I disagree with the don't spend more than 150 dollars if you're putting a high end CPU on it....but value is a very subjective thing.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
VoodooV, when was the last time you updated your BIOS?
Maybe try that with the 2080 and then switch to the 3090. I had lots of memory issues until I did that even though my BIOS/board supported the 5900X I got.
I've got the latest bios....as of last week ago, looks like ASUS did just release another one that's less than a month old. Not sure how much that would help for a card that's been out for almost a year. but it does say it "improves system stability" (ASUS Dark Hero mobo btw)
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
the only thing I can think of what I might be able to do is that since the 2080 is a borrowed GPU. I might be able to plug the 3090 into the system I got the 2080 from and see if I can get that to POST, though I don't recall what the PSU wattage was on that. I just know it was upgraded to handle the 2080. don't believe I can use my old system as a test since that is a 750 watt PSU. (3090 recommended is a 850 watt as I recall).
750w should be more than enough to just POST and error check. I wouldn't do anything punishing on the computer with that PSU, but 3090 lists 750 as the minimum for a I5/Ryzen 5, and it's not like your CPU is gonna be spiking your system just for the boot, so there shouldn't be much functional difference it you are just confirming the card works.
the only thing I can think of what I might be able to do is that since the 2080 is a borrowed GPU. I might be able to plug the 3090 into the system I got the 2080 from and see if I can get that to POST, though I don't recall what the PSU wattage was on that. I just know it was upgraded to handle the 2080. don't believe I can use my old system as a test since that is a 750 watt PSU. (3090 recommended is a 850 watt as I recall).
750w should be more than enough to just POST and error check. I wouldn't do anything punishing on the computer with that PSU, but 3090 lists 750 as the minimum for a I5/Ryzen 5, and it's not like your CPU is gonna be spiking your system just for the boot, so there shouldn't be much functional difference it you are just confirming the card works.
it's a 10 year old pc/motherboard. (don't recall the chipset at the moment other than Intel) 3090 is pcie gen 4, there is no compatibility issues if I were to plug in the 3090 right? it just, obviously, won't have full performance.
Yo, did something happen to PCPartPicker? Just tried going there, and it's requiring a captcha security check just to access the site (not logging into any account). Even Googling PCPP is showing some weird results (the account login page is the first result, but the rest of the results are ads and/or social media sites).
I just went there and got the standard page and nothing that you're describing. You're going to pcpartpicker.com, right?
I took this screenshot on mobile, but this is what I see on my desktop too:
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
the only thing I can think of what I might be able to do is that since the 2080 is a borrowed GPU. I might be able to plug the 3090 into the system I got the 2080 from and see if I can get that to POST, though I don't recall what the PSU wattage was on that. I just know it was upgraded to handle the 2080. don't believe I can use my old system as a test since that is a 750 watt PSU. (3090 recommended is a 850 watt as I recall).
750w should be more than enough to just POST and error check. I wouldn't do anything punishing on the computer with that PSU, but 3090 lists 750 as the minimum for a I5/Ryzen 5, and it's not like your CPU is gonna be spiking your system just for the boot, so there shouldn't be much functional difference it you are just confirming the card works.
it's a 10 year old pc/motherboard. (don't recall the chipset at the moment other than Intel) 3090 is pcie gen 4, there is no compatibility issues if I were to plug in the 3090 right? it just, obviously, won't have full performance.
PCI-e is backwards compatible all the way down. You won't notice the lost bandwidth outside of some pretty extreme workstation cases.
No special reason, it's just one of the better choices for its price point (that I've seen) There's not much different with the Phantom 4 I don't think? But I've heard the pro4 actually has a better heatsink. I don't really know enough to tell which is better, but they cost about the same and I've heard more good things about the Pro4 then the Phantom 4 from my reading and research.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
+1
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
From what I'm able to glean online, they have likely flagged your IP as a potential attacker.
I'll get these on youtube sometimes if I forget to turn off my vpn. I've also been locked out of Kroger's online shopping portal due to the geographical mismatch of what store I'm trying to shop at and where the data is coming from.
to my shock, the 3090 posted and booted into windows on the 10 year old computer with a 750w PSU.
so...either BIOS or PSU issue on the new compy. gonna update the BIOS later and Incindium on the discord told me about needing to disable CSM in the BIOS. Supposedly with it on, their 3080 wouldn't boot either and caused some beeping. I don't have any beeping issue though, but it can't hurt.
also going to re-inspect all my PSU connectors. Now...it would be preferable that each 8pin have its own connector, right? or does it just not matter if I use that extra 6+2 connector at the end of each PCIE cable? Once everything is resolved, I do plan on getting custom CableMod cables, so just using the stock cables for now.
to my shock, the 3090 posted and booted into windows on the 10 year old computer with a 750w PSU.
so...either BIOS or PSU issue on the new compy. gonna update the BIOS later and Incindium on the discord told me about needing to disable CSM in the BIOS. Supposedly with it on, their 3080 wouldn't boot either and caused some beeping. I don't have any beeping issue though, but it can't hurt.
also going to re-inspect all my PSU connectors. Now...it would be preferable that each 8pin have its own connector, right? or does it just not matter if I use that extra 6+2 connector at the end of each PCIE cable? Once everything is resolved, I do plan on getting custom CableMod cables, so just using the stock cables for now.
CSM didn't actually cause mine to not post but it did cause some beep code errors in the post process with it on with my 3080 that went away after it was disabled. It's not that much a stretch that it could stop it from posting and easy enough to test to be sure.
to my shock, the 3090 posted and booted into windows on the 10 year old computer with a 750w PSU.
so...either BIOS or PSU issue on the new compy. gonna update the BIOS later and Incindium on the discord told me about needing to disable CSM in the BIOS. Supposedly with it on, their 3080 wouldn't boot either and caused some beeping. I don't have any beeping issue though, but it can't hurt.
also going to re-inspect all my PSU connectors. Now...it would be preferable that each 8pin have its own connector, right? or does it just not matter if I use that extra 6+2 connector at the end of each PCIE cable? Once everything is resolved, I do plan on getting custom CableMod cables, so just using the stock cables for now.
Honestly, I would go with the minimum number of cables to start for trouble shooting, and rotate through them, and the sockets you plug them into. Could be one bad cable, or one bad socket, the fewer variables you have when testing, the easier it is to figure out exactly which one is jank. But that's me and I don't mind being incredibly tedious with diagnosing things.
to my shock, the 3090 posted and booted into windows on the 10 year old computer with a 750w PSU.
so...either BIOS or PSU issue on the new compy. gonna update the BIOS later and Incindium on the discord told me about needing to disable CSM in the BIOS. Supposedly with it on, their 3080 wouldn't boot either and caused some beeping. I don't have any beeping issue though, but it can't hurt.
also going to re-inspect all my PSU connectors. Now...it would be preferable that each 8pin have its own connector, right? or does it just not matter if I use that extra 6+2 connector at the end of each PCIE cable? Once everything is resolved, I do plan on getting custom CableMod cables, so just using the stock cables for now.
Honestly, I would go with the minimum number of cables to start for trouble shooting, and rotate through them, and the sockets you plug them into. Could be one bad cable, or one bad socket, the fewer variables you have when testing, the easier it is to figure out exactly which one is jank. But that's me and I don't mind being incredibly tedious with diagnosing things.
Right, the way you hook up the cables doesn't matter, until it does. :rotate: Whatever works is fine, if it doesn't work in some setup then it's likely a cable/PSU issue.
If you have another PSU or can front for one, I would just hook everything up to a PSU and see if it just boots fine.
Posts
It's a little dated but try this
This was going to be my first response. Any damage you can see on the card or can you smell dead electronics?
(like so?)
negatory. while the q-codes seem to be highly variable, the Q-led does seem to be settling on white for VGA. some google hits suggested powering off monitor and switching from DP to HDMI, but no dice. another suggestion has been to reset CMOS.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
You're not accidentally using one of the CPU connectors right? I can't find a good high quality photo of the included cables, but it looks like it's only comes with a pair of 8pin to 6+2 connectors from their website. There's some other cables at the bottom of the photo I can't quite make out but appear to be 6 pin connectors with possible 6+2 adapters but that makes no sense so I'm not sure what they are.
I would go down to just a pair of cables and actually use the extra pinout on one of them and see if that solves your issue.
done. removed the extra cable I added, now it's using the same two cables I used for the 2080, just now using the extra 6+2 at the end of one of the cables for the 3rd 8 pin. so far no change other than this time it seems to be holding at qcode 02 (microcode loading). At one point I did see qcode D6 which translates to "no console output device found" before it cycled through other codes, settling on 02. QLED cycles through red, yellow, and white a few times before settling on white (VGA).
It never seems to do the same thing twice. DOA?
EDIT. scratch that. cycled the power again, now it's back to that repeating sequence of qcodes I mentioned in my first post. 00-0a-07-53-de-ad
53 is the only one that indicates an actual error (memory initialization). I did have the system ram overclocked to the advertised speed on the ram (3600). but resetting the CMOS which I did earlier would have reset it back to default speed, no?
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Everything work fine still if you swap back in the old card?
yup. removed the 3090, reinstalled the 2080. system posts and boots (after clearing all the errors I got after I reset CMOS).
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Eventually ruled out as much I could and went to the store and got a second of the same PSU, swapped it and everything just worked. Was a flakey PSU and got it returned and been set since.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
That's how I ruled out suspecting the GPU as much, swapped it into my own after ripping out my GPU and saying fuck it, everything worked well there. Decided either a motherboard problem or PSU problem and PSU was the easier one to do.
Maybe try that with the 2080 and then switch to the 3090. I had lots of memory issues until I did that even though my BIOS/board supported the 5900X I got.
Connectivity (USB, ethernet, sound), chipset, VRM components. Things like RAM slots and PCI-e slots are fairly standardized unless you need something very specific (e.g. 2 PCI-e x16 slots for SLI madness).
Connectivity is obvious. Get one with enough/right types of ports for your use case.
Chipset is important depending on what features you need. This is going to be dictated first by your CPU, second by what level of features you need.
VRM components may or may not be important depending on how high end of a CPU you plan to put in it.
Form factor and USB ports at a given price point, mainly. Don't spend over $150 unless you overclock as a hobby or profession.
Power delivery matters if you are running a 5950X or Core i7/i9, and in that case you should go out and look for specific guidance.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wb7v6h/asrock-b450-steel-legend-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-steel-legend
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7R7p99/gigabyte-a520m-ds3h-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-ga-a520m-ds3h
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TG9tt6/asrock-b550m-phantom-gaming-4-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-phantom-gaming-4
If you're getting a 5800X you'll want a B550 or X570 board.
I've got the latest bios....as of last week ago, looks like ASUS did just release another one that's less than a month old. Not sure how much that would help for a card that's been out for almost a year. but it does say it "improves system stability" (ASUS Dark Hero mobo btw)
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/g94BD3/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-37-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000065box
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NT7p99/asrock-b550m-pro4-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-pro4
750w should be more than enough to just POST and error check. I wouldn't do anything punishing on the computer with that PSU, but 3090 lists 750 as the minimum for a I5/Ryzen 5, and it's not like your CPU is gonna be spiking your system just for the boot, so there shouldn't be much functional difference it you are just confirming the card works.
it's a 10 year old pc/motherboard. (don't recall the chipset at the moment other than Intel) 3090 is pcie gen 4, there is no compatibility issues if I were to plug in the 3090 right? it just, obviously, won't have full performance.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
I took this screenshot on mobile, but this is what I see on my desktop too:
As long as this doesn’t appear on every single website you try to access (i.e. browser redirect malware) it should be safe
PCI-e is backwards compatible all the way down. You won't notice the lost bandwidth outside of some pretty extreme workstation cases.
So that'd be a "Yes, something changed with PCPP, but it's fine." Cool...was getting a little nervous that the site got spoofed or something.
Why micro-ATX?
No special reason, it's just one of the better choices for its price point (that I've seen) There's not much different with the Phantom 4 I don't think? But I've heard the pro4 actually has a better heatsink. I don't really know enough to tell which is better, but they cost about the same and I've heard more good things about the Pro4 then the Phantom 4 from my reading and research.
I'll get these on youtube sometimes if I forget to turn off my vpn. I've also been locked out of Kroger's online shopping portal due to the geographical mismatch of what store I'm trying to shop at and where the data is coming from.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
So could be that you're just a powerusernerd!
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
B&H does that when I open up a bunch of pages because I want to compare products
and then throttles me on top of it so I start having to answer a damned captcha for every single navigation, which is rather obnoxious
so...either BIOS or PSU issue on the new compy. gonna update the BIOS later and Incindium on the discord told me about needing to disable CSM in the BIOS. Supposedly with it on, their 3080 wouldn't boot either and caused some beeping. I don't have any beeping issue though, but it can't hurt.
also going to re-inspect all my PSU connectors. Now...it would be preferable that each 8pin have its own connector, right? or does it just not matter if I use that extra 6+2 connector at the end of each PCIE cable? Once everything is resolved, I do plan on getting custom CableMod cables, so just using the stock cables for now.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
CSM didn't actually cause mine to not post but it did cause some beep code errors in the post process with it on with my 3080 that went away after it was disabled. It's not that much a stretch that it could stop it from posting and easy enough to test to be sure.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Honestly, I would go with the minimum number of cables to start for trouble shooting, and rotate through them, and the sockets you plug them into. Could be one bad cable, or one bad socket, the fewer variables you have when testing, the easier it is to figure out exactly which one is jank. But that's me and I don't mind being incredibly tedious with diagnosing things.
I'm on the fence on whether to grab one or wait it out for the 3080.
From what I can tell there isn't much of a performance gap from the 3080. Maybe 10%
I see quite a few 3090's as well, but is there much of a difference at all between a Ti and a 3090?
Benchmark websites show a 1-3% difference, but I see some for only a couple hundred more.
Right, the way you hook up the cables doesn't matter, until it does. :rotate: Whatever works is fine, if it doesn't work in some setup then it's likely a cable/PSU issue.
If you have another PSU or can front for one, I would just hook everything up to a PSU and see if it just boots fine.