An electrical ballast is a device placed in series with a load to limit the amount of current in an electrical circuit.
A familiar and widely used example is the inductive ballast used in fluorescent lamps to limit the current through the tube, which would otherwise rise to a destructive level due to the negative differential resistance of the tube's voltage-current characteristic.
Ballasts vary greatly in complexity. They may be as simple as a resistor, inductor, or capacitor (or a combination of these) wired in series with the lamp; or as complex as the electronic ballasts used in compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs).
There should be some sort of marking on the packaging stating if they have ballast or not. If they don't say, assume they aren't unless you read otherwise somewhere else.
All screw-in style LED bulbs that you can reasonably buy at the store are self-ballasted. There are other kinds, but you're not going to buy them accidentally.
All screw-in style LED bulbs that you can reasonably buy at the store are self-ballasted. There are other kinds, but you're not going to buy them accidentally.
Yeah I've never ran into an LED bulb that fit in a normal socket of the various standard sizes that wasn't dead simple screw in and works.
I've had one or two DOA bulbs, but the normal bulbs work in regular simple lightbulb sockets.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
edited September 2023
Ha, it was actually I asking the question!
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
Anyone have suggestions for good garage metal shelves? Looking online, it seems all the box store ones are all made by a company called Edsal? And that post pandemic, they've lowered the gauge from 16 to 18 causing a lot more issues out of the box and overall.
Anyone have suggestions for good garage metal shelves? Looking online, it seems all the box store ones are all made by a company called Edsal? And that post pandemic, they've lowered the gauge from 16 to 18 causing a lot more issues out of the box and overall.
We've always gone with the steel-wire-lookong ones from Costco with no problems. Check Business Costco as well for different options. We were less impressed by the non-wire variety (solid shelves) and wouldn't recommend.
If you don't need metal for aesthetics, you can make strong shelves pretty easily with 2x4s, pocket screws, and 1/2" plywood, which is what I do but I will admit I didn't bother making them pretty.
Anyone have suggestions for good garage metal shelves? Looking online, it seems all the box store ones are all made by a company called Edsal? And that post pandemic, they've lowered the gauge from 16 to 18 causing a lot more issues out of the box and overall.
I used some "Xtreme Garage" branded shelving parts from Menards. Besides pre-sized units, they also sell the side posts and rails as individual parts in a variety of height, width, and length so I could do a custom layout. I still plan on using them as a base for a workbench as well. Plus I store heavy car parts on them and the posts/rails are heavy welded steel so each shelf has a 2000 lb capacity.
The Edsal units are stamped steel and list a 1000 lb capacity which are certainly adequate for normal storage. But those didn't have the variety of separate parts I needed for the project I did.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
I doubt I'd need a ton of weight, it's mostly paint, holiday stuff. More concerned with the higher quantity of reviews talking about busted welds or bend poles. Maybe I'll just roll the dice with the Gladiator stuff. But I'll need to double check that my car could return it.
EDIT: Or I could go with the McMaster-Carr stuff, it's 2x the cost but I'm sure it's much higher quality.
Yeah they’re very much a commercial/business focused supply company and the prices reflect that. Though they also have good customer service, really fast shipping, and the only things I’ve ever had a problem with from them were my fault for measuring incorrectly.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
I've got several HDX metal shelves and they've been solid.
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
So, I was making tea this morning and felt something wet at my feet. Most of the water going down the drain was just flowing out from under the sink. Turns out my garbage dispsal had shit the bed. It jammed up the other day and I had to break out the wrench to get it going again. I guess that broke a seal because water was flowing out from every crack.
Went to lowes over my lunch break and bought a new one. They make em so easy to install. Just used the old mounting hardware in the sink because the new one uses the same type. Had the thing swapped out in an hour.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
Another one of those "it seems like it's minor, but it's probably a pain in the ass to fix" deals: this house has two interior doors that don't close easily. You have to really force them closed to latch properly. One of them is in worse shape than the other. With that one in particular, if I push it closed without forcing it to latch, the top is flush with the door jamb, but the bottom sticks out. At the very bottom it sticks out about half an inch.
Here's a crummy video I took showing how much it sticks out from the top to the bottom: https://imgur.com/GZjwN0g
Another one of those "it seems like it's minor, but it's probably a pain in the ass to fix" deals: this house has two interior doors that don't close easily. You have to really force them closed to latch properly. One of them is in worse shape than the other. With that one in particular, if I push it closed without forcing it to latch, the top is flush with the door jamb, but the bottom sticks out. At the very bottom it sticks out about half an inch.
Here's a crummy video I took showing how much it sticks out from the top to the bottom: https://imgur.com/GZjwN0g
You might be able to just shim the hinges to tighten up the fitment. If that's not working you may have to remove the molding and re-shim the door frame.
You sometimes can fix a small misalignment in a doorframe by replacing one or two hinge screws at the top or bottom with a longer screw. If the screw is long enough to bite into the 2x4 past the door frame and pulls tight it can be an easy alternative to removing molding and re-shimming.
It won't always work or fix a bad misalignment, but if you only need a few millimeters it can be enough.
You sometimes can fix a small misalignment in a doorframe by replacing one or two hinge screws at the top or bottom with a longer screw. If the screw is long enough to bite into the 2x4 past the door frame and pulls tight it can be an easy alternative to removing molding and re-shimming.
It won't always work or fix a bad misalignment, but if you only need a few millimeters it can be enough.
This isn't a small misalignment though. The door is off by an inch or more. Which I'd say is a warped door instead of a mounting issue. Taking the door and handles off and laying it on a flat floor would show you how much it's warped/twisted.
You can try to fix a warped door by laying it on some sawhorses with the bowed hump facing up and putting a good amount of weight on it, say 50 lbs, and wait a day or more to see how much it straightens out. But being that bad, you'd likely need to lay wet towels over the hump and put the weight over the towels. The moisture will make the wood softer, but it could damage the paint as well. Obviously the last option is to replace the door.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
I didn't know there was a difference, learn something new.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
I didn't know there was a difference, learn something new.
As far as I can tell it's just a dimmer switch
Socket in question
Yeah, that's a dimmer. Get an LED bulb that's actually compatible with dimmers, and you'll be fine.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Sounds like a bit of a hack job since the float sensor is supposed to be on the pan with the actual drain. Regardless, if you don't have a shop vac, can you at least run some tubing from the pan to a lower point to act as a siphon into a bucket? It doesn't matter if the siphon tube needs to go up and over stuff, just that the exit is lower than the entrance. If you don't want to risk sucking nasty water into your mouth, you could use a regular vacuum to prime the siphon and just get the water flowing.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Another way to start the siphon is to fill the hose with water beforehand.
Edit to clarify: you stop the end of the hose with your thumb and then unstop and lower it quickly into the bucket in one flourish and it'll usually keep going.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Sounds like a bit of a hack job since the float sensor is supposed to be on the pan with the actual drain. Regardless, if you don't have a shop vac, can you at least run some tubing from the pan to a lower point to act as a siphon into a bucket? It doesn't matter if the siphon tube needs to go up and over stuff, just that the exit is lower than the entrance. If you don't want to risk sucking nasty water into your mouth, you could use a regular vacuum to prime the siphon and just get the water flowing.
Rural Georgia, so yeah. But apparently it's up to code?
Siphon was my next go to, we've got a carpet cleaner that could do it but I don't want to lug it up the attic ladder. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an obvious answer.
You sometimes can fix a small misalignment in a doorframe by replacing one or two hinge screws at the top or bottom with a longer screw. If the screw is long enough to bite into the 2x4 past the door frame and pulls tight it can be an easy alternative to removing molding and re-shimming.
It won't always work or fix a bad misalignment, but if you only need a few millimeters it can be enough.
I've had good luck with this in the past, but over this past weekend had very bad luck: The 3" screw I was putting in came to a stop about halfway in. Because I'm a fucking genius, I simply braced myself against the opposite side of the frame and put a ton of force straight into the drill to drill-push it in. That got me another inch until I introduced half a degree of offset force and the screw snapped off, leaving the 2.5" of stub buried out of pliers' reach in the frame. I eventually managed to, basically, destroy enough of the screw using a metal-rated drill bit to make a recovery so I could at least get the original screw back in.
I was able to fix my specific problem a different way, though. The door kept swinging closed. My original plan there was to force the top hinge a little deeper so the door would straighten up. What ended up working was taking out the top hinge pin, hitting it with a hammer until it was bent, then forcing it back into the hinge. This creates extra friction and now the door doesn't swing shut.
I got that from one of the old-man-teaches YouTubes, with a grandpa-looking guy. I love those videos.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
I didn't know there was a difference, learn something new.
As far as I can tell it's just a dimmer switch
Socket in question
Yeah, that's a dimmer. Get an LED bulb that's actually compatible with dimmers, and you'll be fine.
Bah, they're supposed to be dimmable but I guess not. Time to try a different brand I guess. Appreciate the help
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
I didn't know there was a difference, learn something new.
As far as I can tell it's just a dimmer switch
Socket in question
Yeah, that's a dimmer. Get an LED bulb that's actually compatible with dimmers, and you'll be fine.
Bah, they're supposed to be dimmable but I guess not. Time to try a different brand I guess. Appreciate the help
Speaking from experience, regular dimmer switches don't work well with ANY LED bulbs. I've discovered a rather bizarre behavior in a lot of non-smart LED bulbs. When they're at 100% illumination, they lose the ability to dim. When the voltage gets too low, they just turn off. If you start them out at less than full, they're capable of a super fine dimming control. But the moment they hit full, they stay at full. I've experienced this with a dozen different brands of bulbs too.
A few months ago I installed a smart dimmer in my bedroom. I went through 3 switches and literally 12 different brand of bulbs before I figured it out.
The only LEDs I have on dimmers are wafer lights installed in two ceilings. I specifically found switches that were listed as compatible with those units, because these things would be a huge pain to get to if I ended up needing to change them.
LEDs on dimmers often do weird things, I always assumed that they used local PWMs to work and somehow converted the lowered voltage into duty cycle.
I've had pretty good luck with our LED recessed lighting. At the lowest setting, they have a weird glow, but as long as you have it just above that, it dims our cans really well.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Sounds like a bit of a hack job since the float sensor is supposed to be on the pan with the actual drain. Regardless, if you don't have a shop vac, can you at least run some tubing from the pan to a lower point to act as a siphon into a bucket? It doesn't matter if the siphon tube needs to go up and over stuff, just that the exit is lower than the entrance. If you don't want to risk sucking nasty water into your mouth, you could use a regular vacuum to prime the siphon and just get the water flowing.
Rural Georgia, so yeah. But apparently it's up to code?
Siphon was my next go to, we've got a carpet cleaner that could do it but I don't want to lug it up the attic ladder. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an obvious answer.
Update: siphon worked! AC water tastes kinda nasty though.
Anyone got ideas on emptying the drain pan on an HVAC in the attic? My shop vac shit the bed recently, and I'd much rather not spend the money at the moment.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Sounds like a bit of a hack job since the float sensor is supposed to be on the pan with the actual drain. Regardless, if you don't have a shop vac, can you at least run some tubing from the pan to a lower point to act as a siphon into a bucket? It doesn't matter if the siphon tube needs to go up and over stuff, just that the exit is lower than the entrance. If you don't want to risk sucking nasty water into your mouth, you could use a regular vacuum to prime the siphon and just get the water flowing.
Rural Georgia, so yeah. But apparently it's up to code?
Siphon was my next go to, we've got a carpet cleaner that could do it but I don't want to lug it up the attic ladder. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an obvious answer.
Update: siphon worked! AC water tastes kinda nasty though.
Time to imbibe your ethanol of choice to be sure you don't mildew!
Posts
There should be some sort of marking on the packaging stating if they have ballast or not. If they don't say, assume they aren't unless you read otherwise somewhere else.
Yeah I've never ran into an LED bulb that fit in a normal socket of the various standard sizes that wasn't dead simple screw in and works.
I've had one or two DOA bulbs, but the normal bulbs work in regular simple lightbulb sockets.
Thanks I definitely associated ballasts more with tube/incandescent lights.
For Carpy, I'd probably stick with the lower wattage. Are the lamps 3-way?
We've always gone with the steel-wire-lookong ones from Costco with no problems. Check Business Costco as well for different options. We were less impressed by the non-wire variety (solid shelves) and wouldn't recommend.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gladiator-4-Tier-Welded-Steel-Garage-Storage-Shelving-Unit-60-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-18-in-D-GARS604TEG/
They have them at Costco as well
I used some "Xtreme Garage" branded shelving parts from Menards. Besides pre-sized units, they also sell the side posts and rails as individual parts in a variety of height, width, and length so I could do a custom layout. I still plan on using them as a base for a workbench as well. Plus I store heavy car parts on them and the posts/rails are heavy welded steel so each shelf has a 2000 lb capacity.
The Edsal units are stamped steel and list a 1000 lb capacity which are certainly adequate for normal storage. But those didn't have the variety of separate parts I needed for the project I did.
They've got a single touch pad that cycles through 3 brightness settings and then turns off.
The 100w equivalents hit all three fine.
The 60s will turn on but are incredibly dim, I didn't even realize they were on until I looked at the bulb, and hitting the touch pad again makes them flash bright and turn off
EDIT: Or I could go with the McMaster-Carr stuff, it's 2x the cost but I'm sure it's much higher quality.
LED bulbs in traditional dimmers are just a straight crapshoot, for something like those three-brightness lamps I'm not surprised you're getting bad results. Like, dimmer switches designed with LEDs in mind usually have a way to calibrate the voltage/duty cycle ranges to adjust for the specific bulb.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-5-Tier-Steel-Wire-Shelving-Unit-in-Black-36-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-16-in-D-21656PS-1/203846576
May have been crapified since my last one though.
Went to lowes over my lunch break and bought a new one. They make em so easy to install. Just used the old mounting hardware in the sink because the new one uses the same type. Had the thing swapped out in an hour.
The question is if this is a dimmer switch, or a three-way switch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp
This has a picture of what a 3-way lamp socket looks like. Note the off-center pin. By looking at your lamp, you should be able to determine if what you have is a dimmer circuit or a 3-way lamp circuit. A 3-way lamp means the contacts on the bottom of your bulb are touching something they shouldn't be. A dimmer circuit just means that your bulb isn't compatible with dimmer switches. In either case, you can get a bulb that will work with the lamp, you just need to figure out what you're working with.
Here's a crummy video I took showing how much it sticks out from the top to the bottom: https://imgur.com/GZjwN0g
My Backloggery
You might be able to just shim the hinges to tighten up the fitment. If that's not working you may have to remove the molding and re-shim the door frame.
It won't always work or fix a bad misalignment, but if you only need a few millimeters it can be enough.
This isn't a small misalignment though. The door is off by an inch or more. Which I'd say is a warped door instead of a mounting issue. Taking the door and handles off and laying it on a flat floor would show you how much it's warped/twisted.
You can try to fix a warped door by laying it on some sawhorses with the bowed hump facing up and putting a good amount of weight on it, say 50 lbs, and wait a day or more to see how much it straightens out. But being that bad, you'd likely need to lay wet towels over the hump and put the weight over the towels. The moisture will make the wood softer, but it could damage the paint as well. Obviously the last option is to replace the door.
I didn't know there was a difference, learn something new.
As far as I can tell it's just a dimmer switch
Socket in question
Yeah, that's a dimmer. Get an LED bulb that's actually compatible with dimmers, and you'll be fine.
Drain line is already unclogged, I hit it with a hose for half a second and watched it dump like a gallon of water. Emptying the drain pan should reset the float switch, correct?
If the pan's drain is working fine then the remaining water level should not trigger the float switch further. However, the float switch does need to be reset before things will work. Turn off the power to the unit, locate your float switch and press its Reset button. It may be under a cover you have to remove. Or if the unit has a control panel, the Reset button may be there. Some are self-resetting, but you may need to unscrew the bottom, empty the water out of the float, and screw it back together.
Unfortunately, the emergency drain pan under the unit does not have a drain attached, just a float switch attached to the pan.
Sounds like a bit of a hack job since the float sensor is supposed to be on the pan with the actual drain. Regardless, if you don't have a shop vac, can you at least run some tubing from the pan to a lower point to act as a siphon into a bucket? It doesn't matter if the siphon tube needs to go up and over stuff, just that the exit is lower than the entrance. If you don't want to risk sucking nasty water into your mouth, you could use a regular vacuum to prime the siphon and just get the water flowing.
Edit to clarify: you stop the end of the hose with your thumb and then unstop and lower it quickly into the bucket in one flourish and it'll usually keep going.
Rural Georgia, so yeah. But apparently it's up to code?
Siphon was my next go to, we've got a carpet cleaner that could do it but I don't want to lug it up the attic ladder. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an obvious answer.
I've had good luck with this in the past, but over this past weekend had very bad luck: The 3" screw I was putting in came to a stop about halfway in. Because I'm a fucking genius, I simply braced myself against the opposite side of the frame and put a ton of force straight into the drill to drill-push it in. That got me another inch until I introduced half a degree of offset force and the screw snapped off, leaving the 2.5" of stub buried out of pliers' reach in the frame. I eventually managed to, basically, destroy enough of the screw using a metal-rated drill bit to make a recovery so I could at least get the original screw back in.
I was able to fix my specific problem a different way, though. The door kept swinging closed. My original plan there was to force the top hinge a little deeper so the door would straighten up. What ended up working was taking out the top hinge pin, hitting it with a hammer until it was bent, then forcing it back into the hinge. This creates extra friction and now the door doesn't swing shut.
I got that from one of the old-man-teaches YouTubes, with a grandpa-looking guy. I love those videos.
Bah, they're supposed to be dimmable but I guess not. Time to try a different brand I guess. Appreciate the help
Speaking from experience, regular dimmer switches don't work well with ANY LED bulbs. I've discovered a rather bizarre behavior in a lot of non-smart LED bulbs. When they're at 100% illumination, they lose the ability to dim. When the voltage gets too low, they just turn off. If you start them out at less than full, they're capable of a super fine dimming control. But the moment they hit full, they stay at full. I've experienced this with a dozen different brands of bulbs too.
A few months ago I installed a smart dimmer in my bedroom. I went through 3 switches and literally 12 different brand of bulbs before I figured it out.
LEDs on dimmers often do weird things, I always assumed that they used local PWMs to work and somehow converted the lowered voltage into duty cycle.
Update: siphon worked! AC water tastes kinda nasty though.
Time to imbibe your ethanol of choice to be sure you don't mildew!
I was joking, I actually saw it coming down the tube. That's why I went and bought some vinyl tubing instead using the hose like my wife suggested.
Man, that was a LOT of water though. The drain seems to be working fine now, and the house has gone from 86 to 78 in the last couple hours.