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On credit and its improvement

OrganichuOrganichu poopspeesRegistered User regular
edited June 2008 in Help / Advice Forum
In my "youth" (pretty much the first year or so after my eighteenth birthday) I was intensely irresponsible. I defaulted on a new cell phone contract, maxed out three credit cards (thankfully right after getting them while they still had relatively small credit limits), etc. I've heard that getting frequent credit checks is detrimental to your numerical score, and so I wouldn't like to continually recheck it and recheck it as I pay down my debt.

So, bottom line: once I've paid off my extant debt and all the debt in collections, and once I confirm from each of the collections agencies that they've submitted proof of my payment to the credit bureau... how long until my credit score is 'updated'? I've heard checking your report is bad for your score so I don't just want a new report each week.

Part two of the question: how long with reasonable behavior (a couple of utility bills, responsible usage of a credit card, no more unpaid bills, etc.) until my score is reasonably similar to the average person capable of getting a car note, a mortgage, passing a credit check for an apartment, getting a higher credit card limit, etc.? I know it'll be a really long time if ever before I can hope to get great enough credit to receive fantastically low rates on any of these things, but I'd like to know how long, or an approximation of how long, after my settling with all collections agencies until I am considered a 'normal' guy again.

Thanks all!

Organichu on

Posts

  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    I believe there are different type of credit checks. There are "Hard Pulls" which have more information and negatively affect your score, slightly, and there are "Soft Pulls" which are just a brief summary and don't affect your score at all. Hard pulls are done when you're applying for a loan or something else where your overall credit picture is important. Soft pulls are done much more often than you'd probably imagine.

    On my credit card's website there's a thing that shows me my credit score every month from Trans Union and also for the previous 6 months or so. There's also a little thing that shows how doing different behaivor changes a typical credit score. Things like paying more than the minimum balance help. Things like paying your complete balance off also help. I'm sure there's these hypothetical simulators online somewhere. Things like opening and closing accounts frequently negatively impact your score.

    If you're being responsible and paying off your debts at a decent rate your score will rise. How much is all a matter of your personal circumstances.

    That all being said, your credit score kind of by definition can't really change more often than once a month or so, and can't change all that much per month. So just keep doing what you're doing and it'll all work out.

    Also, you can get one free credit report per year from each of the three credit agencies. So if you want get one every four months to see how you're doing. This is a pretty good idea anyway as it lets you keep tabs on your credit.

    Cauld on
  • SzechuanosaurusSzechuanosaurus Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited June 2008
    Why do some types of credit check negatively affect your score?

    Szechuanosaurus on
  • DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    If you do a credit check on yourself it should not be affecting your credit score as far as I know. If numerous companies are doing credit checks on you at your request it can negatively impact your score because it means you are likely trying to get a bunch of credit. These are the hard pulls that Cauld mentions above. If another company is checking your credit on their own (the soft pulls he mentions) it doesn't/shouldn't affect your score.

    Edit: To Szechuanosaurus: because if a company is doing a credit check for you, it is likely from a loan application, credit card application, etc that you are trying to open. Trying to open/apply for a bunch of these at once negatively impacts your score because you are trying to get a bunch of credit. I think it's worse if you're declined and repeatedly try to get credit from various sources. It basically means you're more of a risk to a credit company.

    Daenris on
  • Caliban42Caliban42 Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    The best advice is to go somewhere that focuses on this type of discussion. I've been reading Credit Boards and found a ton of useful info.

    However, if you don't want to go there for some reason, then all I can say is that there is no quick fix. Just paying off the debts won't do anything to make your score rise, really. The problem is that you'll still have the collection on your account and that weighs heavily against you. For the purposes of scores, a paid collection is only a little better than an unpaid collection. The same problem applies for having late payments and things like that. So basically, just paying everything off and hoping for the best isn't going to do a whole lot. I'm not advocating not paying your debts, by the way, just saying that you now that you're in a bind you've got to be smart about it. You can negotiate with the collection agencies to remove their name from your report, which is what would help your score. There are other things that you can do to help to get your score up, but frankly it is a lot more than could be explained here. Plus, I'm far from an expert, I'm just a guy in a similiar situation that's been doing a lot of research the last few weeks.

    Also, you can check your credit report as often as you want. A lot of people are signed up with various credit monitoring services that allow you to pull your report every 24 hours if you want. These are soft pulls and since they come from you, they don't count against you. You can also get your credit report for free once a year, which is always a good idea just to make sure there aren't any inaccuracies.

    You should also be aware that the scores that are generated on the credit monitoring sites are just estimates and can be wildly inaccurate. The only way to check your actual FICO score is from the Fair Isaacs Company at myfico.com. Some people say that their estimated scores are within a couple points of their actual scores, but for some people it can be around 100 points off.

    Caliban42 on
  • UsagiUsagi Nah Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    The other thing to keep in mind is that certain types of credit 'Oop'ses stay on your credit report for quite a while. Bankruptcies and the like are very long term, 30-, 60- and 90-day late payments are seven years, and I think its the same length for anything that went to collections (though this may vary depending on what state you live in). I went through a bunch of this crap and found the Motley Fool to be very helpful with guidance and helpful tips I hadn't thought about. You have to sign up for some of the content, but it's absolutely worth it.

    My credit is at this point is back to 'good to excellent', but I still check all three credit reports twice a year. I'd suggest you do that at a minimum to make sure they aren't screwing you by keeping old accounts open - it's much easier to fix an error right away rather than wait until next year.

    Usagi on
  • Caliban42Caliban42 Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Usagi wrote: »
    The other thing to keep in mind is that certain types of credit 'Oop'ses stay on your credit report for quite a while. Bankruptcies and the like are very long term, 30-, 60- and 90-day late payments are seven years, and I think its the same length for anything that went to collections (though this may vary depending on what state you live in).

    Just to clarify, bankruptcies are not legally allowed to stay on a credit report for longer than 10 years while things like collections, charge offs, and lates are not allowed to stay on longer than 7. However, there is no law that says that they must stay on there that entire length of time, that is entirely up to the credit reporting agencies and whomever is furnishing them the data, which is why you can negotiate to get some things removed if the company is so inclined.

    Caliban42 on
  • MagicPrimeMagicPrime FiresideWizard Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    An easy way to build your credit is to put stuff on it you have the money for and pay it off immediately. Anytime my wife and I make a big purchase we make sure we have the cash on hand or in the bank, then as soon as we get the Credit card bill we pay the full amount. We've been doing this a couple years now and our credit company has increased our credit limit nearly triple of what it was when we started.

    You can also increase your credit score by getting a second credit card and not putting anything on it. But you can weight out the risks vs. benefits about that yourself.

    MagicPrime on
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  • OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Thanks a lot guys.

    One of my credit cards is now on its last payment (dated for July 5th). I spoke with a representative and he told me that 21 days after the last payment is posted, I should write a letter requesting a "settled in full" acknowledgment.

    Organichu on
  • k1DBLITZk1DBLITZ Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Also keep in mind that negative remarks stay on your credit report for 7 years.

    k1DBLITZ on
  • SeptusSeptus Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    I've got a totally different problem with credit, in that I have basically no history. For years I was living in my brother's old apartment and had left all the bills in his name, and I never got a credit card in college when they were being handed out like candy. So now(I've not actually tried in a year or so, I'm finally paying everything under my own name) I can't get a credit to start building it.

    Unfortunately, I think the only real option available to me is to get a secured credit card.

    Septus on
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  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Septus wrote: »
    I've got a totally different problem with credit, in that I have basically no history. For years I was living in my brother's old apartment and had left all the bills in his name, and I never got a credit card in college when they were being handed out like candy. So now(I've not actually tried in a year or so, I'm finally paying everything under my own name) I can't get a credit to start building it.

    Unfortunately, I think the only real option available to me is to get a secured credit card.

    You could do that. If you bank at a credit union you could ask for their card. Or get a store credit card at some store you frequent.

    Cauld on
  • OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Guys I know the answer to this question is almost certainly "it depends" and "no way to tell until it happens"... but is there any way to figure from my credit rating "my chances"? Like, obviously I know 'xxx-yyy range is bad', 'yyy-zzz is good', 'zzz-aaa is excellent' etc. but is there a scale out there or a personalized summary or something that'll give me an idea of just what each means?

    Let's say for example that my score is 650... is there a method of quantifying that? Like, "this score is generally 'ok' for credit checks on apartments, and might get you X rate on a carloan without a cosigner", etc. ?

    Organichu on
  • DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Hmm... I'm not aware of anything available that's going to take a score and tell you that. I've seen a few in the past that just basically ask for your "estimated credit" in the form of like an excellent/good/fair/bad way, which is probably about as good as you can get. Anytime you actually apply for anything they'll just pull your credit report/score to make that determination.

    The best you can probably do is just get a range like you mention, which will let you know whether you're ok, or if you're going to have problems/get bad rates.

    Daenris on
  • JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Organichu wrote: »
    Guys I know the answer to this question is almost certainly "it depends" and "no way to tell until it happens"... but is there any way to figure from my credit rating "my chances"? Like, obviously I know 'xxx-yyy range is bad', 'yyy-zzz is good', 'zzz-aaa is excellent' etc. but is there a scale out there or a personalized summary or something that'll give me an idea of just what each means?

    Let's say for example that my score is 650... is there a method of quantifying that? Like, "this score is generally 'ok' for credit checks on apartments, and might get you X rate on a carloan without a cosigner", etc. ?

    It probably wouldn't tell you what your interest rates are, that depends on the bank.

    There's more than just credit score that goes into loan approval (and apartment approval), such as income, length of residence, length of employment.

    Ex: My credit is average but my income is good, I can get approved for things that someone with a good credit rating but lower income might not be able to.

    This is especially true with things such as apartments, where they pretty much demand that you be able to prove X income based on the rent of the apartment.

    Jasconius on
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