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I Want To Ride My Bicycle [Bike Thread]

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Posts

  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited July 2008
    Quid wrote: »
    FUCK YOU SHITTY TIRE RUINING BIKE PUMP.

    Dammit.

    uh what happened? If the tube popped, it's likely because it was installed wrong.

    Also see: why not to buy a bike at Target.

    Doc on
  • QuidQuid Definitely not a banana Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    The tube didn't pop, the pump wouldn't let go of the spigot or whatever it's called, even when pulled straight. Which lead to continued tugging until it ripped off. And being thrown in the trash with the spigot still trapped in the fucker.

    Quid on
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Ughh I hate inflating tire tubes. I had one pop once in my garage from my own stupidity and it was like a gun shot goin off. Left my ears ringing for 5 minutes.

    I just raised my bike seat up this morning and realized I had been riding too low. I had read that if you can touch your toes or more on the ground sitting in the saddle your seats too low. It helped a lot, now I have to learn how to mount and dismount all over again. Bleh.

    webguy20 on
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  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Quid wrote: »
    The tube didn't pop, the pump wouldn't let go of the spigot or whatever it's called, even when pulled straight. Which lead to continued tugging until it ripped off. And being thrown in the trash with the spigot still trapped in the fucker.

    if you go looking for a new pump, look for a Silca brand pump. A little more perhaps, but really nice to use.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Ughh I hate inflating tire tubes. I had one pop once in my garage from my own stupidity and it was like a gun shot goin off. Left my ears ringing for 5 minutes.

    I just raised my bike seat up this morning and realized I had been riding too low. I had read that if you can touch your toes or more on the ground sitting in the saddle your seats too low. It helped a lot, now I have to learn how to mount and dismount all over again. Bleh.

    the best guide is that you want your leg nearly fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • duallainduallain Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Proto wrote: »
    the best guide is that you want your leg nearly fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
    Extend your leg fully when your heel is on the pedal as far down as it can go, that's usually pretty solid.

    So, if you were a person, just hypothetically, who wanted to carry a laptop/books/notebooks back and forth from school but have them on the rack on the back of your bike, what kind of panniers would you get?

    This type: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0009S6SOK/ref=nosim/kkorg-20 or something more complicated? I'm thinking something to put a messenger bag/backpack into.

    duallain on
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Yea I think I'm going to raise it up another half inch on the way home tonight and check that. Its amazing how little a movement can help so much

    webguy20 on
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  • QuidQuid Definitely not a banana Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Well, the good news is that it was a nice walk to the grocery store.

    Quid on
  • MahnmutMahnmut Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    I impaled my rear tire on a nail. In my garage. :(

    On the bright side, it could have been my foot impaled instead.

    Mahnmut on
    Steam/LoL: Jericho89
  • streeverstreever Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Thanks Manhmut! it went great

    I'm pretty familiar with that region--I ride up to Manchester to visit an old friend fairly often. It's pretty up there!

    streever on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited July 2008
    duallain wrote: »
    Proto wrote: »
    the best guide is that you want your leg nearly fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
    Extend your leg fully when your heel is on the pedal as far down as it can go, that's usually pretty solid.

    So, if you were a person, just hypothetically, who wanted to carry a laptop/books/notebooks back and forth from school but have them on the rack on the back of your bike, what kind of panniers would you get?

    This type: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0009S6SOK/ref=nosim/kkorg-20 or something more complicated? I'm thinking something to put a messenger bag/backpack into.

    http://www.dutchbikeseattle.com/html/accessories/FR_08_01.html

    Expensive, but so hot.

    Doc on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Velo orange has some really nice bags too
    http://www.velo-orange.com/bapaandba.html


    Speaking of Velo Orange, I ordered a brooks challenge bag and sew-on elkhide bar covers. They are gonna look sick with my brooks b-17 special.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • KasmarKasmar Registered User new member
    edited July 2008
    I'm looking for a bike rack for my car so I can move my bike a bit easier between college/home/etc (instead of wedging it in the trunk and and taking up all that space. Is it possible to get one for less than $50? I've been checking out various websites from Google searches and they all seem pretty high priced, around $80-250. Any suggestions for a good (and hopefully relatively cheap) bike rack? Any brands or anything I should avoid when looking for one?

    Kasmar on
  • LavaKnightLavaKnight Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    My local craigslist is full of car racks. A lot of them say that the seller will help you get it on your car, too.

    And what's the deal with Brooks saddles anyway? They seem to be the shiznit, everything I've read about them. Is it because they're leather, and carry the normal form fittingness that goes along with leather?

    LavaKnight on
  • yourspaceholidayyourspaceholiday Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Well, they look really nice. I've never ridden on one, but word is after they break in they're also extremely comfortable.

    And they also look really nice.

    yourspaceholiday on
  • streeverstreever Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Both answers are correct.... leather breaks in and fits well over time.

    You want something hard. You get used to it over time. What matters is that your seatbones are firmly planted on it, and there isn't a lot of gel junk in it to wedge between your seatbones & put pressure on blood flow.....

    You really need to measure your seatbones & then get a seat that fits.

    streever on
  • Nakatomi2010Nakatomi2010 Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Totally did not see this thread when I made a bike help thread not too long ago...


    Now, I'm going to admit to skipping the content of this thread and just asking the question here, then going back and reading a bit while I wait for replies....


    Essentially my wife and I are moving to a new apartment complex to get us closer to our respective jobs, my jobs is litterally immeadiatly next to a bike path, and mt apartment complex is at the head of the very same trail. The overall distance is about 5 miles, probably closer to 5.5 miles.... Being from Canada and the types of surfaces I typically rode on up there I've always bought mountain bikes with the naturally stock tires, and weight... Going those 5.5 miles takes me about 30 minutes of exhaustion on this bike, I'm trying to either cut down the ride or the exhaustion. The bike is an 18 speed, and I typically ride in 18th. I understand that since biking is not part of my regular regimen that over time will improve the speed a bit, but I'm looking for results now, and better results later....

    $500 budget for a new bike if need be... (Cheaper than the Segway I was contemplating looking into hehe)

    So, skimming over the first page I notived that lighter bikes make for an easier ride, naturally this makes perfect sense, and that the tires also make a difference, naturally of course as well... So obviously for what I'm planning my current bike just won't be my best choice...


    I think Doc was mentioning the fender somewhere, this would actually be good for me being in Florida and not wanting a skunk trail up my back.....

    Oh, and what's your take on those "Automatic" bikes that change the gears on their own?


    Thoughts, opinions?

    Nakatomi2010 on
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  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    There's no need for a new bike!

    THERE IS NO NEED FOR A NEW BIKE!!

    Trust me, you can have yourself a perfectly good bike for under $100 that will do everything that you need it to do.

    Personally I like bikes with a long wheel base, steel frame, 700c wheels, and gearing that can get me up and down hills. Which is why I always recommend touring bikes. Yes, they may be slightly heavier, but the difference in weight wont make a big difference unless you're racing against Lance Armstrong.

    Why steel? Steel doesnt make piss blood at the end of the day. Aluminum bikes are harsh.

    Why a long wheel base? Strength.

    Why 700c wheels? It's basically the standard nowadays, and you can find cheap spare wheels in this size easily. Also dont buy wheels new, they're a rip off.

    Why gears? Because fix gears sucks unless you're trying to be different by being like everyone else.

    So if I was you, I would skim over craigslist and see what you can find.

    Also, dont waste your time at a bike shop. Their only purpose in life is to rip you off and they rarely have anything utilitarian. Only go there if this applies to you

    http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/02/10/61-bicycles/
    A good place to find white people on a Saturday is at a Bike Shop. Bike shops are almost entirely staffed and patronized by white people!

    But not all white people love bicycles in the same way, there is much diversity. First up, we have the younger urban white folks who absolutely love their fixed gear bicycles. These are seen all over college towns, Silverlake in LA, Williamsburg in Brooklyn, Queen West in Toronto, and Victoria, British Columbia. Fixed gear bicycles meet a lot of requirements for white person acceptance. They can be made from older (i.e. vintage) bicycles, thus allowing the rider to have a unique bike that is unlikely to be ridden by anyone else in town. They are also easily customizable with expensive things Aerospoke rims, Phil Wood Hubs, and Nitto Parts. The combination of rare bicycles and expensive parts makes it easy for white people to judge other white people on the quality and originality of their bicycles. This is important in determining if someone is or isn’t cooler than you.

    White people also like Mountain Bikes because it lets them be in nature. It’s really not more complicated than that.

    And finally, they love expensive Road Bikes and the accompanying spandex uniforms. This enables them to ride long distances and wear really tight clothes without any social stigmas. These types of riders will spend upwards of $5,000 on a bicycle and up to $400 on accessories, but will not ride to work. Perhaps because they cannot wear the spandex. It is important that you never question why someone needs a $5000 bicycle since the answer is always “performance.”

    For the most part, these rules have been unisex. But there is a special category of bicycles that appeal far more to white women, the European city bike (pictured). White women have a lot of fantasies about idealized lives, and one of them is living in Europe and riding around an old city on one of these bikes. They dream about waking up and riding to a little cafe, then visiting bakeries and cheese shops and finally riding home to prepare a fancy meal for their friends who will all eat under a canopy with white Christmas lights. This information can be used to help gain the trust/admiration of a white woman, especially if you can pull off a lie about how your mother told you about how she used to do all of these things when she was younger.

    And of course, it goes without saying that white people who ride bikes like to talk about how they are saving the earth. If you know a person who rides to work, you should take them aside and say “Hey, thanks. Sincerely, The Earth.” Then give a thumbs up. That white person will ride home on a cloud.

    Of course not all bike shops sucks, the problem is that the majority of them do.

    Casually Hardcore on
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Also, dont waste your time at a bike shop. Their only purpose in life is to rip you off and they rarely have anything utilitarian. Only go there if this applies to you

    I want you to ignore literally everything this guy has said, especially the bolded part. He's talking completely out of his ass and with very little actual knowledge.

    If you read through the thread, there is plenty of good advice, and I think I recall a few people asking questions very similar to yours and getting good answers. Shop for a good bike shop, one that will take care of your bike for a long time and not treat you like crap, first and foremost. Then let them find you a bike that works for your budget and kind of riding.

    Auto-shifting bikes are fucking terrible. I mean straight up goddamned awful. Avoid at all costs. They use a flywheel system to keep you in gear, so if you change your pedaling cadence at all, you lose the gear you're in. Not only that - they're crazy expensive for the parts that come on them.

    Is the path you're talking about riding on paved or dirt?

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • JinniganJinnigan Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    i'm riding a schwinn something-or-another


    yep

    Jinnigan on
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  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Totally did not see this thread when I made a bike help thread not too long ago...


    Now, I'm going to admit to skipping the content of this thread and just asking the question here, then going back and reading a bit while I wait for replies....


    Essentially my wife and I are moving to a new apartment complex to get us closer to our respective jobs, my jobs is litterally immeadiatly next to a bike path, and mt apartment complex is at the head of the very same trail. The overall distance is about 5 miles, probably closer to 5.5 miles.... Being from Canada and the types of surfaces I typically rode on up there I've always bought mountain bikes with the naturally stock tires, and weight... Going those 5.5 miles takes me about 30 minutes of exhaustion on this bike, I'm trying to either cut down the ride or the exhaustion. The bike is an 18 speed, and I typically ride in 18th. I understand that since biking is not part of my regular regimen that over time will improve the speed a bit, but I'm looking for results now, and better results later....

    $500 budget for a new bike if need be... (Cheaper than the Segway I was contemplating looking into hehe)

    So, skimming over the first page I notived that lighter bikes make for an easier ride, naturally this makes perfect sense, and that the tires also make a difference, naturally of course as well... So obviously for what I'm planning my current bike just won't be my best choice...


    I think Doc was mentioning the fender somewhere, this would actually be good for me being in Florida and not wanting a skunk trail up my back.....

    Oh, and what's your take on those "Automatic" bikes that change the gears on their own?


    Thoughts, opinions?

    if the bike path is paved, then simply switching to a skinner, street style tire will help a lot. A bike shop can help you get the right kind of tire.

    If you have already decided on getting something different, then 500 can buy you a pretty decent new commuter bike. Or it could buy you a good used road bike (which is what I would do). If you are looking to mount fenders (and a rack?) make sure the bike has all the braze-ons you'll need.

    I'd go to a few bike shops, tell them what you are looking to do, and get advice from them. Take some bikes for test rides, see what you like, and decide from there.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Why a long wheel base? Strength.

    Well, this is total bullshit.

    Touring bikes have longer wheel bases because it makes them more stable and comfortable at lower speeds. This is important when you are riding all day, loaded down with gear. But they can also feel sluggish, especially when unloaded. A shorter wheelbase will make the bike more manuverable, especially at higher speeds. Track bikes have very short wheelbases for this reason.

    If you are just commuting, then a true touring bike is probably overkill.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Nakatomi2010Nakatomi2010 Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    The path I'm riding to work is all paved, with a few slopes here and there, one particularly bad one that is essentially a blind curve under a bridge which the one time I rode on it forced me to swurve into the oncoming lane... And sadly it goes right next to the landfill for about a half mile stretch... very sadly... Hence why speed matters to me, that crap stings the eyes...

    So, you're also implying that replacing the mountain grade tires with proper street once would make a difference? Though, it would be silly to have a mountain style bike with street tires... Dunno....

    Keep it coming kids...

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  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    The path I'm riding to work is all paved, with a few slopes here and there, one particularly bad one that is essentially a blind curve under a bridge which the one time I rode on it forced me to swurve into the oncoming lane... And sadly it goes right next to the landfill for about a half mile stretch... very sadly... Hence why speed matters to me, that crap stings the eyes...

    So, you're also implying that replacing the mountain grade tires with proper street once would make a difference? Though, it would be silly to have a mountain style bike with street tires... Dunno....

    Keep it coming kids...

    It's not silly, people do it all the time when converting their mtn bike into a commuter. These aren't the skinny road bike tires, they are still mountain style in diameter (26) but they are thinner and have little or no knobs. This makes them roll smoother, faster, and safer on pavement.

    It's a pretty cheap way to make your mountain bike ride a whole lot better on the road.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Standard $500 bike recommendation:

    Specialized Globe Vienna

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • LavaKnightLavaKnight Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    What kind of suspension does the bike have? If it's full suspension, than you probably are losing a bit of power while commuting. If not, there's no reason why you can't get away with putting skinnier, slicker tires on. Tires do help a ton, as the slicker and skinnier they are, the less rolling resistance you'll have.

    Plus, doing that would be a lot cheaper than dropping the money on a new bike. In general, bike prices are going up, so you might be hard pressed to find something for cheap.

    Aside from that, Craigslist is a great option. There are always quite a few newish bikes for sale in your price range. You wont get top of the line 2009 models, but you should be able to find some lightweight aluminum bikes that would fit your needs.

    LavaKnight on
  • saltinesssaltiness Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    So last week I bought some Conti Gatorskin 23c's to replace my Vittoria 28c's and wow, what a difference. While the weight different isn't much because Gators are still kinda heavy, the ride is stiffer and more responsive which I like a lot. Pedaling up these SF hills is easier as well with the higher tire pressure I'm able to run.

    saltiness on
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  • RenegadeSilenceRenegadeSilence Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    blah blah blah

    Ignore this guy, he's guy is full of it. A bike for under $100? No way will you find a decent bike at that price point, not even craigslist, the only thing you're going to be able to buy are shitty wal-mart bikes.
    If your going to commute to work with a bike, you sure as hell don't want it breaking down on you.

    Nakatomi2010, google "sheldon brown" his guides helped me loads when I was looking for my first bike.
    Also, craigslist is an excellent option if you know what your looking for, I got an upgraded specialized stumpjumper for only $250.

    RenegadeSilence on
  • msh1283msh1283 Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    So I've got a $300 gift certificate for amazon and I want to get some road wheels/tires for my mountain bike for riding on paved paths. Not really sure what I need/what to avoid. I'd appreciate any help figuring out what exactly I should be looking for (sizes, specs, etc) and some suggestions as to specific brands/models.

    Here's my current bike: http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32576

    Here's amazon's list of wheels in my budget: http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1217208940/ref=sr_nr_p_36_pr?rs=3405001&rh=n%3A3375251%2Cn%3A3403201%2Cn%3A3404731%2Cn%3A3405001&low-price=20&high-price=300&x=14&y=5

    And their list of tires: http://www.amazon.com/Tires-Components-Parts-Sports/b/ref=sc_bm_br_3403201_15_mo_12?ie=UTF8&node=3404981&no=3403201&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    msh1283 on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    msh1283 wrote: »
    So I've got a $300 gift certificate for amazon and I want to get some road wheels/tires for my mountain bike for riding on paved paths. Not really sure what I need/what to avoid. I'd appreciate any help figuring out what exactly I should be looking for (sizes, specs, etc) and some suggestions as to specific brands/models.

    Here's my current bike: http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32576

    Here's amazon's list of wheels in my budget: http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1217208940/ref=sr_nr_p_36_pr?rs=3405001&rh=n%3A3375251%2Cn%3A3403201%2Cn%3A3404731%2Cn%3A3405001&low-price=20&high-price=300&x=14&y=5

    And their list of tires: http://www.amazon.com/Tires-Components-Parts-Sports/b/ref=sc_bm_br_3403201_15_mo_12?ie=UTF8&node=3404981&no=3403201&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    You aren't going to be able to put 700c road wheels on your mountain bike. So much of those lists are wrong. You need 26" wheels.

    Are you going to want to swap your new wheels and your old wheels around all the time? Because maybe it'll be more cost effective to just buy some slicks for the wheels you already have and then just change tires when you need to. That's what I would do anyway. Buying a whole new wheelset for a $400 bike doesn't make much sense IMHO.

    As for tire size, look on the tires you already have. You should see a number on the side. There should be 26x2.1" written on it somewhere. The 26 means that it's a 26" diameter tire. The second number is the width, 2.1".

    Ususally you can just get another 26" tire in the width you want (in your case, something like 1.5" - 1.9"). But, just to be safe, you need to make sure that your new tire will fit on to your existing rims.

    There should also be another number on the tire. Something like xx-559. That's also the tire's size. The xx is the width of the tire and the 559 is rim size. So you'll also need to look for tires that have a rim size of 559 (or whatever your number is, but it's probably 559). Sometimes they list it as ISO diameter.
    Like here:
    http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-RiBMo-26x1-50-Aramid-TR2201/dp/B001617Y9M/ref=sr_1_102?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1217214755&sr=1-102

    Finally, avoid wire bead tires and get kevlar bead (folding) instead. Wire bead tires can be a real pain to get on and off, and if you are gonna be swapping tires it'll make things go much smoother if you have kevlars. Kevlars may be a little more, but the reduction in frustration is well worth it when you get a flat.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • msh1283msh1283 Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a ton!

    msh1283 on
  • streeverstreever Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    yea, that guy is full of it
    he's insane
    fix gear are great winter trainers, with an easy gear on them
    but that isn't what you are doing, so yes, bike with gears

    you can probably just put road tires on your MTB if it doesn't have full suspension crap and it's tall enough to get an efficient pedal stroke

    i'm a bit ignorant about mtb shifting/gearing, what do you mean when you say you ride it in "18th"? is that the hardest or easiest gear?

    On a road bike, I only ride doubles, and I don't go into my big chain ring unless I'm attacking or chasing or on a wicked descent

    I spin & spin in my little front and my 2nd to 3rd smallest in the rear

    Anyone reading this, don't be that guy who is in big to big. It's just messy & not very elegant. If you are in a 23 or 25 in the back, and a 53 in the front, you just need to be in your smaller gear & a 17 in the rear, I promise.

    YES! GATORSKINS
    another convert?

    I love them
    Vittoria, I think, are crap
    I ride with lots of guys in a fast (20 mph) pace group ride, and they all buy vittoria
    and they all flat
    i'm... 2 flats in 3 years? 1 time I rode over a giant nail, after a tiring century (within site of the finish), and the 2nd one was today, riding 60 miles in a torrential downpour, hitting a GIANT piece of beer bottle I just couldn't see due to how hard it was raining

    5 riders & 4 flats, that's a rough day on the bike

    sure the gatorskins are heavier
    but if they delay you by 1 minute over 60 miles
    (which isn't even true, i finish ahead of guys on vittorias all day)
    you've still saved 5 minutes because you didn't have to change a tire

    you also saved 8 bucks (patch kit, co2, tube, etc) which probably equals more than 1 minute of riding for you

    streever on
  • saltinesssaltiness Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Good to know. I very rarely get flats so with these gatorskins it should be even more rare. I hate fixing flats.

    saltiness on
    XBL: heavenkils
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited July 2008
    streever wrote: »
    yea, that guy is full of it
    he's insane
    fix gear are great winter trainers, with an easy gear on them
    but that isn't what you are doing, so yes, bike with gears

    you can probably just put road tires on your MTB if it doesn't have full suspension crap and it's tall enough to get an efficient pedal stroke

    i'm a bit ignorant about mtb shifting/gearing, what do you mean when you say you ride it in "18th"? is that the hardest or easiest gear?

    On a road bike, I only ride doubles, and I don't go into my big chain ring unless I'm attacking or chasing or on a wicked descent

    I spin & spin in my little front and my 2nd to 3rd smallest in the rear

    Anyone reading this, don't be that guy who is in big to big. It's just messy & not very elegant. If you are in a 23 or 25 in the back, and a 53 in the front, you just need to be in your smaller gear & a 17 in the rear, I promise.

    YES! GATORSKINS
    another convert?

    I love them
    Vittoria, I think, are crap
    I ride with lots of guys in a fast (20 mph) pace group ride, and they all buy vittoria
    and they all flat
    i'm... 2 flats in 3 years? 1 time I rode over a giant nail, after a tiring century (within site of the finish), and the 2nd one was today, riding 60 miles in a torrential downpour, hitting a GIANT piece of beer bottle I just couldn't see due to how hard it was raining

    5 riders & 4 flats, that's a rough day on the bike

    sure the gatorskins are heavier
    but if they delay you by 1 minute over 60 miles
    (which isn't even true, i finish ahead of guys on vittorias all day)
    you've still saved 5 minutes because you didn't have to change a tire

    you also saved 8 bucks (patch kit, co2, tube, etc) which probably equals more than 1 minute of riding for you

    I ride on Armadillos to similar effect.

    Doc on
  • yourspaceholidayyourspaceholiday Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    I need to get some of those. My last flat was within walking distance to work, but I'd hate to get one a little further out since I pretty much suck at changing tubes.

    Update on the quest for a new bike: I now have my sights set on either a Rivendell Atlantis for the Ye Olde School factor, or an Orbea Orca for the omg-carbon-you're-so-light factor. Note, both of these are considerably out of reach financially, but, I can dream...

    yourspaceholiday on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    Rivendell's are such nice bikes.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • LavaKnightLavaKnight Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    I have a question now, actually. For a while now my saddle has been slipping throughout the course of a ride. Slowly but surely it works itself loose and pitches up, so that the nose is pointed up at a drastic, and dare I say uncomfortable angle. This was a minor problem until yesterday, when it happened three times along the course of a 20 mile ride.

    Now, I pulled everything apart and it looks like the saddle clamp might be stripped or something. It's a Carbon Felt seatpost that came stock on my F75, and the top of the seatpost has notches that, combined with the notches on the bottom of the clamp, can subtly adjust the angle of the saddle.

    My suspicion is that the notches on the clamp are stripped or something, but I worry that it's something worse. Has anyone had anything similar happen, or have any advice?

    I hope it's not the seatpost itself, but I wouldn't mind searching for an upgrade.

    LavaKnight on
  • saltinesssaltiness Registered User regular
    edited July 2008
    I have the same seat post on my Z70 and I haven't had any problems with it. Is your bike still under warranty/service? I would take it to the shop where you bought it and have them fix it.

    saltiness on
    XBL: heavenkils
  • TreelootTreeloot Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I just fished a BMX bike out of a pond. The brakes don't quite work, there's a bit of rust, and the chain keeps popping off. Other than that it seems to be in fairly good condition and doesn't look like it's more than 5 years old.

    If I Craigslist this thing, how much can I expect to get?

    Treeloot on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Treeloot wrote: »
    I just fished a BMX bike out of a pond. The brakes don't quite work, there's a bit of rust, and the chain keeps popping off. Other than that it seems to be in fairly good condition and doesn't look like it's more than 5 years old.

    If I Craigslist this thing, how much can I expect to get?

    Depends on the brand, is it a wallmart special?

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
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