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...super heated power supply?

UltimaGeckoUltimaGecko Registered User regular
So I just put together my computer made of a selection of newegg parts, everything seems to be running fine, except ...when I look in any sort of sensor reading software it says my power/aux is at 80 to 85°C. I'm not sure what the problem is here.


For starters it's this 600W PSU (the only remark I find relevant in anyone's cons is that the fan points downwards).

The fan inside is working, the PSU doesn't feel hot to the touch anywhere inside (nowhere near 80°C, in any case. Even if the sensor is at the top of the PSU the top of the case doesn't even feel warm. Out of the settings Low/Auto/High I have it set on high right now (was on Auto, high doesn't lower the temp, anyway).

It can't be bleed-off heat, since the processor's heat sensor is at 35 and the motherboard is at 30. The graphics card is at 45-55, and it's nowhere near the PSU.

So I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me with this. Either determining if the sensor is faulty (...maybe it only reports in Fahrenheit or something?), or if some component in the middle is legitimately at 80 degrees. It seems to run fine, but I don't want to damage it and I'd like to figure out what the problem is here.

Anyone have any suggestions or possibly any other sensor reading programs I could try? I've tried speedfan , pcwizard and CPU hardware monitor and they all seem to be consistent with their high temperature reading.

The facehuggers want to play with you in the AvP LP. Facehuggers also want you to check out the TF2 cards here. View the in-progress RE mansion recreation for L4D here.
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    stigweardstigweard Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Is the air coming out of the psu hot to the touch? If it isn't, you have nothing to worry about.

    stigweard on
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    UltimaGeckoUltimaGecko Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Guess I'll just let it be then...until my plastic facehugger sitting on top of my tower starts to melt, anyway.

    UltimaGecko on
    The facehuggers want to play with you in the AvP LP. Facehuggers also want you to check out the TF2 cards here. View the in-progress RE mansion recreation for L4D here.
    Bitstream wrote: »
    People respect a man who might do science at any moment.
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    OremLKOremLK Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I think it should be mentioned that Rosewill PSUs are generally a very bad idea. That's not to say that it is going to break, blow up, or otherwise have problems, but I've definitely heard from a lot of reputable sources that Rosewill = crapshoot.

    I used to just get whatever when it comes to PSUs, but I realize now that it might be the single most important component in terms of ensuring the continued reliability of your PC. You might want to consider returning that PSU and getting something from a more reputable manufacturer like Corsair (rebranded SeaSonic).

    OremLK on
    My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
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    TransparentTransparent Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Stick to the higher quality TX and VX with one good rail, someone just had one of the modular 3 weak railed ones blow up on them in the build thread. I guess you're not completely immune even if you pick a more reputable brand.

    Transparent on
    PAXtrain '10, let's do this!
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    UltimaGeckoUltimaGecko Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I'm going to look into Rosewill's customer support or problem confirmation and whatnot ( I suspect I'll be needing a new PSU, if only due to a faulty sensor); I suppose my replacement question (while waiting for a new PSU): is my old 450W PSU going to be able to deal with a Radeon 4850, an Athlon X2 5400+, 4gb of ram, a hard drive (technically there's more than one, but while waiting for a replacement one would suffice) and a dvd writer (both SATA)?

    The graphics card probably eats up the power, but I'm not all that great with calculating potential power consumption of components.

    UltimaGecko on
    The facehuggers want to play with you in the AvP LP. Facehuggers also want you to check out the TF2 cards here. View the in-progress RE mansion recreation for L4D here.
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    OremLKOremLK Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Not enough information. Wattage doesn't really matter--we need to know amperage, or number of watts on the 12V rail(s).

    OremLK on
    My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
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    syrionsyrion Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I don't like Rosewill. Seasonic, PC Power & Cooling, Zippy, and Antec are probably the ones with the best name recognition right now. My current computer (2002 vintage) is running a Vantec, which has never burped once in six years, but they've fallen off some in reputaiton. My new build will be Seasonic 500W.

    To be honest, I wouldn't even try running your stuff on your old PSU unless it was a good brand and is in good condition. If it's of a certain age, it may not even have PCI-e connectors.

    syrion on
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    UltimaGeckoUltimaGecko Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    OremLK wrote: »
    Not enough information. Wattage doesn't really matter--we need to know amperage, or number of watts on the 12V rail(s).


    My electrical symbolism is a bit iffy, but I believe it's got 28 amps on the 3V, 40 amps on the 5V and 25 amps on the 12V. It's an NSpire from 2 or 3 years ago; It has power connectors for SATA, at least. It ran my machine fine before (including additional power for a Radeon X700 pro, which is probably at least a partial analogue to a PCI-e card in regards to power consumption). probably the same set up I have now except one of the HDDs and the optical drive are SATA.

    UltimaGecko on
    The facehuggers want to play with you in the AvP LP. Facehuggers also want you to check out the TF2 cards here. View the in-progress RE mansion recreation for L4D here.
    Bitstream wrote: »
    People respect a man who might do science at any moment.
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    Dunadan019Dunadan019 Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    OremLK wrote: »
    Not enough information. Wattage doesn't really matter--we need to know amperage, or number of watts on the 12V rail(s).


    My electrical symbolism is a bit iffy, but I believe it's got 28 amps on the 3V, 40 amps on the 5V and 25 amps on the 12V. It's an NSpire from 2 or 3 years ago; It has power connectors for SATA, at least. It ran my machine fine before (including additional power for a Radeon X700 pro, which is probably at least a partial analogue to a PCI-e card in regards to power consumption). probably the same set up I have now except one of the HDDs and the optical drive are SATA.

    what you are looking for is a 6 (2x3) or 8 (2x4) pin connector. most likely is the 2x3 which will be required by almost all ATI cards and most Nvidia cards.

    wattage is another concern with old PSUs. you need to have a PSU with at least (i calculate while im drunk) 25 amps on the 5v rail for 2 SATA and 2 input drives. and 25 amps on the 12v rail.

    your old 450W PSU should be ok for the new req unless it doesnt pass the connector test.

    i honestly recomend the 550W corsair PSU without modular cabling. its a TX version if i dont remember. corsair is one of the best right now.

    Dunadan019 on
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    OremLKOremLK Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    OremLK wrote: »
    Not enough information. Wattage doesn't really matter--we need to know amperage, or number of watts on the 12V rail(s).


    My electrical symbolism is a bit iffy, but I believe it's got 28 amps on the 3V, 40 amps on the 5V and 25 amps on the 12V. It's an NSpire from 2 or 3 years ago; It has power connectors for SATA, at least. It ran my machine fine before (including additional power for a Radeon X700 pro, which is probably at least a partial analogue to a PCI-e card in regards to power consumption). probably the same set up I have now except one of the HDDs and the optical drive are SATA.

    I wouldn't risk it even if it has the right connector for your video card. 25 amps is pretty low, you want at least 30 or so to feel safe with today's video cards.

    OremLK on
    My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
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