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So I have a Ford Contour '98, 93k miles, that I am planning on driving into the ground. I have had a transmission problem for the last 2 years, which makes the check engine light be on all the time. Now recently ther light began flashing for about 10 seconds once in a while. I do about 60 miles a day, and it flashes once a day, if at all, before coming back to constant on...
There is no indication that anything is going wrong when this happens, and the car behaves as usual.
I will be able to read the onboard codes sometime next week, but in the meantime I was wondering if anyone would know what might be happening, and how worried should I be.
Now I am not planning on putting any more money into this car, so I am gauging how much longer I have until I have to buy a new one...
So I have a Ford Contour '98, 93k miles, that I am planning on driving into the ground. I have had a transmission problem for the last 2 years, which makes the check engine light be on all the time. Now recently ther light began flashing for about 10 seconds once in a while. I do about 60 miles a day, and it flashes once a day, if at all, before coming back to constant on...
There is no indication that anything is going wrong when this happens, and the car behaves as usual.
I will be able to read the onboard codes sometime next week, but in the meantime I was wondering if anyone would know what might be happening, and how worried should I be.
Now I am not planning on putting any more money into this car, so I am gauging how much longer I have until I have to buy a new one...
Possibly just because you're reaching 100,000. Many vehicles try to alert you every 50,000.
Really to figure out what all the problems are you should get the car scanned. Go to Autozone and get it scanned for free, they can tell you what all the codes are. Take the numbered errors that they give you and hit google, or come back here, then you can at least see if it's something other than your transmission causing the light to act up.
Well, I know on some Fords (though I think this was pre-96 when they didn't have the same diagnostic output) there was a way to read out an error code which would cause the check engine light to blink a certain number of times in a sequence to represent the code number. It's possible that this is what's happening. Try to watch and see if the number/pattern of flashes is the same each time.
It's also possible that when your check engine light is on but something else tries to switch it on that it blinks so that you know there's a second problem.
It's also possible, though probably least likely, that there's a problem with the connection for the check engine light so it could be flaking out as you drive.
Normally when the light flashes, I think it means there's some sort of misfiring and/or emissions-related problem going on.
If there is some sort of mileage reminder as Octoparrot suggested, it might be mentioned in the manual, and/or you might be able to check with a nearby Ford dealer or something.
Personally, I would drive it only if needed until you get the codes read, and then go from there. If it is an emissions/misfire problem, it could be damaging the catalytic converter, which tends to be rather expensive to replace. As someone mentioned while I was typing this, you can take the car to an Autozone and they will generally pull the codes for you for free.
Will try autozone. I have my own OBD reader, but unfortunaterly it is on loan until next week.
Why it didnt concern me initially, is that the blinking light appears randomly and very rarely and for only short periods of time.
Now I have to figure out where the nearest Autozone is...
I'm not sure about 98, but in early to mid 90s vehicles, the #1 cause of a check engine light is a bad oxygen sensor. At any rate, check or get the code checked then proceed. It's probably something straightforward.
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My check engine light came on at 90,000 miles to get me to bring it in for a 100,000 mile checkup. I've also had it come on because sensors were starting to go around 80,000 or so, which, ironically, was causing transmission problems with down shifting and up shifting at weird RPMs.
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Normally when the light flashes, I think it means there's some sort of misfiring.
Which is correct in the Contour as well. I had mine flashing due to a misfiring caused by one of the plugs before.
And misfiring is bad? How bad is it?
And oxygen sensor failure usually gives you a constant on light.
Misfiring can be fixed by just changing out the spark plugs and wires. Easiest way to check and see if something is misfiring causing the blinking light is to take a look at the plug wires. Since it doesn't do it constantly, see if one of them is melted, causing it to arc against the engine.
If that's not it, another flashing light is the catalytic converter protect. It'll flash the light saying "Hey you're burning up your catalytic converter."
Usually both of those errors will throw a code as well, so scanning it may point you in the right direction and autozone will do it for free.
Another option: Shut off the car, pull a plug wire, start car, see if light blinks. :P Causing a misfire yourself is an easy way to tell.
Well, I know on some Fords (though I think this was pre-96 when they didn't have the same diagnostic output) there was a way to read out an error code which would cause the check engine light to blink a certain number of times in a sequence to represent the code number. It's possible that this is what's happening. Try to watch and see if the number/pattern of flashes is the same each time.
It's also possible that when your check engine light is on but something else tries to switch it on that it blinks so that you know there's a second problem.
It's also possible, though probably least likely, that there's a problem with the connection for the check engine light so it could be flaking out as you drive.
That's only on OBD I cars. not OBD II.
If it's flashing in a sequence then your car is telling you something. You said that you'll be able to check the codes in about a week, is there any reason you can't head to autozone or an advanced auto parts to have them pull the code? It's free.
Check engine could be a hundred different things, most of them basically harmless. You could get it checked, or just wait to see if the engine is behaving abnormally in any other way.
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I looked on some Ford forums. it is either a misfire or a powertain module failure.
Changing plugs and wires is not a garantee fix for misfire. It can also be a coilpack issue, dist. cap, even a compression problem
But in troubleshooting, always aim for the cheapest fix first. All of this is speculation until he pulls the codes from it anyways.
To be fair, troubleshooting is figuring out what the problem is before throwing parts at the problem. That is don't slap some wires in plugs in and think it will be fixed. You could remove and inspect the plugs. You could start the car at night in a dark place and check the wires(If they are bad you will see them arcing thru the sheaths) Meter the coils, etc.
I looked on some Ford forums. it is either a misfire or a powertain module failure.
Changing plugs and wires is not a garantee fix for misfire. It can also be a coilpack issue, dist. cap, even a compression problem
But in troubleshooting, always aim for the cheapest fix first. All of this is speculation until he pulls the codes from it anyways.
To be fair, troubleshooting is figuring out what the problem is before throwing parts at the problem. That is don't slap some wires in plugs in and think it will be fixed. You could remove and inspect the plugs. You could start the car at night in a dark place and check the wires(If they are bad you will see them arcing thru the sheaths) Meter the coils, etc.
And if you've read my other posts, I've repeatedly said to run the codes or look at things before you replace them. :P Enough said though, I'm hoping the OP comes back with some codes so we can see what it was.
Running codes often tells very little. Misfire is 300. All that tells you is that the computer sensed a misfire, if youare lucky it might code the cylinder(301, 302, etc. but probably not). There are a bunch of issues that can cause a misfire. Might be as simple as a piece of carbon stuck in the plug gap, might be a sticking valve.
Running codes often tells very little. Misfire is 300. All that tells you is that the computer sensed a misfire, if youare lucky it might code the cylinder(301, 302, etc. but probably not). There are a bunch of issues that can cause a misfire. Might be as simple as a piece of carbon stuck in the plug gap, might be a sticking valve.
Yeah, all the codes do, really, is refer you to the actual test for whatever is wrong. Like, you get 300. Well, no you have to open up the service manual for your car and see what diagnostic tests you have to perform for code 300. If a technician ever tells you that he pulled the code and it said he had to replace x, y, and z, run away as fast as you can.
My check engine light came on at 90,000 miles to get me to bring it in for a 100,000 mile checkup. I've also had it come on because sensors were starting to go around 80,000 or so, which, ironically, was causing transmission problems with down shifting and up shifting at weird RPMs.
mine just came on, i'm at 88k miles. it's probably that then.
and then sometimes on the freeway the overdrive off light will start to flash. i don't know what that's about, i'll see if the manual has anything to say.
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Possibly just because you're reaching 100,000. Many vehicles try to alert you every 50,000.
It's also possible that when your check engine light is on but something else tries to switch it on that it blinks so that you know there's a second problem.
It's also possible, though probably least likely, that there's a problem with the connection for the check engine light so it could be flaking out as you drive.
If there is some sort of mileage reminder as Octoparrot suggested, it might be mentioned in the manual, and/or you might be able to check with a nearby Ford dealer or something.
Personally, I would drive it only if needed until you get the codes read, and then go from there. If it is an emissions/misfire problem, it could be damaging the catalytic converter, which tends to be rather expensive to replace. As someone mentioned while I was typing this, you can take the car to an Autozone and they will generally pull the codes for you for free.
Why it didnt concern me initially, is that the blinking light appears randomly and very rarely and for only short periods of time.
Now I have to figure out where the nearest Autozone is...
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
Which is correct in the Contour as well. I had mine flashing due to a misfiring caused by one of the plugs before.
And misfiring is bad? How bad is it?
And oxygen sensor failure usually gives you a constant on light.
Its bad in that you want it to be fixed but if you can do the repairs yourself its normally fairly cheap.
Misfiring is bad, yes. Not "OMG teh car is going to explode!!!111!" bad, but something to get fixed nonetheless.
Misfiring can be fixed by just changing out the spark plugs and wires. Easiest way to check and see if something is misfiring causing the blinking light is to take a look at the plug wires. Since it doesn't do it constantly, see if one of them is melted, causing it to arc against the engine.
If that's not it, another flashing light is the catalytic converter protect. It'll flash the light saying "Hey you're burning up your catalytic converter."
Usually both of those errors will throw a code as well, so scanning it may point you in the right direction and autozone will do it for free.
Another option: Shut off the car, pull a plug wire, start car, see if light blinks. :P Causing a misfire yourself is an easy way to tell.
If it's flashing in a sequence then your car is telling you something. You said that you'll be able to check the codes in about a week, is there any reason you can't head to autozone or an advanced auto parts to have them pull the code? It's free.
Changing plugs and wires is not a garantee fix for misfire. It can also be a coilpack issue, dist. cap, even a compression problem
But in troubleshooting, always aim for the cheapest fix first. All of this is speculation until he pulls the codes from it anyways.
To be fair, troubleshooting is figuring out what the problem is before throwing parts at the problem. That is don't slap some wires in plugs in and think it will be fixed. You could remove and inspect the plugs. You could start the car at night in a dark place and check the wires(If they are bad you will see them arcing thru the sheaths) Meter the coils, etc.
And if you've read my other posts, I've repeatedly said to run the codes or look at things before you replace them. :P Enough said though, I'm hoping the OP comes back with some codes so we can see what it was.
Yeah, all the codes do, really, is refer you to the actual test for whatever is wrong. Like, you get 300. Well, no you have to open up the service manual for your car and see what diagnostic tests you have to perform for code 300. If a technician ever tells you that he pulled the code and it said he had to replace x, y, and z, run away as fast as you can.
mine just came on, i'm at 88k miles. it's probably that then.
and then sometimes on the freeway the overdrive off light will start to flash. i don't know what that's about, i'll see if the manual has anything to say.