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Help me get some pussy.

noir_bloodnoir_blood Registered User regular
edited August 2008 in Help / Advice Forum
No, not THAT kind of pussy. But the adorable, kitty version.

I been wanting to get a pet for a good while, and I finally have the means to do so(i.e, live in a place that allows them). It woudl have to be an indoor pet, so I'm thinking a cat would be good, although if anyone has any other suggestions, throw those out too.

Anyways, where would be the best place to get a cat? I mean, is there really any reason why I shouldn't just pick one up from an animal shelter as oppose to an actual cat store? I really would like to get one young though.

Also, where's the best place to put a litterbox? I have a really big walk in closet, so I was thinking there, but then thought that would probably stink up my clothes. The bathroom then? I rather the whole apartment doesn't smell like cat/litterbox.

noir_blood on

Posts

  • SamSam Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Try Facebook Marketplace, they list a lot of free cats for adoption.

    Sam on
  • wmelonwmelon Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I would suggest going to a shelter. Those animals need somebody to take them in and love them. Most shelters will have kittens as well as adult cats.

    I keep my litter box in my spare bedroom. The bathroom or kitchen area are probably both decent places as well.

    wmelon on
  • TL DRTL DR Not at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Best place for a litterbox is somewhere not carpeted, and a place that you see on a daily basis. You don't want to forget about it for a week and then wonder why the cat is pissing in your clean laundry.

    TL DR on
  • PheezerPheezer Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Go to a shelter. You'll save a life and probably get a deal on the shots and so forth. If you spend money at a pet store you're just making the problem (too many damned cats) worse and you should be aware that a lot of pet stores aren't too picky about investigating breeders thoroughly and frequently support abominable people who raise too many animals in too little space with no care and insufficient food and poor hygiene.

    That, or look around your local want ads/whatever and see who needs to give up a cat because they're moving into an apartment that won't let them keep their pet.

    Don't spend money, though.

    Pheezer on
    IT'S GOT ME REACHING IN MY POCKET IT'S GOT ME FORKING OVER CASH
    CUZ THERE'S SOMETHING IN THE MIDDLE AND IT'S GIVING ME A RASH
  • vytroxvytrox Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Just get a cat from a shelter. They have kittens as well, so don't worry about that. Make sure the place is reputable and the cats have had all their shots, etc. Also you should find a vet. Much like doctors it's better if you have a relationship with someone, plus if something happens you want a plan.

    Emergency vets are crazy expensive.

    vytrox on
  • JebusUDJebusUD Adventure! Candy IslandRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    some shelters will charge you like, a 15 dollar fee. But there is no reason to get it from a pet store when you can get ones that are just as good or better from a shelter.

    JebusUD on
    and I wonder about my neighbors even though I don't have them
    but they're listening to every word I say
  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    When all the shelters around where I live wanted $400 for a 10 year old cat/ inspections of my home every couple of months/ and for me to return the cat if I ever move - I searched craigslist and found someone who had adopted a cat and found out it was pregnant when they went to get it fixed. So yeah, we ended up rescuing 2 kittens without all the red tape. Not to say all shelters are bad or anything, just research the place before you find a cat you like only to get buried in the unreasonable requirements some of these places have.

    MushroomStick on
  • Forbe!Forbe! Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Beware. Some shelters don't test animals for diseases when they come in. One humane society by my house is notorious for sending cats out with FIP. You get attached to your new friend, and then you have to euthanize them. I had to put two kittens down because a month after we adopted them, their FIP or Feline Leukemia symptoms started to manifest.

    Forbe! on
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  • EverywhereasignEverywhereasign Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I like the litterpan in my bathroom. It's harder to ignore if it starts getting ripe and if my little guy kicks litter out of the box it's easy to sweep up, rather then having to vacuum a carpet.

    If you know a good vet you can always drop by their office and ask if any of their "clients" are pregnant. It's a good way of finding a kitten when a vet can vouch for the health of the mother.

    Everywhereasign on
    "What are you dense? Are you retarded or something? Who the hell do you think I am? I'm the goddamn Batman!"
  • VisionOfClarityVisionOfClarity Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Some shelters are great and they screen for disease and do temperament assessments, others don't. I got my kitten from the Boston Animal Control Shelter and they do test for diseases, fix their animals and assess their behavior. The adoption fee was cheap, somewhere around $40-60, I don't remember. She's a big sweety and I mean big. The shelter just looked and thought she was a domestic medium hair with tiger markings. She's actually a Maine Coon and that means a big difference in size and care.

    That being said, my roomie's cat came from the local pet shop. She came with the basic shots as well but was not fixed and that was expensive for my roomie to do. The cat also cost $175. However, while she was expensvie she has a fun, frisky personality unlike any other cat I've ever met and was worth every penny.

    Explore both options, visit shelters and pet stores. Not all pet stores are kitty mills and not all shelters have cats that are even safe to adopt. The important thing is to find a kitten you connect with.

    I have my cat's litterbox in a quite corner of the living room. I clean it frequently so it doesn't smell. My roomie's cat's litterbox was in the same place. It's poop, however, smelled like death and stunk up the whole apartment no matter where the box was.

    VisionOfClarity on
  • Richard_DastardlyRichard_Dastardly Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    It's not a good idea to let your cat wander outside unsupervised. For starters, outside cats have an increased risk of disease and junk. Not to mention cars and teenagers with bb guns. Plus, it's none too good for the local wildlife. And, bell collars don't work.

    But, as far as cats go, you could get a kitten pretty much anywhere. There are probably adoption agencies who use foster owners to take care of the kittens. The ones around my house are pretty strict though... we actually had an interview and they even called our vet before we could get a kitten from them.

    Richard_Dastardly on
  • KalkinoKalkino Buttons Londres Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Some shelters are great and they screen for disease and do temperament assessments, others don't. I got my kitten from the Boston Animal Control Shelter and they do test for diseases, fix their animals and assess their behavior. The adoption fee was cheap, somewhere around $40-60, I don't remember. She's a big sweety and I mean big. The shelter just looked and thought she was a domestic medium hair with tiger markings. She's actually a Maine Coon and that means a big difference in size and care.

    That being said, my roomie's cat came from the local pet shop. She came with the basic shots as well but was not fixed and that was expensive for my roomie to do. The cat also cost $175. However, while she was expensvie she has a fun, frisky personality unlike any other cat I've ever met and was worth every penny.

    Explore both options, visit shelters and pet stores. Not all pet stores are kitty mills and not all shelters have cats that are even safe to adopt. The important thing is to find a kitten you connect with.

    I have my cat's litterbox in a quite corner of the living room. I clean it frequently so it doesn't smell. My roomie's cat's litterbox was in the same place. It's poop, however, smelled like death and stunk up the whole apartment no matter where the box was.

    How much does it cost to keep a Maine Coon, say compared to a regular sized cat? I am planning to get one at some point

    Kalkino on
    Freedom for the Northern Isles!
  • DiscoZombieDiscoZombie Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    as far as litter box goes, I give a hearty endorsement to this one:

    http://www.amazon.com/Tidy-Breeze-Litter-System-1-Count/dp/B001411SK0/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1219964468&sr=8-1

    basically, it applies diaper technology to your litter box. no messy clay or scoopable litter to bother with - the pee goes right through what are basically some rocks into a diaper-like pad in a tray underneath, and no smell escapes from there. only have to change the pad once a week, the pellets once a month. the poop is easily scooped with minimal loss of pellets. Only problem is, if you have a kitty that has diarrhea frequently, this may not be the litter box for you.

    honestly though, I got so sick of my apartment smelling like pee, and having to scrape up pee-encrusted litter from the bottom of a regular litter box. this one solves that problem so very well.

    DiscoZombie on
  • DiscoZombieDiscoZombie Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Kalkino wrote: »
    How much does it cost to keep a Maine Coon, say compared to a regular sized cat? I am planning to get one at some point

    maine coons have a predisposition to be slightly bigger than most other breeds, but we're not talking a huge difference here. Most other housecat breeds are, like, 8 to 12 pounds when full grown and a maine coon is like 10 to 15. so it really doesn't cost significantly more to feed them and stuff.

    DiscoZombie on
  • AurinAurin Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Another option for applying technology to your litterbox is http://www.litter-robot.com/. I've had one for about 4 or 5 years now, and it's still going strong. Change out the pan once a week and it never smells. The only downside is that my cats tend to smell like litter, but brushing them seems to help that a bit. :)

    Aurin on
  • VisionOfClarityVisionOfClarity Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    My five month old kitten is currently 8 pounds and growing. She's already the size of my roomie's full grown cat and it still growing. I'm just happy it's a girl and not a tom, tom's get huge, like 15-20 pounds huge. It's not about cost to feed when it comes to size, but whether or not you have enough space to keep a large, energetic playful cat happy. My apartment is really big so Dinah has plenty of room to run around and play.

    VisionOfClarity on
  • vytroxvytrox Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Maine Coons are bigger, but it's not as though other cats don't get that big.

    My old cat is like 18-20 pounds, and really really good at killing things.

    To OP: Scratching posts.. depends on the cat, but they will destroy furniture. Getting cats declawed is incredibly evil.

    Also if you do go to a shelter or pet store, don't feel pressured to get a pet on the first visit. We all want to rescue animals, but if it's not a good fit then wait. It's not a bad idea to go to a few places to inquire about health policies and living conditions.

    Edit: 20 lb cats are usually very overweight, my freakish supercat was not though. He caught a bird in midflight! and proceeded to tear it to shreds which was really quite disgusting.

    vytrox on
  • PheezerPheezer Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    The difference is that a Maine Coon can be perfectly healthy and weigh 20 pounds. That's an unhealthy weight for the vast majority of cats. So instead of having a sluggish, lazy 20 pound kitty, you have an energetic, playful 20 pound kitty and there's a difference in the amount of effort that demands.

    Pheezer on
    IT'S GOT ME REACHING IN MY POCKET IT'S GOT ME FORKING OVER CASH
    CUZ THERE'S SOMETHING IN THE MIDDLE AND IT'S GIVING ME A RASH
  • PasserbyePasserbye I am much older than you. in Beach CityRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    First off, a shelter is your best bet in terms of where to get an animal. Pet stores often get their animals from 'farms' whose whole purpose is to just pump out animals for sale, rather than to actually take care of them.

    Secondly, if you want a furry friend but don't want to worry about litter box location (I'm a long-time cat owner, so I know what you mean), why not a rat (another animal I've been a long-time owner of)? They're clean, affectionate, they don't take up much space, and can be trained easily. They're even fully as intelligent as a dog (I've even trained one of my rats to fetch), you can train them to come when you call them and to use a "litter box" corner in their cage, making cleanup easier. As long as you keep their cage in an area where nighttime noises won't disturb your sleep a rat can be a great pet, especially in an apartment.

    The only downside is that they only live 3-4 years and, unless you're willing to spend a lot of time with them, it's better to get two rats so they can keep each other company (rats can actually die from loneliness, since they'll stop eating if they feel lonely).

    edit: I forgot, but if it's only the litter box which is preventing you from getting a kitty, did you know you can train your cat to use the toilet? Strange but true.

    Passerbye on
  • saggiosaggio Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Get yourself a parrot.

    They are superior.

    saggio on
    3DS: 0232-9436-6893
  • MushroomStickMushroomStick Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    About the whole declaw issue: a lot of apartments will not allow cats that aren't declawed. Just be aware of that.


    Also - Yes, parrots are awesome.

    MushroomStick on
  • Aurora BorealisAurora Borealis runs and runs and runs away BrooklynRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    If you get a cat that's unaltered, check and see if your municipal area has a free/cheap spay clinic. I got my cat spayed for 20 dollars plus the cost of a year-long city license. So like, 35 bucks. It was just that I had to show up between 1 and 4 on a second tuesday of the month or something dumb like that. Worth it though, cat got spayed for cheap and I had a set of shiny tags to put on her collar.

    Aurora Borealis on
  • TrowizillaTrowizilla Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    http://petfinder.com/

    There you go. Don't get a cat from a pet store; you'd be supporting breeding mills, which are horrible. (The exception is if the petstore is hosting animals from a reputable rescue; Petsmart often does this.)

    If you change the litter often and scoop it at least once a day, your place won't smell bad.

    Don't let your cat out loose and don't declaw it. If you want your kitty to experience the great outdoors, you can probably train it to walk on a leash with a harness. This works even better for younger cats, as they get used to it quicker. You can easily learn to trim a cat's nails so it doesn't scratch up your stuff, and that added to teaching it to use a scratching post will probably leave your furniture unmolested.

    One of the ways you can keep the cat from smelling bad, keep the litter-box less vile, and cut down on shedding is to feed the cat high-quality food. To find out if a food is high-quality, look at the first five or so ingrediants: these should mostly be actual, named meat, not byproducts, and with as little corn as possible. Cats don't digest corn, so feeding it to them just makes them poop more. The higher-quality food costs a bit more, but you don't have to feed as much of it because it contains less filler.

    Trowizilla on
  • ThylacineThylacine Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Craigslist has a billion animals that always need homes as well. I'd probably suggest going the shelter route. Seems like some people have come across shelters with insane requirements....but most of them out there are good places.

    A good one will usually charge you anywhere from $60-100. The reasoning behind that being 1) if you can't afford that, you can't afford a pet in the first place, 2) If you're willing to pay for something, you should care about it.

    I also recommend the shelter route because I got my both of my cats from a stray who kept having kittens outside of my mom's house. I love my cats...well, one of them (the other we have a live and let live relationship) but man...that "free" cat ended up being a lot more expensive than a shelter cat. First she scratched her eye, which cost a vet bill and medicine...but that could've happened to any cat. But then she turned out to have coccidia, which is pretty common thing but it was resistant so I had to take her there several times. Then I had to get her fixed and all her shots(thankfully austin has an awesome government funded animal clinic for those things).

    But yes...in general they have positively adorable cats and kittens at the shelter that come out cheaper in the long run.

    But really...in the end, despite everyone telling you all of these things...you're probably going to just come across a kitten somewhere you positively love and it really won't matter where it's from :) things seem to happen that way. All kitties need love.

    Thylacine on
  • TrowizillaTrowizilla Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Thylacine wrote: »
    A good one will usually charge you anywhere from $60-100. The reasoning behind that being 1) if you can't afford that, you can't afford a pet in the first place, 2) If you're willing to pay for something, you should care about it.

    Also because shelters generally spend several times the adoption fee getting the cat spayed/neutered, treated for any medical issues, vaccinated, fed, housed, etc.. $60-100 is a real bargain.

    Trowizilla on
  • ThylacineThylacine Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Yeah, I almost put that in there. It is quite a good deal. I am wondering if the people talking about shelters which charged $400 were privately owned and didn't get government funding. :-/ It's hard to get cats into a new place charging $400...but I definitely spend that much on my free kitten. Then again the other first free one I got didn't have any problems except worms, which most cats get at some point. I guess it's just luck of the draw...

    I've never actually gotten a pet from a shelter or a pet store. It seems like whenever I am about to go looking for a pet someone or something finds me.

    Oh, I also forgot to mention. If you do have a specific breed of cat you're interested in just google "(cat type) rescue", and there are plenty of kitties at those places too.

    Thylacine on
  • Blanket of InsecuritiesBlanket of Insecurities Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I've been thinking about getting a cat in the near future as well, but I'm still trying to decide if it's a good idea. I'd definitely go the animal shelter route, but I still have a few questions that need to be answered before I take the step.

    I'm going to be living primarily on my own in an apartment/suite while I attend university (I already have permission from the landlords to have a pet in the apartment). From my experiences with cats when I was younger, they were pretty solitary (seemingly more attached to the house than the owner) but I wonder if it's fair to get one if I'm going to be at university for most of the day five days a week. Is this something I should mention when I start searching for a suitable cat at the shelter? I assume leaving a really social cat alone this much will cause behavioral problems.

    The other issue is money: I can definitely afford the initial cost as well as the monthly/yearly food and vet costs, and I'm already putting away about $50/month for any unexpected bills. What's the worst case scenario as far as veterinarian bills go?

    Aurin wrote: »
    Another option for applying technology to your litterbox is http://www.litter-robot.com/. I've had one for about 4 or 5 years now, and it's still going strong. Change out the pan once a week and it never smells. The only downside is that my cats tend to smell like litter, but brushing them seems to help that a bit. :)

    I've been looking into the Litter-Robot. The smell is my primary issue and it seems like the Litter-Robot addresses that. The biggest complaint I seem to see online about it is that the noise sometimes scares the cats which makes them unlikely to use it again. Is this something you've run into with yours? If it was in a small apartment, would it be noisy enough to wake a relatively-deep sleeper?

    Blanket of Insecurities on
  • vytroxvytrox Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    As far as vet bills go if something really bad happens to your cat the price is basically whatever you are willing to spend.

    As an anecdote my 20lb supercat got sick and I didn't have the heart to put him to sleep so I ended up spending $3000. (I was young and naive and didn't really understand how credit cards worked)

    This will probably not happen to your cat (my cat is still alive 4 years later and doing fine, so I think it was worth it).

    This is why I suggested researching vets before you actually get a pet. Find out about their rates, hours, what to do in case of emergency, etc. Part of the reason why my bill was so high was I did not do this. I ended up going to a veterinary ER that is open 24/7 and supremely expensive.

    The other option was to put the cat to sleep which I understand is fairly affordable (but think of the cost to your soul!).

    I would slightly dissuade you from getting a pet in college since you may not know where you will be living, and what you will be doing for the next 10 years, also for the people suggesting a parrot this is like 40 years.

    vytrox on
  • Blanket of InsecuritiesBlanket of Insecurities Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I've had to put down a family dog before, it was a shitty experience but seeing her suffer was even worse.

    You bring up a good point; as much as I'd like to believe I could work my housing around my pet, that's probably not very realistic. I do, however, have a few trustworthy family members to fall back on in the event that I am forced to move into an apartment that doesn't allow pets.

    How ingrained is a cat's name to them, in most cases? A kitten wouldn't have this problem, obviously, but if I get a cat older than 1 year from a shelter with a boring name, could I theoretically retrain it to respond to another name?

    Blanket of Insecurities on
  • AurinAurin Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I've been looking into the Litter-Robot. The smell is my primary issue and it seems like the Litter-Robot addresses that. The biggest complaint I seem to see online about it is that the noise sometimes scares the cats which makes them unlikely to use it again. Is this something you've run into with yours? If it was in a small apartment, would it be noisy enough to wake a relatively-deep sleeper?

    It's not really that noisy, my husband is a light sleeper, it's in the guest room across the hall from the master bedroom and it doesn't wake him up. The only cat that would refuse to use it was a cat I had that was claustrophobic, all the rest take to it easily. In fact the kitten I found outside who was using a box with a trash-bag in it for a week took to it quick when we let her out into the rest of the house.

    Really, I've had no problems with it, the only thing that tends to slow it down is if you don't change the litter often enough. The ball part of the litter-robot will brush against the full pan, and cover itself in litter-covered poo... but it's easy to empty it and take it out to spray with the hose.

    Once a week is a must, but I've got two full grown cats and a kitten, so it might go longer with just one kitten or cat.

    Aurin on
  • vytroxvytrox Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Cats are much more independent than a dog, and really only respond to anything you do when they want to.

    I didn't even call my cats name, I just made a clicking noise.

    The name is meaningless to the cat, so call it whatever you want.

    vytrox on
  • AurinAurin Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I've had to put down a family dog before, it was a shitty experience but seeing her suffer was even worse.

    You bring up a good point; as much as I'd like to believe I could work my housing around my pet, that's probably not very realistic. I do, however, have a few trustworthy family members to fall back on in the event that I am forced to move into an apartment that doesn't allow pets.

    How ingrained is a cat's name to them, in most cases? A kitten wouldn't have this problem, obviously, but if I get a cat older than 1 year from a shelter with a boring name, could I theoretically retrain it to respond to another name?

    You definitely could retrain it to respond to a different name. My afore-mentioned claustrophobic cat was named Sammy by the shelter, but we renamed him Cipher. Most of the older cats that they get in are strays with no one calling them anything anyways... so I don't think they care too much. :P

    Aurin on
  • Blanket of InsecuritiesBlanket of Insecurities Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Well, that's a relief. I wasn't particularly excited about calling my cat 'Daisy Dukes.'

    No offense if that's your cat's name, anyone.

    Blanket of Insecurities on
  • EggyToastEggyToast Jersey CityRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I "shopped" for cats last year, getting two. Here's my experiences:

    Pet Stores
    Generally these don't sell cats or dogs. If they do, they're "on lease" from the local SPCA or similar. I know it's like this across Maryland and also in Minnesota, and it's unlikely you're going to find a big chain that doesn't do it like that (I know PetCo and Petsmart don't "sell" pets, but have adoptees from the local shelter there). In that case, it's usually no different from going to the shelter, except you can buy food there.

    SPCA
    These go by a few names but are generally state run humane societies where you adopt cats. Prices vary, policies vary, but there's a mix of excess cats and litter cats. Don't assume that picking up a cat from a shelter "saves it from death" as many shelters are going no-kill, and are often full (when a cat leaves, a new one can come in).

    Some cats from the SPCA have personality issues due to having a rough life, while others are happy as clams. Don't pick out a cat unless you can play with it a bit, and make sure to ask about its shots etc.

    Prices vary (local SPCA is $60 for a cat, $100 for kitten), and I'd actually suggest NOT getting a small kitten from the SPCA because you have no idea what it's going to look like in a few months. Get a mostly adult cat, so you fall in love with how your cat is when you pick him or her up, not only for their kitten looks.

    Breeders
    Breeders are great, but expensive. This is not backyard breeders, who should be drowned in the backyard, but registered breeders who focus on specific pedigrees. This is where you find your real Siamese, your Maine Coons, your Abyssinians. Assume that any cat without paperwork is NOT a pedigreed cat. Personally, I'm a big fan of breeders because a professional breeder typically produces some of the most personable, uniquely-personalitied cats, and it makes sense: Breeders focus on it. Every professional breeder will typically be a small operation and will let the kitten stay with the mama cat until the mama cat weans it, and will be playing with it and holding the kitten daily from the time it's born to the time it's sold. That means these cats are very used to being around people, and because they played with mama and their siblings, they know what "play" is and when and where to [not] use their claws.

    Both of my cats are from professional breeders, are registered with CFA and TICA, and it's been just a great experience all around. Of course, a pedigreed cat typically starts at $400 on the low end and can go up to $1000 for popular or rare breeds (like Maine Coons or Egyptian Maus).

    General Advice
    Buy high quality food. Do not buy Whiskas or Friskies or Flippers or whatever the hell the cheap crap is. A high quality food leads to a shinier, softer coat, more energy, less stinky poop and fewer health problems overall. It's no different from any other animal, really, including people -- if you only eat junk food, you're not going to be healthy. And the cheap corn-filled cat food is junk food (corn filler sprayed with chemicals to taste & smell good). Good cat food should contain no grain (no wheat or corn) and wet or dry food should have meats as the main ingredient.

    Avoid Craigslist and "Free Kittens" because these are almost assuredly "kitten factories," where people don't neuter their cats and then try to get rid of excess kittens. They have usually never been to a vet, they're taken away from mama cat way too soon, and by taking these pets you're almost assuredly encouraging them to mistreat their pets. Craigslist does have some "I'm moving and need to get rid of Fluffy" posts which are, of course, just fine, but assume that "free" or "cheap" kittens means "kitten factory."

    Any cat that does NOT have paperwork is NOT a special breed of cat. A can can look like a Siamese cat, but if there's no paperwork, it's just Pointed -- it's not a Siamese. SPCAs will almost always mark all of their cats as "Domestic Short/Long Hair" which means "generic cat," and cats can come in many colors and patterns. Do not let anyone talk you into spending more money on a cat that looks like a pedigreed cat (because it looks that way by pure chance) if there's no paperwork.

    Closing or tl/dr.
    Haha this is like a term paper or something. If you want a fluffy buddy, go to the SPCA and play with the cats there. You should find one that has a good personality that you like, and they should bond with you after a week or so. If you have your heart set on a particular breed, see about local breeders that focus on those cats, but it doesn't sound like you have a particular breed in mind. Avoid "free kittens" or anyone claiming to sell a particular breed w/o paperwork -- in fact, if it's not a shelter or SPCA, ignore it.

    buy good food for the cat.

    EggyToast on
    || Flickr — || PSN: EggyToast
  • VisionOfClarityVisionOfClarity Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    My Maine Coon was from a shelter and really cheap but I know it was a fluke that she was there. It's like when you see Poms in the pound. She was probably dumped but I have no idea who would dump a Maine Coon kitten.

    VisionOfClarity on
  • RubickRubick Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I'm going to be living primarily on my own in an apartment/suite while I attend university (I already have permission from the landlords to have a pet in the apartment). From my experiences with cats when I was younger, they were pretty solitary (seemingly more attached to the house than the owner) but I wonder if it's fair to get one if I'm going to be at university for most of the day five days a week. Is this something I should mention when I start searching for a suitable cat at the shelter? I assume leaving a really social cat alone this much will cause behavioral problems.

    It's perfectly fine to have a cat alone during the day. You should definitely mention this to the shelter when you go looking, they can put you with a cat that is fine being on its own. My own cat only likes me, she hates my dog, and when I watched my brothers cats for a few days, she let me know how much she liked it by pissing on my bed. In short, she's a one-cat kitty. I know she sleeps all day and is awake at night when I'm around.

    Rubick on
  • naporeonnaporeon Seattle, WARegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maine_coon

    EDIT: Haha. I should've known that Maine Coons would have already been mentioned.

    naporeon on
  • RhinoRhino TheRhinLOL Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    GET TWO IF YOU CAN (from the Same Litter)

    My mother, sisters and aunts are all crazy cat women. The one thing I learned, is that it's better to have two [or more] then just one. Preferable from the same litter OR get them both when they are young and around the same age.

    The reason, is that they will play and entrain themselves when you are gone. They will help keep each other exercising and running around. I've found that if you only have one cat, then it gets lazy, fat and doesn't seem as happy as a pair of them.

    Rhino on
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  • VisionOfClarityVisionOfClarity Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Rhino wrote: »
    GET TWO IF YOU CAN (from the Same Litter)

    My mother, sisters and aunts are all crazy cat women. The one thing I learned, is that it's better to have two [or more] then just one. Preferable from the same litter OR get them both when they are young and around the same age.

    The reason, is that they will play and entrain themselves when you are gone. They will help keep each other exercising and running around. I've found that if you only have one cat, then it gets lazy, fat and doesn't seem as happy as a pair of them.

    Or you can pay attention to your pet and play with it when your home and keep it occupied while your gone by giving it toys and a scratching post. Keeping a cat on a balanced diet of non crap cat food will also keep it from getting fat.

    Edit to add: If you're going to regularly be gone for most of the day (in the 12+ hour range) you might want to wait to get a pet until you will have more time to spend with it. There's no point in getting a pet if you'll only see it for 2 hours a night before you go to bed.

    VisionOfClarity on
  • hippofanthippofant ティンク Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    EggyToast wrote: »
    Every professional breeder will typically be a small operation and will let the kitten stay with the mama cat until the mama cat weans it, and will be playing with it and holding the kitten daily from the time it's born to the time it's sold. That means these cats are very used to being around people, and because they played with mama and their siblings, they know what "play" is and when and where to [not] use their claws.

    Oh my god, is this why my roommate's cat scratches the ever living crap out of me (and anybody else who plays with him)? He came from a store (I think) at not even a month old, and I was commenting pretty early on that it didn't seem a great idea that my roommate was training him to attack hands - my roommate'd move to sorta grab the kitten and nudge him backwards on his back. Damn cat even jumped on my leg while I was cooking once... It was a whole lot more adorable when he was wee and not so much when he was like 8 pounds of cat hanging by his claws on my leg.

    hippofant on
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