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I don't have a Welsh Corgi (they're adorable), but I have handled several dogs. I have found that females are far more (note the pun) bitchy, so if you want a more laid back dog, get a male. Females are usually more expensive since they're the ones that bare pups.
I don't know if they would have exactly what you want, but I always suggest a local pound or pet rescue home before going to stores or breeders, you can give those unwanted dogs a second chance.
But, if of course they don't have what you want, go to a breeder. (no stores!)
Also.. be ready to TRAIN the dog, unless it already has been (I would go with those! lol).. My mom has all her runt dogs peeing and pooing on newspapers in her house. I think it's GROSS and it SMELLS. All dogs should GO OUTSIDE.. PLEASE... x_x
Anyway, give us pics when you get your new faithful companion.
People advertising in the classifieds--they are probably ignorant and don't health test
Pet stores--they are fucking evil
Here are places to look:
Breed specific rescues or look on Petfinder.com--you can save a life
or
A reputable breeder--they are knowledgeable about their breed, breeding in general, and do health checks
How to recognize a reputable breeder:
- They're breeding to better the breed, not "because Mitzy is so cute" or for $$$
- They health test the shit out of their dogs. THIS IS VITAL. Especially with corgis and those long backs of theirs.
- The parents are conformation champions, thus proving they are good examples of the breed. (When you see ads that say "from champion lines"? Yeah, that usually means a great-grandparent somewhere back was a champion. Not good enough, the parents themselves should be champions.
- They offer a health guarantee against congenital defects (usually for 2 years.)
- They will demand that you return the dog to them if for whatever reason you can't keep it at any point during your life.
- They will sell puppies with spay/neuter contracts unless the puppy is show quality.
- They absolutely will not send a puppy home with someone before 8 weeks and most will wait until 12 weeks.
Good breeders do usually focus on one breed of dog. (There are some who focus on two, but it's pretty rare . . . Showing even one breed takes up a horrendous amount of time and money.)
Males and females . . . They both make great pets. Males will stop on walks to mark trees, which I find kind of annoying. On the bright side, they usually will not mark furniture after you neuter them. I've heard that when two bitches fight it's far worse/more serious than a male-female fight or two males fighting, something to consider if you ever decide to get two dogs. (Of course some females do fine with other females.) Breeders tend to keep more females than males because a good quality female can be bred using frozen sperm from a quality stud dog across the country or even in another country.
For shots and such: the breeder will tell you what shots they've already done. Then take the info to the vet and they will check the puppy and tell you if there's anything else to be done. At some point you'll want to spay/neuter. Personally, I am a big fan of the pediatric neuter because younger animals recover faster and are less traumatized. But some breeders believe that it may stunt growth and want people to wait until six months old. *shrug*
Edit for a bit more specificness: Here's how I search for good dog breeders. I go to google and type in "[breed of dog] OFA CERF".
OFA is the test for hips and CERF is the test for eyes. Any good breeder will be doing these tests on the parents of the puppies. There is also a test for degenerative myelopathy which is recommended for corgis.
You can also google "Pembroke welsh corgi club of America" which will take you to the AKC's pembroke welsh corgi page, which will have breeder referrals.
I have a Welsh Corgi. His name is Roscoe. He's 8 months old, and I got him from a breeder back in March.
First off, there are a few corgi websites you can check out - there are forums, etc, lots of advice on what to look for in a reputable breeder and all that jazz.
The first thing I'd do is check out rescue groups in your area - you may be able to find a group that you can adopt an adult corgi that is already trained, fixed, all that jazz. I'd also do a search on Petfinder - there are lots of purebreeds that wind up in shelters, and you could find a Corgi near you.
I did check out the resuce here near me, but they didn't seem to be very keen on adopting to someone living in a one-bedroom apartment, and would have a small child around sometimes. I wound up finding a breeder and getting a puppy. You are right in that you should stay away from large pet stores.
When looking for a breeder, there are lots of things to look for - health guarantees, how many times a year they breed their dogs, can you go look at where they keep their dogs, do they handle the dogs at a young age to get them socialized, etc. I paid $350 for my pup, and I didn't do much research into what to look for in a proper breeder. In retrospect, I probably got mine from a backyard breeder. When you get one from a reputable breeder, you can expect to pay more, around $800 most likely for a pup. I would personally look for a local breeder, where you can go and visit the site, see the puppies, and decide which one you want and which one has the personality you want. Good breeders will have a waiting list, and will make you fill out a questionnaire having you describe the dog you want, so they can match one to you personality-wise. Usually you could also go and pick the one you want as well. The puppy should be at least 8 weeks old when you go get it.
I've heard that females are more high-strung and males are more laid back. Rosoce is a male, is really laid-back, but can also be super-hyper. That's something you need to consider about the breed - they are typically really hyper, and you'll need to put time into getting that energy out (like a daily walk or hard play session). I've also heard females bond better with male humans, and males with female humans. I have no idea if that's true, but it does appear that, on initial impressions, Roscoe likes females more than males.
Once you get your dog, you should take it to the vet just to get it checked out. If it's a puppy, the breeder should have given some initial shots/dewormers, and should provide you with those records. If you get a puppy that's 8 weeks old, you'll need three (I think) more visits to the vet for more shots. Then you should get them spay/neutered. Spays typically cost more than a neuter, and you can shop around in your area to get the best price. Usually a local SPCA will do it much cheaper than some private vets. Roscoe's neuter was $100.
If you get a puppy, you should definitely enroll in a training class. I took one at PetSmart ($110 for 8 weeks, 1 hr a week), it helped immensely. It'll teach you how to deal with improper behavior (and you'll have a lot in a Pembroke - chewing, barking, jumping), and will help you to socialize your dog.
If you do get a puppy, prepare yourself. I don't think I'll ever get a puppy again, I'll head straight to the shelter and get an adult dog. He drove me crazy - constant energy, was always all over me, and after I got him I discovered I was allergic, and was constantly itching and sneezing. I was questioning if I was really suited to have a dog, and was thinking about giving him to my mom. Thankfully, I went to the allergist, took some training classes, and now I can't imagine not having him in my life. Read up on those corgi websites, they have lots of good tips for what to expect.
Ok, I think I've covered most of it with my experiences, let me know if you have any more questions.
When my g/f got her Siberian Husky mix, there was a Corgi in the next cage. It was a REALLY hard decision (blue eyes or EIN!?)
Anyways, I don't know much more about them than has already been stated, but every Corgi I've run into (dog parks, walks, whatever) has been REALLY well behaved
Do consider that corgis are a working breed and are therefore quite high-energy. Can you handle giving your dog at least an hour of good, hard exercise every single day for probably at least ten years? Not just a walk, but a run, or a long, intense game, or swimming, etc.. Dogs that don't get enough exercise get very destructive, and corgis are smart enough to think of really, really annoying ways of being destructive. My friend's corgi used to methodically pull up the carpet when she didn't give him enough to do.
If you've never had a pet before, getting a puppy is going to be incredibly hard on you. Why not get an adult dog, one that's already toilet-trained and doesn't have the puppy energy on top of the regular, corgi energy? Use Petfinder to locate a good breed-specific rescue and offer to foster a corgi if you want to see if they're for you without putting the life of a dog on the line; if you fall in love with the dog you foster, you can adopt it and all the better, and if you decide it's too much work right now, you can just wait until the dog gets adopted and decline to foster another.
What are the risks associated with adopting? I know it's a great thing to do and all, but I'm wondering if any extra responsibilities come along with it?
It's actually easier than buying from a breeder. You go to the shelter, point, pay $100, go home with new pet! We got our dog at the shelter and the only real worries you will have are 1) How did the previous owner treat it? and 2) Does it have severe behavioral problems because of that?
Most times, the shelter will be very open about what to expect. For instance, they told us my dog doesn't like car rides. I used a TON of positive reinforcement and now she doesn't mind it (as long as you go under 60 mph)
1ddqd on
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited September 2008
I have a Corgi,
She just turned 8 and I adopted her a year ago from a friend of mine who is adopting a child. The theory being that she wouldn't be good with kids from lack of experience. Turns out she's great with kids, so bonus for me. thing to be careful with is that corgis will try to herd children. This can involve nipping at the heals. So if you see any behavior like that train it out of them before it gets too bad.
Big thing though like everyone has said. Corgis are damned smart. DAMNED smart. You have to be a strong pack leader to keep them in check. Also lots and lots of exercise. Tire them out before you goto work or you will encounter issues.
Also from what I've seen they enjoy barking. Mine goes outside and barks for about 5 minutes at dusk, and from what I've found its an assertive behavior that she's telling everyone that the backyard is hers.
Do training routines, get a lot of tricks down. This is useful to help tire them out and also if the dog is stressing about something doing a trick routine they know will help calm them down.
Shelters and rescue groups are an awesome way to go and cheaper than a breeder. Rescue groups often foster dogs in private homes where the people really get to know them and can tell you a lot about the specific dog's personality. Also they usually do the spay/neuter and vaccinate before giving you a dog, which saves a lot of money. Be sure to look realistically at vet costs when getting a dog . . . There will be a yearly check up, plus the dog could get sick at any point.
LadyM on
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited September 2008
Yea, vet bills are big. Always make sure to have about 1000 dollars to cover any emergencies. I spent about 400 bucks earlier this year when my dogs immune system started attacking her red blood cells. so after 400 dollars worth of tests and medication later shes all better.
It would have been way more if she had needed blood transfusions or a trip to the emergency vet.
i adopted a corgi husky mix about 4 years ago, you will have the herding instinct to deal with for a while. Mine is smart as whip as others have said, although she had trouble with corners for a few years. Also if your dead set on getting a puppy you have to be careful with them on stairs, their big heads mean they are prone to falling down them.
We have a Welsh Corgi too, he's about a year and half right now and we named him Link, complete with a green collar :P
The breeder we went through only had corgis, and showed us both parents of the one we were looking at. They also had vet records and recommendations of when to take him in for his first/second/third set of shots. We got ours when he was about 15 weeks old, most breeders will hesitate or refuse to let one go much earlier than 12.
Make sure you or someone you live with will be ready to get up at night to let them out. Puppies have smaller bladders and usually can't hold it all night. We have crate trained our corgi and he loves sleeping in his "house" while we're at work or at night. We did this originally because he had a habit or gnawing on baseboards and generally messing around with stuff (like any puppy), but even now that he's mellowed out he still loves it.
The crate training really helps with potty training, assuming it's the right size. The dog will consider it their "den" and will not want to go to the bathroom there unless they simply can't wait anymore.
As has been mentioned, be very careful with stairs or long jumps. Especially young, corgis are susceptible to back injuries.
We have a Welsh Corgi too, he's about a year and half right now and we named him Link, complete with a green collar :P
The breeder we went through only had corgis, and showed us both parents of the one we were looking at. They also had vet records and recommendations of when to take him in for his first/second/third set of shots. We got ours when he was about 15 weeks old, most breeders will hesitate or refuse to let one go much earlier than 12.
Make sure you or someone you live with will be ready to get up at night to let them out. Puppies have smaller bladders and usually can't hold it all night. We have crate trained our corgi and he loves sleeping in his "house" while we're at work or at night. We did this originally because he had a habit or gnawing on baseboards and generally messing around with stuff (like any puppy), but even now that he's mellowed out he still loves it.
The crate training really helps with potty training, assuming it's the right size. The dog will consider it their "den" and will not want to go to the bathroom there unless they simply can't wait anymore.
As has been mentioned, be very careful with stairs or long jumps. Especially young, corgis are susceptible to back injuries.
Crate training yes!! a thousand times yes!! My dog is crate trained and it is the awesomest thing ever!
Psychotic OneThe Lord of No PantsParts UnknownRegistered Userregular
edited September 2008
Me and my bro crate trained our Chihuahua's early on and now they run excitedly to it when we let them in. Even if we don't plan to box them up yet. Its their own little personal space and they love it now.
Corgis are a good fun dog. When you get one you might want to look into local sheep herding places. For a fee they will let your corgi pretend to be a farm dog, and supringly they take to it no problem. It's fun for them and you, and they get extra exercise.
Preacher on
I would like some money because these are artisanal nuggets of wisdom philistine.
as a warning, corgis can get a little neurotic. they are fun dogs, we took our friends corgi snowshoeing with us. it was a hoot watching it jump its way through over foot deep powder
as a warning, corgis can get a little neurotic. they are fun dogs, we took our friends corgi snowshoeing with us. it was a hoot watching it jump its way through over foot deep powder
Corgis waddle when they walk because of their long bodies, and they run like rabbits. It's pretty funny to watch. For some reason both our corgi and our parent's corgi mix will go apeshit and just run circles around a table or the lawn for apparently no reason, then stop when they tire themselves out. I assume they like to practice "herding" by making sharp turns quickly.
The above behavior is called "FRAPPING." Frenzied Random Acts of Play, or something like that. My corgi does it, and many do. It's just a way to get out their energy when it's just bursting, I suppose. Mine does it at least once a night.
Corgis are a good fun dog. When you get one you might want to look into local sheep herding places. For a fee they will let your corgi pretend to be a farm dog, and supringly they take to it no problem. It's fun for them and you, and they get extra exercise.
Hah! That sounds very cool
I've finally found a couple of potential breeders in the area that have a couple to sell. Hoping to get one soon, and I'll definetly post pictures if/when I do
Nice, they are a very active dog, but loving. And smart. Also if the corgis we had are any indication. God damn food hounds.
Preacher on
I would like some money because these are artisanal nuggets of wisdom philistine.
Not sure what other peoples' experiences have been like with purebreds, but I've watched my aunt pay both hundreds of dollars initially for them, and then hundreds (even thousands) more for medical bills with every purbred dog she's bought. Whereas we've only ever had mutts bought from farms, none of whom have ever had any medical issues beyond ear infections and all of whom cost us under 50 bucks as puppies. I'm not saying Corgies aren't cute and wonderful, but it might be more practical to look for a mix of Corgi and something else, especially if this is your first pet.
Not sure what other peoples' experiences have been like with purebreds, but I've watched my aunt pay both hundreds of dollars initially for them, and then hundreds (even thousands) more for medical bills with every purbred dog she's bought. Whereas we've only ever had mutts bought from farms, none of whom have ever had any medical issues beyond ear infections and all of whom cost us under 50 bucks as puppies. I'm not saying Corgies aren't cute and wonderful, but it might be more practical to look for a mix of Corgi and something else, especially if this is your first pet.
While it is true that purebreds are more susceptible to certain problems, getting a purebred from a quality line alleviates a lot of the concerns. In my parents' case, their one mutt dog has had a few health problems while their two purebreds have been more or less healthy. Regardless, it's always a good idea to have at least a few hundred (if not more) saved for a pet emergency.
If you've never had a dog before, it's going to be much, much harder if you get a puppy, and it's much more likely that you'll do something wrong and screw up your dog. Puppies are incredibly hard work, much like babies except that babies don't come with a set of sharp teeth and give you some time before they learn to crawl.
Seriously, I know you want a puppy. Everyone wants puppies. Not everyone can deal with puppies, which is why shelters are full of dogs that used to be cute little bundles of fluff and grew up to be large dogs. Bear in mind that corgis are NOT small dogs; they're medium-sized dogs with short legs.
You need to do some thinking. Why do you want a corgi? Is it because they're cute, or because you've researched their personalities and needs and feel that one would fit well with your life? Do you want a puppy because it's cute, or because you're willing to put the massive amount of time into training it that a puppy needs to become a healthy, well-behaved dog? Is someone going to be home with the puppy for the first several weeks? Do you have a plan for if your puppy needs thousands of dollars worth of vet care because it gets sick or eats something poisonous on a walk? Are you going to be willing to walk your dog at least three times a day, every day, and give it at least an hour of hard exercise? What if you have to move to an apartment; will you sacrifice other concerns to find a place that will accept your dog?
Dogs are incredibly rewarding to have as pets, but this is absolutely not something to undertake lightly. Volunteer for a shelter, offer to foster, hell, even get your friends to let you dogsit, but please, please don't get a dog without firsthand experience and thorough planning.
I have to say, after raising our current dog as a puppy and going through all the training he needed, I think the next dog we adopt will probably be older.
Some purebreds have breed-specific health issues which can be somewhat attenuated through a cross with another breed. SO if corgi's tend to have back issues, a cross with a breed that's not so low and long might yield puppies that are less likely to have back problems. Though with crosses, the dog looks and temperment might come from either or both the sire and dam.
I've got a purebred boxer. 12 years would be a longish life expectancy for him. Posssible health issues are heart problems like cardiomyopathy, skin cancers and hips. He needs a lot of exercise, is very active and demands a fair amount of attention. He's got a long puppyhood. He needs many repetitions to learn things. The equivalents of these for corgis you need to find out for yourself so you're better prepared to deal with raising him/her. If you need a place to start check out dogbreedinfo.com; also check out breed-specific sites (take them with a grain of salt as there are a lot of fanatics at these sites/forums).
When raising a pup, you'll need to be patient, even-handed and firm, so as not to re-inforce nuerotic behavior. Dog/human and dog/dog socialization is very important the first 6 months. Bite inhibition needs to be in place by 4 months or so. And special attention during the first 6 months that he/she doesn't have a traumatic experience that might lead to a permanent fear response in certain situations. Go to a vet-recommended puppy calss to find out about these kinds of things.
Be patient when picking a breeder. Kinda shady things in breeders are: they want you to take the pup before 8 weeks, they have a lot of bitches of an age that might drop a litter, they aren't concerned about the owner or home in which they are placing their puppies. I had to look for about 3-4 months before I found a breeder that didn't seem shady to me, and I had to drive 250 miles out to visit him.
A friend bought a shih-tzu pup from a breeder a year ago for about $400. Her teeth came in way late and she's got like 20% kidney function, most likely because it was a puppy-mill and she's inbred to hell. She's a sweetheart, but probably won't make it another year. Hindsight's 20-20, but not doing due diligence in this matter is a recipe for heartache and $$$.
Another shady thing is if a breeder has more than one litter available at a time. Puppies are sooo much work, most breeders will only schedule one litter at a time so they can give them proper attention. Also, it's fairly normal if the father isn't on site; a lot of breeders will look for just the right sire to bring out the best in their bitch. (But if the sire is "the dog down the street", be wary.) The mother should be there, though.
If you do decide to go with a puppy (and personally I would not recommend it for a first time dog owner, but I understand the appeal!), this is a very useful training book: How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With
Yeah, the first impression I'm going to get will be the breeder. I've been talking with one lately, and she seems very knowledgable and kind, so if/when I go to meet her and her corgis, I'm hoping her niceness reflects on her pets.
So far, with the info you've provided, doesn't sound good. Does this breeder do the health certs mentioned earlier? If no health guarantee is offered by the breeder, then look elsewhere. Is the breeder saying you can come get the puppies now (at a month old), or offering to hold one until they are proper age to leave their mother? If the breeder wants you to come get one now, at a month old, stay far away from that breeder - that's way too early to take a pup from it's mom.
Also, AKC registered doesn't mean anything, so don't take that as meaning they are purebred.
Please for the love of god go to a rescue center or pound. You're literally directly causing the needless deaths of animals if you buy from a breeder instead.
Please for the love of god go to a rescue center or pound. You're literally directly causing the needless deaths of animals if you buy from a breeder instead.
I find that assumption to be rather offensive - my wife and I bought our purebred cats (Siberians) from a breeder who finds homes for every single last one of her animals, including retired breeding adults.
We directly caused no death whatsoever, and in fact probably saved lives by supporting someone that uses responsible practices.
The OP needs useful advice, not attempts at a guilt-trip.
Anyway...my thoughts (most definately not professional advice however):
Are they inbred?
AFAIK, the breeder should be able to provide documentation of their pedigree. If they can't, that would be a possible bad sign.
Are they healthy?
How can I tell if they are/aren't?
In general, they should look healthy - good coat, lots of energy, etc.
What if the breeder doesn't offer a health guarantee?
Would not be a good thing, I think. You should also be able to look at immunization records by the time you take them home.
They're only a month old, which also seems early...
I just checked this page for the Welsh Corgi Club of America, and it says puppies should never go home before 8 weeks at the minimum. They need time to be weaned properly, be socialized, etc.
EDIT: Yeah, from what you posted above, it doesn't sound like they're really evil or anything, but still like they probably don't know what they're doing exactly. If you're going to pay the extra to buy from a breeder, you should really find someone that has their stuff down pat.
yea reading that ad makes me think they are people who wanted to breed their corgi since they thought they were great dogs. while not necessarily the typical "backyard breeder" i would definitely look for health clearances on the parents. I would do some research before hand for any genetic diseases a corgi is succeptible to and ask about clearances. if they can't or won't answer, walk away.
Posts
I don't know if they would have exactly what you want, but I always suggest a local pound or pet rescue home before going to stores or breeders, you can give those unwanted dogs a second chance.
But, if of course they don't have what you want, go to a breeder. (no stores!)
Also.. be ready to TRAIN the dog, unless it already has been (I would go with those! lol).. My mom has all her runt dogs peeing and pooing on newspapers in her house. I think it's GROSS and it SMELLS. All dogs should GO OUTSIDE.. PLEASE... x_x
Anyway, give us pics when you get your new faithful companion.
People advertising in the classifieds--they are probably ignorant and don't health test
Pet stores--they are fucking evil
Here are places to look:
Breed specific rescues or look on Petfinder.com--you can save a life
or
A reputable breeder--they are knowledgeable about their breed, breeding in general, and do health checks
How to recognize a reputable breeder:
- They're breeding to better the breed, not "because Mitzy is so cute" or for $$$
- They health test the shit out of their dogs. THIS IS VITAL. Especially with corgis and those long backs of theirs.
- The parents are conformation champions, thus proving they are good examples of the breed. (When you see ads that say "from champion lines"? Yeah, that usually means a great-grandparent somewhere back was a champion. Not good enough, the parents themselves should be champions.
- They offer a health guarantee against congenital defects (usually for 2 years.)
- They will demand that you return the dog to them if for whatever reason you can't keep it at any point during your life.
- They will sell puppies with spay/neuter contracts unless the puppy is show quality.
- They absolutely will not send a puppy home with someone before 8 weeks and most will wait until 12 weeks.
Good breeders do usually focus on one breed of dog. (There are some who focus on two, but it's pretty rare . . . Showing even one breed takes up a horrendous amount of time and money.)
Males and females . . . They both make great pets. Males will stop on walks to mark trees, which I find kind of annoying. On the bright side, they usually will not mark furniture after you neuter them. I've heard that when two bitches fight it's far worse/more serious than a male-female fight or two males fighting, something to consider if you ever decide to get two dogs. (Of course some females do fine with other females.) Breeders tend to keep more females than males because a good quality female can be bred using frozen sperm from a quality stud dog across the country or even in another country.
For shots and such: the breeder will tell you what shots they've already done. Then take the info to the vet and they will check the puppy and tell you if there's anything else to be done. At some point you'll want to spay/neuter. Personally, I am a big fan of the pediatric neuter because younger animals recover faster and are less traumatized. But some breeders believe that it may stunt growth and want people to wait until six months old. *shrug*
Edit for a bit more specificness: Here's how I search for good dog breeders. I go to google and type in "[breed of dog] OFA CERF".
OFA is the test for hips and CERF is the test for eyes. Any good breeder will be doing these tests on the parents of the puppies. There is also a test for degenerative myelopathy which is recommended for corgis.
You can also google "Pembroke welsh corgi club of America" which will take you to the AKC's pembroke welsh corgi page, which will have breeder referrals.
Here's a good breeder who's in Michigan . . . http://www.siteskins.net/keepsakecorgis/1.html
First off, there are a few corgi websites you can check out - there are forums, etc, lots of advice on what to look for in a reputable breeder and all that jazz.
www.mycorgi.com
www.cool2bcorgi.com
The first thing I'd do is check out rescue groups in your area - you may be able to find a group that you can adopt an adult corgi that is already trained, fixed, all that jazz. I'd also do a search on Petfinder - there are lots of purebreeds that wind up in shelters, and you could find a Corgi near you.
I did check out the resuce here near me, but they didn't seem to be very keen on adopting to someone living in a one-bedroom apartment, and would have a small child around sometimes. I wound up finding a breeder and getting a puppy. You are right in that you should stay away from large pet stores.
When looking for a breeder, there are lots of things to look for - health guarantees, how many times a year they breed their dogs, can you go look at where they keep their dogs, do they handle the dogs at a young age to get them socialized, etc. I paid $350 for my pup, and I didn't do much research into what to look for in a proper breeder. In retrospect, I probably got mine from a backyard breeder. When you get one from a reputable breeder, you can expect to pay more, around $800 most likely for a pup. I would personally look for a local breeder, where you can go and visit the site, see the puppies, and decide which one you want and which one has the personality you want. Good breeders will have a waiting list, and will make you fill out a questionnaire having you describe the dog you want, so they can match one to you personality-wise. Usually you could also go and pick the one you want as well. The puppy should be at least 8 weeks old when you go get it.
I've heard that females are more high-strung and males are more laid back. Rosoce is a male, is really laid-back, but can also be super-hyper. That's something you need to consider about the breed - they are typically really hyper, and you'll need to put time into getting that energy out (like a daily walk or hard play session). I've also heard females bond better with male humans, and males with female humans. I have no idea if that's true, but it does appear that, on initial impressions, Roscoe likes females more than males.
Once you get your dog, you should take it to the vet just to get it checked out. If it's a puppy, the breeder should have given some initial shots/dewormers, and should provide you with those records. If you get a puppy that's 8 weeks old, you'll need three (I think) more visits to the vet for more shots. Then you should get them spay/neutered. Spays typically cost more than a neuter, and you can shop around in your area to get the best price. Usually a local SPCA will do it much cheaper than some private vets. Roscoe's neuter was $100.
If you get a puppy, you should definitely enroll in a training class. I took one at PetSmart ($110 for 8 weeks, 1 hr a week), it helped immensely. It'll teach you how to deal with improper behavior (and you'll have a lot in a Pembroke - chewing, barking, jumping), and will help you to socialize your dog.
If you do get a puppy, prepare yourself. I don't think I'll ever get a puppy again, I'll head straight to the shelter and get an adult dog. He drove me crazy - constant energy, was always all over me, and after I got him I discovered I was allergic, and was constantly itching and sneezing. I was questioning if I was really suited to have a dog, and was thinking about giving him to my mom. Thankfully, I went to the allergist, took some training classes, and now I can't imagine not having him in my life. Read up on those corgi websites, they have lots of good tips for what to expect.
Ok, I think I've covered most of it with my experiences, let me know if you have any more questions.
Anyways, I don't know much more about them than has already been stated, but every Corgi I've run into (dog parks, walks, whatever) has been REALLY well behaved
Do consider that corgis are a working breed and are therefore quite high-energy. Can you handle giving your dog at least an hour of good, hard exercise every single day for probably at least ten years? Not just a walk, but a run, or a long, intense game, or swimming, etc.. Dogs that don't get enough exercise get very destructive, and corgis are smart enough to think of really, really annoying ways of being destructive. My friend's corgi used to methodically pull up the carpet when she didn't give him enough to do.
If you've never had a pet before, getting a puppy is going to be incredibly hard on you. Why not get an adult dog, one that's already toilet-trained and doesn't have the puppy energy on top of the regular, corgi energy? Use Petfinder to locate a good breed-specific rescue and offer to foster a corgi if you want to see if they're for you without putting the life of a dog on the line; if you fall in love with the dog you foster, you can adopt it and all the better, and if you decide it's too much work right now, you can just wait until the dog gets adopted and decline to foster another.
It's actually easier than buying from a breeder. You go to the shelter, point, pay $100, go home with new pet! We got our dog at the shelter and the only real worries you will have are 1) How did the previous owner treat it? and 2) Does it have severe behavioral problems because of that?
Most times, the shelter will be very open about what to expect. For instance, they told us my dog doesn't like car rides. I used a TON of positive reinforcement and now she doesn't mind it (as long as you go under 60 mph)
She just turned 8 and I adopted her a year ago from a friend of mine who is adopting a child. The theory being that she wouldn't be good with kids from lack of experience. Turns out she's great with kids, so bonus for me. thing to be careful with is that corgis will try to herd children. This can involve nipping at the heals. So if you see any behavior like that train it out of them before it gets too bad.
Big thing though like everyone has said. Corgis are damned smart. DAMNED smart. You have to be a strong pack leader to keep them in check. Also lots and lots of exercise. Tire them out before you goto work or you will encounter issues.
Also from what I've seen they enjoy barking. Mine goes outside and barks for about 5 minutes at dusk, and from what I've found its an assertive behavior that she's telling everyone that the backyard is hers.
Do training routines, get a lot of tricks down. This is useful to help tire them out and also if the dog is stressing about something doing a trick routine they know will help calm them down.
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I demand pictures if/when you get one.
It would have been way more if she had needed blood transfusions or a trip to the emergency vet.
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The breeder we went through only had corgis, and showed us both parents of the one we were looking at. They also had vet records and recommendations of when to take him in for his first/second/third set of shots. We got ours when he was about 15 weeks old, most breeders will hesitate or refuse to let one go much earlier than 12.
Make sure you or someone you live with will be ready to get up at night to let them out. Puppies have smaller bladders and usually can't hold it all night. We have crate trained our corgi and he loves sleeping in his "house" while we're at work or at night. We did this originally because he had a habit or gnawing on baseboards and generally messing around with stuff (like any puppy), but even now that he's mellowed out he still loves it.
The crate training really helps with potty training, assuming it's the right size. The dog will consider it their "den" and will not want to go to the bathroom there unless they simply can't wait anymore.
As has been mentioned, be very careful with stairs or long jumps. Especially young, corgis are susceptible to back injuries.
I heard you liek
Crate training yes!! a thousand times yes!! My dog is crate trained and it is the awesomest thing ever!
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which is why you get them spayed or neutered
jeez bob barker is off the air a year and people have already begun to forget.
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Corgis waddle when they walk because of their long bodies, and they run like rabbits. It's pretty funny to watch. For some reason both our corgi and our parent's corgi mix will go apeshit and just run circles around a table or the lawn for apparently no reason, then stop when they tire themselves out. I assume they like to practice "herding" by making sharp turns quickly.
Nice, they are a very active dog, but loving. And smart. Also if the corgis we had are any indication. God damn food hounds.
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While it is true that purebreds are more susceptible to certain problems, getting a purebred from a quality line alleviates a lot of the concerns. In my parents' case, their one mutt dog has had a few health problems while their two purebreds have been more or less healthy. Regardless, it's always a good idea to have at least a few hundred (if not more) saved for a pet emergency.
Seriously, I know you want a puppy. Everyone wants puppies. Not everyone can deal with puppies, which is why shelters are full of dogs that used to be cute little bundles of fluff and grew up to be large dogs. Bear in mind that corgis are NOT small dogs; they're medium-sized dogs with short legs.
You need to do some thinking. Why do you want a corgi? Is it because they're cute, or because you've researched their personalities and needs and feel that one would fit well with your life? Do you want a puppy because it's cute, or because you're willing to put the massive amount of time into training it that a puppy needs to become a healthy, well-behaved dog? Is someone going to be home with the puppy for the first several weeks? Do you have a plan for if your puppy needs thousands of dollars worth of vet care because it gets sick or eats something poisonous on a walk? Are you going to be willing to walk your dog at least three times a day, every day, and give it at least an hour of hard exercise? What if you have to move to an apartment; will you sacrifice other concerns to find a place that will accept your dog?
Dogs are incredibly rewarding to have as pets, but this is absolutely not something to undertake lightly. Volunteer for a shelter, offer to foster, hell, even get your friends to let you dogsit, but please, please don't get a dog without firsthand experience and thorough planning.
I've got a purebred boxer. 12 years would be a longish life expectancy for him. Posssible health issues are heart problems like cardiomyopathy, skin cancers and hips. He needs a lot of exercise, is very active and demands a fair amount of attention. He's got a long puppyhood. He needs many repetitions to learn things. The equivalents of these for corgis you need to find out for yourself so you're better prepared to deal with raising him/her. If you need a place to start check out dogbreedinfo.com; also check out breed-specific sites (take them with a grain of salt as there are a lot of fanatics at these sites/forums).
When raising a pup, you'll need to be patient, even-handed and firm, so as not to re-inforce nuerotic behavior. Dog/human and dog/dog socialization is very important the first 6 months. Bite inhibition needs to be in place by 4 months or so. And special attention during the first 6 months that he/she doesn't have a traumatic experience that might lead to a permanent fear response in certain situations. Go to a vet-recommended puppy calss to find out about these kinds of things.
Be patient when picking a breeder. Kinda shady things in breeders are: they want you to take the pup before 8 weeks, they have a lot of bitches of an age that might drop a litter, they aren't concerned about the owner or home in which they are placing their puppies. I had to look for about 3-4 months before I found a breeder that didn't seem shady to me, and I had to drive 250 miles out to visit him.
A friend bought a shih-tzu pup from a breeder a year ago for about $400. Her teeth came in way late and she's got like 20% kidney function, most likely because it was a puppy-mill and she's inbred to hell. She's a sweetheart, but probably won't make it another year. Hindsight's 20-20, but not doing due diligence in this matter is a recipe for heartache and $$$.
Another shady thing is if a breeder has more than one litter available at a time. Puppies are sooo much work, most breeders will only schedule one litter at a time so they can give them proper attention. Also, it's fairly normal if the father isn't on site; a lot of breeders will look for just the right sire to bring out the best in their bitch. (But if the sire is "the dog down the street", be wary.) The mother should be there, though.
If you do decide to go with a puppy (and personally I would not recommend it for a first time dog owner, but I understand the appeal!), this is a very useful training book: How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With
Take pictures!!
I want to see corgi puppies!
So far, with the info you've provided, doesn't sound good. Does this breeder do the health certs mentioned earlier? If no health guarantee is offered by the breeder, then look elsewhere. Is the breeder saying you can come get the puppies now (at a month old), or offering to hold one until they are proper age to leave their mother? If the breeder wants you to come get one now, at a month old, stay far away from that breeder - that's way too early to take a pup from it's mom.
Also, AKC registered doesn't mean anything, so don't take that as meaning they are purebred.
I find that assumption to be rather offensive - my wife and I bought our purebred cats (Siberians) from a breeder who finds homes for every single last one of her animals, including retired breeding adults.
We directly caused no death whatsoever, and in fact probably saved lives by supporting someone that uses responsible practices.
The OP needs useful advice, not attempts at a guilt-trip.
Anyway...my thoughts (most definately not professional advice however):
AFAIK, the breeder should be able to provide documentation of their pedigree. If they can't, that would be a possible bad sign.
In general, they should look healthy - good coat, lots of energy, etc.
Would not be a good thing, I think. You should also be able to look at immunization records by the time you take them home.
I just checked this page for the Welsh Corgi Club of America, and it says puppies should never go home before 8 weeks at the minimum. They need time to be weaned properly, be socialized, etc.
EDIT: Yeah, from what you posted above, it doesn't sound like they're really evil or anything, but still like they probably don't know what they're doing exactly. If you're going to pay the extra to buy from a breeder, you should really find someone that has their stuff down pat.