I bought a Play-n-Charge kit at Wal-Mart about a month ago for $5, on clearance. It was black and my controller is white but that doesn't really matter, it was an excellent deal.
My question is, however, how long are this things supposed to last? I've charged it maybe 5 times and it no longer seems to take a charge anymore. In the end it's not a big deal because at least now I have a cable that I can physically connect to my 360 with so at least I can use the controller.
I use energizer rechargeable batteries and they are extremely durable. I don't know much about those recharge kits but it seems to me the $20 I've spent works much better.
I've killed a P&C battery before, but it lasted a good long while -- like a year and a half. But the one I bought to replace it, about six or eight months ago, is dying now. I charged it for several hours last night and it didn't do anything.
So I'd say invest in some rechargable AAs and a charger, 'cause it works a hell of a lot better.
I use energizer rechargeable batteries and they are extremely durable. I don't know much about those recharge kits but it seems to me the $20 I've spent works much better.
Same here. Just pick up some rechargeable batteries. It especially works out if you have a Wii or other consoles, remotes, portables, that use AA batteries since that way you can loot batteries from your other stuff while they are recharging.
I got a wireless controller with a P&C kit in... oh, I think February of '06, and I've only just now started noticing the battery holding less and less of a charge.
It should turn itself off if it's overcharging. Try fully powercycling it. When it runs out, turn it on again and it might last for another half hour or so.
Willeth on
@vgreminders - Don't miss out on timed events in gaming! @gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
A defective battery isn't guaranteed to create an end-of-charge signal strong enough to terminate the charge, and if it has either a timer or thermal cutoff then it is only there to keep it from starting a fire or causing the batteries to leak/explode, not keep the batteries at a temperature that won't shorten their lifespan.
I use energizer rechargeable batteries and they are extremely durable. I don't know much about those recharge kits but it seems to me the $20 I've spent works much better.
Same here. Just pick up some rechargeable batteries. It especially works out if you have a Wii or other consoles, remotes, portables, that use AA batteries since that way you can loot batteries from your other stuff while they are recharging.
I like Eneloops, and I much prefer using rechargeable AAs instead of something that is only going to work with one device. The batteries cost half as much as Microsoft's battery packs, too.
Barrakketh on
Rollers are red, chargers are blue....omae wa mou shindeiru
A defective battery isn't guaranteed to create an end-of-charge signal strong enough to terminate the charge, and if it has either a timer or thermal cutoff then it is only there to keep it from starting a fire or causing the batteries to leak/explode, not keep the batteries at a temperature that won't shorten their lifespan.
I use energizer rechargeable batteries and they are extremely durable. I don't know much about those recharge kits but it seems to me the $20 I've spent works much better.
Same here. Just pick up some rechargeable batteries. It especially works out if you have a Wii or other consoles, remotes, portables, that use AA batteries since that way you can loot batteries from your other stuff while they are recharging.
I like Eneloops, and I much prefer using rechargeable AAs instead of something that is only going to work with one device. The batteries cost half as much as Microsoft's battery packs, too.
I use the Energizers for my Wiimote, actually. Those are good too.
I am going to recommend using regular rechargeables as well.
For some reason, I can only find this charger for 40+ now but I bought it for 30 about a year or so ago from newegg, I think.
Make sure that you are letting the 360 charge the battery fully. On my system, if I turn off the console whilst charging, it stops charging. And the next time I turn it on it says it's fully charged but it actually isn't. After letting it run down (to the point it disconnects two or three times) I let it charge completely before turning the system off.
It could be a broken battery (Why would Wal-Mart mark a P&C kit for $5 clearance anyway? It's not like they've been discontinued...) and individual batteries aren't that expensive to replace. It could even be the cable itself. Maybe try swapping cable use with somebody who has a P&C kit to see if either piece is the problem.
I've had mine since a month after the 360 launched and whilst my 360 has died 3 times (been replaced obviously), the P&C and battery pack still work. That said the charge tends to drain though. Say if I charge it now and tomorrow morning take the cabel out. Whther or not I'm using the controller it'll still drain the battery.
Man, I dunno what the fuck is going on then. The controller works with the battery in and the cable plugged in, but the moment I unplug the charging cable the controller is just absolutely dead.
I am going to recommend using regular rechargeables as well.
For some reason, I can only find this charger for 40+ now but I bought it for 30 about a year or so ago from newegg, I think.
If you go to the Penny Arcade Forums root page, scroll down to Accumulated Forum Knowledge in the Archives section and look for the battery thread. Good info in there if you don't mind rooting around a bit.
Woodroez on
0
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Nah the issue with the P&C cable is that it doesn't transmit data. So if you have a wireless controller and want to plug it into your PC that won't be a solution for you.
Willeth on
@vgreminders - Don't miss out on timed events in gaming! @gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
In the end it's not a big deal because at least now I have a cable that I can physically connect to my 360 with so at least I can use the controller.
The bad news is that the cable is only for charging the battery. If you remove the battery, the cable won't do anything for you.
Sorry.
Wrong. Since my P&C battery died, I've had the cable in the controller without any batteries for several months now.
I can confirm this. I bought my battery pack about 2 years ago. I pick up the controller one day a few months ago, and it was dead. I'd connect it to the cable to charge, but it would turn green after only 3 seconds, and it couldn't even hold a charge that long. Now, the light on the cable doesn't even go on. It still works perfectly though.
I was slightly annoyed that the damn thing could just die out of the blue like that, with zero warning. But I haven't been arsed to replace since I really don't mind the cable at all. Wireless is a convenience, but not a requirement with my setup.
The Wolfman on
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
Man, I dunno what the fuck is going on then. The controller works with the battery in and the cable plugged in, but the moment I unplug the charging cable the controller is just absolutely dead.
The charging cable will power your controller even with a completely dead battery. It sounds like the battery won't take a charge any more.
Personally, I like the convenience of the play & charge system. Rechargeable AA's might be cheaper in the long run, but you always have to have a spare set charged up. If you forget, you're stuck with dead batteries. With p&c, you just plug in and keep playing.
Personally, I like the convenience of the play & charge system. Rechargeable AA's might be cheaper in the long run, but you always have to have a spare set charged up. If you forget, you're stuck with dead batteries. With p&c, you just plug in and keep playing.
Unless the cable is really fucking long that would be more inconvenient for me than having some extra batteries laying around. I understand that a good deal of the people here probably are within five or so feet of their monitor/TV, but staying that close to a 42"+ TV isn't exactly comfortable or practical. I know my standard GCN controller can't reach the couch in the room with the smallest HDTV I own (42"), so the Play & Charge kit might be too short for me.
And it's not like AA's have to be completely dead before you can charge them. If you think they are getting low (or whatever they are in has a battery indicator) just put them on the charger. They charge much quicker than the Play & Charge, and my charger is capable of charging 4 2,000 mAh AA's in an hour (for two controllers) which is faster than the Quick Charge kit with one battery (two hours) or two batteries (four hours). I usually charge them slower than that though since it prolongs their useful life :P
Barrakketh on
Rollers are red, chargers are blue....omae wa mou shindeiru
I'd say the cable was around 15 feet. Can't find any specs online. YMMV.
External chargers might be faster to charge the batteries, except that you don't have to wait for the batteries to charge first on the P&C. You plug in and keep playing. That convenience is worth the trade-off in my opinion.
Man, I dunno what the fuck is going on then. The controller works with the battery in and the cable plugged in, but the moment I unplug the charging cable the controller is just absolutely dead.
The charging cable will power your controller even with a completely dead battery. It sounds like the battery won't take a charge any more.
Personally, I like the convenience of the play & charge system. Rechargeable AA's might be cheaper in the long run, but you always have to have a spare set charged up. If you forget, you're stuck with dead batteries. With p&c, you just plug in and keep playing.
Huh. I figured it would last more than 5 charge cycles though.
I've had this same problem with a blue battery pack I got from Target clearance. I already had 2 other battery packs with the charge cable. The blue one never really held a charge. I had paired it with a Halo controller I also got on clearance at Kmart, since it was the only controller I had without a battery pack. After this, I put one of the good packs in the Halo controller, and I'm starting to notice it holding less of a charge.
Is it possible for a specific controller to kill a battery faster? I'm not sure how it would work. The other controller can't seem to charge the blue pack either.
Personally, I like the convenience of the play & charge system. Rechargeable AA's might be cheaper in the long run, but you always have to have a spare set charged up. If you forget, you're stuck with dead batteries. With p&c, you just plug in and keep playing.
Unless the cable is really fucking long that would be more inconvenient for me than having some extra batteries laying around. I understand that a good deal of the people here probably are within five or so feet of their monitor/TV, but staying that close to a 42"+ TV isn't exactly comfortable or practical. I know my standard GCN controller can't reach the couch in the room with the smallest HDTV I own (42"), so the Play & Charge kit might be too short for me.
And it's not like AA's have to be completely dead before you can charge them. If you think they are getting low (or whatever they are in has a battery indicator) just put them on the charger. They charge much quicker than the Play & Charge, and my charger is capable of charging 4 2,000 mAh AA's in an hour (for two controllers) which is faster than the Quick Charge kit with one battery (two hours) or two batteries (four hours). I usually charge them slower than that though since it prolongs their useful life :P
Well bear in mind that the GameCube controller cords were criminally short. After a very unscientific quick check, the P&C cable is roughly 30cm longer than a PS2 pad cable.
Willeth on
@vgreminders - Don't miss out on timed events in gaming! @gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
I was having the same issue recently. I have two battery packs and one charging cable, so it was pretty lame when one of the batteries stopped taking a charge! OH, and a side note, only one of the batteries color matches the controller, so I don't think that color has anything to do with the drain. Well, after not playing my 360 for about a month, < I know blasphemy, I tried turning on the system with the controller that had a good battery. NOTHING HAPPENED AT ALL! I plugged in the charger cable and my controller turns on with the system like usual. Then the charging light went from "holy shite I'm dead red" to "It's all good green"?! I hit that glorious green X button in the middle of the controller and to my surprise my controller was FULL! WOOT! In a fit of Celebration I unplugged and threw the cable from my wireless controller. {Please Reconnect Controller} Appeared the across my screen. The controller was off as soon as the cable left my hands... Like a broken record I plugged the cable back in and within a matter of seconds the charging light changed back to green. But I noticed something, the light seemed to stay charging slightly longer than before... With lightning fast reflexes I unplugged and replugged the cable back in, again this time the charging light stayed on longer than before, but as if it was mocking me that damn light returned to its FAUX green again. Well, either out of spite or anger, I continued to disconnect the cable as soon as it turned green and then reconnect it to charge. Each time the charging light stayed on longer and longer. Soon the game was over, the controller succumbed, I was the victor! I honestly do not remember how long or how many times I did the cable swap, but the charging light was finally staying on. After a full nights charge, my controller now reads full power and turns on and off at MY will. So I assume, like jump starting a car battery that hates you, you just need to play with it.
Oh and for the record, I've had these batteries for over 6 months and have recharged them over 10 times at least, and as long as I let them fully discharge and fully recharge I still get at least 6 hrs of constant play before having to connect the cable.
Verdict- Play and charge kits are awesome, screw batteries....
Sounds like the battery had a "memory" and you did exactly what it takes to get a full charge again. It's why the rule of thumb is to let rechargeable batteries wear all the way down before charging them again.
I much prefer using rechargeable AAs instead of something that is only going to work with one device. The batteries cost half as much as Microsoft's battery packs, too.
Half the cost and it works in everything. NiMH AAs FTW!
Also, I've never need to stop playing because the batteries die. Worst case, I pirate some from the DVD remote or something - I won't need them while I'm playing, and I can just swap them out once the charge is done.
Posts
So I'd say invest in some rechargable AAs and a charger, 'cause it works a hell of a lot better.
I never asked for this!
Switch: 6200-8149-0919 / Wii U: maximumzero / 3DS: 0860-3352-3335 / eBay Shop
@gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
I like Eneloops, and I much prefer using rechargeable AAs instead of something that is only going to work with one device. The batteries cost half as much as Microsoft's battery packs, too.
I use the Energizers for my Wiimote, actually. Those are good too.
For some reason, I can only find this charger for 40+ now but I bought it for 30 about a year or so ago from newegg, I think.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817355018
It's a good product and if you have enough stuff you need batteries for it is worth it.
It could be a broken battery (Why would Wal-Mart mark a P&C kit for $5 clearance anyway? It's not like they've been discontinued...) and individual batteries aren't that expensive to replace. It could even be the cable itself. Maybe try swapping cable use with somebody who has a P&C kit to see if either piece is the problem.
Do not engage the Watermelons.
The bad news is that the cable is only for charging the battery. If you remove the battery, the cable won't do anything for you.
Sorry.
https://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197970666737/
Switch: 6200-8149-0919 / Wii U: maximumzero / 3DS: 0860-3352-3335 / eBay Shop
Wrong. Since my P&C battery died, I've had the cable in the controller without any batteries for several months now.
I use this one:
I paid $60 for it, NewEgg has them for $70.
I never asked for this!
Weird, my bad... the way it was always described was "no battery, no workie."
https://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197970666737/
@gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
I can confirm this. I bought my battery pack about 2 years ago. I pick up the controller one day a few months ago, and it was dead. I'd connect it to the cable to charge, but it would turn green after only 3 seconds, and it couldn't even hold a charge that long. Now, the light on the cable doesn't even go on. It still works perfectly though.
I was slightly annoyed that the damn thing could just die out of the blue like that, with zero warning. But I haven't been arsed to replace since I really don't mind the cable at all. Wireless is a convenience, but not a requirement with my setup.
The charging cable will power your controller even with a completely dead battery. It sounds like the battery won't take a charge any more.
Personally, I like the convenience of the play & charge system. Rechargeable AA's might be cheaper in the long run, but you always have to have a spare set charged up. If you forget, you're stuck with dead batteries. With p&c, you just plug in and keep playing.
Unless the cable is really fucking long that would be more inconvenient for me than having some extra batteries laying around. I understand that a good deal of the people here probably are within five or so feet of their monitor/TV, but staying that close to a 42"+ TV isn't exactly comfortable or practical. I know my standard GCN controller can't reach the couch in the room with the smallest HDTV I own (42"), so the Play & Charge kit might be too short for me.
And it's not like AA's have to be completely dead before you can charge them. If you think they are getting low (or whatever they are in has a battery indicator) just put them on the charger. They charge much quicker than the Play & Charge, and my charger is capable of charging 4 2,000 mAh AA's in an hour (for two controllers) which is faster than the Quick Charge kit with one battery (two hours) or two batteries (four hours). I usually charge them slower than that though since it prolongs their useful life :P
External chargers might be faster to charge the batteries, except that you don't have to wait for the batteries to charge first on the P&C. You plug in and keep playing. That convenience is worth the trade-off in my opinion.
Huh. I figured it would last more than 5 charge cycles though.
Switch: 6200-8149-0919 / Wii U: maximumzero / 3DS: 0860-3352-3335 / eBay Shop
Is it possible for a specific controller to kill a battery faster? I'm not sure how it would work. The other controller can't seem to charge the blue pack either.
Well bear in mind that the GameCube controller cords were criminally short. After a very unscientific quick check, the P&C cable is roughly 30cm longer than a PS2 pad cable.
@gamefacts - Totally and utterly true gaming facts on the regular!
Oh and for the record, I've had these batteries for over 6 months and have recharged them over 10 times at least, and as long as I let them fully discharge and fully recharge I still get at least 6 hrs of constant play before having to connect the cable.
Verdict- Play and charge kits are awesome, screw batteries....
Also, I've never need to stop playing because the batteries die. Worst case, I pirate some from the DVD remote or something - I won't need them while I'm playing, and I can just swap them out once the charge is done.