As per thread title, I'm planning a trip to New York City. I'd like some advice and critiques on my planning, if some New Yorkers or fellow travelers have them. Plans are divided into sections, spoilered for size.
Lodgings:
This trip is pretty far in the future, sometime in May, but I want to book my hostel and tickets pretty soon. I'm open to suggestions for hostels or any other lodgings, I've read about several online but personal opinions are always nice. I would prefer to stay in Manhattan, but if there is an amazing place somewhere else I will consider it. I will be in a group of 2 or 3, if it matters. I've put aside $250 for my lodgings, hostel style, does that sound right?
Transportation:
Getting to New York:
I'm going to travel to NYC by Megabus from Toronto to save cash (Woot sub 80 dollar round ticket) and because I love scenery. I'm not that intimidated by long bus rides, I've had my fair share, but if there is something that I should know about Megabus please tell me. I have a Canadian Passport, so I don't need to worry identification when crossing the border. I've only crossed by car, and that was before 9/11 so I have no idea about crossing with a bus. Are there more security checks? Anything I should worry about that way?
Moving about New York City:
I've decided that I will be getting a 7 day unlimited MetroCard to get around the city, mainly because it is easy than carrying change and will probably be cheaper in the long run. If I understand it correctly, one simply swipes/inserts the card and proceeds? A dilemma emerges between subway and bus, advantage towards subway for speed, advantage to bus for knowing where one is. How hard is it to get onto the subway or bus? Can one avoid a rush hour? Are there maps with stations and routes available for sale?
Things to see:
This is the big one, I need advice on how long it would take for me to see all of the things on my list, and if it will take less/more than 5 days. I was planning on seeing the following things, kind of ranked in order of importance. I'm a big history/architecture buff and, if there is a museum, I like to read a lot of what is in it. Ranked from highest to lowest:
Empire State Building (at night, non-peak hour)
Central Park
American Museum of Natural History
New York Public Library
United Nations
World Trade Center Site
Times Square
Rockefeller Plaza
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Coney Island
Ellis Island
Bronx Zoo (this is really only if I get really bored and if my friends want to go, I don't like zoos too much)
Is it possible to fit all of these things in a week? Some of these things involve just looking around for a while, which means I can get them done fairly quickly, so I'm worried I'll be left over with nothing to do but go for walks (which I'll love doing, either way). Are there any major attractions I'm missing, times I should go, things I should skip? I'll be doing some research pricing wise later, but would $125-$150 USD be sufficient for entrance to all the attractions?
Miscellaneous:
I enjoy tobacco, and my fine province likes to trample the rights of business owners, so I have yet to enjoy a cigar/pipe indoors. Are cigar lounges around? How old must one be to enter one? Are they open to the public or must one be a member? How are tobacco taxes in New York State? Any recommendations on lounges or tobacconists?
Food is obviously necessary, and New York has a ton of ethnic food. I'll try the pizza, I'll partake in street meat (Toronto street meat is sooooo good, so I imagine New York's is on the same level) but from there I haven't much of a clue. As long as it isn't sushi (I've eaten it too many times) or spicy, I'm willing to try it, but I am on a budget. I'll be doing the cereal and fruit thing for breakfast but lunch and dinner will probably be eaten out. I've given myself a budget of $125 for food. Does that sound about right? Any places I should go for Pizza or other foods?
I've budgeted that this entire trip (Lodging, transport, food, attractions, souvenirs/shopping) will cost me somewhere in the vicinity of 670-720 USD, does that sound about right?
Thank you all very much in advance! If only a few questions get answered or advised upon I will be a happy man.
Posts
Central Park < it really is just a park, lots of dogs
American Museum of Natural History < rocks
New York Public Library < never went
United Nations < really good tours
World Trade Center Site < honestly its just a hole in the ground
Times Square < really cool to see the first time, but not allot to do without buying stuff
Rockefeller Plaza < never went
Metropolitan Museum of Art < guggenheim is really good too
Coney Island < shadow of its former self
Ellis Island < very cool if you had family come through it, otherwise its just a museum
Bronx Zoo < pretty good zoo
^ you could prolly do it all in one week but you would lose out on the exploring of new york, china town is great by the way.
subway is the fastest and easiest to get around with, also i always found it easier then finding a bus.
Lodgings: keep in mind Manhattan is prolly the most expensive place to stay in NYC, just check out priceline.
$125 is a low estimate of food in NYC for a week, especially if you want to experience a wide variety also expect to pay out the ass for cigs and well pretty much everything sales tax is a bitch. Also if you want to get clothes and such cheaper cross the GWB into teaneck and go to the pallisades mall, although beware that Bergen county has all stores closed sundays.
And there are other handy threads in the archive as well:
This One
Where to eat
Some more
Even more
And... More
We just booked our hostel, which costs us about €20,5 a head a night, altough it is a room for six persons..
Then again, my Link coffee mug IS kind of cool...
I'd go to Rockefeller if I were you. Hit up the NBC store. Get tickets to a taping of Letterman at the Ed Sullivan theater. Maybe see Ground Zero and the Statue of Liberty, too.
I can has cheezburger, yes?
Also, you should be booking an apartment through here.
Staying in a furnished apartment in the middle of the city is where its at: cheaper, and way cooler than a hotel room.
If the giant Christmas tree is up in Rockefeller it is a must see. Some people may swear against the experience, but it is a NYC tradition. The streak is broken, but for many years a bunch of friends and I would go into the city on December 23rd for our xmas Eve eve! celebration and end the night by going to see the tree. It just gives me that warm fuzzy holiday spirit.
Steam
XBOX
Subway is always easiest, I only take buses every now and then when I need to go crosstown (east-west, since most subway lines go north southish). Google maps now has ways to search things by transit though, which is fantastico.
Walking the Brooklyn bridge is nice if the weather is suitable.
Bronx has sweet botanical gardens, also if weather is suitable (so does Brooklyn).
If you're on a budget, the bus is great because you get free transfers (if you ride both a subway and a bus within a two or three hour period, the second of the two is free), but since you're getting an unlimited card this is irrelevant.
The most important advice I would give is to not overschedule yourself. My favorite thing about NY isn't any of the specific landmarks or things but simply the feel of the city itself. You can go to a zoo or a natural history museum anywhere, but there's no place in the world like the streets of NY. Personally, I'd research the different areas of Manhattan and pick a few to spend some time just wandering around: the East Village, Chelsea, the Upper West Side, whatever sounds interesting.
If you go to the Bronx Zoo (which is great) You'll be near the old Italian Section of the Bronx (Arthur Ave.) in which there are some phenominal Italian Restaurants. I highly recommend Dominick's (which is family style), Mario's, or Roberto's.
stawk: No cigs for me, so I don't need to worry about that. I'll up the food budget then, I'll be dining cheap but I can see how it will add up. Could anyone give me a rough cost for a meal and drink in a pizza place, Chinese place, and Indian place? Roughly 10-15 dollars a meal?
The_Glad_Hatter: Thanks for those links, I'm reading them over slowly. I hope your trip goes well.
JaysonFour: Not a big gamer so I won't be going to Nintendo World, and I don't think I can afford tickets so I'll pass. I'll take a walk pass ground zero, but I think I'll just enjoy the Statue of Liberty from the shore.
Daemonion: Renting an entire apartment is mad expensive and I don't plan on staying inside of my living space very long so I think I'll pass on that. I do like graveyards though, so I will ty and check out Brooklyn Graveyard if I have the time.
truck-a-sauras: I'm going in May :P. Though going to NYC in the Christmas Season is a future plan...
Shazkar Shadowstorm: Good thing about the MegaBus, I was worried thinking it was a scam of sorts. Also; it is good to know about the Google Maps deal, along with the orientation of the lines for subways and buses.
DeathPrawn Yeah, I do like just walking around so I will probably devote a certain portion of each day to just exploring. Any specific neighbourhoods to ignore, safety wise? I know NYC is really safe compared to most places, but should I avoid certain sections anyways?
oldsak: I've been hearing about the demise of Coney Island, I'll put it near the end and go if I have time. I really don't like zoos, but the Italian area sounds nice. What is the rough cost of those places, if you don't mind my asking.
Go to Cafe Grumpy or 9th Street Espresso for some of the best yumminess in coffeeworld ever
And Megabus isn't a scam, at least so far, I've taken several trips for just $1
Tobacco taxes here are ridiculous. It's essentially 9 dollars for a pack of cigarettes, so if you're going to smoke bring your own cigarettes. That being said, there are plenty of good hookah and cigar lounges around the city. I live in the Village and around me theres LuXor Hookah Lounge on McDougal that's pretty good and if you don't mind flamboyancy then you can check out places down by Christopher street and Bleeker. I know of a Cigar Lounge on Lafayette St. down by Canal but I forget the name. Good luck!
I believe that lounge is the Three Little Indians, does it have a knife shop above it?
Oh, and are hookah and cigar lounges 21 and up? I know smoking age is 18, but many serve liquor so... It isn't a problem for me, but some buddy that is coming with me might be left out in the cold.
They're 18 to get in, but I have yet to encounter a hookah or cigar lounge that has carded me (alcohol too). As long as you don't have 6 high school students with you, you should be fine. And I think it is the Three Little Indians because I seem to recall a wooden statue of a Native American standing outside of the shop.
Also, I would scrap the whole touristy thing. I mean, you should totally see the Empire State Building and Ellis Island and whatnot but theres plenty of better stuff to do. Definitely go to the MET, and if you have time check out the MoMa and the Aquarium. Don't shy away from Broadway either, the plays are actually really good even if you happen to have a penis. Don't be afraid to check out the bars down by the Village, I especially enjoy Fat Cat and Four Faced Liar. For food, you need to try Serendipity 3 (255 E 60th St, I know its the Upper-East Side, but it's price is worth it) or Buddakan in the Meat Packing district.
Most of Manhattan is very safe. Unless you're going VERY far uptown or downtown, you don't need to worry. Other than that, it's just basic rules about being in a large city. Be cautious about walking alone at night, and if you must then stick to busy streets. Try not to look too much like a tourist, especially if you're in a touristy area like midtown. Walk with confidence, and watch out for people trying to rip you off.
As for specific areas to visit, it depends on what you're into. If you love food, check out the Upper West Side and all the awesome gourmet food stores like Zabar's and Balducci's. Every time I go to NY, I spend like half an hour just wandering around Zabar's even though I never buy anything. If you love art, check out all the galleries in Chelsea (and go to MoMA and/or the Met, but that's a given). If there are any art gallery openings going on at night, that means free booze + appetizers. If you like theater and want to take in a show, go to the TKTS booth at Broadway and 47th - they sell tickets for around 50% off the day of the performance, which usually comes out to around $40-60 for an orchestra seat to a Broadway musical.
Meh, I'm not much one for musicals. Don't get me wrong, I like theatre but I can see it in other places. Art isn't my thing either, so galleries aren't high on my list. The Met, well, it is the Met, so I'm going, but I'm not into Modern Art so I'll skip MoMA.
Well that is good, nothing like a drink with a cigar. I've heard about Three Little Indians from a website and it is the only one in that area, to my knowledge. Seems like a really neat place, so I'll have to check it out.
Well I'm already pretty much taking off the bottom three things on my list to see, because they aren't overly interesting, so I won't be supreme tourist. Like above, musical shows aren't in my itinerary because I can see them elsewhere. Serendipity 3 seems interesting, so I'll consider it. The other place seems a bit... stuffy, to tell the truth.
Thank you all so much. If anyone has anything else it will still be appreciated!
As far as the italian restaurants go. Dominick's is the only one I've been to in the last 4 years. It's family style so they sit you with strangers at a table that seats 14 (which is usually a lot of fun) and you order a couple dishes that everyone shares. Last time I was there I spend around $30 - $35 a person for 4 people and that included two bottles of table wine. I don't remember the prices at the other places, but I remember them being slightly pricier.
I recommend Candy Hostel. I don't think they have a site but they're on Expedia. It's on like 96th and Riverside, where the rich people live. It's nice to feel 100percent safe on the walk home. Oh, and hopstop.com is the best place to get transit/walking directions. Get them before you leave in the morning and you won't look like a goon staring at the map in the train station. In a pinch though, every train has a subway map posted. You won't get lost unless you want to.
Honestly most of your budget seems low. Money has a way of going faster than you think here, so give yourself some breathing room.
Also, come see me do standup.
The point is, if you think something's interesting, go see it. If it sucks, you can say "huh, big-famous-exhibit-A wasn't as cool as I'd heard", and move on.
PSN: TheScrublet
Unless you're not a fan of either...which I guess I could understand. Maybe. o_O
I thought Ellis Island was way cooler than the Empire State Building because it seemed like the information/history was more accessible and there was a greater quantity of it but your mileage may vary.
Don't miss out on walking around Little Italy and Chinatown, it's really fun and cool to gawk
The Museum of Natural History is awesome!
This can't really be said enough. And when you go, remember to go to the planetarium first! It's an extra entrance fee to get in and see a show but afterwards you can go to the rest of the museum. The Hayden Planetarium was my favorite place as a child- I wanted to get married there and live there.
Also, I don't think this was mentioned but if you do wind up going to Times Square, obviously go after dark or all point is lost. There's really no reason to go except for the lights- don't eat or shop there, it's a disgustingly huge tourist trap ripoff!
Ellis Island honestly is pretty cool if you're a history buff. I haven't been there in over 10 years which means I was kinda young last time, but I've always really enjoyed my visits.
You said you wanted to visit Ground Zero. What I find much more heartbreaking and interesting and in a way uplifting is taking the subway or Path to the World Trade Center stop. It's still unbelievably fucked up down there, 7 years later, and yet everyday all the Wall St workers still travel through on their way to work, like they don't notice it anymore.
Also, as everyone's been saying, your food budget is too low, but here's one suggestion for cheap food. Rainbow Falafel on E 17th near Union Square. Costs only $3.50 for falafel or $4.50 for shawarma and is really really good. Some people swear by Mamoun's but I think Rainbow is the best.
Anyway if I were you, I'd devote about 1/3 of your time to visiting tourist attractions and 2/3 to aimless wandering. You'll leave yourself open to make lots of surprise discoveries that might not get mentioned in a guidebook.
no way jose
a regular average sandwich costs around $6-$7, and surely you want to try many things
I'm upping my food budget and cutting some attractions and the like. It isn't like I'm going to spend a day at the World Trade Center site or anything, a 20 minute walk past it, going further and wandering around, same with Times Square and the NYPL.
I've also decided to change my planned hostels to one outside of Manhattan, in Brooklyn. I prefer staying in a place that doesn't have little creatures which normally inhabit Russian submarines. Plus that it is a place where lots of tourists don't know exists, as said earlier.
Since I asked little to nothing about Brooklyn, does anyone know if this area is safe? 249 Varet St., Brooklyn, NY, 11206, New York, The New York Loft Hostel. It looks clean, new and is close to a subway station so that makes it better than the "We're going to rape you in the ass price wise and give you scabies beds" in Manhattan.
My friend lived in Bushwick last year and was attacked on the street with his girlfriend . I believe his aparment was also broken into and robbed that year. So be alert.
30 West 101 Street
New York, NY 10025
Approaching the northern end of the Upper West Side. Nice area, right by central park. I used to spend a lot of time around the 80's on amsterdam Ave. when I was in college. A lot of college bars around there. Also a chinese place that serves unlimited free wine when you eat there which is also hugely popular amongst students.
Or did people from other colleges actually go that area in the 80's
The unlimited free wine place is not bad
Can't complain about free
Echoing this. Even in our crappy college neighborhood of south-central harlem, lunch can cost 7-9 bucks and dinner over 10 easily.
What is this free wine place and how do I not know of it? I can trade knowledge of thai restaurants and terrible bars in the 80s.
Where to stay:
You should be able to find a hostel or something in Manhattan. Try and get somewhere downtown, most good stuff at night goes on downtown. If you stay somewhere near Union Square (East 14th street and 3rd ave) the subway will be a lot easier.
The Subway:
I'd go with a 7 day unlimited pass. The subway is not difficult at all to figure out. Any subway station will have a map for free, they are easy to read, and worst case scenario, almost anyone you see down there that looks like they are from New York will be able to tell you how to get where you're going. Really, I wouldn't worry about it. At worst, you might get on a train going uptown when you mean to be going downtown or something. As long as you're paying attention, you won't end up out in the middle of nowhere lost.
In the subway, you just swipe your card and walk through the gate, then find where your train comes in, wait at the platform, and get on, thats it. Really, fuck the bus.
Your list of places to see:
Empire State Building (at night, non-peak hour) - This is something I guess you have to do while in New York, but whenever you go be ready for a long line. I waited three hours when I went, I forget what time it was though, I was younger. The view from the top is nice though.
Central Park - Of course. There is an area in the park called The Mall (it isn't a mall), you should get around there, that's where the fountain is and everything. Sheep's Meadow is nice to chill in also.
American Museum of Natural History - Fun stuff. Skip the floors that are just displays of fake animals unless you're really into them and go see the dinosaurs. Also, this is right near Central Park so it would make sense to see both at the same time.
New York Public Library - Big. Again, one of those things I guess you have to see while in New York. If it's inconvenient for you though, you could skip it and not miss too much. It's near the park so you could catch both together.
United Nations - Never been.
Times Square - Go at night.
Metropolitan Museum of Art - You could easily spend any amount of time here. Days, weeks, it's fucking huge. Because it's so big, make sure you see the things you want to see first because you could easily wander around forever and still not see everything. If you're into seeing more art, check out MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art.
Coney Island - Shit hole. I mean, they're tearing it down soon or rebuilding it or something so if you really want to see it before it goes, go for it. It's really far out of the way, about an hour ride on the subway from Manhattan. Honestly, unless you're dead set on going there I would recommend against it. It's not what you think.
Ellis Island - Moving.
Around 150 for entrance to these things is way overkill. I don't know how much the empire state building is, but everything else on your list is free, you do realize that right? The museums here all charge "suggested admission", you can pay a dollar or ten dollars or a penny, they don't care. Actually MOMA isn't like this, but the rest are.
Tobacco - Sorry, in New York it's illegal to smoke in any indoor public place. You could go to a hookah bar if you really wanted, I know where a few are, you can PM me if you want, but a good one shouldn't be too hard to find. (Edit: Apparently I might be wrong about this, my friend said there might be a cigar lounge around somewhere, but he isn't sure where.)
Food - There is so much good food here. Really, just go out and try places. Falafel is good, there are a ton of falafel places around the village. 150 Might be on the small side depending how much you're eating out or what you're eating (you can get falafel for 2.50, dumplings for 5, or a meal thats 35 dollars, depending where you go).
Being under 18 - Don't worry too much. The only places I've seen be really strict are some venues for concerts or shows. We are all 18 and buy alcohol all the time.
Where else to go - Chinatown, Chelsea on Thursday nights if you want to go to some art openings, there are shows in Williamsburg, maybe you want to catch a Broadway show? (Not Young Frankenstein). Really, whatever you're into there will be something to do here. Walk across the Brooklyn Bridge (don't look down through the planks, hah, freaked me out the first time), it's really beautiful at night.
If you have any questions or anything PM me or email me at egoodman6@yahoo.com if you need. Once you're here, New Yorkers like giving directions, so if you're lost just ask someone.
That's pretty much morningside heights. I live a few blocks from there and I think I know the actual place. It's fine. Also, a lot of bars around 110 and up to 125 between columbus and broadway are used to serving Columbia students so they don't card.
You'll probably want to walk over to Broadway to use the 1 train.
Chop Logic that was all super helpful, thanks! Question on subways: I've only really used the Toronto Subway system during a non rush hour, so I've never been on a crowded subway. What is the etiquette for the system? Are certain cars filled first (eg. the train comes from the left, when it stops, cars on the right are filled first and cars on the left last) or is it just finding your way on?
If the train is crowded, you line up to either side of the doors and let people off. Then as soon you can you push in. if you can't get a seat, you'll find that towards the middle of the car there's a little more breathing room, and that a spot next to a door is prime real estate. It really sucks to get pressed in somewhere where there isn't a bar within reach, but that only happens on a super super crowded rush hour train. If you have luggage or a big backpack, I find it's best to put it between your legs, or you're liable to hit somebody in the face with it.
Also if one car in particular seems suspiciously empty compared to the rest of the train, there's a reason. Usually that means that either the climate control on that car is off (too hot or too cold), or there's a strong urine smell coming from someone, and thus nobody wants to sit near them.
Speaking of which, don't be the asshole that wears smelly perfume or eats reeking fast food on the train. And stand away from the doors when they close, the train can't go if your purse is stuck in there. Delaying a train is a real fast way to massively irritate hundreds of people.
But if you want to see a B'way show, definitely hit up the shiny new TKTS booth in the middle of Times Square the day you want to see a show; you can get pretty decent seats for up to 50% off. If you're a student, you can get rush tickets at the box office of the show you want to see for $20-30, but be there like two hours before the box office opens to ensure a seat. Or some theatres do a lottery about an hour before curtain for cheap front row seats, and some also offer standing room after the house is full for pretty cheap. I would recomend In The Heights and Spring Awakening (which both recenlty won Tonys), The Lion King (no, srsly, OMG), Mary Poppins, Avenue Q, Hairspray or Gypsy with Patti LuPone. Skip Little Mermaid or Young Frankenstein, though; they're everything that's wrong with B'way.