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KILL KILL HATE (Homeland Security Question)
ElJeffe
Registered User, ClubPA regular
Registered User, ClubPA regular
So my house was just broken into, and my possessions thoroughly burgled, prompting me to address the issue of home security.
I would like to install security doors (those big, ugly metal screen-looking dealies) on my two rear entrances, since my rear door was kicked in. I would prefer not installing one on my front door unless necessary, because they're ugly, and because we just dropped a few hundred bucks on a nice-looking front door a year ago, and covering it up would make me sad.
However, my family's safety, of course, comes first, along with the security of my home. Now, my reasoning is that a burglar is going to be unlikely to repeatedly kick the shit out of a door until it bursts in in plain sight of everyone, and so a security door in the front is probably far less useful. Is my reasoning... well, reasonable? Or would it be dumb to not install a security door on the front entrance when the other two doors are protected? I'm going to look into a security system as well, but I'd prefer a solution that does not require that someone fuck my goddamned door up before an element of deterrance kicks in.
I would like to install security doors (those big, ugly metal screen-looking dealies) on my two rear entrances, since my rear door was kicked in. I would prefer not installing one on my front door unless necessary, because they're ugly, and because we just dropped a few hundred bucks on a nice-looking front door a year ago, and covering it up would make me sad.
However, my family's safety, of course, comes first, along with the security of my home. Now, my reasoning is that a burglar is going to be unlikely to repeatedly kick the shit out of a door until it bursts in in plain sight of everyone, and so a security door in the front is probably far less useful. Is my reasoning... well, reasonable? Or would it be dumb to not install a security door on the front entrance when the other two doors are protected? I'm going to look into a security system as well, but I'd prefer a solution that does not require that someone fuck my goddamned door up before an element of deterrance kicks in.
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ElJeffe on
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also: alarm co. sticker =good idea. NRA sticker = "hey this guy has expensive guns I want to steal"
http://www.crimedoctor.com/home.htm
http://www.nononsenseselfdefense.com/homesecurity.html
edit: the doorstop things mentioned below are good for when the wife/ kid(s) are home alone but you can't lock them from outside when you leave, that's why I like the double bolt.
Also for your familys peace of mind you could look into getting a solid core door w/ deadbolts for the master bedroom. If someone is trying to break in while someones home they can take the phone and hide in there, kind of a poor-mans panic room
But a lot will depend on your area. I mean if it's a relatively well off area where the burglars are in looking for some nice jewels, etc. They will be pretty wary about making noise and the like.
However, if you live in an area that's anyplace near where some more shady people hang about, soe of them don't give a damn about making a scene.. they will just break in however they see fit, even in broad daylight, and then try and get whatver they came in to get.
For the first, it's really about making sure that anything easily accessable is not easy to get in through, and anything you think is inaccessable is also hard to get in through (lke those windows that go into cellars that many people assume no one could ever fit in.
As for your question about the security doors... I'm not sure you need to go that kind of route.. but I don't know what kind of doors you had.
It's possible all you may have needed was simply a better built door, but one that still looked nice.
They sell these things that you can place in front of your door on the inward swinging side that are basically doorstops that you bolt into the floor. It makes the amount of force you need to kick in the door more than most people will be willing/able to use. The only caveate is that if your door is a piece of junk they could reasonably break the door in half, or simply kick it hard enough to tear this little device through the door.
Invest in good doors for the outside. Windows look nice, but if you are going to have windows that can be broken into, they should not be able to reach in and unlock the door that way.
Security system.. also good, so long as you use it. Don't be my parents and buy a system they use for 2 weeks to a month tops after every incident they hear of in the area then promptly have it fall into total disuse.
Also, in general I'd recommend moving on whatever security solutions you choose as soon as possible. Definitely before you replace any of the stuff that was stolen. I've had friends get reburglarized multiple times because a) they didn't do enough to stop the burglars from entering again, and b) the burglars were relatively confident they'd be able to steal a bunch more new shit that had just been paid for by insurance.
Be sure to spend some time thinking like a burglar about other entryways you can harden, like windows. I used to have a lot of friends living in Vancouver, BC, and it had a huge property crime problem at the time. People went after front and back doors, windows, etc.
Also, have you called in the serial numbers of the things you had with them to the police?
http://www.thelostworlds.net/
If they ever actually arrive, I'll mention it. Only the 360 had a serial number, but maybe I'll get lucky.
If you put a second deadbolt on the entry/exit doors, be aware that in case of a fire you're going to have to be damn good to get out quickly. For those that say 'there's still the front door' you're going to have to worry about where the fire is and that the front may not be quickly accessible.
Where exactly did the door break? Was it the striker/frame that gave way first? Did the lock bust out of the door or did the door cave in entirely?
A good solid door with a decent lock and a solid/reinforced frame should solve all 'kicking in' issues.
Sorry for the detail stuff, but I'm a locksmith. I'm used to seeing these situations, not reading them. :P
Steam
Here's hoping it was some dumb kids who try to sell it to EB and end up leading the police back to the entire stash.
http://www.thelostworlds.net/
The door was an add-on put in by someone who lived there before us. They apparently didn't put any actual beams into the wall to frame the door; they basically just stuck it in the sheetrock. At the very least, there aren't any beams framing the door on the side where the strike plate was.
Since there was no beam, there wasn't anything to reall screw the strike plates into other than the door frame itself, and so all the burglar had to do was kick through a wussy piece of door frame.
The wood core of the door partially splintered, though it's mostly intact. The deadbolt is in fine condition, and the only real damage is to the door frame itself. Of course, I now have a situation where I have a door that's more or less impossible to make secure without opening up the entire wall and putting in the beams that the previous fucktards should've put there to begin with.
I know they make those doorstop stye things, but you can't use them while you're out. The floor might be more secure, or more easily reinforced than the wall. Maybe/maybe not.
Only problem with that is the door is in shoddy framing so it will probably just tear at the hinge and collapse on top.
No matter what, you need to secure that door so that it cannot just fold on top of itself without an extraordinary amount of effort.
Yeah... you're pretty much screwed. A second bolt won't stop the frame shattering.
I suggest putting a 3 or 4mm steel plate in behind (or in front, if you don't mind the look) the frame, as long as it's close enough for the bolt to go through it (most deadbolts throw an inch from the edge of the door).
That way, if someone tries to kick the door in again, they have to shift the entire frame instead of just the tiny bit around the strike. They'll still get through, but it will make it much harder and it shouldn't cost such a great deal. While you're there, you may also want to check the hinge side, since they're likely to be weak as well.
Other than that, it's time to fix the previous bastards cockup.
Steam
If the door swings out, when the burglar kicks it it evenly distributes the load through the door frame making it harder to bust open.
If the door sings in, when the burglar kicks it it concentrates to load at the lock part making it easier to bust through the frame.
The window thing is a good point, no point in making your doors bullet proof if they can just jump through a window.
Satans..... hints.....
http://www.thelostworlds.net/
Satans..... hints.....
A dog
these are a few of my favorite things.
I host a podcast about movies.
About $5 worth of brass will fix that problem if you have loose-pin hinges. If you have solid/sealed-pin hinges you won't disassemble them without a very obvious effort and even then, about $5 worth of brass will fix that problem.
A key that is of the right profile (enters the cylinder but doesn't neccessarily turn) cut a specific way and a rubber band are the simple tools that allow you to unlock the door.
People will always get in, it's just about slowing them down. Brute forcing the door open is the fastest way in and doesn't require anything more than a spontaneous incentive. If people spend time planning entrances, then the amount of effort you have to spend rises faster than the offender's amount of effort required to enter (at least in a situation not built for security, which is 99% of all residential buildings).
Steam
http://www.nononsenseselfdefense.com/propertycrime.html#burglarproofing
Sure am, while it's been around for 20 odd years, it's only just become 'popular'.
Steam