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So, I've got an IKEA couch. It's a futon-style couch, but doesn't actually fold up. There's a hinged wooden frame that holds the cushions. The screws in two of these hinges have fallen out. This means that there are holes too big to screw them back into. Initially, I replaced them with larger screws, and that worked for a time, but not anymore.
I think I can fix them by filling the holes with wood putty, then putting the screws back in. Is there another option? Because that seems like a pain in the ass, and something likely to only hold temporarily. Other suggestions?
So the screws falling out basically stripped the holes that were used to hold them in place right? Are the screws on part of the couch that house the moving parts? In other words would putting something solid in there prevent you from un/folding the futon part?
I know these two objects are not at all alike and I have no idea how your futon is set up but I had a similar problem with a tool box. You could try replacing the wood which would be a much longer fix. You could also try screwing a bracket into the wood to hold a screw or bolt on.
Could you drill some new holes nearby, or would things not line up?
I would be nervous about doing this because this is a fairly thin piece of wood (maybe an inch and a half by an inch and a half by six feet), and I would be afraid that it would split. I'd have to drill new holes for six screws, too, rather than wood putty for three (only the screws on half of the hinge came out).
So the screws falling out basically stripped the holes that were used to hold them in place right? Are the screws on part of the couch that house the moving parts? In other words would putting something solid in there prevent you from un/folding the futon part?
The screws attach to the hinge that holds the two halves of the frame that holds the cushions. I'm not sure what you mean by "something solid...?"
I know these two objects are not at all alike and I have no idea how your futon is set up but I had a similar problem with a tool box. You could try replacing the wood which would be a much longer fix. You could also try screwing a bracket into the wood to hold a screw or bolt on.
If I were to replace the wood, wouldn't I basically have to replace that whole half of the frame? Or is there something else I could do, like put a plug in the hole or something?
Small carriage bolts. That will hold up a lot longer than screws, certainly screws in wood filler. If you put a metal plate (could be anything metal and flat, just drill holes in it) on the other side of the wood the couch will decompose before the bolts give out.
Yeah I don't know what I was getting at. I have a cheap futon from ikea that had a similar problem, only if I glued the screws in (something solid), I wouldn't be able to unfold it into a bed anymore.
Basically I was going to go with the putty/wood glue route, but a bracket will probably work too.
Could you drill some new holes nearby, or would things not line up?
I would be nervous about doing this because this is a fairly thin piece of wood (maybe an inch and a half by an inch and a half by six feet), and I would be afraid that it would split. I'd have to drill new holes for six screws, too, rather than wood putty for three (only the screws on half of the hinge came out).
So its a 6' 2x2.
Honestly its hard to say. IKEA uses all kinds of different fiberboard. Since its a couch, it should be strong material.
If you just go slow you should be able to drill/screw without a problem.
or you can try filling the holes withe something like jb weld, then redrill for the screw. it might be ugly but it should be bomber assuming the jb weld binds the wood (it should)
Could you drill some new holes nearby, or would things not line up?
I would be nervous about doing this because this is a fairly thin piece of wood (maybe an inch and a half by an inch and a half by six feet), and I would be afraid that it would split. I'd have to drill new holes for six screws, too, rather than wood putty for three (only the screws on half of the hinge came out).
So its a 6' 2x2.
Honestly its hard to say. IKEA uses all kinds of different fiberboard. Since its a couch, it should be strong material.
If you just go slow you should be able to drill/screw without a problem.
Might wanna look in to Fizban's bracket idea.
Well, if I end up drilling all the way through, would I be better off going with the carriage bolt idea? That seems like it would hold better than screws, and I can just duct tape over the bolts to protect the cushions.
or you can try filling the holes withe something like jb weld, then redrill for the screw. it might be ugly but it should be bomber assuming the jb weld binds the wood (it should)
JB weld is a liquid weld, right? Not a heat weld? Keep in mind I have an apartment and no real garage to speak of, so anything that I can't safely do over carpet should be thrown right out.
Could you drill some new holes nearby, or would things not line up?
I would be nervous about doing this because this is a fairly thin piece of wood (maybe an inch and a half by an inch and a half by six feet), and I would be afraid that it would split. I'd have to drill new holes for six screws, too, rather than wood putty for three (only the screws on half of the hinge came out).
So its a 6' 2x2.
Honestly its hard to say. IKEA uses all kinds of different fiberboard. Since its a couch, it should be strong material.
If you just go slow you should be able to drill/screw without a problem.
Might wanna look in to Fizban's bracket idea.
Well, if end up drilling all the way through, would I be better off going with the carriage bolt idea? That seems like it would hold better than screws, and I can just duct tape over the bolts to protect the cushions.
Okay, I went ahead and took pictures. My memory was fooling with me, as the wood is only about 3/4" thick. I think I won't have a problem getting through the wood entirely where the original screws were.
This is the couch. It's actually three pieces: the piece with the armrests, then the two pieces holding the cushions, which are held together with four sets of hinges. The hinges look like this:
Wood putty wont work, it just isnt strong enough to bear a load. Over time the stress will just make it crumble and fall out. I cant really see how you could glue anything here, either.
Moving the offending hinges to a different spot would be an option. Going all the way through the wood and using a nut & bolt combo would be strong, and easy, and to be honest is probably what i'd look into if i had to do it. Then like you say, duct tape over the bolt to protect the cushions. Its a bit hard to tell from the pics, but i'll assume the cushions will be thick enough to not have you sitting uncomfortably on the bits that will stick out.
I would go with relocating the hinges or going with the bolt option.
If you go with the relocation, as long as you pre-drill the holes for the screws, there should be no problem with splitting. It's only when you try to drill the screws into un-pre-drilled wood that it splits.
Though considering it has happened a couple times before, I would go with the bolts. Just make sure to use large fender washers to distribute the load of the bolt heads, at least on the side opposite the hinge.
I would go with relocating the hinges or going with the bolt option.
If you go with the relocation, as long as you pre-drill the holes for the screws, there should be no problem with splitting. It's only when you try to drill the screws into un-pre-drilled wood that it splits.
Though considering it has happened a couple times before, I would go with the bolts. Just make sure to use large fender washers to distribute the load of the bolt heads, at least on the side opposite the hinge.
Am I okay using washers, or should I do the drilling holes in an aluminum plate thing?
And with the limited distance between the bolts, am I going to have room for washers?
Am I okay using washers, or should I do the drilling holes in an aluminum plate thing?
And with the limited distance between the bolts, am I going to have room for washers?
Hmmm... Good point. While washers would be easier (no drilling), there probably wouldn't be room for more than dinky little ones. For making a plate, try to get a softer metal (like the aluminum) and make sure you have a metal drilling bit, and if at all possible, use a corded drill vs a cordless.
Am I okay using washers, or should I do the drilling holes in an aluminum plate thing?
And with the limited distance between the bolts, am I going to have room for washers?
Hmmm... Good point. While washers would be easier (no drilling), there probably wouldn't be room for more than dinky little ones. For making a plate, try to get a softer metal (like the aluminum) and make sure you have a metal drilling bit, and if at all possible, use a corded drill vs a cordless.
If we assume that I have a cheapass cordless drill with wood bits that I'm okay fucking up... should I be able to drill through an aluminum plate (it's pretty soft)? Would Home Depot do that for me if I gave them measurements?
Am I okay using washers, or should I do the drilling holes in an aluminum plate thing?
And with the limited distance between the bolts, am I going to have room for washers?
Hmmm... Good point. While washers would be easier (no drilling), there probably wouldn't be room for more than dinky little ones. For making a plate, try to get a softer metal (like the aluminum) and make sure you have a metal drilling bit, and if at all possible, use a corded drill vs a cordless.
If we assume that I have a cheapass cordless drill with wood bits that I'm okay fucking up... should I be able to drill through an aluminum plate (it's pretty soft)? Would Home Depot do that for me if I gave them measurements?
It will be a pain in the ass to try to drill through with wood bits, you'd probably just end up with some smoke and some small dents in the aluminum. Home Depot probably wouldn't do that, I don't think they have the stuff to do it for customers.
One other option, instead of drilling plates, would be to find a similar hinge plate with the same hole pattern and just use that (possibly taken apart into two plates, possibly with one side left dangling). That might be your best option, and I don't think it would be that hard to find the right holes, just pull the whole hinge off and bring it to Home Depot so you can check them out.
jb weld is a liquid "epoxy" that dries hard so its not like a welder.
i would be careful with moving hinges around. my concerns:
1. they are in a location to help disperse weight correctly for that thickness of wood so moving them could potentially have catastrophic results
having that many more holes in 3/4" wood doesn't sound good to me.
i think your best bets would be to drill the hole completely through and use bolts, or fill the holes and rescrew
you can also refil the hole with epoxy mixed with steel wool
to add. keep in mind the value of the couch versus the cost of repairs. keep it simple
mts on
0
Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
edited January 2009
I havent read through the whole thread but IMO, and if I'm looking at this picture right, I think the easiest solution is just drill the holes all the way through the wood; and then use a couple of bolts, nuts and washers.
I know this isn't really the thread subject, but when our futon broke, my wife and I went to Goodwill and dropped $80 on a used one that wound up being far more reliable and comfy. They even delivered it for us without too much additional expense. So if you have continued problems even after you repair the thing, you might consider looking into something along those lines.
OremLK on
My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
I had that same shitty couch. If you don't want to put a plate on the opposite side, you can use washers. Because the holes in the plate limit the size of washer you can fit, I woud use the largest ones I could on the 2 outside holes and not even use the middle one.
If you're going to Home Depot anyway, bring the hinge with you. Hinge hole patterns are usually standard. If you can find another hinge with the same hole pattern you can just split that and put the halves on the opposite side.
Also, carriage bolts are the kind with smooth heads. You won't need to do anything to protect the cushion. Make sure that you fit the bolts all the way through the hinge when you buy them. Carriage bolts usually go square at the very top where the meet the head, and the corners make it a tighter fit. You might end up having to drill the holes out a bit if you get the wrong ones. I'd probably pound the fucking things into the hinge though. The holes are tapered on the hinge, so the metal should be thin enough to wedge the bolt corners in there without warping the hinge. Makes it fit tighter and you can use a thicker (stronger) bolt without weakening the hinge with bigger holes.
1. move the hinge over a few inches, so you're drilling into "fresh wood"
2. use bolts as suggested... definitely use washers on the back side
3. fix the wood... the strongest repair i've used in that type of situation was stuffing a wooden dowel into the hole slathered with wood glue (toothpicks or wooden matches would work in a pinch)... this repair is much stronger than putty, btw
I had that same shitty couch. If you don't want to put a plate on the opposite side, you can use washers. Because the holes in the plate limit the size of washer you can fit, I woud use the largest ones I could on the 2 outside holes and not even use the middle one.
If you're going to Home Depot anyway, bring the hinge with you. Hinge hole patterns are usually standard. If you can find another hinge with the same hole pattern you can just split that and put the halves on the opposite side.
Also, carriage bolts are the kind with smooth heads. You won't need to do anything to protect the cushion. Make sure that you fit the bolts all the way through the hinge when you buy them. Carriage bolts usually go square at the very top where the meet the head, and the corners make it a tighter fit. You might end up having to drill the holes out a bit if you get the wrong ones. I'd probably pound the fucking things into the hinge though. The holes are tapered on the hinge, so the metal should be thin enough to wedge the bolt corners in there without warping the hinge. Makes it fit tighter and you can use a thicker (stronger) bolt without weakening the hinge with bigger holes.
I am a retard for not thinking of the two bolts thing myself.
And Orem, I would rather no save money on the couch only to wind up spending more on an exterminator to get rid of bed bugs.
Why not just pack the existing holes with rawl plugs, then put the right sized screws back in?
It's only 3/4" thick, and the screws have already slightly pushed through to the other side. I'd be nervous that they wouldn't hold, because either they'd damage the wood even more, or they'd just slide out much like the screws.
In a similar, non-thread-worthy vein, I too have a broken couch. A big 3 seater from the 80s, incredibly comfortable. I never want to get rid of it.
But a piece of wood inside it has broken, or popped out of place, or something, so now the couch is very 'sinky'. Who or what kind of business should I be calling to get this fixed? A local ... carpenter..?
In a similar, non-thread-worthy vein, I too have a broken couch. A big 3 seater from the 80s, incredibly comfortable. I never want to get rid of it.
But a piece of wood inside it has broken, or popped out of place, or something, so now the couch is very 'sinky'. Who or what kind of business should I be calling to get this fixed? A local ... carpenter..?
Upholsterers usually have the skills necessary to do this, its pretty common on recovery jobs you need to replace bits of frame. Any profession really that works with wood is likely to have the skills to replace a broken piece though... carpenters, builders, cabinet makers... etc.
I had a similar problem involving the screw holes for the hinges of a door. Went to home depot and asked them about it, and a guy told me that his trick is to get those metal pan-scraping pads (brillo), tear off a chunk, and fill the holes with it. As you screw into it, the brillo pad fragments attach themselves to the screws and the wood in the hole, creating a firm grip.
It's working well so far in my door. I don't know if this'll help with a couch, but I imagine it would given that the root problem is the same in both situations.
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The screws attach to the hinge that holds the two halves of the frame that holds the cushions. I'm not sure what you mean by "something solid...?"
If I were to replace the wood, wouldn't I basically have to replace that whole half of the frame? Or is there something else I could do, like put a plug in the hole or something?
Basically I was going to go with the putty/wood glue route, but a bracket will probably work too.
Honestly its hard to say. IKEA uses all kinds of different fiberboard. Since its a couch, it should be strong material.
If you just go slow you should be able to drill/screw without a problem.
Might wanna look in to Fizban's bracket idea.
JB weld is good shit. Its an epoxy.
This is the couch. It's actually three pieces: the piece with the armrests, then the two pieces holding the cushions, which are held together with four sets of hinges. The hinges look like this:
This is what I'm trying to get to stick in there.
Moving the offending hinges to a different spot would be an option. Going all the way through the wood and using a nut & bolt combo would be strong, and easy, and to be honest is probably what i'd look into if i had to do it. Then like you say, duct tape over the bolt to protect the cushions. Its a bit hard to tell from the pics, but i'll assume the cushions will be thick enough to not have you sitting uncomfortably on the bits that will stick out.
If you go with the relocation, as long as you pre-drill the holes for the screws, there should be no problem with splitting. It's only when you try to drill the screws into un-pre-drilled wood that it splits.
Though considering it has happened a couple times before, I would go with the bolts. Just make sure to use large fender washers to distribute the load of the bolt heads, at least on the side opposite the hinge.
And with the limited distance between the bolts, am I going to have room for washers?
Hmmm... Good point. While washers would be easier (no drilling), there probably wouldn't be room for more than dinky little ones. For making a plate, try to get a softer metal (like the aluminum) and make sure you have a metal drilling bit, and if at all possible, use a corded drill vs a cordless.
It will be a pain in the ass to try to drill through with wood bits, you'd probably just end up with some smoke and some small dents in the aluminum. Home Depot probably wouldn't do that, I don't think they have the stuff to do it for customers.
One other option, instead of drilling plates, would be to find a similar hinge plate with the same hole pattern and just use that (possibly taken apart into two plates, possibly with one side left dangling). That might be your best option, and I don't think it would be that hard to find the right holes, just pull the whole hinge off and bring it to Home Depot so you can check them out.
i would be careful with moving hinges around. my concerns:
1. they are in a location to help disperse weight correctly for that thickness of wood so moving them could potentially have catastrophic results
having that many more holes in 3/4" wood doesn't sound good to me.
i think your best bets would be to drill the hole completely through and use bolts, or fill the holes and rescrew
you can also refil the hole with epoxy mixed with steel wool
If you're going to Home Depot anyway, bring the hinge with you. Hinge hole patterns are usually standard. If you can find another hinge with the same hole pattern you can just split that and put the halves on the opposite side.
Also, carriage bolts are the kind with smooth heads. You won't need to do anything to protect the cushion. Make sure that you fit the bolts all the way through the hinge when you buy them. Carriage bolts usually go square at the very top where the meet the head, and the corners make it a tighter fit. You might end up having to drill the holes out a bit if you get the wrong ones. I'd probably pound the fucking things into the hinge though. The holes are tapered on the hinge, so the metal should be thin enough to wedge the bolt corners in there without warping the hinge. Makes it fit tighter and you can use a thicker (stronger) bolt without weakening the hinge with bigger holes.
1. move the hinge over a few inches, so you're drilling into "fresh wood"
2. use bolts as suggested... definitely use washers on the back side
3. fix the wood... the strongest repair i've used in that type of situation was stuffing a wooden dowel into the hole slathered with wood glue (toothpicks or wooden matches would work in a pinch)... this repair is much stronger than putty, btw
I am a retard for not thinking of the two bolts thing myself.
And Orem, I would rather no save money on the couch only to wind up spending more on an exterminator to get rid of bed bugs.
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But a piece of wood inside it has broken, or popped out of place, or something, so now the couch is very 'sinky'. Who or what kind of business should I be calling to get this fixed? A local ... carpenter..?
Upholsterers usually have the skills necessary to do this, its pretty common on recovery jobs you need to replace bits of frame. Any profession really that works with wood is likely to have the skills to replace a broken piece though... carpenters, builders, cabinet makers... etc.
I had a similar problem involving the screw holes for the hinges of a door. Went to home depot and asked them about it, and a guy told me that his trick is to get those metal pan-scraping pads (brillo), tear off a chunk, and fill the holes with it. As you screw into it, the brillo pad fragments attach themselves to the screws and the wood in the hole, creating a firm grip.
It's working well so far in my door. I don't know if this'll help with a couch, but I imagine it would given that the root problem is the same in both situations.