By and large I use plastic glue for plastic models, but it cases like the carnifex where I assembled him after painting, that was super glue. I did use plastic glue to stick the body and legs together though.
A lot of The time I am trimming limbs and weapons andputting new stuff on. There's something to be said of the added durability plastic glue gives loose bits in those scenarios.
I agree with Matrias on this. I really like using ZAP! plastic glue. Although it can be annoying, most of the time it is perfect after a tacky dry fit to double check everything.
I used the GW plastic glue (kinda sucky) til I ran out. Then I used super glue I had handy, and remembered how much I love super glue. I only have problems when I accidentally OGRE GRIP the stuff, and it jizzes all over my hand and dire wolf.
Jackmode on
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
edited June 2009
Ah, right; I forgot GW's stupid containers of fail. I personally use this for almost all my plastic gluing needs. If not that, then liquid poly brushed on.
Ah, right; I forgot GW's stupid containers of fail. I personally use this for almost all my plastic gluing needs. If not that, then liquid poly brushed on.
Oh, I had a bottle like that. Very thin metal pipe, right? Awesome for spot-gluing.
Echo on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Ah, right; I forgot GW's stupid containers of fail. I personally use this for almost all my plastic gluing needs. If not that, then liquid poly brushed on.
Oh, I had a bottle like that. Very thin metal pipe, right? Awesome for spot-gluing.
Indeed. I usually get rid of the stupid cap and replace it with a bit of 0.5mm brass rod shoved into the bore of the tube though. Keeps everything clean ad stops the cap pulling the tube out if there's dried-up overspill inside it.
I finally sorted out my lighting setup a bit for when I take photographs, so the following will hopefully be slightly clearer. I think it may actually be a bit on the dark side, but I'll turn the exposure up a teeny bit for the next round of photos and see if that has any effect. Anyway, two more stormboyz are taken care of, mostly.
This guy's probably my favorite so far, though I just noticed I failed to do the fingernails on his leading hand...
And here's the other.
Just a reminder, so there's no confusion: The smoke's not painted at all. I'm leaving that off till last, until I get a good idea of how I want to tackle it. I'm considering adding blood spatters on all their weapons, but I'm not sure if that'd reduce the visual impact of the hazard stripes they're all packing.
A current mob shot:
And on we go. Only 2 boyz and the grot pair left till this project's tidied up.
The mob looks great Ein. Still not a fan of your masks, but those Stormboyz are pretty awesome. I'm also working on a mob of Stormboyz. Thanks for the inspiration! The yellow/black 'Caution' colors are pretty awesome. Well done.
Ein, very nice, as usual. Can't wait til they're finished.
Well boys, the hobby gods have smiled upon me after today's super glue mishap. I suck at painting cloth / capes / cloaks, but I absolutely nailed my Winged Vampire Lord's cape. Just killed it. Looks fucking great. Even got tiny blood-wrought runes on his uhhh...impurity seals?
Anyways, I'm stoked. He's coming along quite nicely.
Masks look fucking awesome. Masked orkz are probably the best thing ever. They exude calm and focus and stoicness, when you know there's an ork on the inside all, "WAAAAAAAAGH!!!"
So I am assembling an Ultramarine company champion for my command squad and I have a few questions. Most important is that he must look cool, but I do wanna follow the wysiwyg-concept. Since I've allready used my company champion bits to make a present for my friend (
), I had to use some other spare bits and come up with something.
This is what I thought: He should have a combat shield, power sword and a bolt pistol. But I also want him to be pointing at enemies, looking like he is directing attacks and challenging particularly nasty opponents. So, I have a problem: with one hand holding the sword, and the other one pointing, there is no hand left for a bolt pistol and a combat shield.
This is what I've come up with so far:
I took a combat shield and cut it down a bit, to make it smaller, and attached it to the side of his waist. Like if it was hanging from his belt.
I attached a holstered pistol from the command squad kit to his other side.
It looks kind of ok, although the shield is just a wee bit awkward. Would it be allright wysiwyg-wise?
Also, I wanted him to stand out from the other marines, like a company champion would. I still lack the proper helm and shoulderguards to do so. In order to make him look more experienced I used a corvus helmet, attaching some laurels on it. I also hung parchments from his waist and backpack and finally gave him a shoulder guard with the skull-headed eagle insignia on it.
As for now he doesn't have a crux terminatus, neither on shoulder pad or anywhere else, but I might just put one in the center of his combat shield.
So I am assembling an Ultramarine company champion for my command squad and I have a few questions. Most important is that he must look cool, but I do wanna follow the wysiwyg-concept. Since I've allready used my company champion bits to make a present for my friend (
),
That marine is really cool.
I just "finished" my first valkyrie, and here are the pics.
I did this one very simple though, just orkhide shade mixed with tausept ochre, and airbrushed that mix on.
Dirty drybrush with tausept ochre, and still have to blend in those transfers.
zatar on
Playing as Tvisling Draygo on Europa-Farstar
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
edited June 2009
Man, how much do you reckon it'd cost to get boeing or grumman or someone to design and build a working valkyrie?
I dunno, breaking the laws of aerodynamics to make an impossible aircraft probably runs at a premium.
Yes, we probably have to wait until a new tech was discovered makes levitation practical.
otherwise the harrier jump jet costs [US$30-35 million in 1997 (Harrier II Plus)] so if we quadruple that, we might get something that just hovers a few feet of the ground.
So, I have a problem: with one hand holding the sword, and the other one pointing, there is no hand left for a bolt pistol and a combat shield.
You could also have the sword driven into the ground in front of him, if he's going to be in a more heroic commanding pose than a straight up action one.
Librarian's ghostLibrarian, Ghostbuster, and TimSporkRegistered Userregular
edited June 2009
If anyone is looking for a good super glue I recommended Loctite, specifically the one that comes in the isosceles triangle shaped bottle. It's the only super glue I've ever used that I've actually used all of it. The cap is really well designed to not get stuck on and the tip doesn't get clogged easily.
May have a little problem, see below
The more eagle eyed of you will have noticed that all is not well in Hydra land. There are bent guns and the plate is a little warped.
I need advice on the best way to get it straight, Ive heard warm water allows you to move it back but I wanted to ask here before going at it and ruining an expensive model that is getting a plastic kit from GW soon (curses!)
thanks
Kaligord on
And I - am not your enemy - not your destroyer - I am, as before, your right hand. Your sword.
0
Librarian's ghostLibrarian, Ghostbuster, and TimSporkRegistered Userregular
May have a little problem, see below
The more eagle eyed of you will have noticed that all is not well in Hydra land. There are bent guns and the plate is a little warped.
I need advice on the best way to get it straight, Ive heard warm water allows you to move it back but I wanted to ask here before going at it and ruining an expensive model that is getting a plastic kit from GW soon (curses!)
thanks
Turn on the hot tap in your bathroom and let it go till steam comes from the water. Hold the bent part under the water and periodically check it till it is flexible enough to bend. Straighten the part then run it under cold water. It should harden and not be bent any more.
Turn on the hot tap in your bathroom and let it go till steam comes from the water. Hold the bent part under the water and periodically check it till it is flexible enough to bend. Straighten the part then run it under cold water. It should harden and not be bent any more.
See now painting little men is kind of an odd past time anyway, giving my tank a bath may be a whole new level of strangness :P
Thanks for the tip, will report back with a completed Hydra pic or just tears and burnt hands.
Kaligord on
And I - am not your enemy - not your destroyer - I am, as before, your right hand. Your sword.
So I am assembling an Ultramarine company champion for my command squad and I have a few questions. Most important is that he must look cool, but I do wanna follow the wysiwyg-concept. Since I've allready used my company champion bits to make a present for my friend (
),
That marine is really cool.
I just "finished" my first valkyrie, and here are the pics.
-snip-
I did this one very simple though, just orkhide shade mixed with tausept ochre, and airbrushed that mix on.
Dirty drybrush with tausept ochre, and still have to blend in those transfers.
You don't wash, do you? I would really recommend it, at least a decently think(not too watered down) badab black on the lascannons, and other silver parts. The green looks pretty damn good without a wash, but the metal-looking parts would really benefit.
Re: Zatar's Valk, too, you might want to get some Micro-Sol Decal Solvent. It helps get rid of the white area around your numbered decal to a degree, since that looks a little messy. Alternatively, try carefully painting your green color over the excess decal medium and leaving the numbers, particularly if you're going to be using a wash on the vehicle.
May have a little problem, see below
The more eagle eyed of you will have noticed that all is not well in Hydra land. There are bent guns and the plate is a little warped.
I need advice on the best way to get it straight, Ive heard warm water allows you to move it back but I wanted to ask here before going at it and ruining an expensive model that is getting a plastic kit from GW soon (curses!)
thanks
Turn on the hot tap in your bathroom and let it go till steam comes from the water. Hold the bent part under the water and periodically check it till it is flexible enough to bend. Straighten the part then run it under cold water. It should harden and not be bent any more.
I can attest to this method working well. You may need to repeat it a couple of times, however.
DragonPup on
"I was there, I was there, the day Horus slew the Emperor." -Cpt Garviel Loken
Ein, you make me so jealous. I harbor in my heart the hope to one day be able to paint and model like someone similar, if not quite as talented, to you.
Posts
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Oh, I had a bottle like that. Very thin metal pipe, right? Awesome for spot-gluing.
Indeed. I usually get rid of the stupid cap and replace it with a bit of 0.5mm brass rod shoved into the bore of the tube though. Keeps everything clean ad stops the cap pulling the tube out if there's dried-up overspill inside it.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
This guy's probably my favorite so far, though I just noticed I failed to do the fingernails on his leading hand...
And here's the other.
Just a reminder, so there's no confusion: The smoke's not painted at all. I'm leaving that off till last, until I get a good idea of how I want to tackle it. I'm considering adding blood spatters on all their weapons, but I'm not sure if that'd reduce the visual impact of the hazard stripes they're all packing.
A current mob shot:
And on we go. Only 2 boyz and the grot pair left till this project's tidied up.
Well boys, the hobby gods have smiled upon me after today's super glue mishap. I suck at painting cloth / capes / cloaks, but I absolutely nailed my Winged Vampire Lord's cape. Just killed it. Looks fucking great. Even got tiny blood-wrought runes on his uhhh...impurity seals?
Anyways, I'm stoked. He's coming along quite nicely.
This is what I thought: He should have a combat shield, power sword and a bolt pistol. But I also want him to be pointing at enemies, looking like he is directing attacks and challenging particularly nasty opponents. So, I have a problem: with one hand holding the sword, and the other one pointing, there is no hand left for a bolt pistol and a combat shield.
This is what I've come up with so far:
I took a combat shield and cut it down a bit, to make it smaller, and attached it to the side of his waist. Like if it was hanging from his belt.
I attached a holstered pistol from the command squad kit to his other side.
It looks kind of ok, although the shield is just a wee bit awkward. Would it be allright wysiwyg-wise?
Also, I wanted him to stand out from the other marines, like a company champion would. I still lack the proper helm and shoulderguards to do so. In order to make him look more experienced I used a corvus helmet, attaching some laurels on it. I also hung parchments from his waist and backpack and finally gave him a shoulder guard with the skull-headed eagle insignia on it.
As for now he doesn't have a crux terminatus, neither on shoulder pad or anywhere else, but I might just put one in the center of his combat shield.
So any ideas or objections?
That marine is really cool.
I just "finished" my first valkyrie, and here are the pics.
I did this one very simple though, just orkhide shade mixed with tausept ochre, and airbrushed that mix on.
Dirty drybrush with tausept ochre, and still have to blend in those transfers.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Yes, we probably have to wait until a new tech was discovered makes levitation practical.
otherwise the harrier jump jet costs [US$30-35 million in 1997 (Harrier II Plus)] so if we quadruple that, we might get something that just hovers a few feet of the ground.
Also:
Gribble!
The more eagle eyed of you will have noticed that all is not well in Hydra land. There are bent guns and the plate is a little warped.
I need advice on the best way to get it straight, Ive heard warm water allows you to move it back but I wanted to ask here before going at it and ruining an expensive model that is getting a plastic kit from GW soon (curses!)
thanks
Turn on the hot tap in your bathroom and let it go till steam comes from the water. Hold the bent part under the water and periodically check it till it is flexible enough to bend. Straighten the part then run it under cold water. It should harden and not be bent any more.
See now painting little men is kind of an odd past time anyway, giving my tank a bath may be a whole new level of strangness :P
Don't forget to wash behind its ears.
Also...goddamn there are some good painters / modelers here.
You don't wash, do you? I would really recommend it, at least a decently think(not too watered down) badab black on the lascannons, and other silver parts. The green looks pretty damn good without a wash, but the metal-looking parts would really benefit.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
I can attest to this method working well. You may need to repeat it a couple of times, however.
Currently painting: Slowly [flickr]
Or not, you know, whatever. I mean, we're still cool, thread.
(Painted the entire squad, minus chimera, in a day a while back, never got around to posting pics)
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
Aquila's came from vehicle sprues, and yeah, the overseer is the valkyrie-helmet laspistol wielder on the chimera.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
And the obligatory mob shot:
Just the stormgrotz left!
[size="-4"]Sentence construction?[/size]