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I am going on a road trip soon and am trying to get the best gas mileage I can. So I thought I should run some in cleaner through the car.
So, What Fuel Injector cleaner is best to use? Does it make any difference? Should I just get the cheapest and dump it in the tank?
Injector cleaning isn't inherently evil, but it's best done sparingly. If you're noticing stalls or hesitation, sure, run a bottle through. Regular use, on the other hand, can be really hard on tubes, seals, gaskets, or pretty much anything made of rubber. Most fuel companies (Shell and BP for instance) already have detergents in their fuel blend, so there's really no point in using injection cleaners unless you think you have an injection problem. It's not a routine maintenance kind of thing.
If your engine is running fine and you just want to optimize fuel economy during your trip, get a tune-up if you're due for one, get an oil change (make sure you use the right grade of oil! Using 10W-30 in an engine that wants 5W-30 can cut your fuel economy by as much as 2% or 3%), and be religious about keeping your tires properly inflated (another easy 3%). Most of all, drive conservatively. Better braking technique alone can improve your fuel economy TREMENDOUSLY (I've seen people's MPG jump by as much as 20% just from more conservative use of brakes), and unless you have a sports car, keep in mind that you get optimal fuel economy at 55 to 65 MPH -- you know, the speed limit.
All of the ones i've seen on the market are really just ethyl alcohol. They'll show a tiny amount of difference while they're in the tank but won't actually clean the injectors. For better results just slow down your highway speed by 5-10mph. Sure it'll take longer but you'll definitely save gas.
I've never put any in in the 6 years I have had the vehicle. I figure, it is probably somthing that I should do. I am also going to change the spark plugs, the connections to the spark plugs, and change the oil before I go. And make sure the tires are good. And make sure brake fluid is good...
and maybe some other stuff too.
I already drive quite nicely.
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and I wonder about my neighbors even though I don't have them
but they're listening to every word I say
If you use top-tier gasoline regularly, your fuel system is already as clean as it's going to be. You don't have to fill up every time with the top-tier stuff; every third or fourth tank is usually enough.
Isn't top tier gas snake oil, unless you're driving a sports car?
Yes. Engines with a higher compression ratio can exhibit knocking if non-premium gas is used (though in colder months it's probably fine to use mid grade). If your car doesn't require anything over 87, you don't gain anything by buying premium gas.
Really the best way to find out what type of gas to use, is to check your user manual. I drive an rx8 and if i run anything less then 93 in it, the engine knocks. This is because the engine runs at a much higher compression ratio of 10 to 1 versus your standard engine running around 7 or 8 to 1.
Isn't top tier gas snake oil, unless you're driving a sports car?
Yes. Engines with a higher compression ratio can exhibit knocking if non-premium gas is used (though in colder months it's probably fine to use mid grade). If your car doesn't require anything over 87, you don't gain anything by buying premium gas.
Top tier gas has nothing to do with the octane rating. It has to do with how much detergent the gas contains. There is disagreement as to whether more detergent than the minimum standard is beneficial or not, but the list of auto companies that endorse top-tier gas is pretty compelling.
Isn't top tier gas snake oil, unless you're driving a sports car?
Yes. Engines with a higher compression ratio can exhibit knocking if non-premium gas is used (though in colder months it's probably fine to use mid grade). If your car doesn't require anything over 87, you don't gain anything by buying premium gas.
Top tier gas has nothing to do with the octane rating. It has to do with how much detergent the gas contains. There is disagreement as to whether more detergent than the minimum standard is beneficial or not, but the list of auto companies that endorse top-tier gas is pretty compelling.
THIS.
Per the website:
Gasoline retailers must meet the high TOP TIER standards with all grades of gasoline to be approved by the automakers as providing TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
So that regular you put in to save 10-20 cents has at minimum more than enough detergent as the premium ultra plus if you're buying from a top tier retailer. Which is almost everyone except BP and Exxon... and god only knows what wally-world and other grocery stores use.
I recommend a can of BG 44K. It's not the cheapest, but anecdotal evidence suggests it's a damn good product. Chances are you'll have to go to a shop to have it added.
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TexiKenDammit!That fish really got me!Registered Userregular
edited April 2009
BG products are good. I have the stuff in my car after a transmission flush done for regular maintenance.
Also, just a bottle of Chevron Techron would work as well, and it might be the cheapest thing to try. Just pour it into your tank when you have about a 1/4 tank of gas, and just get the rpms up high and go down the freeway for 5 miles, then fill up with gas.
DONT run seafoam through the gas tank of a 15 year old car.
All youre asking for is to have your car start burning oil, because itll clean the carbon buildup off the piston walls, weakening the seal of the rings and let oil seep into the combustion chamber.
Run it through the vacuum hose if youre going to run it at all. Itll clean out the throttle body but leave the combustion chamber relatively untouched.
DEFINATELY DO NOT run it in the crank case.
If youre dead set on running it through the gas tank, burn that entire tank in a day and get the oil changed immediately after. But i would totally not do it. Its also really hard on seals and other rubber parts (like, you know, your fuel line).
Id just buy some lucas injector cleaner or the STP stuff, and run that. It really does make a difference if you use it sparingly. Use it too much and youll again ruin the seals and lines on your engine.
Changing the sparkplugs, wires and distributor cap are probably the best things you can do, maintenance wise, and those things have no way of causing any adverse affects to your car.
DONT run seafoam through the gas tank of a 15 year old car.
Run it through the vacuum hose if youre going to run it at all. Itll clean out the throttle body but leave the combustion chamber relatively untouched.
Pulling in Seafoam through the vacuum line will make the Seafoam part of the intake charge and won't leave the combustion chamber untouched, no?
Also, cars can have multiple vacuum lines, so it's possible to pick one that bypasses the throttle body completely (e.g. the brake booster vacuum line).
If you run it through the vacuum lines, if you do it properly (as in, slowly), it will have pretty much evaporated into a gas by the time it hits the combustion chamber, which does less damage than just dumping seafoam mixed with gasoline right into the combustion chamber, which isnt really going to do any good anyway (the only thing it goes by that it should be cleaning is the injectors). Go to any car forum that specializes in older cars and ask about seafoam, you will find 100000 first hand stories of someone running seafoam in the crank case or gas tank and the car starting to burn massive amounts of oil. Yeah its fine to run it in the crankcase or in the gas tank in a NEWER car, one that doesnt have "thick" carbon buildup basically sealing the combustion chamber from the crank case, but on an OLDER car all youre asking for is trouble.
I mean look at it this way, you can either spend 10 dollars and do nothing but cause potential harm to your engine, costing you hundreds of more dollars in either engine repairs or replacement, or you can just go the regular normal route everyone else goes of sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and oil change, and have your car keep on running fine.
I run seafoam on all my old cars but ONLY through the vacuum lines and only every 100k KM or so. So its not like im saying its a crap product, it just has the potential to cause more harm than its worth when used in certain ways.
And yeah im mistaken, by throttle body i meant intake manifold.
It's already in the gas tank. No smoke, or terrible oil burning yet, and I just drove 80 miles on the freeway. It should be fine. Seems to be idling better (it idled alright to begin with though so it may just be in my head) but that may just be because it is acting like high end gas with detergents. I put it in with regular.
Oil change later this week along with spark plugs. May have to take it in for plugs, because there are three that are only accessible by going underneath. Dunno if I want to do that.
WonderMink on
and I wonder about my neighbors even though I don't have them
but they're listening to every word I say
and at 6 years, your car could probably use a tuneup...
I've had it for about six years. It is 15 years old.
About seafoam... you supporting that brand or knocking it?
i support it... i'd use half a bottle in the gas tank, and the other half sucked into a vacuum line... but read up the proper directions online just to be safe
If you're looking to increase your performance and mileage, one easy thing to do is to replace the air intake filter. It's easy, just takes a few minutes and can make a big difference. My old car, a 1996 Beretta, had the filter replaced last summer and that alone increased the mileage by 1.5-2 miles per gallon and made a noticeable performance difference.
Posts
Injector cleaning isn't inherently evil, but it's best done sparingly. If you're noticing stalls or hesitation, sure, run a bottle through. Regular use, on the other hand, can be really hard on tubes, seals, gaskets, or pretty much anything made of rubber. Most fuel companies (Shell and BP for instance) already have detergents in their fuel blend, so there's really no point in using injection cleaners unless you think you have an injection problem. It's not a routine maintenance kind of thing.
If your engine is running fine and you just want to optimize fuel economy during your trip, get a tune-up if you're due for one, get an oil change (make sure you use the right grade of oil! Using 10W-30 in an engine that wants 5W-30 can cut your fuel economy by as much as 2% or 3%), and be religious about keeping your tires properly inflated (another easy 3%). Most of all, drive conservatively. Better braking technique alone can improve your fuel economy TREMENDOUSLY (I've seen people's MPG jump by as much as 20% just from more conservative use of brakes), and unless you have a sports car, keep in mind that you get optimal fuel economy at 55 to 65 MPH -- you know, the speed limit.
and maybe some other stuff too.
I already drive quite nicely.
but they're listening to every word I say
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
Top tier pft. I need that extra 10 cents!
but they're listening to every word I say
and at 6 years, your car could probably use a tuneup... oil change, new plugs (OEM only), wires, air filters (intake and cabin), fuel filter
a transmission drain and fill (i'd avoid a flush, it tends to fuck things up), and a brake fluid replacement would be good as well
all of this stuff can be done inexpensively in your driveway
Yes. Engines with a higher compression ratio can exhibit knocking if non-premium gas is used (though in colder months it's probably fine to use mid grade). If your car doesn't require anything over 87, you don't gain anything by buying premium gas.
Top tier gas has nothing to do with the octane rating. It has to do with how much detergent the gas contains. There is disagreement as to whether more detergent than the minimum standard is beneficial or not, but the list of auto companies that endorse top-tier gas is pretty compelling.
I've had it for about six years. It is 15 years old.
About seafoam... you supporting that brand or knocking it?
but they're listening to every word I say
Per the website:
Gasoline retailers must meet the high TOP TIER standards with all grades of gasoline to be approved by the automakers as providing TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
So that regular you put in to save 10-20 cents has at minimum more than enough detergent as the premium ultra plus if you're buying from a top tier retailer. Which is almost everyone except BP and Exxon... and god only knows what wally-world and other grocery stores use.
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Viewing the forums through rose colored glasses... or Suriko's Ye Old Style and The PostCount/TimeStamp Restoral Device
I will let you guys know how it turns out.
but they're listening to every word I say
Also, just a bottle of Chevron Techron would work as well, and it might be the cheapest thing to try. Just pour it into your tank when you have about a 1/4 tank of gas, and just get the rpms up high and go down the freeway for 5 miles, then fill up with gas.
All youre asking for is to have your car start burning oil, because itll clean the carbon buildup off the piston walls, weakening the seal of the rings and let oil seep into the combustion chamber.
Run it through the vacuum hose if youre going to run it at all. Itll clean out the throttle body but leave the combustion chamber relatively untouched.
DEFINATELY DO NOT run it in the crank case.
If youre dead set on running it through the gas tank, burn that entire tank in a day and get the oil changed immediately after. But i would totally not do it. Its also really hard on seals and other rubber parts (like, you know, your fuel line).
Id just buy some lucas injector cleaner or the STP stuff, and run that. It really does make a difference if you use it sparingly. Use it too much and youll again ruin the seals and lines on your engine.
Changing the sparkplugs, wires and distributor cap are probably the best things you can do, maintenance wise, and those things have no way of causing any adverse affects to your car.
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Pulling in Seafoam through the vacuum line will make the Seafoam part of the intake charge and won't leave the combustion chamber untouched, no?
Also, cars can have multiple vacuum lines, so it's possible to pick one that bypasses the throttle body completely (e.g. the brake booster vacuum line).
I mean look at it this way, you can either spend 10 dollars and do nothing but cause potential harm to your engine, costing you hundreds of more dollars in either engine repairs or replacement, or you can just go the regular normal route everyone else goes of sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and oil change, and have your car keep on running fine.
I run seafoam on all my old cars but ONLY through the vacuum lines and only every 100k KM or so. So its not like im saying its a crap product, it just has the potential to cause more harm than its worth when used in certain ways.
And yeah im mistaken, by throttle body i meant intake manifold.
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Oil change later this week along with spark plugs. May have to take it in for plugs, because there are three that are only accessible by going underneath. Dunno if I want to do that.
but they're listening to every word I say
i support it... i'd use half a bottle in the gas tank, and the other half sucked into a vacuum line... but read up the proper directions online just to be safe
I don't think "top-tier" gasoline here refers to premium etc... but rather to the brand of gas and individual mixtures.
Don't put premium in a car that takes only normal unleaded, as it will actually worsen your mileage and run less efficiently.