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What kind of bicycle do I want to use in NYC?
Cognisseur
Registered User regular
Registered User regular
I'm moving to NYC this summer to attend grad school, and I intend to ride a bike around everywhere I go because I'm going to be poor as all hell.
However, I haven't bought a bike since high school, so I don't know much about what I need.
-Road bike or mountain bike? Is the primary difference the thin tires? Is it a lot more efficient form of travel on those tiny tires? Will they really impair my ability to ride off curbs and such? Will I even be riding off curbs in NYC or are there bike paths everywhere?
-Suspension. It seems like a nice thing, but I see a lot of bikes without them. Since I don't think bone-crushing-against-bone is a selling point, what's the benefit? Is it worth it?
-Fold-up bikes. Are they expensive? Worth it? Can I take it on the subway with me? Do they have other problems?
-Bike engines? I've seen a few around... do they work well? Are they loud? Expensive? Not worth it?
As you can tell, beyond possessing the ability to ride a bike, I'm pretty unknowledgable about the whole thing, so help me out folks.
Thanks!
However, I haven't bought a bike since high school, so I don't know much about what I need.
-Road bike or mountain bike? Is the primary difference the thin tires? Is it a lot more efficient form of travel on those tiny tires? Will they really impair my ability to ride off curbs and such? Will I even be riding off curbs in NYC or are there bike paths everywhere?
-Suspension. It seems like a nice thing, but I see a lot of bikes without them. Since I don't think bone-crushing-against-bone is a selling point, what's the benefit? Is it worth it?
-Fold-up bikes. Are they expensive? Worth it? Can I take it on the subway with me? Do they have other problems?
-Bike engines? I've seen a few around... do they work well? Are they loud? Expensive? Not worth it?
As you can tell, beyond possessing the ability to ride a bike, I'm pretty unknowledgable about the whole thing, so help me out folks.
Thanks!
Cognisseur on
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Road bikes are generally preferred for riding on flat surfaces, and you don't want to take any bike directly up a curb (you'd aim for the ramp portion at an intersection, and you should be riding on the roads anyway, stopping at a curb, and then going up on the sidewalk). The thinner tires have a lot less friction, allowing you to be zippier and generally more responsive.
Fold-up bikes are more expensive than a comparable bike and tend to ride differently, due to their often smaller wheel size. If you're poor, you probably should get a used non-folding bike on craigslist.
Engines are expensive and really not needed in NYC. You may not be knowledgeable about bikes now, but you'll learn quickly and get your endurance up fast once you're riding it every day.
As for taking a full bike on the subway, that's a question for a local afaik.
Does that look like fun to you? Personally, I'd probably be killed within half an hour if I tried biking in a city. If you're going to be in one of the outer boroughs, you might be fine, but if you're anywhere downtown, why not just use the subway all the time? A monthly pass might seem pricey, but transportation is one of those things that you need to pay for somehow, using some combination of time, money, and peace of mind, and urban cycling looks pretty expensive in the latter two areas to me. You'd also have the significant issues of where to store a bike, both at home and at school, and how to keep it safe when you chain it up outside somewhere - even if you invest in a massive heavy-duty chain, it's pretty much impossible to stop people from stealing components or vandalizing. The bolt cutters they brought can't handle your chain? Fine, they'll just snip your spokes and brake lines.
A road bike will have steeper geometry than most MTBS, it will have larger diameter wheels, skinnier tyres and for a given price point will be lighter and faster for a given amount of effort. People often say they want an MTB because it's more durable, but road bikes (unless you get into the territory of incredibly expensive competition-specific bikes) aren't really that delicate. Most of them will handle potholes and kerbs just fine.
Also suspension isn't really to make the ride more comfortable, and if you're on a low budget you'll only find heavy suspension components of very poor quality.
EDIT: Regarding that video, for all that woman says about taking a lane, she's terrible at lane positioning. And for the love of God, whatever you do, never, ever, ever filter down the inside of heavy vehicles like buses or trucks in the manner she did. It is the most common way for cyclists to be killed. They cannot see a small vehicle hard up against their side, and if they start to turn across you, you're fucked.
For what it's worth, I'd avoid any bike lane with pedestrians or parked vehicles in it and use the road. It's a hell of a lot safer. Having said that I don't know what the traffic laws are like in the US and particularly I don't know if cyclists are compelled to use bike lanes where available. In the UK cyclists always have the option of using the road.
Well, I've got a decent amount of biking experience. It's been my primary form of transportation from like 8-18, and I've only stopped biking while in college. So I have pretty reasonable 'riding with cars around' skills, especially because I was riding a motorcycle for most of college so awareness of what other vehicles are doing was constantly on my mind. Nonetheless, I understand adjusting to riding in the city will still be an adjustment, but I think it's one I can handle.
That, and at $100,000 in debt, I won't have any sense of self-preservation.
Regarding suspension, I've had crappy mountain bikes with crappy suspension, and a nice bike with no suspension, and ow no suspension hurts. So unless it's uber expensive or really slows me down, I'll probably take it.
Regarding security, I'm going to live in a crappy area but bring my bike inside. When I take it to grad school, it's in a better area so I won't be as concerned for it's safety, especially since I don't plan to get a nice or shiny bike.
Thin tires can be put on any bike. The benefit of a road bike is that it puts you in a more efficient (though less comfortable) riding position. They will not impair your ability to ride off curbs, just don't plan on hitting curbs with them directly or you will pinch-flat them.
Pointless in a city unless you're 50+ years old and can't handle a little jarring every now and then. Suspension only robs power in a city setting.
I've never used one but most places that don't allow bikes inside will also not allow folding bikes so I don't see the point in them.
If you have any athletic ability your legs will be more powerful than the engine.
And yes Kate, that looks like a lot of fun.
what kind of distance are we talking? if its like 4 miles, honestly you can deal with just about any quality of bike. Get a setup like matt mentioned and you will be fine. i'd go with a cheap cromoly bike, and see how it is. i think the high end bikes are going to be way out of your price range, and probably totally unnecessary. make sure to get a chain, AS WELL as a U-lock. People will snatch your wheels, especially if they are quick release (and most are these days).
So can someone help me out with potential name brands or bike models or something? I really don't know what's "name-brand", what's to be avoided, etc.
So far I've heard:
-Road bike frame because it'll put my body in the right form
-Mountain bike frame because... dunno, but matthasaproblem went on to add road tires to it so there must be some appeal over just getting the road bike to begin with.
-No suspension because I'm a little girl and shouldn't whine
-40 types of locks, strapped to everything at all times, especially while in transit.
-Comfy seat
-Tires I still don't understand. matthasaproblem suggested smooth road tires but then went on to say that road bikes get flats all the time. I'm not following.
And what price range is this going to all be, if I'm doing this crazy customization stuff? I'm looking for fairly cheap... I'm willing to put money into this if I'm going to use it a lot, but as far as where the threshold for "is the extra money worth the extra ________" is, it's pretty low.
I think it's going to depend where you're living and where you're going to be at school.
Definitely don't get anything shiny/that you can't afford to lose.
Suspensions just really aren't designed for constant pedaling over a flat surface, they're meant to absorb the shock of going over rocks and roots, to both give your joints a little rest and make the bike more controllable at a high speed on an uneven surface.
As for a bike lock, there's no such thing as overkill. The longer it's locked up, and the more times you lock it in the same place, the more likely someone is to try and steal it. Something like this - http://www.rei.com/product/731893 will pretty much keep you safe no matter where you lock it. It depends on the weight you want to carry around of course, but most people with chains/locks like that just wear it as a belt while they ride. Loop it through the front tire and frame, and you're good to go. Just make sure that whatever you lock it to is as sturdy as the chain is. And be sure you don't lock it to something that's off limits, as when the DOT or whoever comes to cut the lock off and can't, they'll cut the bike.
You can also buy hybrids, which are road bikes with the upright riding position and flat bars of an MTB.
So let me see if I have this down:
I'm going to try to find a mountain bike frame with mountain bike rims, but smooth road tires. No suspension, scratch it up and add stickers everywhere (which will be fun!), comfy seat, and a strong lock attached to both tire and frame and sturdy thing.
So now I know what category of bike I want, but I'm still lost in a sea of hundreds of bike companies, tire companies, and everything else. Can you guys recommend any good 'value' companies? Something that works reasonably well but not too expensive. I'm not looking for a bottom of the barrel bike, it does have to get me places reasonably well after all, but value is a classy term to use here. Also, is there a huge difference in cost/experience between steel/aluminum frames?
You're going to spend at least $50 on a lock so just accept that fact. If you skimp there you will have no bike.
Get a heavy chain and a good lock. May want to switch out any quick-release posts(seat, wheels) you have as well. You'll see a lot of bike commuters will just take their seats with them, alternatively.
Also, I enjoyed Kate's video - I saw B&H Photo/Video at about the 2:30 mark.
Tires are easy to swap out, make sure to get a flat kit with a toolpod, and some extra tubes. tire levers will pop it right off. a pump isn't a bad idea either. you don't want to be stuck 3 miles away from home or your destination with an unrideable bike.
I'm going to try to find a mountain bike on craigslist for a couple hundred dollars hopefully. Aluminum frame would be nice, but I won't be crushed if I can't find one I can afford.
Once I buy it, I'll need...
-bike tires, and I've found some nice road tires for mountain bikes for like $30
-a mirror, seems useful.
-fenders, if they're cheap
-gel seat
-lights/reflecters/helmet
-tools/spare-tube
-bell (or horn?)
-chainguard?
So, lots of accessorizing to make it a safe and enjoyable commuter bike, but it doesn't seem like it'll be too expensive to accessorize.
As far as the mountain bike itself goes, what kind of dimensions should I look for? I don't really know what the numbers correspond to or how to calculate them. If anyone is willing to just spit a number back out to me, I'm 5'10 and 150lb. For that matter, what dimensions should I try to get for the tires? I read 27.5x1.5 was ideal for mountain bike conversion to commuter bike, is that reasonable?
Lastly, I shouldn't put too much stress on the type of handlebars, brakes, suspension, or gears (so long as the bike comes with 6+), should I? Currently, I'm just looking for low price, preferably light, and in good condition. I'm trying to figure out what stuff is important in buying a bike, what accessories are necessary, things like that. So if I should orient my purchasing around the types of brakes/suspension/gears/handlebars/dimensions, let me know.
Thank you once more guys, I had no idea how unknowledgable I was and how much knowledge one required to make an intelligent purchase.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7zb8YXrmIA
the mountain bike geometry will be better for city riding as you are more upright to see things. the beefier rims will take hits a lot better than a 700cc road bike tire. slicks wil give you the speed and rolling resistance of the road tires
Riding in traffic is actually a lot of fun but you just need to be aware of things around you
fixt
seriously, people steal anything and everything here, and no one cares even if it happens in broad daylight
Whatever you do, don't get one of these locks. They can essentially be jiggled open.
wat.
http://www.wired.com/culture/lifestyle/news/2004/09/64987
Although that was 4 years ago, and they've taken care of the problem supposedly.
Obviously they have. It's not even remotely the same key design.
For locks i've had a few broken into, with 4 bikes stolen so far. I caught some assholes sawing through my braided-metal lock once. I said "hey thats my bike!" and they said "sorry" in English then walked away :P
After that I saw on TV a cop talking about how the U-shaped solid locks are the best and theives generally avoid them as they require the most effort to saw through and take a long time.
Since i've bought the U-lock I haven't had my bike stolen. More than a year with this bike is a record.
I'm not sure if you can buy similar bikes to what they have here in China, as i've never seen them in Canada. But they are amazing city bikes.
I've never popped a tube here, though I have a full road bike. After riding a MTB with knobbys for years, then an MTB with slicks for years, and now a road bike for years, my favorite has been the road bike. It's lightweight, fast and efficient--you can cover a lot more ground before you get fatigued--and if you feel that riding without shocks is painful, just stand up when you hit a bumpy spot.
my suggestion is to get the smallest u-lock that will lock your wheel and some sort of cable to run through the tires and connect back to the u-lock
we have a high bike population here and a lot of bikes go abandoned so i have liberated some. the bikes with a large u-lock were super easy to get to. a small ulock will work well
God, this happens every bike thread.
Kryptonite make pretty much the best locks on the market, along with the Abus Granit series. They made locks five years ago with a particular type of mechanism that was found to be vulnerable to attack. They were recalled and replaced for free. Note that they were not the only manufacturer producing such locks, and they were they only manufacturer to recall and replace them.
Unless you're buying a second hand lock more than five years old you don't need to worry about this.
I'd recommend against a mirror. The problem with them is that you're quite right in saying they 'seem useful' when in fact they aren't. They translate a lot more shake from the bike than a car mirror will and besides which you get much better information and communication by turning your head. Ultimately they give you a false impression of knowing what is going on behind you and encourage not making eye contact with other drivers. Learn to lift one hand from your bars and rotate your entire body to look behind you as well as glancing over your shoulder. Eye contact is a vital cycling skill and you get a much better idea of what's happening behind you by looking directly at it.
Bells and horns are next to worthless in traffic as nobody in cars will hear them. A bell is handy if you are using off-road cycle lanes shared by pedestrians whilst a horn would just be rude. You can get airhorns which other drivers would hear but really if you're in a situation where you feel the need to blast an airhorn your attention would be better served directed at getting your ass out of that situation, not making and indignant BARP! before you're swallowed under the trailer of an 18-wheeler. Learn to shout (both politely and aggressively), that's enough to warn pedestrians of your approach and to scold soccer mom after she cuts you off at a junction.
Chainguards are good but add weight. A trouser clip or reflective trouser strap might be just as useful. And tying your shoelaces.
What kind of cargo are you going to be carrying? You may want to consider a courier bag or panniers.
Also, eye protection. Sunglasses, although you may want untinted lenses as well for night cycling. A little grit can go a long way if it smacks you right in in the eye. You can get really expensive sunglasses with transition lenses, the best of which are suitable for cycling at night, or cheaper sunglasses with replaceable lenses for different light conditions.
Jut to add to this - it was the barrel-type locks specifically that was the problem. Key looked like a jagged Bic pen, and it turns out that was an acceptable substitute to open them.
I've got a On-Guard u-lock with the new type of key, and it seems pretty hefty.
Well that's good, less parts, less weight, less cost, less things to be stolen.
I still don't know what bike dimensions/tire dimensions I need though. Any help on that front?