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So I have aproximately 12-13 13 year old fruit trees in my front yard.
and while for the most part they are healthy, and are starting to put out some good fruit, i was wondering if there were any argarian PA'ers out there who had some hints of how to make them blossom nice and big come next spring, how to deal with vines and little trees sprouting up around the base, fighting off rot and fungus, etc. etc. etc.
Depends on the tree, but there are rules for when and how to prune them to get lots of fruit. The general idea is just to make it so a lot of light gets into the bushy part.
The rules for the base of the tree differ too, but IIRC only citrus and such really need a clear space around the base (as far out as the branch radius), because their roots grow in a mat close to the surface and grasses compete for nutrients in that same space. So mulch that bit, but don't let the mulch pile up around the trunk, or you'll get rot problems.
Other trees can have herbs and grasses around them no problem, and bee-attracting plants like hyssop will be very valuable in getting fruit to set. Orchards benefit from plant biodiversity in the ground storey, it promotes a good population of insects and worms. Plus, a lot of little bushes and stuff are much lower-maintenance than a lawn. Large lawns are for suckers.
Uhhhh, lets see what else....marigolds kill bad nematodes, plus they're pretty, but they're annuals so you'll probably have to chuck some seeds around every year. I can't get any more specific without knowing the trees you have and your climate, but there are heaps of books on this stuff so you might want to invest in one. If you're in the northern hemisphere, you'll have plenty to choose from
The trees are of a mixed variety, mostly apples with a few pear and peach trees scatter about. I live in Northwest georgia, which is generaly hot summers (80 to 90 degrees ferenheight) with high to moderate percepitation (depending on if there's a drought or not, this year we have gotten what feels like endless rainfall) and mild winters bottoming out around 30.
Check to see if there's a Master Gardeners association or some similar local group nearby. Ours is a state program (Oregon), you may have a similar thing.
If they're your standard apples and pit fruit (Prunus family ... almonds, cherries, peaches, plums, all related), and they're that old, don't worry about fertilizer. Fruit trees are exceedingly good at pulling as many nutrients out of the ground as they can, better than most landscaping trees. Best thing you can do:
Keep them clean: rake up leaves and fallen fruit around them. Dispose of it properly, if you're going to compost them keep it covered, and don't use it near the trees once it's decomposed. It can still harbor disease and pest species the tree(s) are susceptible too.
Mulch is an all around good idea. And better to use a compost mulch rather than just chipped bark. If you want to use bark, fine, still better than nothing. Just make sure it's actual shredded outer tree bark, and not say pine chips (which will suck up nutrients like a sponge and generally fuck up your soil microbiology). Spread the mulch in a circle at least 4' diameter, that's about 2' on each side, but wider is better. Though anything past say 5' on each side would be way too much, probably a 6' wide circle would be fine.
As far as pruning, it really depends on not only fruit tree varieties but individual species within. Generally, most pit fruits produce on last years branches. There are exceptions. Also, most apples produce on small stubby branches called spurs. Again, exceptions. Check with a local garden center that you trust, they may know a good arborist in the area who could give you advice and such. Maybe worth it to have him trim up all your trees in the fall or spring, and then you have an idea what needs doing how.
MetroidZoid on
Steam
3DS FC: 4699-5714-8940 Playing Pokemon, add me! Ho, SATAN!
The main thing is you're going to have to learn how to prune the specific trees, and when the bloom comes you will have to thin it if you want to get a lot of nice big fruit.
A good resource is the agricultural extension department of your regional university or talking to the fruit hippies at the local farmers market.
Don't' water just the base of the tree, water all around it since the roots extend out pretty far.
mechaThor on
"I sent an e-mail asking why wood elves get +2 Str when other dwarves did not. My response from customer service consisted of five words: 'Wood elves are really strong.' "
Oh yeah, watering: most people do too much or too little.
You want to give it niiiiice llooooonnggg soaks. Like, get a soaker hose, ring it around the tree a couple times. Not against the trunk, but spread out. Say, one circle a couple feet out, then another ring another couple feet out. And turn that on for a few long hours. However, unless you're in an absolute desert, most fruit trees (the ones we're talking about) can pull what water they already need. You may only need to give it a few waterings when the weather is at it's fucking hottest, and really just to supplement some extra H20 and to help keep the tree cool. Also makes the fruit a little bit better, but don't break your water bill trying to keep a small orchard wet. Unless you're on a well or irrigation, and it's relatively cheap.
And as for how often: only like once a week at most, and that's in like summer when it's over 100. For most of the spring and early summer, you won't be needing to deep soak more than like once every other week. And sprinklers generally (A) don't do shit, and (B) make things worse. Most of the water evaporates, and for as long as you think you're leaving them on, they hardly soak into the soil. So you end up actually not really watering the tree, even though the very top of the soil is wet. Which makes it hard for gasses to pass to and from the soil. Which makes things even worse! Panic! Hey, this is part of my job, I hear all the botanical horror stories. Oh, and another sin against sprinklers: the water spreads disease spores that by themselves would just sit and infect a fallen leaf. On a sprinkler's aim, spread from tree to tree.
MetroidZoid on
Steam
3DS FC: 4699-5714-8940 Playing Pokemon, add me! Ho, SATAN!
Posts
The rules for the base of the tree differ too, but IIRC only citrus and such really need a clear space around the base (as far out as the branch radius), because their roots grow in a mat close to the surface and grasses compete for nutrients in that same space. So mulch that bit, but don't let the mulch pile up around the trunk, or you'll get rot problems.
Other trees can have herbs and grasses around them no problem, and bee-attracting plants like hyssop will be very valuable in getting fruit to set. Orchards benefit from plant biodiversity in the ground storey, it promotes a good population of insects and worms. Plus, a lot of little bushes and stuff are much lower-maintenance than a lawn. Large lawns are for suckers.
Uhhhh, lets see what else....marigolds kill bad nematodes, plus they're pretty, but they're annuals so you'll probably have to chuck some seeds around every year. I can't get any more specific without knowing the trees you have and your climate, but there are heaps of books on this stuff so you might want to invest in one. If you're in the northern hemisphere, you'll have plenty to choose from
If they're your standard apples and pit fruit (Prunus family ... almonds, cherries, peaches, plums, all related), and they're that old, don't worry about fertilizer. Fruit trees are exceedingly good at pulling as many nutrients out of the ground as they can, better than most landscaping trees. Best thing you can do:
Keep them clean: rake up leaves and fallen fruit around them. Dispose of it properly, if you're going to compost them keep it covered, and don't use it near the trees once it's decomposed. It can still harbor disease and pest species the tree(s) are susceptible too.
Mulch is an all around good idea. And better to use a compost mulch rather than just chipped bark. If you want to use bark, fine, still better than nothing. Just make sure it's actual shredded outer tree bark, and not say pine chips (which will suck up nutrients like a sponge and generally fuck up your soil microbiology). Spread the mulch in a circle at least 4' diameter, that's about 2' on each side, but wider is better. Though anything past say 5' on each side would be way too much, probably a 6' wide circle would be fine.
As far as pruning, it really depends on not only fruit tree varieties but individual species within. Generally, most pit fruits produce on last years branches. There are exceptions. Also, most apples produce on small stubby branches called spurs. Again, exceptions. Check with a local garden center that you trust, they may know a good arborist in the area who could give you advice and such. Maybe worth it to have him trim up all your trees in the fall or spring, and then you have an idea what needs doing how.
3DS FC: 4699-5714-8940 Playing Pokemon, add me! Ho, SATAN!
A good resource is the agricultural extension department of your regional university or talking to the fruit hippies at the local farmers market.
You want to give it niiiiice llooooonnggg soaks. Like, get a soaker hose, ring it around the tree a couple times. Not against the trunk, but spread out. Say, one circle a couple feet out, then another ring another couple feet out. And turn that on for a few long hours. However, unless you're in an absolute desert, most fruit trees (the ones we're talking about) can pull what water they already need. You may only need to give it a few waterings when the weather is at it's fucking hottest, and really just to supplement some extra H20 and to help keep the tree cool. Also makes the fruit a little bit better, but don't break your water bill trying to keep a small orchard wet. Unless you're on a well or irrigation, and it's relatively cheap.
And as for how often: only like once a week at most, and that's in like summer when it's over 100. For most of the spring and early summer, you won't be needing to deep soak more than like once every other week. And sprinklers generally (A) don't do shit, and (B) make things worse. Most of the water evaporates, and for as long as you think you're leaving them on, they hardly soak into the soil. So you end up actually not really watering the tree, even though the very top of the soil is wet. Which makes it hard for gasses to pass to and from the soil. Which makes things even worse! Panic! Hey, this is part of my job, I hear all the botanical horror stories. Oh, and another sin against sprinklers: the water spreads disease spores that by themselves would just sit and infect a fallen leaf. On a sprinkler's aim, spread from tree to tree.
3DS FC: 4699-5714-8940 Playing Pokemon, add me! Ho, SATAN!