Good news, everyone! I found a software fix for my mouse that will keep it alive for now. Thanks for the suggestions, and I will keep them in mind for the future!
Oh hey, that's the same fix I use for my Logitech G600!
From what I've read when I started having the problem (been a couple years now), double-clicking seems to just be a thing that happens to Logitech mice after a while.
KwoaruConfident SmirkFlawless Golden PecsRegistered Userregular
edited May 2017
tech thread is there a way to make it so the basic messages app on the galaxy s7 edge opens text message links in chrome instead of either inside the messenger app in some weird ass way or in the default samsung "internet" app
my old phone had a little thing that popped up every time I clicked a link that asked me which browser I wanted to open a link with and I miss that
tech thread is there a way to make it so the basic messenger app on the galaxy s7 edge opens text message links in chrome instead of either inside the messenger app in some weird ass way or in the default samsung "internet" app
my old phone had a little thing that popped up every time I clicked a link that asked me which browser I wanted to open a link with and I miss that
There should be some kind of "app associations" setting you can use to choose your default browser, email app, photo viewer, etc.
tech thread is there a way to make it so the basic messenger app on the galaxy s7 edge opens text message links in chrome instead of either inside the messenger app in some weird ass way or in the default samsung "internet" app
my old phone had a little thing that popped up every time I clicked a link that asked me which browser I wanted to open a link with and I miss that
There should be some kind of "app associations" setting you can use to choose your default browser, email app, photo viewer, etc.
If you want cheaper, but not a pen I have this thing and have no problems. And if you sit on the page long enough they'll drop the price (or did for me at the time)
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mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
oh, well, that's what I get for looking at things on my phone
I read the sellers description - at minimum (200 degrees C) and maximum (450 degrees C) it is accurate, but anywhere in between it can be up to 30 degrees C out... $15 though!
So the mousewheel on my current mouse is essentially broken, and I need a new mouse. For teh gaminz. Now I'm not super hardcore, never messed with weights and stuff, and I don't really need extra buttons, maybe one or two thumb-buttons at most. I don't know jack about sensors, and I don't want to spend a bajillion on a mouse. I've been eyeing the steelseries Rival 100, but I'd like to hear some experiences you guys had.
When it comes to competitive games, I mainly play Overwatch, might look at TF2 and SC2 again
e: the Logitech G502 (with silly RGB lights, but ok) is on sale for ~45 bucks, which puts a higher-range mouse juuust about in my budget range. Looks a little cluttered though, 11 buttons? what
So, I'm thinking of getting a gaming laptop in a few months - I've gotta save up for it first, obviously. I don't need an ultrapowered thing but I'd like something halfway competent. Does anyone know of a site that can evaluate how well a game *should* run when given the specs of a machine? I know of canyourunit, but obviously that just detects the machine you're using, not the one you want to get.
I was thinking of something like the Dell Inspiron 15 5000 or 7000, probably one of the higher-tier models. Seems to get good reviews for a mid-range gaming laptop without getting too overpriced.
I've been thinking about getting this Dell for a while, which is probably one of the models you're looking at.
Going by some of the reviews on that page, the screen seems to let it down a bit, which might be worth considering.
The IPS screens on some of the more expensive models seem to be very good though.
Yeah, I'm thinking I'd go with one of the higher-tier models with a better screen. I'm not TOO bothered by a not-great screen, but...
My real baseline is I'd like to be able to ideally run Witcher 3 on the system with little issue. Unfortunately I don't really having a way of knowing if it will run well, even on the top-line model Inspiron.
Eh, mainly for the portability aspect? I don't get a TON of time to play games at home and even if I do, I try and restrict myself to mainly kid-friendly titles so as to not expose the kids to too much horrific violence. I'm mainly of thinking something I could bring to work and play on my lunch break or something.
I certainly have looked at desktops and I know you can get much better systems for the same price.
I've bought a gaming laptop before and it was kind of an eh investment, because not only are they expensive for something that doesn't stay that current but they don't last that long because they're always running so hot. The battery also ended up being a real issue, to the point where near the end of its life it got literally thirty minutes. I have a Surface Book that can run a ton of stuff, but not necessarily bleeding edge. It's also not giant, which a lot of gaming laptops tend to be.
I'm still months out from making a purchase, but I'm definitely trying to consider the pros and cons of the investment. I know I'd be better off just getting a new PC... Which I may still do instead, honestly. Not like I don't have a 3DS to play on my lunch.
If you do go with a laptop, you want something with at least a Nvidia 1060 6gb. They're the same as the regular desktop part, though they do tend to run a bit slower do to cooling concerns. To use your Witcher 3 example, a 1060 will run it at ~60 fps at a mix of high and ultra setting. A 1050 ti will be about the same at medium settings.
At 1080p of course. A gtx 1070 would be called for if you want to go to 1440p and maintain settings.
Yeah, I was thinking I'd probably want to go with a 1060 at least if I got a laptop.
Right now though I'm definitely leaning a lot more towards just getting a new desktop, though. Mainly because of the aformentioned 3DS, and I'm going to get a Switch at some point too, so it's not as if I'll be wanting for portable gaming.
I've bought a gaming laptop before and it was kind of an eh investment, because not only are they expensive for something that doesn't stay that current but they don't last that long because they're always running so hot. The battery also ended up being a real issue, to the point where near the end of its life it got literally thirty minutes. I have a Surface Book that can run a ton of stuff, but not necessarily bleeding edge. It's also not giant, which a lot of gaming laptops tend to be.
My anecdote of owning a high-end performance laptop for the past 5 years and only having it die recently is that a modern chipset doesn't experience these issues near as often or as severe as one from, say, 8 years back used to. My 9hr batter (realistically about 7hrs) still got 4-5 hours out of a charge at the end of its life and the heat factor which cooked my previous system wasn't really an issue so long as I kept the vents clear. It began to noticeably lose performance in the last year of its life and big-name titles were beginning to get released that the video card couldn't even support but that's kind of the way it goes. It was a 4-5-year-old computer at that point.
Just do yourself a favor and unplug the computer when the battery is full and not in use. It'll save a lot of grief.
I've bought a gaming laptop before and it was kind of an eh investment, because not only are they expensive for something that doesn't stay that current but they don't last that long because they're always running so hot. The battery also ended up being a real issue, to the point where near the end of its life it got literally thirty minutes. I have a Surface Book that can run a ton of stuff, but not necessarily bleeding edge. It's also not giant, which a lot of gaming laptops tend to be.
My anecdote of owning a high-end performance laptop for the past 5 years and only having it die recently is that a modern chipset doesn't experience these issues near as often or as severe as one from, say, 8 years back used to. My 9hr batter (realistically about 7hrs) still got 4-5 hours out of a charge at the end of its life and the heat factor which cooked my previous system wasn't really an issue so long as I kept the vents clear. It began to noticeably lose performance in the last year of its life and big-name titles were beginning to get released that the video card couldn't even support but that's kind of the way it goes. It was a 4-5-year-old computer at that point.
Just do yourself a favor and unplug the computer when the battery is full and not in use. It'll save a lot of grief.
If battery life is a concern, I've heard setting it to "high temp" or 80% max charge helps keep it from degrading as quickly as well.
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JedocIn the scupperswith the staggers and jagsRegistered Userregular
edited May 2017
I've never owned a gaming laptop, but I've been following Rock Paper Shotgun's Laptop Quest with great interest. Alec Meer is trying out a whole bunch of them at various price points and talking about the overall experience with each. He's up to four so far, but if you're still a ways out from the purchase, he might stumble across a real gem for you.
Jedoc on
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BroloBroseidonLord of the BroceanRegistered Userregular
Posts
Oh hey, that's the same fix I use for my Logitech G600!
From what I've read when I started having the problem (been a couple years now), double-clicking seems to just be a thing that happens to Logitech mice after a while.
Yep
my old phone had a little thing that popped up every time I clicked a link that asked me which browser I wanted to open a link with and I miss that
There should be some kind of "app associations" setting you can use to choose your default browser, email app, photo viewer, etc.
This one has really good ratings:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M
This'll do you. Unless you need something fancy, but you did say cheap...
That one does have an adjustable temp control knob.
Try under Apps > Default Apps
If you want cheaper, but not a pen I have this thing and have no problems. And if you sit on the page long enough they'll drop the price (or did for me at the time)
I've used it a few times for soldering keyboards, hasn't given me any issues.
oh, well, that's what I get for looking at things on my phone
I read the sellers description - at minimum (200 degrees C) and maximum (450 degrees C) it is accurate, but anywhere in between it can be up to 30 degrees C out... $15 though!
When it comes to competitive games, I mainly play Overwatch, might look at TF2 and SC2 again
e: the Logitech G502 (with silly RGB lights, but ok) is on sale for ~45 bucks, which puts a higher-range mouse juuust about in my budget range. Looks a little cluttered though, 11 buttons? what
I was thinking of something like the Dell Inspiron 15 5000 or 7000, probably one of the higher-tier models. Seems to get good reviews for a mid-range gaming laptop without getting too overpriced.
Going by some of the reviews on that page, the screen seems to let it down a bit, which might be worth considering.
The IPS screens on some of the more expensive models seem to be very good though.
My real baseline is I'd like to be able to ideally run Witcher 3 on the system with little issue. Unfortunately I don't really having a way of knowing if it will run well, even on the top-line model Inspiron.
I certainly have looked at desktops and I know you can get much better systems for the same price.
At 1080p of course. A gtx 1070 would be called for if you want to go to 1440p and maintain settings.
Right now though I'm definitely leaning a lot more towards just getting a new desktop, though. Mainly because of the aformentioned 3DS, and I'm going to get a Switch at some point too, so it's not as if I'll be wanting for portable gaming.
My anecdote of owning a high-end performance laptop for the past 5 years and only having it die recently is that a modern chipset doesn't experience these issues near as often or as severe as one from, say, 8 years back used to. My 9hr batter (realistically about 7hrs) still got 4-5 hours out of a charge at the end of its life and the heat factor which cooked my previous system wasn't really an issue so long as I kept the vents clear. It began to noticeably lose performance in the last year of its life and big-name titles were beginning to get released that the video card couldn't even support but that's kind of the way it goes. It was a 4-5-year-old computer at that point.
Just do yourself a favor and unplug the computer when the battery is full and not in use. It'll save a lot of grief.
If battery life is a concern, I've heard setting it to "high temp" or 80% max charge helps keep it from degrading as quickly as well.
https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2017/05/an-ai-invented-a-bunch-of-new-paint-colors-that-are-hilariously-wrong/
Sounds like a TF2 map.