jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I'm only worried about emergent costs, which is something houses are wont to do.
I think I'm financially stable enough to do it, but I don't know right now. I've almost paid off the last 15 years of me fucking up royally, almost ($1200 left in doctor bills), but I don't want to go into a house purchase and then need to take out a loan because the inspector missed something.
Maybe another year or two to let my adulting incubate futher.
0
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
There are quite a few here from the 1920's that look p solid, but I don't know if there's some kind of thing where 100 year old houses are bad no matter what.
(I'm only looking casually, but I've noticed quite a few older houses in the city. All of them have modern electrical wiring and insulation and inspected foundations, so I think they may be good)
Bolded = good
I shudder to think about the original wiring in a 20's house
Generally they are cloth wires, and undersized. Which is ok for low amp draws, but when you are pulling 2 amps with an ipad charger, 8-10 amps for a computer and 1 amp for each cell phone. It don't take much to get to 15-20 amps. And if you are lucky you have 16 or 18 gauge wire, and not just some shit they found.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
1. New plumbing work and new whole house water filter on a Saturday (higher rates yay!).
2. Have my old furnace serviced
3. Turned into buying a whole new furnace as the old one (25 years old) was literally leaking some carbon monoxide, amongst other issues
4. Humidifier needs to be replaced, yay
5. Oh hey, some squirrels got into the attic and have been making nests out of the new insulation we had blown in last year. Neat!
For the next couple years we'll probably continue to play the game of whack-a-mole with issues that creep up before we sell..
There are quite a few here from the 1920's that look p solid, but I don't know if there's some kind of thing where 100 year old houses are bad no matter what.
(I'm only looking casually, but I've noticed quite a few older houses in the city. All of them have modern electrical wiring and insulation and inspected foundations, so I think they may be good)
Bolded = good
I shudder to think about the original wiring in a 20's house
Generally they are cloth wires, and undersized. Which is ok for low amp draws, but when you are pulling 2 amps with an ipad charger, 8-10 amps for a computer and 1 amp for each cell phone. It don't take much to get to 15-20 amps. And if you are lucky you have 16 or 18 gauge wire, and not just some shit they found.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
I like how your chart has two separate colors for N/A. I assume they're "Uh, not a good idea..." and "Wait until I leave".
4/0 and 5/0 (not super common) exist but you probably shouldn't ever be in that situation and might consider another solution at that point since you're getting into the types of setups that power companies handle.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+2
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
There are quite a few here from the 1920's that look p solid, but I don't know if there's some kind of thing where 100 year old houses are bad no matter what.
(I'm only looking casually, but I've noticed quite a few older houses in the city. All of them have modern electrical wiring and insulation and inspected foundations, so I think they may be good)
Bolded = good
I shudder to think about the original wiring in a 20's house
Generally they are cloth wires, and undersized. Which is ok for low amp draws, but when you are pulling 2 amps with an ipad charger, 8-10 amps for a computer and 1 amp for each cell phone. It don't take much to get to 15-20 amps. And if you are lucky you have 16 or 18 gauge wire, and not just some shit they found.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
I like how your chart has two separate colors for N/A. I assume they're "Uh, not a good idea..." and "Wait until I leave".
It's you probably shouldn't do that.
I'll call the fire department because you are an idiot.
So currently planning on doing this towards the end of the year. But I figure I should ask about any unknowns or important things to know about this particular process that I may not have known or need to look out for.
I'm planning on selling my current house and getting a new more permanent house. Same general area. Plan is to get a new place before selling the old place. I can handle paying for both while waiting for the old one to sell. Is there anything particularly bad about that? Are there downsides to that? Are there better options?
I also saw that you don't get taxed on money gained by selling your primary residence and I just wanted to make sure that moving into another place as I am selling my old house wouldn't interfere with that. I assume not as that would be silly but some of the wording on when I looked it up seemed a uncertain.
Thanks in advance for any advice and/or information!
The general rule is that you do not owe any taxes on the first $500,000$250,000/$500,000 of *gains* on the sale of your primary residence. To count as a primary residence, you need to have lived in the house at least two of the previous five years. So you can hold onto the house on the side for up to three years (even renting it out for that time) and still pay no taxes on the sale (so long as you're not making more than a half million in profit).
Disclaimer: I'm not a professional accountant, never trust info from a web forum, recommend checking with a tax lawyer for your situation, etc, etc.
Edit: A minor correction: the excluded gain for selling your home is $250,000 for individuals or $500,000 for married couples.
Perfect thanks for the info! And yea the gain is much below that level so no worries about crossing that threshold.
There are quite a few here from the 1920's that look p solid, but I don't know if there's some kind of thing where 100 year old houses are bad no matter what.
(I'm only looking casually, but I've noticed quite a few older houses in the city. All of them have modern electrical wiring and insulation and inspected foundations, so I think they may be good)
Bolded = good
I shudder to think about the original wiring in a 20's house
Generally they are cloth wires, and undersized. Which is ok for low amp draws, but when you are pulling 2 amps with an ipad charger, 8-10 amps for a computer and 1 amp for each cell phone. It don't take much to get to 15-20 amps. And if you are lucky you have 16 or 18 gauge wire, and not just some shit they found.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
I like how your chart has two separate colors for N/A. I assume they're "Uh, not a good idea..." and "Wait until I leave".
It's you probably shouldn't do that.
I'll call the fire department because you are an idiot.
It's not coloured the right way for that.
The length of the wire (should) only matters in terms of the total voltage loss from using the wire.
So you want a thicker wire when you go further, so that your stuff still runs at the other end.
High amps and a thin wire is when you start calling the fire department.
Which would make the two zones change at the diagonal or something.
There are quite a few here from the 1920's that look p solid, but I don't know if there's some kind of thing where 100 year old houses are bad no matter what.
(I'm only looking casually, but I've noticed quite a few older houses in the city. All of them have modern electrical wiring and insulation and inspected foundations, so I think they may be good)
Bolded = good
I shudder to think about the original wiring in a 20's house
Generally they are cloth wires, and undersized. Which is ok for low amp draws, but when you are pulling 2 amps with an ipad charger, 8-10 amps for a computer and 1 amp for each cell phone. It don't take much to get to 15-20 amps. And if you are lucky you have 16 or 18 gauge wire, and not just some shit they found.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
I like how your chart has two separate colors for N/A. I assume they're "Uh, not a good idea..." and "Wait until I leave".
It's you probably shouldn't do that.
I'll call the fire department because you are an idiot.
It's not coloured the right way for that.
The length of the wire (should) only matters in terms of the total voltage loss from using the wire.
So you want a thicker wire when you go further, so that your stuff still runs at the other end.
High amps and a thin wire is when you start calling the fire department.
Which would make the two zones change at the diagonal or something.
Ok, so the bigger the gauge the smaller the wire. For example, most speaker wire is 16 gauge about 1/20th of an inch in diameter.1 aught wire (1/0) is about a 1/3rd of an inch in diameter.
So in regards to the chart a 16 gauge wire should only be used in 10 amp runs at 6 ft 15 amp runs at 4 ft and 20 amp runs at 2 feet. Honestly you'd never use the stuff except for speakers.
14 gauge wire is what was the standard, and for a 15 amp circuit it can be rated for 10 feet, but these days most everything except 220 comes in at 12 gauge. 220 comes in at 10 gauge in modern houses, the higher voltage means that even a lower amp system has higher watts, so you have to use bigger wiring.
However, there are a few general rules that are easy to follow for copper wiring, assuming you aren't trying to run 500' of wire:
15A circuits - 14 ga
20A circuits - 12 ga
30A circuits - 10 ga
40A/50A circuits - 8 ga
50A/60A - 6 ga (or maybe 4 ga @ 60A if the insulation is only 60 C rated).
This covers the most common loads in a household. Sizes smaller than 14 ga are NOT PERMITTED AFAIK. If you're doing major electrical renovation, you may be required to replace all receptacle/lighting breakers with AFCI breakers, which can significantly increase your install costs (they are 4-5 times more expensive per breaker).
4/0 and 5/0 (not super common) exist but you probably shouldn't ever be in that situation and might consider another solution at that point since you're getting into the types of setups that power companies handle.
Once you go past 4/0, sizes are typically measured in kcmil. 4/0 is about ~210 kcmil (MCM), so the next size up that is commonly available is 250 MCM. Most 200A service drops are either 4/0 or 250 MCM, assuming reasonable distance from the pole and are typically Al wire. Underground feeders can be larger than 250 MCM since you have to derate the cable if you go underground.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
My house was built in the 60's and I'm moderately terrified to look to closely at the wiring. A lot of it was renovated fairly recently so it should be good but I don't trust people not to shit it up. Additionally they put a sub panel in and didn't label a single breaker.
I was super fortunate in that the wiring in my early 60's house was all replaced in the 80's, so no aluminum wiring for me!
Our first house had aluminum wiring and we were considering doing by-room renovations and upgrading the wire as we went (and while we were at it, add in some ethernet drops).
Instead, we sold the house.
It was Not Fun having to pigtail every frequently used switch and receptacle with copper. Also the AL-to-Cu wire nuts (which have an electrolyte/goop that inhibits oxidation and keeps the twisted pair properly connected) were like $3.50 US *per nut*.
By Monday when it started raining I had the structure up, the ladder and climbing wall on, and the collar and two tube slide sections attached, then had to stop due to rain. Tuesday it rained some during the day, so Henry wasn't outside. Today had a clear forecast, and I realized yesterday that I'd basically built a two-floor deathtrap for him, as it had a ladder up, half a tube slide and a big gaping hole with no slide. He's 4 1/2 so no amount of "don't play on it" would've prevented him from playing on it today while I'm at work and Nickie's taking care of the baby. So I got home around 7:30 last night and went to work, put the last two sections of tube on, the exit hole, the clamps around all the joints, the two slide supports, and the double front slide. All of the tube slide stuff was done with just a screwdriver and a box wrench, so it went quietly. The double slide though needed 4 large screws through the top of it into the frame of the structure. I drilled the pilot holes and started driving the screws, and they all shrieked. And not just a little screw squeak, Nickie could hear it inside, on the 2nd floor, with the TV on. A sustained, high pitched shriek the full length of each 3 inch screw. Each one was like a cat orgy descending into a cat fight. I was waiting for the cops to show up, it was so bad.
This morning Henry woke up and I told him to look outside and tell me what he saw, he goes "Slides!" I ask him, are you excited to go play on it today? and he replies "No, the roof isn't done yet."
Fucker.
matt has a problem on
+42
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
If I was a billionaire building my own house, I'd wire the whole place with gold plated copper wire. Mostly because that's a far useful task for the gold than sitting in a box somewhere.
If I was a billionaire building my own house, I'd wire the whole place with gold plated copper wire. Mostly because that's a far useful task for the gold than sitting in a box somewhere.
Meh, silver wires would actually be useful because silver is a better conductor than gold or copper.
If I was a billionaire building my own house, I'd wire the whole place with gold plated copper wire. Mostly because that's a far useful task for the gold than sitting in a box somewhere.
Meh, silver wires would actually be useful because silver is a better conductor than gold or copper.
You've got to deal with corrosion though, which is why you see gold more often than silver in electrical stuff.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+7
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
If I was a billionaire building my own house, I'd wire the whole place with gold plated copper wire. Mostly because that's a far useful task for the gold than sitting in a box somewhere.
Meh, silver wires would actually be useful because silver is a better conductor than gold or copper.
Really? I thought gold was better.
:checks google:
Well I'll be. I stand corrected. I wanna change my answer though. Wire my billionaire house up with graphene. I wanna make the superstructure out of carbon fiber with graphene wiring integrated directly in.
If I was a billionaire building my own house, I'd wire the whole place with gold plated copper wire. Mostly because that's a far useful task for the gold than sitting in a box somewhere.
Meh, silver wires would actually be useful because silver is a better conductor than gold or copper.
You've got to deal with corrosion though, which is why you see gold more often than silver in electrical stuff.
Silver is more prone to corrosion than gold but less than copper.
+4
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Also why dissimilar metals is a huge concern when doing commercial construction. If you have galvanized steel struts connecting stainless steel beams the struts start corroding super fast, effectively providing cathodic protection for the stainless.
Also why dissimilar metals is a huge concern when doing commercial construction. If you have galvanized steel struts connecting stainless steel beams the struts start corroding super fast, effectively providing cathodic protection for the stainless.
I love sacrificial anode systems they're cool to watch.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Ah..so my this thread is right up my alley. Finally got an offer accepted, the Denver metro market is nuts.
Tell me about it. We bought up in Arvada a few years back and our home value has already gone up by $100,000. Our home was meant to be kind of a first home but now we look around and wonder what we'd really get that is much better in a couple more years.
Also why dissimilar metals is a huge concern when doing commercial construction. If you have galvanized steel struts connecting stainless steel beams the struts start corroding super fast, effectively providing cathodic protection for the stainless.
I love sacrificial anode systems they're cool to watch.
there's a frightening story of how a lot of the US transport ships in ww2 were probably victims of sacrificial anode corrosion and NOT u-boat attacks.
Also why dissimilar metals is a huge concern when doing commercial construction. If you have galvanized steel struts connecting stainless steel beams the struts start corroding super fast, effectively providing cathodic protection for the stainless.
I love sacrificial anode systems they're cool to watch.
there's a frightening story of how a lot of the US transport ships in ww2 were probably victims of sacrificial anode corrosion and NOT u-boat attacks.
That's why boat zinc's are a thing.
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
So, motherfucking ants. Can anyone stop the damn ants? I live in the PNW at the bottom of a hill next to a creek, so a watery plot that doesn't help. Every time it rains, it's just an ant invasion. We keep our shit clean, trap their areas, even have a standing contract with an exterminator, but the only thing that stops them is sunshine. Anyone have any secret wizard knowledge to finally defeat the ants once and for all?
I've had success with borax bait. I mean, another nest will move in eventually and you do it again, but the Terro borax, or even homemade stuff, where they take it and bring it back to the nest has worked like a charm consistently.
So, motherfucking ants. Can anyone stop the damn ants? I live in the PNW at the bottom of a hill next to a creek, so a watery plot that doesn't help. Every time it rains, it's just an ant invasion. We keep our shit clean, trap their areas, even have a standing contract with an exterminator, but the only thing that stops them is sunshine. Anyone have any secret wizard knowledge to finally defeat the ants once and for all?
what kind?
growing up we had the big carpenter ants that would come in every year (also PNW for whatever that's worth)
once as a teen I got fed up, found a costco 4-pack of RAID in the garage, and absolutely drenched the entire perimeter/baseboards of the house
didn't see them for a couple of years after that
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Posts
I think I'm financially stable enough to do it, but I don't know right now. I've almost paid off the last 15 years of me fucking up royally, almost ($1200 left in doctor bills), but I don't want to go into a house purchase and then need to take out a loan because the inspector missed something.
Maybe another year or two to let my adulting incubate futher.
So first thing to do is check for a ground, if it has a proper ground, at least the wiring is 1970.
And Replacing wiring is not a huge deal if you include it in the renovation scope. Like if you buy an old house, you are probably planning on replacing or bypassing some/all of the plumbing replacing drywall redoing bathrooms kitchens, that sort of thing. So this is something you go into it thinking 25k renovation on top of purchasing costs.
If you just plan at the beginning to replace the electrical box and wiring when the walls are opened up. It's only 5k-7k. If you have a contract and they tell you, that you have to replace these and it is an out of scope change, you are in the 10k-12k land.
1. New plumbing work and new whole house water filter on a Saturday (higher rates yay!).
2. Have my old furnace serviced
3. Turned into buying a whole new furnace as the old one (25 years old) was literally leaking some carbon monoxide, amongst other issues
4. Humidifier needs to be replaced, yay
5. Oh hey, some squirrels got into the attic and have been making nests out of the new insulation we had blown in last year. Neat!
For the next couple years we'll probably continue to play the game of whack-a-mole with issues that creep up before we sell..
I like how your chart has two separate colors for N/A. I assume they're "Uh, not a good idea..." and "Wait until I leave".
I'll call the fire department because you are an idiot.
Well that’s not nice!
Perfect thanks for the info! And yea the gain is much below that level so no worries about crossing that threshold.
It's not coloured the right way for that.
The length of the wire (should) only matters in terms of the total voltage loss from using the wire.
So you want a thicker wire when you go further, so that your stuff still runs at the other end.
High amps and a thin wire is when you start calling the fire department.
Which would make the two zones change at the diagonal or something.
So in regards to the chart a 16 gauge wire should only be used in 10 amp runs at 6 ft 15 amp runs at 4 ft and 20 amp runs at 2 feet. Honestly you'd never use the stuff except for speakers.
14 gauge wire is what was the standard, and for a 15 amp circuit it can be rated for 10 feet, but these days most everything except 220 comes in at 12 gauge. 220 comes in at 10 gauge in modern houses, the higher voltage means that even a lower amp system has higher watts, so you have to use bigger wiring.
Here is a NEC Chart for ampacity
However, there are a few general rules that are easy to follow for copper wiring, assuming you aren't trying to run 500' of wire:
15A circuits - 14 ga
20A circuits - 12 ga
30A circuits - 10 ga
40A/50A circuits - 8 ga
50A/60A - 6 ga (or maybe 4 ga @ 60A if the insulation is only 60 C rated).
This covers the most common loads in a household. Sizes smaller than 14 ga are NOT PERMITTED AFAIK. If you're doing major electrical renovation, you may be required to replace all receptacle/lighting breakers with AFCI breakers, which can significantly increase your install costs (they are 4-5 times more expensive per breaker).
Once you go past 4/0, sizes are typically measured in kcmil. 4/0 is about ~210 kcmil (MCM), so the next size up that is commonly available is 250 MCM. Most 200A service drops are either 4/0 or 250 MCM, assuming reasonable distance from the pole and are typically Al wire. Underground feeders can be larger than 250 MCM since you have to derate the cable if you go underground.
I was super fortunate in that the wiring in my early 60's house was all replaced in the 80's, so no aluminum wiring for me!
wish list
Steam wishlist
Etsy wishlist
what a shitshow that was
Our first house had aluminum wiring and we were considering doing by-room renovations and upgrading the wire as we went (and while we were at it, add in some ethernet drops).
Instead, we sold the house.
It was Not Fun having to pigtail every frequently used switch and receptacle with copper. Also the AL-to-Cu wire nuts (which have an electrolyte/goop that inhibits oxidation and keeps the twisted pair properly connected) were like $3.50 US *per nut*.
By Monday when it started raining I had the structure up, the ladder and climbing wall on, and the collar and two tube slide sections attached, then had to stop due to rain. Tuesday it rained some during the day, so Henry wasn't outside. Today had a clear forecast, and I realized yesterday that I'd basically built a two-floor deathtrap for him, as it had a ladder up, half a tube slide and a big gaping hole with no slide. He's 4 1/2 so no amount of "don't play on it" would've prevented him from playing on it today while I'm at work and Nickie's taking care of the baby. So I got home around 7:30 last night and went to work, put the last two sections of tube on, the exit hole, the clamps around all the joints, the two slide supports, and the double front slide. All of the tube slide stuff was done with just a screwdriver and a box wrench, so it went quietly. The double slide though needed 4 large screws through the top of it into the frame of the structure. I drilled the pilot holes and started driving the screws, and they all shrieked. And not just a little screw squeak, Nickie could hear it inside, on the 2nd floor, with the TV on. A sustained, high pitched shriek the full length of each 3 inch screw. Each one was like a cat orgy descending into a cat fight. I was waiting for the cops to show up, it was so bad.
This morning Henry woke up and I told him to look outside and tell me what he saw, he goes "Slides!" I ask him, are you excited to go play on it today? and he replies "No, the roof isn't done yet."
Fucker.
You've got to deal with corrosion though, which is why you see gold more often than silver in electrical stuff.
Really? I thought gold was better.
:checks google:
Well I'll be. I stand corrected. I wanna change my answer though. Wire my billionaire house up with graphene. I wanna make the superstructure out of carbon fiber with graphene wiring integrated directly in.
I love sacrificial anode systems they're cool to watch.
Tell me about it. We bought up in Arvada a few years back and our home value has already gone up by $100,000. Our home was meant to be kind of a first home but now we look around and wonder what we'd really get that is much better in a couple more years.
there's a frightening story of how a lot of the US transport ships in ww2 were probably victims of sacrificial anode corrosion and NOT u-boat attacks.
That's why boat zinc's are a thing.
Come Overwatch with meeeee
what kind?
growing up we had the big carpenter ants that would come in every year (also PNW for whatever that's worth)
once as a teen I got fed up, found a costco 4-pack of RAID in the garage, and absolutely drenched the entire perimeter/baseboards of the house
didn't see them for a couple of years after that
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies