Here in town we have a climbing gym that are converted grain silos. The tallest route is 100 feet, a technically easy route (all jugs) on regular top rope.
I was amused at the fumbled clipping at the end of that video. I was just explaining to a friend who hasn't learned to lead yet that clipping isn't as easy as it looks sometimes.
I think probably the most exposed thing I have led is a climb at Seneca Rocks. This isn't my video but it's the route. You cross this section that is a couple of feet wide with a long drop to either side. Very cool route, and it's only 5.3
I was amused at the fumbled clipping at the end of that video. I was just explaining to a friend who hasn't learned to lead yet that clipping isn't as easy as it looks sometimes.
I think probably the most exposed thing I have led is a climb at Seneca Rocks. This isn't my video but it's the route. You cross this section that is a couple of feet wide with a long drop to either side. Very cool route, and it's only 5.3
I was amused at the fumbled clipping at the end of that video. I was just explaining to a friend who hasn't learned to lead yet that clipping isn't as easy as it looks sometimes.
I think probably the most exposed thing I have led is a climb at Seneca Rocks. This isn't my video but it's the route. You cross this section that is a couple of feet wide with a long drop to either side. Very cool route, and it's only 5.3
I love Seneca Rocks. It's the old-schooliest of the old school East Coast climbing spots. Plus the hike up around to the big platform behind it just makes it super accessible to even newbies. The climbing school the shop there runs is top notch (or it was. I guess my knowledge is pretty dated).
I had a chance to climb the Gendarme before it toppled, which is pretty neat.
Alright climbing thread, I come for your assistance.
Climbing gym just announced their annual 12 Hour Climbing Event, and one of the things they encourage is costumes.
Last year I had a flash of inspiration and my partner and I went as "The Gastons". Ended up winning best costume. 2nd place was our friends "Pulp Friction"
So we have a legacy to live up to now, but I'm drawing a blank! Luckily it's not till August.
Any ideas? I'm trying to think of a way to incorporate wrestling or the MCU costumes into a climbing pun/climbing related team name.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
This was fun as always, but this year I really pushed myself even more than before. And I had been working out more, climbing more, so it lead to me setting a personal best of 154 routes, with the average of them being 5.8s and v2, with some v3s and 5.10s being my high points.
Ended up almost cracking the top 10 in my division, which I was super happy with, I placed 12.
Some pics.
Next year will be the 5th year of the comp, and apparently we're the only team that's been in it since the beginning and been doing it every year, so we may get a special award.
Either way, Insane Climbing Possee is ready to go...now to figure out how to keep our makeup from running.
I love that me and my 5 friends are on the cover (Teams Flapper, Sendiana Jones and Thor RagnaROCK).
Also ended up 3rd in distance in my division, with .58 miles climbed, which is neat!
Kyougu on
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Sup, gumbies. I've been absent, but climbing all the while.
Might i recommend the Youtube channel First Person Beta? Just like it sounds, first-person footage of climbing some really need (mostly trad) routes. https://www.youtube.com/user/RandomDiscourse
Been hitting the gym pretty hard lately and comfortably leading in the 5.10 range, having done a lot to get over my lead head. I'll be in Zion next week, but sadly it looks like it will be too cold to do any climbing.
I was at the gym earlier this week, and one of the employees was giving some new (female) climbers the usual orientation they do to anyone attending the gym for the first time.
"I consider the wall the canvas and my body the paintbrush"
That's something he actually told them, and I couldn't help but laugh a little too loud.
that guy definitely played/plays a lot of "Hey There Delilah"
i suspect i fucked up my shoulder by sleeping on it wrong, so after a couple too-early returns to the wall, i've been out for *checks watch* a month or two, make that from Sept 28th ffffffff
on the upside, i currently have full range of motion! ...teach me to sleep on my side on the couch..
As it turns out, doing away entirely with toprope and auto-belay does wonders for one's lead head. I went from 5.9 to 5.11 in just a few weeks.
That said, it was in my style - burly, bouldery moves between good rests. I still need to work hard on endurance on overhung routes.
nice!
For endurance, I found nothing ever compared to up and down climbing 5.8-5.9 routes to exhaustion. Just pick one random day a week and beat the crap out of yourself. If your partner time is limited, do the same thing with some longer v0-v1 stuff.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
As it turns out, doing away entirely with toprope and auto-belay does wonders for one's lead head. I went from 5.9 to 5.11 in just a few weeks.
That said, it was in my style - burly, bouldery moves between good rests. I still need to work hard on endurance on overhung routes.
nice!
For endurance, I found nothing ever compared to up and down climbing 5.8-5.9 routes to exhaustion. Just pick one random day a week and beat the crap out of yourself. If your partner time is limited, do the same thing with some longer v0-v1 stuff.
Yeah, I've done ARCing sessions but haven't gotten around to structured 4x4s or whatever. I do end my sessions with laps on the autos until I'm falling off 5.9s, tho
As it turns out, doing away entirely with toprope and auto-belay does wonders for one's lead head. I went from 5.9 to 5.11 in just a few weeks.
That said, it was in my style - burly, bouldery moves between good rests. I still need to work hard on endurance on overhung routes.
nice!
For endurance, I found nothing ever compared to up and down climbing 5.8-5.9 routes to exhaustion. Just pick one random day a week and beat the crap out of yourself. If your partner time is limited, do the same thing with some longer v0-v1 stuff.
Yeah, I've done ARCing sessions but haven't gotten around to structured 4x4s or whatever. I do end my sessions with laps on the autos until I'm falling off 5.9s, tho
I just hate endurance work so much
Yep, it sucks. We used to play games with it too, like opposite hands, Dyno every move or match every move. You get some REAL interesting beta.
TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Did some climbing on my way through St George, UT this weekend
Good weather; a little chilly, but dry!
We saw 2 other pairs. One, a guy and his much younger female partner, taking his hands off the brake to snap pics. The other, a younger guy and his still-much-younger female partner, toproping through the fixed gear and hopping on the climb without having taught her how to belay or lower(!)
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Also canyoneering is hilarious
Everyone wear helmets and use a bomber prusik on this rappel, which you'll note is on two bolts with a webbing masterpoint and threaded through a single, half-worn quicklink
TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
edited January 2019
Hell yeah, regularly on-sighting 11s in the gym now, which is a great feeling right before a climbing trip.
I started the program from Rock Climber's Training Manual and fell off sometime in the last phase, but I think when I get back would be a good time to restart, since the 'performance' phase would land right around springtime. Time to shred the gnar, my bros
How long do your shoes last? I eat through the rubber on the toes (always the left, for some reason) in about two years and I only climb once a week.
That seems like a fast burn rate for 1/week climbing. Next time you're on the wall, try to pay attention to whether you're dragging your toes when you step from hold to hold. Try to focus on placing your feet on the next hold rather than scrubbing across the wall.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Yeah, what Tynnan said - footwork matters a lot
Practice. Look at a foothold and don't take your eyes off until your foot is on it. Practice not repositioning your foot, and try to place it silently. Try to avoid dragging your feet up the wall.
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Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
Scrubbing feet in climbing is kind of like kipping a lift in free weights, it's a breakdown of form that comes from getting fatigued. If you notice that it's happening, it's a sign to focus on technique rather than on route difficulty.
I just got my first passport ever and booked tickets for Peru for one of my best friend's wedding.
I'm excited since not only will it be my first international trip, but apparently Peru has some great climbing spots and we already booked days to do some climbing there.
Never in my life would I have thought that I would find myself outdoor climbing in another country.
It has been long enough since this event that I can recount it and only feel a little terrible instead of super terrible.
Back story: I have not done any lead climbing in years. The size difference between my wife and I is too great for it to be safe (yes, we have thought about an Ohm) so we stick to top rope. This means that there are a few walls in my gym that I have never actually climbed.
A few weeks ago someone offers to lead belay for me. I am all for it because I suffer from delusions of grandeur.
First climb, back clip. Stop, fix that.
Second clip, Z-clip. Unclip first clip, look up at second, and yes, back clipped.
At this point an employee walks over and very politely tells be to get down before I kill myself, then (appropriately) takes my lead tag.
Not one of my finer moments.
chamberlain on
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Posts
Here in town we have a climbing gym that are converted grain silos. The tallest route is 100 feet, a technically easy route (all jugs) on regular top rope.
I still get super freaked out climbing it.
It's actually super weird watching your legs just start wiggling with zero input as your body goes through a subconscious fear response.
I think probably the most exposed thing I have led is a climb at Seneca Rocks. This isn't my video but it's the route. You cross this section that is a couple of feet wide with a long drop to either side. Very cool route, and it's only 5.3
That spot and then the 5.2 traverse or whatever it is are so trippy. "I could do this without a rope. But I won't."
I love Seneca Rocks. It's the old-schooliest of the old school East Coast climbing spots. Plus the hike up around to the big platform behind it just makes it super accessible to even newbies. The climbing school the shop there runs is top notch (or it was. I guess my knowledge is pretty dated).
I had a chance to climb the Gendarme before it toppled, which is pretty neat.
(Not me)
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2
Can confirm, still top notch. Took a two day learn to lead (trad) course with The Gendarme (shop, not the feature
Very cool re climbing The Gendarme!
Climbing gym just announced their annual 12 Hour Climbing Event, and one of the things they encourage is costumes.
Last year I had a flash of inspiration and my partner and I went as "The Gastons". Ended up winning best costume. 2nd place was our friends "Pulp Friction"
So we have a legacy to live up to now, but I'm drawing a blank! Luckily it's not till August.
Any ideas? I'm trying to think of a way to incorporate wrestling or the MCU costumes into a climbing pun/climbing related team name.
Leonardo De Crimpy?
This was fun as always, but this year I really pushed myself even more than before. And I had been working out more, climbing more, so it lead to me setting a personal best of 154 routes, with the average of them being 5.8s and v2, with some v3s and 5.10s being my high points.
Ended up almost cracking the top 10 in my division, which I was super happy with, I placed 12.
Some pics.
Next year will be the 5th year of the comp, and apparently we're the only team that's been in it since the beginning and been doing it every year, so we may get a special award.
Either way, Insane Climbing Possee is ready to go...now to figure out how to keep our makeup from running.
EDIT:
Blog post about the comp is up, in case anyone is curious.
http://summitgyms.com/blog/2018/8/28/12hss
I love that me and my 5 friends are on the cover (Teams Flapper, Sendiana Jones and Thor RagnaROCK).
Also ended up 3rd in distance in my division, with .58 miles climbed, which is neat!
Might i recommend the Youtube channel First Person Beta? Just like it sounds, first-person footage of climbing some really need (mostly trad) routes.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RandomDiscourse
Been hitting the gym pretty hard lately and comfortably leading in the 5.10 range, having done a lot to get over my lead head. I'll be in Zion next week, but sadly it looks like it will be too cold to do any climbing.
"I consider the wall the canvas and my body the paintbrush"
That's something he actually told them, and I couldn't help but laugh a little too loud.
i suspect i fucked up my shoulder by sleeping on it wrong, so after a couple too-early returns to the wall, i've been out for *checks watch* a month or two, make that from Sept 28th ffffffff
on the upside, i currently have full range of motion! ...teach me to sleep on my side on the couch..
As it turns out, doing away entirely with toprope and auto-belay does wonders for one's lead head. I went from 5.9 to 5.11 in just a few weeks.
That said, it was in my style - burly, bouldery moves between good rests. I still need to work hard on endurance on overhung routes.
nice!
For endurance, I found nothing ever compared to up and down climbing 5.8-5.9 routes to exhaustion. Just pick one random day a week and beat the crap out of yourself. If your partner time is limited, do the same thing with some longer v0-v1 stuff.
Yeah, I've done ARCing sessions but haven't gotten around to structured 4x4s or whatever. I do end my sessions with laps on the autos until I'm falling off 5.9s, tho
I just hate endurance work so much
Yep, it sucks. We used to play games with it too, like opposite hands, Dyno every move or match every move. You get some REAL interesting beta.
Usually get to around 16 or 17 before things get really sloppy, and if I run out of 0s I start tackling V1s.
Good weather; a little chilly, but dry!
We saw 2 other pairs. One, a guy and his much younger female partner, taking his hands off the brake to snap pics. The other, a younger guy and his still-much-younger female partner, toproping through the fixed gear and hopping on the climb without having taught her how to belay or lower(!)
Everyone wear helmets and use a bomber prusik on this rappel, which you'll note is on two bolts with a webbing masterpoint and threaded through a single, half-worn quicklink
I sent a 5.11- today. Felt good.
I started the program from Rock Climber's Training Manual and fell off sometime in the last phase, but I think when I get back would be a good time to restart, since the 'performance' phase would land right around springtime. Time to shred the gnar, my bros
Just hopping out the door for work but I need to start hanging out in this thread.
That seems like a fast burn rate for 1/week climbing. Next time you're on the wall, try to pay attention to whether you're dragging your toes when you step from hold to hold. Try to focus on placing your feet on the next hold rather than scrubbing across the wall.
Practice. Look at a foothold and don't take your eyes off until your foot is on it. Practice not repositioning your foot, and try to place it silently. Try to avoid dragging your feet up the wall.
Okay, something new to work on.
I am very tired.
I'm excited since not only will it be my first international trip, but apparently Peru has some great climbing spots and we already booked days to do some climbing there.
Never in my life would I have thought that I would find myself outdoor climbing in another country.
Back story: I have not done any lead climbing in years. The size difference between my wife and I is too great for it to be safe (yes, we have thought about an Ohm) so we stick to top rope. This means that there are a few walls in my gym that I have never actually climbed.
A few weeks ago someone offers to lead belay for me. I am all for it because I suffer from delusions of grandeur.
First climb, back clip. Stop, fix that.
Second clip, Z-clip. Unclip first clip, look up at second, and yes, back clipped.
At this point an employee walks over and very politely tells be to get down before I kill myself, then (appropriately) takes my lead tag.
Not one of my finer moments.