Even at an art crit the reaction would be "looks amazing at a distance, but you obviously ran out of time and had to rush the soldiers." I mean in fairness I don't think yours would place first either, but neither should that have won, especially when the criteria is for a squad of human sized models no taller than 50mm, 5cm, or roughly 2.5 inches. That pushes credulity, if I were a judge I'd have voted for disqualification or to judge the model solely on the soldiers, in which case it falls flat and doesn't place first.
To me it's blatant inside favouritism. I would like scans of those handouts though, might be some useful tips in there.
In other news I attempted airbrush practise, first time I've ever used one. Bought a cheap one years ago but never used it, there was NO online resources that seemed half decent. Now with the power of the INTERNET I was able to find the proper mediums, mixes, and paints within one evening of thinking "hey maybe I'll give this thing a try again."
Blending and guaging where your spray is going to hit is hard :c
And now they are in acetone until tonight where I'll clean/prime and give it another try tomorrow.
While I work on getting these sheets scanned, I thought i'd share some pics of an army with you guys.
My good friend and his brother tag-teamed this amazing army. One converted all the models, the other did all of the painting. They took it to Adepticon, and it took overall army and won the tournament for Warhammer Fantasy. I worked side by side with my friend while he painted this, and it was a real joy to see it come together.
Also, excuse the bad lighting - all I had were a couple of lamps and my phone.
Behold! It's Christmas time for Nurgle! (and a few pink horrors)
So, Level 7 Omega Protocol is an awesome game and everyone should check it out. I'd sum it up as Space-Hulk, meets XCOM, meets Left4Dead. Five player co-op commandos, fighting against mutant aliens controlled by an overlord player in a labyrinthine, underground secret government laboratory.. Board game night goodness!
The game comes with tonnes of minis, which despite Privateer Press's usual quality, aren't the greatest to work with. They're fine for a board game like this, but the materials, casting, and poses leave a bit to be desired. The designs are pretty good though, the soldiers look soldiery, and the alien mutants are creepy as all hell.
That being said, I went and painted the player characters, the Commandos. The models are soft plastic/resin something, and a lot of them are pretty heavily warped out of the box. I repeatedly tried to repose these guys with (boiling)hot and ice water, but even after a few attempts a couple of them are leaning a bit to one side (mainly the heavy and rifleman). I bulked out their equipment significantly using dreamforge stormtrooper gear, as these guys were really skinny and I felt lacking a lot of the bags, pouches, bandoliers, and other junk that one would carry into an underground mutant hunt. I also did weapon swaps on the Heavy and Counter Intelligence soldiers as the Heavy felt woefully undergunned with a stubby little SMG thing, and the CI guy's rifle was badly casted.
for reference sake, here's what the original models look like, along with some of the mutants.\
It is sort of a jumbled mess on the mini. Its got like a faceplate, then a gorget, then more faceplates...
He's turning his head in the direction of the gun, the little raised peice with the notch is the "nose", and there's lights on the side of his head.
Here's the game artwork, makes more sense.
I could probobly break it up a bit more with some dark grey, like on the rifleman and officer's masks.
I'm just gunna' keep posting stuff on this page. These are the guys that launched my whole beastman army, and now theyre finally finished after kicking around for a few years!
McGibs on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Those would make awesome Bestigor actually… make them seriously stand out from a regular beastman unit.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
One ten man squad of Valhallans. I can paint one ten man squad. Right?
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Can we get a new thread title?
[Painting Miniatures] Where McGibs Shames Us Into Not Posting Pictures of Our Mans
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
What a fucking disaster.
Magnetising my Hive Tyrant I managed to have one body magnet polarised wrong. Ended up cutting part of the torso out to get a file in and pry the magnet out and put a new one in the right way. Old magnet was basically destroyed by the file.
Then I saw I forgot to put the foot pincers on, and I've based it already. With plastic glue so it's permaglued to the base. So now I either cut the base off and find a resin base for it so I can reach the pincer connector points, or leave it and fill them in with green stuff.
Fuck.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
On the plus side, after 3 years, I put this together.
It was taking ages because attaching the tiny spikes was torture with my thick fingers. I thought fuck it, abandoned the smaller spikes and put it together. Now to build a support base and paint it.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I don't think I ever realized how many tiny holes these metal Guardsmen have in all the little nooks and crannies. Trying to get black paint in there so they don't show up is a horribly time-consuming process. But, at least I'm accomplishing something. I'm doing a little more than one squad. I chose one sergeant model, a heavy bolter crew and a meltagunner, and the running troopers of one type. This guy:
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Y'know, something always bugged me about the valhallan models and I just now figured out what it was; they aren't wearing gloves. They come from a frozen deathworld, dressed in 6" thick fur coats and all, but forgot to protect the one part of their body they need most to function as a soldier of the emperor (their trigger fingers)?
So, an update: Still working on getting the handouts scanned for you guys. The one scanner I found at work only does black and white scans. It was surprisingly lame, but most of this job is. So, i'm on the hunt to get color scans for you guys.
Also, here's me trying to apply some of what I learned. The face on this guy didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped, that's an area I need work on, but the blends on the blue and the trenchcoat turned out pretty good I think, at least, for my second go at it.
apologize if this a bad place to ask vs. say dakka dakka or coolminis. But I post here so figured why not: I want to get into painting miniatures and was wondering if anyone had advice on any minis in particular that are good for a beginner? I've heard Castle Ravenloft.
Are there any other board games that have good minis? Arkham Horror crossed my mind as a fun game but not sure about painting the minis. I'm figuring a board game would be a good place to start, since I would have more incentive to finish all of the pieces.
The best minis to paint are the ones you find most interesting and actually want to paint. Be it a board game. Scifi or fantasy army. Or even some of the boutique stuff out there.
Some will have easier or more difficult materials. Like hard plastic vs resin or metal to cheap shite soft plastic. Which is what id be wary of with a boardgame. But providing you do your research youll be fine. Just dont go in expecting anything to look spectacular off the bat or youll discourage yourself really quickly.
Post lots of pictures. Lots of extremely talented people post here and would love to see your progress and offer their help!
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acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
so wise and honoraboru painting thread. I tried out my airbrush for the first time yesterday, it was pretty real. I was able to prime the MoW Kovnik in like 20 seconds.
I'd like to know what's best for cleaning it?
when I was done painting I ran water through it until it was just water coming out, then I ran acetone through it, then I scrubbed the inside of the cup with a tissue soaked in acetone, then I ran water through it again.
Is Acetone the best cleaning agent for acrylic paint or is there something better for it? Should I disassemble the whole thing and wipe it down every time? Also, if I'm going to be switching colors in a session, how should I do the switch? run water through between colors, or should I put some acetone through instead?
Cheap and nasty window cleaner is one of the better options. It's a bit friendlier than Acetone. I usually run a cup full of it through after each colour. A handy hint is to leave it sitting with a cupful of Windex or equivalent when you're done as well, it prevents any paint left in the workings from drying. Every now and again it does need a good scrub down. I usually take mine apart and soak any stubborn bits in acetone. I also recommend getting a set of airbrush cleaners, like little pipecleaners and a pokey thing. They are super handy.
I use isopropyl alcohol. Milder than acetone, stronger than windex. Though my airbrush is of a "Silverline"... line. So it should theoretically withstand acetone- but isopropyl gets rid of 100% of the paint and is really cheap.
The cheekbone highlight-thing kinda gives him a Joker-esque smile appearance.
Were you planning on doing more with the cables?
Yep! They'll get taken up in a gentle dry-brush. You can't see'em that well in the photo 'cause of the lighting.
Thanks!
The face was an experiment as well. I was trying purples and reds and greens on flesh tones, for a better shading. It didn't quite work so well, but I did get some take aways from it, so it wasn't a total wash. I'll fix it tonight, or just blend it back into the flesh tone of his cheek/jaw. Not sure how i'll fix that just yet.
I actually put this question to MisterJustin - he owns and runs Secret Weapon miniatures, and knows his shit on airbrushing.
In short, it depends on how good of a care you want to take of your airbrush - but for the Grex brushes he uses, he runs water through his brush, then isoprobyl alcohol, then finishes it with water. It sounds odd, I know - but the alcohol can actually eat at the brass components in your airbrush, which ain't good. Don't leave any alcohol in the brush - always cleanse with water after alcohol. Ammonia based cleaners can also eat away at your brass in the brush as well, so he advised against it. Also, always clean your needle as soon as you're done painting. Just be careful - it doesn't take much to destroy an .02 or .05 needle. All you have to do is gently run it through a wet paper towel a few times, and it should clean well.
He also uses brushes from Harbor Freight. They're literally like, 20 dollar single action airbrushes. If he's spraying crackle medium, or something very unhealthy for a brush, he just uses and throws it away after.
3lwap0 on
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acidlacedpenguinInstitutionalizedSafe in jail.Registered Userregular
awesome, thanks for the advice guys!
GT: Acidboogie PSNid: AcidLacedPenguiN
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Dear painting thread,
I realized how long it's been since I posted real pictures of anything. Like, the beginning of January or something silly ... You treat me better than this, so I'll make sure to treat you better too. You'll just have to bear with me for a couple more days while I finish up Lady Aiyana and Master Holt. Perhaps with this nice long weekend I can take a moment to post pictures of my battle mages, arcanist, Kaelyssa, A&H, and the stormfalls I never properly photographed.
Yup, I think that's something I need to do.
Painting my way through a mass of tactical marines means he paints the tac marine my friend or he gets the hose again. (Seriously I've had to get my wife involved and unless I present a painted tactical marine I am not allowed to box her boobies). that being said I also based and finished up a couple of bones minis that are in my oppressive pile of white plastic.
Posts
To me it's blatant inside favouritism. I would like scans of those handouts though, might be some useful tips in there.
In other news I attempted airbrush practise, first time I've ever used one. Bought a cheap one years ago but never used it, there was NO online resources that seemed half decent. Now with the power of the INTERNET I was able to find the proper mediums, mixes, and paints within one evening of thinking "hey maybe I'll give this thing a try again."
Blending and guaging where your spray is going to hit is hard :c
And now they are in acetone until tonight where I'll clean/prime and give it another try tomorrow.
My good friend and his brother tag-teamed this amazing army. One converted all the models, the other did all of the painting. They took it to Adepticon, and it took overall army and won the tournament for Warhammer Fantasy. I worked side by side with my friend while he painted this, and it was a real joy to see it come together.
Also, excuse the bad lighting - all I had were a couple of lamps and my phone.
Behold! It's Christmas time for Nurgle! (and a few pink horrors)
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It's an amazingly painted tank that's carrying a team of expertly painted shop manaquins
The game comes with tonnes of minis, which despite Privateer Press's usual quality, aren't the greatest to work with. They're fine for a board game like this, but the materials, casting, and poses leave a bit to be desired. The designs are pretty good though, the soldiers look soldiery, and the alien mutants are creepy as all hell.
That being said, I went and painted the player characters, the Commandos. The models are soft plastic/resin something, and a lot of them are pretty heavily warped out of the box. I repeatedly tried to repose these guys with (boiling)hot and ice water, but even after a few attempts a couple of them are leaning a bit to one side (mainly the heavy and rifleman). I bulked out their equipment significantly using dreamforge stormtrooper gear, as these guys were really skinny and I felt lacking a lot of the bags, pouches, bandoliers, and other junk that one would carry into an underground mutant hunt. I also did weapon swaps on the Heavy and Counter Intelligence soldiers as the Heavy felt woefully undergunned with a stubby little SMG thing, and the CI guy's rifle was badly casted.
for reference sake, here's what the original models look like, along with some of the mutants.\
I heard you like heavy armor faceplates, so I . . .
He's turning his head in the direction of the gun, the little raised peice with the notch is the "nose", and there's lights on the side of his head.
Here's the game artwork, makes more sense.
I could probobly break it up a bit more with some dark grey, like on the rifleman and officer's masks.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
The blood on the cloaks, especially.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
[Painting Miniatures] Where McGibs Shames Us Into Not Posting Pictures of Our Mans
Magnetising my Hive Tyrant I managed to have one body magnet polarised wrong. Ended up cutting part of the torso out to get a file in and pry the magnet out and put a new one in the right way. Old magnet was basically destroyed by the file.
Then I saw I forgot to put the foot pincers on, and I've based it already. With plastic glue so it's permaglued to the base. So now I either cut the base off and find a resin base for it so I can reach the pincer connector points, or leave it and fill them in with green stuff.
Fuck.
It was taking ages because attaching the tiny spikes was torture with my thick fingers. I thought fuck it, abandoned the smaller spikes and put it together. Now to build a support base and paint it.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Also, here's me trying to apply some of what I learned. The face on this guy didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped, that's an area I need work on, but the blends on the blue and the trenchcoat turned out pretty good I think, at least, for my second go at it.
The cheekbone highlight-thing kinda gives him a Joker-esque smile appearance.
Were you planning on doing more with the cables?
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Are there any other board games that have good minis? Arkham Horror crossed my mind as a fun game but not sure about painting the minis. I'm figuring a board game would be a good place to start, since I would have more incentive to finish all of the pieces.
Some will have easier or more difficult materials. Like hard plastic vs resin or metal to cheap shite soft plastic. Which is what id be wary of with a boardgame. But providing you do your research youll be fine. Just dont go in expecting anything to look spectacular off the bat or youll discourage yourself really quickly.
Post lots of pictures. Lots of extremely talented people post here and would love to see your progress and offer their help!
I'd like to know what's best for cleaning it?
when I was done painting I ran water through it until it was just water coming out, then I ran acetone through it, then I scrubbed the inside of the cup with a tissue soaked in acetone, then I ran water through it again.
Is Acetone the best cleaning agent for acrylic paint or is there something better for it? Should I disassemble the whole thing and wipe it down every time? Also, if I'm going to be switching colors in a session, how should I do the switch? run water through between colors, or should I put some acetone through instead?
Yep! They'll get taken up in a gentle dry-brush. You can't see'em that well in the photo 'cause of the lighting.
Thanks!
The face was an experiment as well. I was trying purples and reds and greens on flesh tones, for a better shading. It didn't quite work so well, but I did get some take aways from it, so it wasn't a total wash. I'll fix it tonight, or just blend it back into the flesh tone of his cheek/jaw. Not sure how i'll fix that just yet.
I actually put this question to MisterJustin - he owns and runs Secret Weapon miniatures, and knows his shit on airbrushing.
In short, it depends on how good of a care you want to take of your airbrush - but for the Grex brushes he uses, he runs water through his brush, then isoprobyl alcohol, then finishes it with water. It sounds odd, I know - but the alcohol can actually eat at the brass components in your airbrush, which ain't good. Don't leave any alcohol in the brush - always cleanse with water after alcohol. Ammonia based cleaners can also eat away at your brass in the brush as well, so he advised against it. Also, always clean your needle as soon as you're done painting. Just be careful - it doesn't take much to destroy an .02 or .05 needle. All you have to do is gently run it through a wet paper towel a few times, and it should clean well.
He also uses brushes from Harbor Freight. They're literally like, 20 dollar single action airbrushes. If he's spraying crackle medium, or something very unhealthy for a brush, he just uses and throws it away after.
I realized how long it's been since I posted real pictures of anything. Like, the beginning of January or something silly ... You treat me better than this, so I'll make sure to treat you better too. You'll just have to bear with me for a couple more days while I finish up Lady Aiyana and Master Holt. Perhaps with this nice long weekend I can take a moment to post pictures of my battle mages, arcanist, Kaelyssa, A&H, and the stormfalls I never properly photographed.
Yup, I think that's something I need to do.
Sincerely,
Arctic
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
http://www.waronthetable.com