that's not that much off depending on the exchange rate.. 18KUSD
i wonder how long the motors can run before they have to be rebuilt
Well the old Kent 1600cc units only make about 110 horsepower in race tune on race fuel. They're not particularly heavily stressed. When my partner and I went to a racing school here and drove them on track for a day the ex-F1 engineer running the company was saying that you can squeeze out a whole season if you're not chasing every last thousandth of a second. Apparently even the very front running cars in the best-funded teams only rebuild like twice per season, because there's not a great deal of difference to be made to the engine by constantly putting new rings in it and re-lapping the valves.
Girlfriend has a 2002 kia sportage and the master brake cylinder is leaking where it attaches to the brake booster. Pretty sure that means when I do this repair I'm gonna have to look for damage in the diaphragm to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well. What am I looking for to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well good sir?
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Girlfriend has a 2002 kia sportage and the master brake cylinder is leaking where it attaches to the brake booster. Pretty sure that means when I do this repair I'm gonna have to look for damage in the diaphragm to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well. What am I looking for to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well good sir?
If brake fluid has gotten into the booster, that will need replacing too because the diaphragm in there is just rubber. To be honest, the car is 13 years old and I would recommend replacing the booster if you're taking the master cylinder off anyway, because Murphy's Law states that just as soon as you got the reconditioned master cylinder fitted up and the brake system nicely bled, the booster would start leaking.
Girlfriend has a 2002 kia sportage and the master brake cylinder is leaking where it attaches to the brake booster. Pretty sure that means when I do this repair I'm gonna have to look for damage in the diaphragm to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well. What am I looking for to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well good sir?
If brake fluid has gotten into the booster, that will need replacing too because the diaphragm in there is just rubber. To be honest, the car is 13 years old and I would recommend replacing the booster if you're taking the master cylinder off anyway, because Murphy's Law states that just as soon as you got the reconditioned master cylinder fitted up and the brake system nicely bled, the booster would start leaking.
Yeah I had a look at my air filter today. I guess you do have to clean them every now and then.
Also oil was low. Topped up now. Took a full litre.
Basically the car needs some TLC. Have it going in for an oil change and full mechanical next week. Debating on whether I should also get a compression and leak-down test.
I never finish anyth
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Unless you have an aftermarket washable and re-useable oiled foam filter element like a K&N, you can't really clean them as such, just take them out, flip them over, and gently tap them against a hard surface to dislodge and shake out much of the bigger chunks of crap and dirt. The really fine dust particles that the air filter element is designed to catch won't come out, the fibrous matrix of the element paper is specifically designed to trap them as securely as possible, so once they're in there, that's it. You can clean off most of the dirt you can see, but it's the stuff you can't see that clogs the filter up and restricts the airflow. So you can't actually extend their life in any real meaningful way, you may as well just spend the $15 and get a brand new replacement when you buy the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter.
I have exactly that; an aftermarket washable and re-useable oiled foam filter element from K&N.
I kinda want to post a picture, cause it's impressive how dirty the thing is. But I also feel kinda embarrassed for letting it get that bad. Oh well. Even EJ20 engines are relatively durable.
Yeah I have an aftermarket K&N also, bought exclusively for its reusable properties. If it does allow more horsepower to be made, I certainly can't feel it. But then, adding 5 horses to 300 horses is not, how you say, noticeable.
So does Toyota! The *JZ 6 cylinder and the *UZ 8 cylinder engines were co-developed with Yamaha. They know how to build brilliant engines, just look at what the R1 motorcycle did to the sports bike market when it was introduced, and also the 4-stroke YZF400, that changed the dirtbike world for ever.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Shit, I think the 4 cylinder motor from the old AWD group A Celicas of the 90s even has Yamaha moulded into the cam belt cover...
Correct. Given the local Australian custom of putting Chev badges on V8 powered Commodores, I've been really tempted to put a Yamaha badge on the front of my Celica GT-4 (what you guys call an Alltrac?) just to mess with people.
I don't think anyone would ever actually get the joke without being told it first though.
Switch Friend Code: SW-3944-9431-0318
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
+3
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Correct. Given the local Australian custom of putting Chev badges on V8 powered Commodores, I've been really tempted to put a Yamaha badge on the front of my Celica GT-4 (what you guys call an Alltrac?) just to mess with people.
I don't think anyone would ever actually get the joke without being told it first though.
It's kind of sad that between the two big Australian built family cars, the best parts of them are the engines they get from other countries. First there was the Nissan RB motor in the VL Commodore, then the Buick V6 also in the Commodore as the best 6 cylinder motor available up until Ford put twin cams on the 4.0 homegrown motor. And both Aussie V8s got shitcanned for American motors that were instantly a significant improvement in every possible way from the old units.
Does anyone have suggestions for the best stuff to clean a car with? For my daily drivers I've been using automatic touchless car washes because I've got more money than effort level but I'm not subjecting the Fig's roof to one of those. I'm participating in a car show next Friday so it should look pretty and ever since they chipped and tarred the road in front of my place it's mostly just looked dusty.
I'm in Canada, so I may not be able to get everything.
I use Armor All's wash and wax product. Good rinse, clean with a wash mitt and bucket, rinse off. It puts enough of a wax-like finish on there to make me somewhat believe it's kind of sort of like doing a proper wax.
I really like Chemical Guys products and have been very happy with everything I've bought from them. Their waxes are fairly expensive so I'm going to buy Collinite 845 instead.
How serious are you looking to get with washing your own car? The simplest method would be a two bucket and grit guards, some kind of sheepskin or microfiber mit, microfiber towels for drying, and applying a spray on wax while drying the car. I use a foaming spray bottle which I spray into the mitt, but still use two buckets for rinsing and re-soaping.
If you're going to be judged you might want to consider washing, clay bar, and then waxing. If the paint feels rough or gritty when you touch it a clay bar and appropriate lubricant (specialized or any spray on wax work great) will remove the embedded dirt, dust, and grime in the paint making it feel very smooth. You'll have to wax your car afterwards to protect the paint and add a lasting shine. I've been meaning to do this myself but between rainy weekends and hot weather I haven't had the chance.
There are a lot of good videos but this is where I started. His products are way too expensive for me but his recommendations for tools and types of chemicals are a great place to start. His follow up videos on how to use a clay bar and how to wax are good too, but he is extremely anal about how he does things. The Chemical Guys videos are also good but they are half instructional and half sales pitch.
Yeah, sorry, I should have clarified that the kind of car show I'm going to do is they're closing down main street for an evening and a whole bunch of people are going to park their cars on it for people to look at. That doesn't mean people won't be super judgmental though.
I'm going to amp up the pickiness about cleanliness once I have it resprayed (the passenger door and hood at the very least).
Tesla's dropping some info right now on the new Model S P90D and the Model X. They're both getting a new "Ludicrous Mode" that allows 0-60mph in 2.8s for the Model S and 3.3s for the Model X. The quarter mile time for the Model S drops to 10.9s, the sprint to 155mph is "reduced 20%." Anyone that wants to upgrade their existing Model S P85D to the new P90D model can do so for $10,000.
There's a new generation of the Tesla Roadster coming in 4 years that will be even quicker.
jgeis on
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Chemical guys is really good for the home detailing project, or just a person who wants an excellent cleaning product for their car. My brother is a professional detailer, and started with Chemical guys, he has since moved on, but he highly recommends them as a good price/performance product that you don't have to suit up for.
My car has this weird thing where maybe it feels a little sluggish accelerating past say 25mph? I dunno if it's a gear thing or a symptom of me being scared of the gas pedal (I'm still real new to this driving thing) given that it only happens some of the time, typically after making a turn.
I have a service appointment on the 30th so like I know I'm going to get it looked at then and it's under a 10 year however many mile warranty but In dunno if I should call them about it ahead of time.
Posts
Well the old Kent 1600cc units only make about 110 horsepower in race tune on race fuel. They're not particularly heavily stressed. When my partner and I went to a racing school here and drove them on track for a day the ex-F1 engineer running the company was saying that you can squeeze out a whole season if you're not chasing every last thousandth of a second. Apparently even the very front running cars in the best-funded teams only rebuild like twice per season, because there's not a great deal of difference to be made to the engine by constantly putting new rings in it and re-lapping the valves.
Girlfriend has a 2002 kia sportage and the master brake cylinder is leaking where it attaches to the brake booster. Pretty sure that means when I do this repair I'm gonna have to look for damage in the diaphragm to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well. What am I looking for to see if the booster needs to be replaced as well good sir?
If brake fluid has gotten into the booster, that will need replacing too because the diaphragm in there is just rubber. To be honest, the car is 13 years old and I would recommend replacing the booster if you're taking the master cylinder off anyway, because Murphy's Law states that just as soon as you got the reconditioned master cylinder fitted up and the brake system nicely bled, the booster would start leaking.
Fair point, ill add it to the list
Also oil was low. Topped up now. Took a full litre.
Basically the car needs some TLC. Have it going in for an oil change and full mechanical next week. Debating on whether I should also get a compression and leak-down test.
I never finish anyth
I kinda want to post a picture, cause it's impressive how dirty the thing is. But I also feel kinda embarrassed for letting it get that bad. Oh well. Even EJ20 engines are relatively durable.
I never finish anyth
Well that and a decal for my local Subaru club/forum. Oh and a rally pig. Also don't forget the Subaru subreddit...
I never finish anyth
There's only one of them being made, and it's being auctioned off for the Experimental Aircraft Association's children's programs.
I mean, just look at this thing:
I never finish anyth
I never finish anyth
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_B8444S_engine
I never finish anyth
Ford has a history of designing engines with/buying them from Yamaha.
So does Toyota! The *JZ 6 cylinder and the *UZ 8 cylinder engines were co-developed with Yamaha. They know how to build brilliant engines, just look at what the R1 motorcycle did to the sports bike market when it was introduced, and also the 4-stroke YZF400, that changed the dirtbike world for ever.
I don't think anyone would ever actually get the joke without being told it first though.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
It's kind of sad that between the two big Australian built family cars, the best parts of them are the engines they get from other countries. First there was the Nissan RB motor in the VL Commodore, then the Buick V6 also in the Commodore as the best 6 cylinder motor available up until Ford put twin cams on the 4.0 homegrown motor. And both Aussie V8s got shitcanned for American motors that were instantly a significant improvement in every possible way from the old units.
I never finish anyth
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Watch the first few minutes of this
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
I'm in Canada, so I may not be able to get everything.
I'm pretty lazy though.
How serious are you looking to get with washing your own car? The simplest method would be a two bucket and grit guards, some kind of sheepskin or microfiber mit, microfiber towels for drying, and applying a spray on wax while drying the car. I use a foaming spray bottle which I spray into the mitt, but still use two buckets for rinsing and re-soaping.
If you're going to be judged you might want to consider washing, clay bar, and then waxing. If the paint feels rough or gritty when you touch it a clay bar and appropriate lubricant (specialized or any spray on wax work great) will remove the embedded dirt, dust, and grime in the paint making it feel very smooth. You'll have to wax your car afterwards to protect the paint and add a lasting shine. I've been meaning to do this myself but between rainy weekends and hot weather I haven't had the chance.
There are a lot of good videos but this is where I started. His products are way too expensive for me but his recommendations for tools and types of chemicals are a great place to start. His follow up videos on how to use a clay bar and how to wax are good too, but he is extremely anal about how he does things. The Chemical Guys videos are also good but they are half instructional and half sales pitch.
I'm going to amp up the pickiness about cleanliness once I have it resprayed (the passenger door and hood at the very least).
There's a new generation of the Tesla Roadster coming in 4 years that will be even quicker.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
And while you're at it, make sure to check the spare! Apparently these things can lose some air after sitting in your trunk for thirteen years:
My car has this weird thing where maybe it feels a little sluggish accelerating past say 25mph? I dunno if it's a gear thing or a symptom of me being scared of the gas pedal (I'm still real new to this driving thing) given that it only happens some of the time, typically after making a turn.
I have a service appointment on the 30th so like I know I'm going to get it looked at then and it's under a 10 year however many mile warranty but In dunno if I should call them about it ahead of time.