Randy quickly worked out that the cost of a traditional bus advertisement for a year was the same as buying one of these funky, Japan-only, toon-town cars.
I'm using that logic to explain why I've stopped advertising the office in the yellow pages! (also because the yellow pages are over-expensive and I'm not sure anyone uses the things anymore).
Yeah JDM cars are decently cheap to import as long as they don't contain acronyms like R34 and STi. Not surprising that he has that many Figaros.
I never finish anyth
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
Has anyone in this thread ever owned a Jeep Wrangler?
The 97 VW Golf I bought for $450 has finally reached the mechanical problem levels of "I don't care anymore". I'm debating fixing the existing problems to get it privately sellable (replacing the oil pump or fixing some other unknown oil leak/loss of pressure, buffing the paint, replacing the central locking pump again) or just trading it in.
The wife and I are pretty set on getting an early 2000's 2 door Wrangler for a couple reasons. In the summer it's a gorgeous part of the world to road trip with the top off, we have access to a family cabin up in the mountains which would be MUCH more pleasant to get to with a 4WD and decent clearance, and I'm interested in the Wrangler's potential for customization and maintaining myself. Thinking of getting a 2000-2004 Auto (so the wife can drive it) at under $10,000.
they do have the 4.0 straight 6, yes. Apparently you need to look for the 5 speed auto, not the 3 speed.
I have zero interest in a lift kit so you're right about that.
The 4.0 straight six is heavily undertuned, so while it will struggle to keep up with traffic and burn a lot of petrol, it will also last for just about eternity as long as you keep the cooling system in good shape.
Now, an early 2000s Wrangler is a very agricultural vehicle, with basically zero effort put into refinement during the development cycle. Most people that bought a Wrangler back then didn't give a fuck because they wanted to go offroad, which even stock Wranglers do pretty bloody well. If you don't give a fuck about some noise, vibration and harshness, then an example in fairly good condition should be pretty cheap and low maintenance. I would strongly advise against the three speed auto, because they are a garbage gearbox and besides three speed autos went out in the late 80's, seriously, what the hell? There is no 5 speed auto though, only a four speed. There is a 5 speed and a six speed manual, if you can find a 6 speed it will be slightly better on fuel, but that's only on 2005-2006 models of the TJ.
Look for rust and corrosion not just under the car and in the panelwork, but in the wiring and interior. You don't want to buy a vehicle that's gone for a swim in a river somewhere and it turns out that if you peel away the underbody coating there is nothing but flakes of rust there. Thankfully the TJ went to coil springs so it rides reasonably well and handles a little better than the older YJ (rectangular headlights)
From 2001 there was the option for the engine to have distributorless coil-on-plug ignition, and while it does not make any real difference to engine outputs or emissions, it is a much more modern and reliable ignition system and means there is no fucking about with a distributor required at servicing. You just change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles and you're golden.
+1
#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
It seems to be in pretty good shape, but I'd still get a local expert on Jeeps to crawl all over it. It's a 2001, so it could have the dodgy cylinder head (unlikely after 200,000 kms, but stranger things have happened), so yeah a knowledgeable dude or lady giving it a once-over with a fine tooth comb would definitely be worth the couple of hundred bucks that might cost.
There's a little bit of visible wear and tear on it, like cracks in the seat vinyl and some scratching on the door trims, but for a 14 year old vehicle it's clearly been fairly well taken care of (Armorall can only hide so much). As long as it's mechanically okay and free of faults, you should get another 150,000-200,000 kms out of it with proper upkeep. No pictures of the engine bay, though.
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Magus`The fun has been DOUBLED!Registered Userregular
What do you guys consider the best items for cleaning the inside of a car? I'm using Invisible Glass(tm) for my windows, but not sure what would be good for the dash and what I could use to freshen up the upholstery (I vacuum it, but I'd like it to smell.. pleasant?).
Sold the WRX last night....took a total of 3 hours from the time I posted it on craigslist to when I had a cash deposit in hand.
I think it and I will have a drink tonight before the dude comes to pick it up on Saturday.
....meaning that it'll get some nice gas and I'll have bourbon. Likely not at the same time.
"zip, i dunno what it is about you, but there's something very cat-like about your face. i can't really place it. you'd make a good mountain lion." Hail, Satan!Satans Post
I'm also looking for suggestions on upholstery cleaning supplies/techniques. My car's interior needs a really good cleaning, there have been a couple of little accidents that have left spots and debris.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
What do you guys consider the best items for cleaning the inside of a car? I'm using Invisible Glass(tm) for my windows, but not sure what would be good for the dash and what I could use to freshen up the upholstery (I vacuum it, but I'd like it to smell.. pleasant?).
I cannot recommend Autoglym strongly enough. Here in Australia their products cost about triple the usual Meguiars or whatever, but they fucking work...
If vacuuming your interior all over, shampooing the upholstery and roof liner, and washing all the plastics then applying a protectant afterwards doesn't get you interior clean enough, you need to call a detailer.
My best tip for windows is DON'T USE WINDEX, overspray eats at your paint. Use an automotive window cleaning product that specifically points out on its label that it is paint and trim safe, like this.
Oh man I didn't know Windex was bad for the paint, but that makes sense. I wonder if that is what killed the paint on my old Pontiac. The paint was fraying around the edges of my driver side window
It seems to be in pretty good shape, but I'd still get a local expert on Jeeps to crawl all over it. It's a 2001, so it could have the dodgy cylinder head (unlikely after 200,000 kms, but stranger things have happened), so yeah a knowledgeable dude or lady giving it a once-over with a fine tooth comb would definitely be worth the couple of hundred bucks that might cost.
There's a little bit of visible wear and tear on it, like cracks in the seat vinyl and some scratching on the door trims, but for a 14 year old vehicle it's clearly been fairly well taken care of (Armorall can only hide so much). As long as it's mechanically okay and free of faults, you should get another 150,000-200,000 kms out of it with proper upkeep. No pictures of the engine bay, though.
A jeep expert will be invaluable.
Also be prepared for the engine bay to not be immaculate. Those 4.0L motors are dirty things, at least my older ones are. Also they will most likely have a bit of valve tap to them. It isn't necessarily a problem, because it is due to the low tolerances, but that is another area where a jeep expert will come in handy.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I find it hilarious that Jeep eventually just gave in trying to get the valve cover on those motors to seal properly and redesigned it with like 15 bolts to hold the bloody thing down flat and secure.
For reference, a Chevy 350 V8 rocker cover has 4 bolts. Granted, it's not quite as long as the one on the Jeep 4.0 six cylinder, but then there are plenty of other six cylinder cars (like the 4.0 that Ford Australia have been using for the last 40 years or so) that manage to be leak-free with like 8 bolts. Jeep tried, but in the end they were like "ahhhh fuck it just go HAM on this shit".
I don't know a thing about fixing up cars, but I'm guessing that camber would like, rotate alone with the wheels, making for the bumpiest ride ever?
Actual camber is done with the suspension geometry so that the angle remains constant with the rotation of the wheel. Generally on a race car, if you look head on, the top of the wheel is a little inboard from the bottom. It aids with cornering. Not done so much on road cars because it wears the tyres out unevenly.
This morning I noticed an odd noise at very low/idle speed coming from one of the wheels. After some experimenting in the company parking lot I think one of my discs has a slight amount of drag. Enough to be slightly audible at <5 mph but lost at higher speeds. Some googling indicates checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, but anything else I should take a peek at?
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
This morning I noticed an odd noise at very low/idle speed coming from one of the wheels. After some experimenting in the company parking lot I think one of my discs has a slight amount of drag. Enough to be slightly audible at <5 mph but lost at higher speeds. Some googling indicates checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, but anything else I should take a peek at?
It could be a bit of grit or much between the pads and the rotor. That stuff usually either works its own way out, or gets worn down to nothing fairly quickly.
Also I kind of want the 1974 Lola T294 that someone on our corporate want ads is selling for $220k. I never imagined something like that would grace our little corporate want ads. The same guy is also selling a Lola B07/90 for $85k, with a 250hp Ford Duratec engine. I need to find this guy and befriend him.
I had a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 5 speed automatic inline 6 cylinder and it was great for off roading and it ran fine until I lent it to my brother who spun it on the ice and pushed in the front end a bit.. I then "sold" it to my niece as her first car and she was driving it until a few months ago. It still ran but not as well as it should have if she had kept up the maintenance. It was a fun to go off road in, but at best I was getting 16mpg.
The font end is a very sculpted but the whole car has a very flowing, rounded design. As much as I might like something more angular it wouldn't fit well with the design of the rest of the car. That said, I think it's very very pretty and now want one desperately.
You mean the Giulia? It's supposed to be an M3 fighter so expected to be somewhere in that range.
The 4C MSRP'd at what, $60k? I would imagine the Giulia Quadrifoglio will be somewhere around $65k, maybe $70k. The M3 starts at $62k, so they won't want to be too far off that mark.
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
I had a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 5 speed automatic inline 6 cylinder and it was great for off roading and it ran fine until I lent it to my brother who spun it on the ice and pushed in the front end a bit.. I then "sold" it to my niece as her first car and she was driving it until a few months ago. It still ran but not as well as it should have if she had kept up the maintenance. It was a fun to go off road in, but at best I was getting 16mpg.
Did you have any mechanical problems apart from the accident? I'm not terribly concerned about MPG at this point because we really don't drive much day to day.
The hell did I miss this thread, lol? Anyway, I'm just three months out from the planned new car. Emphasis on plan, though. I was going for a 16 model year, but then Ford put those stupid ass turn signals in the hood and I'm thinking I may get an end of year 15. Eh, we'll see.
I had a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 5 speed automatic inline 6 cylinder and it was great for off roading and it ran fine until I lent it to my brother who spun it on the ice and pushed in the front end a bit.. I then "sold" it to my niece as her first car and she was driving it until a few months ago. It still ran but not as well as it should have if she had kept up the maintenance. It was a fun to go off road in, but at best I was getting 16mpg.
Did you have any mechanical problems apart from the accident? I'm not terribly concerned about MPG at this point because we really don't drive much day to day.
The only thing that was probably not from the accident was when I had to rescue my niece and have it towed.
If I recall correctly, it was the cam position sensor/timing chain, luckily that happened five blocks from home.
The hell did I miss this thread, lol? Anyway, I'm just three months out from the planned new car. Emphasis on plan, though. I was going for a 16 model year, but then Ford put those stupid ass turn signals in the hood and I'm thinking I may get an end of year 15. Eh, we'll see.
Lol, I know! I've been seriously thinking about it, but then I'm waiting basically another year. And I think my current is getting ready for a rather large bill. I'm having a few little problems that are going to get bigger if I decide to keep it. Things like an air conditioner clacking behind the dash and the turn signal switch crapping out. Still have to get the airbag done from the recall... Gah, I need a vacation just to get the time to get all this stuff fixed. =(
Posts
I'm using that logic to explain why I've stopped advertising the office in the yellow pages! (also because the yellow pages are over-expensive and I'm not sure anyone uses the things anymore).
I never finish anyth
The 97 VW Golf I bought for $450 has finally reached the mechanical problem levels of "I don't care anymore". I'm debating fixing the existing problems to get it privately sellable (replacing the oil pump or fixing some other unknown oil leak/loss of pressure, buffing the paint, replacing the central locking pump again) or just trading it in.
The wife and I are pretty set on getting an early 2000's 2 door Wrangler for a couple reasons. In the summer it's a gorgeous part of the world to road trip with the top off, we have access to a family cabin up in the mountains which would be MUCH more pleasant to get to with a 4WD and decent clearance, and I'm interested in the Wrangler's potential for customization and maintaining myself. Thinking of getting a 2000-2004 Auto (so the wife can drive it) at under $10,000.
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
Not sure what foibles an early 2000's wrangler has but im sure someone does.
Id try to find an unmodified one though. Theres a lot of shortcuts people take, especially on lift kits. You don't want that headache.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I have zero interest in a lift kit so you're right about that.
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
The 4.0 straight six is heavily undertuned, so while it will struggle to keep up with traffic and burn a lot of petrol, it will also last for just about eternity as long as you keep the cooling system in good shape.
Now, an early 2000s Wrangler is a very agricultural vehicle, with basically zero effort put into refinement during the development cycle. Most people that bought a Wrangler back then didn't give a fuck because they wanted to go offroad, which even stock Wranglers do pretty bloody well. If you don't give a fuck about some noise, vibration and harshness, then an example in fairly good condition should be pretty cheap and low maintenance. I would strongly advise against the three speed auto, because they are a garbage gearbox and besides three speed autos went out in the late 80's, seriously, what the hell? There is no 5 speed auto though, only a four speed. There is a 5 speed and a six speed manual, if you can find a 6 speed it will be slightly better on fuel, but that's only on 2005-2006 models of the TJ.
Look for rust and corrosion not just under the car and in the panelwork, but in the wiring and interior. You don't want to buy a vehicle that's gone for a swim in a river somewhere and it turns out that if you peel away the underbody coating there is nothing but flakes of rust there. Thankfully the TJ went to coil springs so it rides reasonably well and handles a little better than the older YJ (rectangular headlights)
From 2001 there was the option for the engine to have distributorless coil-on-plug ignition, and while it does not make any real difference to engine outputs or emissions, it is a much more modern and reliable ignition system and means there is no fucking about with a distributor required at servicing. You just change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles and you're golden.
what do you think about this one
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
It seems to be in pretty good shape, but I'd still get a local expert on Jeeps to crawl all over it. It's a 2001, so it could have the dodgy cylinder head (unlikely after 200,000 kms, but stranger things have happened), so yeah a knowledgeable dude or lady giving it a once-over with a fine tooth comb would definitely be worth the couple of hundred bucks that might cost.
There's a little bit of visible wear and tear on it, like cracks in the seat vinyl and some scratching on the door trims, but for a 14 year old vehicle it's clearly been fairly well taken care of (Armorall can only hide so much). As long as it's mechanically okay and free of faults, you should get another 150,000-200,000 kms out of it with proper upkeep. No pictures of the engine bay, though.
Steam Profile | Signature art by Alexandra 'Lexxy' Douglass
I think it and I will have a drink tonight before the dude comes to pick it up on Saturday.
....meaning that it'll get some nice gas and I'll have bourbon. Likely not at the same time.
I cannot recommend Autoglym strongly enough. Here in Australia their products cost about triple the usual Meguiars or whatever, but they fucking work...
If vacuuming your interior all over, shampooing the upholstery and roof liner, and washing all the plastics then applying a protectant afterwards doesn't get you interior clean enough, you need to call a detailer.
My best tip for windows is DON'T USE WINDEX, overspray eats at your paint. Use an automotive window cleaning product that specifically points out on its label that it is paint and trim safe, like this.
"YES. YES. YES."
A jeep expert will be invaluable.
Also be prepared for the engine bay to not be immaculate. Those 4.0L motors are dirty things, at least my older ones are. Also they will most likely have a bit of valve tap to them. It isn't necessarily a problem, because it is due to the low tolerances, but that is another area where a jeep expert will come in handy.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
For reference, a Chevy 350 V8 rocker cover has 4 bolts. Granted, it's not quite as long as the one on the Jeep 4.0 six cylinder, but then there are plenty of other six cylinder cars (like the 4.0 that Ford Australia have been using for the last 40 years or so) that manage to be leak-free with like 8 bolts. Jeep tried, but in the end they were like "ahhhh fuck it just go HAM on this shit".
There you go.
Actual camber is done with the suspension geometry so that the angle remains constant with the rotation of the wheel. Generally on a race car, if you look head on, the top of the wheel is a little inboard from the bottom. It aids with cornering. Not done so much on road cars because it wears the tyres out unevenly.
It could be a bit of grit or much between the pads and the rotor. That stuff usually either works its own way out, or gets worn down to nothing fairly quickly.
Man, I want that car.
Also I kind of want the 1974 Lola T294 that someone on our corporate want ads is selling for $220k. I never imagined something like that would grace our little corporate want ads. The same guy is also selling a Lola B07/90 for $85k, with a 250hp Ford Duratec engine. I need to find this guy and befriend him.
I had a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 5 speed automatic inline 6 cylinder and it was great for off roading and it ran fine until I lent it to my brother who spun it on the ice and pushed in the front end a bit.. I then "sold" it to my niece as her first car and she was driving it until a few months ago. It still ran but not as well as it should have if she had kept up the maintenance. It was a fun to go off road in, but at best I was getting 16mpg.
what is wrong with you
also... that car has to be 150k right?
You mean the Giulia? It's supposed to be an M3 fighter so expected to be somewhere in that range.
The 4C MSRP'd at what, $60k? I would imagine the Giulia Quadrifoglio will be somewhere around $65k, maybe $70k. The M3 starts at $62k, so they won't want to be too far off that mark.
Did you have any mechanical problems apart from the accident? I'm not terribly concerned about MPG at this point because we really don't drive much day to day.
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
The only thing that was probably not from the accident was when I had to rescue my niece and have it towed.
If I recall correctly, it was the cam position sensor/timing chain, luckily that happened five blocks from home.
Just wait a bit and get a Focus RS.