Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited April 2017
Okay, so, I have some small progress on the silver sword I was working on, but forgot to take pictures since the last time. It's going to be a while until I have studio time again, which leads me to the project I do have pictures for. If you're at all familiar with the McElroy's D&D podcast "The Adventure Zone", well, this is from that. There's an organization in the game called the Bureau of Balance, the silver piece is their insignia, and this will eventually be my take on their Stones of Farspeech.
Pictures in the spoiler go from earliest point (freshly cut, very rough), to filed down, to mostly finished and ready for the next step. That step being to shape the piece until it basically cups the curve of the stone I've chosen followed by crafting a silver band that will fit around the edge of it. Then comes soldering the two together, but that will require access to the studio. As far as finishing from there, I have ideas, but I want to see how it goes before I plan too far.
Also pictured: the teardrop cut labradorite I found at a local rock shop. I love that place.
Caulk Bite 6 on
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EncA Fool with CompassionPronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered Userregular
I've been working on a map that I want to send to print as a 24x36 poster. It's a 3d render Im converting to a JPG for a D&D game I run. Every few years I print out one map and send it to the current players, and this is likely going to be the one for this year.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
I've been working on a map that I want to send to print as a 24x36 poster. It's a 3d render Im converting to a JPG for a D&D game I run. Every few years I print out one map and send it to the current players, and this is likely going to be the one for this year.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
I've been working on a map that I want to send to print as a 24x36 poster. It's a 3d render Im converting to a JPG for a D&D game I run. Every few years I print out one map and send it to the current players, and this is likely going to be the one for this year.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
A scale and/or a compass rose maybe?
Yeah, a compass would be cool.
We have a running joke about measurements in this world being mysterious as trip times between places vary as the plot demands. Its all part of this place (and this will likely be the map printed after this one once I get around to working on better map markers than dots):
Still not happy with the miles marker on this one, and may cut it as well.
I've been working on a map that I want to send to print as a 24x36 poster. It's a 3d render Im converting to a JPG for a D&D game I run. Every few years I print out one map and send it to the current players, and this is likely going to be the one for this year.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
I feel like the names are a bit too small, generally? I'd consider at least increasing the size a bunch on the more important/notable areas, for some distinction. Really cool map, though!
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I've been working on a map that I want to send to print as a 24x36 poster. It's a 3d render Im converting to a JPG for a D&D game I run. Every few years I print out one map and send it to the current players, and this is likely going to be the one for this year.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
A scale and/or a compass rose maybe?
Yeah, a compass would be cool.
We have a running joke about measurements in this world being mysterious as trip times between places vary as the plot demands. Its all part of this place (and this will likely be the map printed after this one once I get around to working on better map markers than dots):
Still not happy with the miles marker on this one, and may cut it as well.
For the mile scale, is it just the white part or the whole thing that is equivalent to 100 miles? I feel like if the graphic was a little clearer it would make it more immediately obvious and useable. Do you have to use miles? What about leagues, they're old-school and have a Celtic origin, very fantasy appropriate? One league is ~3.5 miles, so you could just say the scale is 30 leagues instead of a hundred miles and still be close enough.
Your map has roads, but no rail. Is there no such thing in your universe? No ox-drawn heavy goods carriage by rail?
What I always really appreciate on a map for alternate universes is a grid. It doesn't necessarily have to be drawn over the map, just marked on the border. It makes it a LOT easier for users who likely aren't as familiar with the map as you to find locales quickly for reference.
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
Helllllpppp
I've fallen down a fibre arts hole.
I've spent all day watchign videos on how to dye wool and fibres. And then a few videos on how to use a drop spindle. And then a few videos on how to use a rigid heddle loom.
I have a 14 month old and work almost full time. I cannot get any further into this....
And yet.......
Meanwhile, One WIP has joined the blocking pile! I only now have 2 active things on my needles! and I've been staring at fingerless mitt patterns and trying to figure out if I'm brave enough to attempt DPNs.
you are! you are raising a human, you are absolutely brave enough for crafting challenges. i make no guarantee on whether those challenges will drive you further up the wall.
i've mentioned my love for double points; it took me a long time to come around on the usefulness of circulars. i still prefer DPNs for anything with the diameter of a hat or smaller. Rye and Maize look simple enough if you want to just follow or modify while trying out 3+ needles.
or you can do what i did and improvise after deciding "too much of measurements i don't know." swatch!
these were basically the inverse of each other; some frill at the cuffs and about 6-8 inches of stockinette in between, with some amateurish attempts at shaping. ribbing is great for cuffs since it is stretchy and sleek, but i was trying to avoid it on these for some reason? if you avoid twisting the join and get past the first couple rounds, knitting in the round is just as easy/hard as knitting flat. so you can get something useful even just practicing cast on, knit stockinette to length, and cast off. that doesn't account for ease and rolling, but you get the idea. larger: 5mm, Lion Brand Amazing (Light/Worsted). CO 43. border with p1 row, k2, p1, k2, p1 row. reduce twice. knit 54 rows. inc by 1. double moss st for 6 rows. BO in pattern with Jeny’s stretchy. smaller: 3.25mm, NaturallyCaron Country (DK). CO 40 longtail. double moss st for 12 rows. knit 45 rows. inc by 2 every 4 rows (2x) = 44sts. inc by 4. border with p1 row, k8, p1, k2 row. Jeny’s stretchy BO.
---
also i really should avoid Tuesday Morning or get a job there, 'cause i got another skein of the Fine Art in Chiff Chaff, and Mila (in Rust, o i love all the colors), and found two skeins of some Lana Grossa Lace Lux (looks like strands of glossy pewter.)
i am itching to finally start a Shipwreck Shawl, and omit the Madeira pattern and maybe Strawberry in favor of stockinette in the center. i really just love the netting effect and the ring of Bleeding Heart.
trying to decide if i want to use the Chiff Chaff and alternate skeins to avoid pooling, just use the Lace Lux and likely make a shawlette, or hold them together. i think the Lux might be too delicate for the netting, tho...
---
and final pics of this'n, since i hope to get it to its person soon. sunshine pics, more accurate color; lost any photo skills i used to have:
click to embiggen!
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
This is a drawplate. It's used for making progressively smaller gauges of wire, sometimes shaped. This one was pretty cheap, compared to some others I saw, and there's a pretty good reason why.
About a third of the holes appear to be the same size. Also, 16 gauge is too small for the smallest hole. I'll still use it, I just need to adjust my expectations and buy some thicker wire.
Lesson Re-learned: sometimes, cheap tools are not worth it.
rough forging is mostly done. i'll probably do another couple heats to clean up the tang, which is also way too long. maybe i'll draw it out further and make kind of a knucklebow. it wouldn't be historically accurate, but it's already way too short and curved to be much like archaeological examples, so i'm just gonna go for what looks cool
I've spent all day watchign videos on how to dye wool and fibres. And then a few videos on how to use a drop spindle. And then a few videos on how to use a rigid heddle loom.
Yessss join usssss! Spinning is so much fun and really rewarding! It's so cool to knit something from yarn you made from animal fluff! When I have the space I really want to get into natural dyeing with various local plants (as if I don't have enough hobbies) and someday maybe own sheep and learn to shear. I like the idea of getting to the absolute heart of a craft, being able to produce the entire supply chain.
So this is what I've been up to lately. I decided in January that instead of a New Year's resolution, I was going to set a knitting goal of finishing a pair of socks each month using patterns I've never tried before and using as much yarn from my stash as possible. So far so good! May's sock is a scrappy stripe with pretty much a made up pattern, just my favorite bits from all the socks I've knit.
also @DildoOfCarthage's sister got some new knobs for the drawers in her kitchen. i'm pretty happy with how these turned out, even though i still hate tapping holes
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
I've amazingly only got one project going right now. I tried to start some fingerless gloves, but I kept screwing up the magic circle and I'm annoyed at them still.
also @DildoOfCarthage's sister got some new knobs for the drawers in her kitchen. i'm pretty happy with how these turned out, even though i still hate tapping holes
Trefolex makes tapping threads easy(er).
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CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
I'm not sure if this counts as artsy-fartsy or not, but after many years of saying to myself that I should learn to program already, I've started running Khan academy's programming basics course, which enjoyably enough begins with drawing and animation.
Anyway, this is my first JavaScript animation so even though it's very basic I'm proud of it:
One of the better things I've made recently. I had originally planned these as a limited run, but I think they'll end up in regular rotation eventually. Man, bismuth is fun to play with!
@Dedwrekka Thanks! It was one of those "saw it on Pinterest and thought yeah I could do that" kind of things. It's deceptively simple! Good for doing in front of the TV
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
big wool gathering next weekend. some of my favourite local dyers will be there with lots of scrumminess.
but i think i'm gping to go looking for stitch markers, possibly a drop spindle, and some fleece. and more scrummy yarn.
I've got a shawl set that i preordered waiting for me. 4ply singlespun yak and silk blend. I'm suuuuper excited by it.
Seriously bismuth is fun to play with. I still have more projects I want to do with it.
The mounting looks awesome. As a point of interest, playing with oxygen concentrations can give brighter colors? I have some notes I'll try and find and pm from a pretty cool guy.
@Radiation I was just talking to @Typhoid Manny about that yesterday actually. The way I do it now is...I don't want to say haphazard, but haphazard. If I had a more controlled, measured environment I could definitely have finer control over the color, intensity of the color and size of the crystals. The shop isn't set up for precise measurements and temperature control just yet, but I'd like to play around with it eventually (I'd need a better torch for starter!). If you find those notes I'd love to see them!
we poured a little copper ingot today on a lark. the mold consisted of that magic sand stuff in a cut-in-half little propane bottle which i then stuck a railroad spike into to make a cavity
incidentally, anyone know how to do a copper casting that isn't porous as fuck?
we poured a little copper ingot today on a lark. the mold consisted of that magic sand stuff in a cut-in-half little propane bottle which i then stuck a railroad spike into to make a cavity
incidentally, anyone know how to do a copper casting that isn't porous as fuck?
I'm not experienced in copper casting, but lost wax in plaster casting tends to give decent results (with silver). Any casting will have surface qualities that need refinishing.
It might have been a case of impurities still in the molten metal or just that you didn't pour fast enough after removing it from the heat.
It might have been a case of impurities still in the molten metal or just that you didn't pour fast enough after removing it from the heat.
i think it was probably that, or maybe i just wasn't quite getting hot enough. it was awkward fitting the crucible in the forge and i couldn't get it directly under the burner. you think it would cast better if i put some borax in there for flux?
also i threw together a cloak pin in like half an hour, shown here on the lapel of my ridiculously filthy work shirt:
it isn't perfect, but i'm pretty happy with it for a first stab. the pin needs to be a lot thinner, and i think i might put a twist on the ring on the next one i do
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited May 2017
For putting in borax, what my teachers taught us was to put some of it into the crucible when it's hot and the various bits still haven't globbed together (we were using mixes of scrap and previously cast silver). Then to keep heating both the crucible and the cast entry point (to reduce the immediate cooldown of the metal, not sure if that would be applicable here). Then as quick and safely as possible just tip it in.
Thing to note: we were using oxy acetylene torches to heat the crucible/metal, so different setup. I'm not quite sure how to adapt it to your situation, so I'm just putting down what we did.
so i did a little bit of reading and one thing i found was that molten copper oxidizes really fast and that can contribute to porosity. were you running your torch rich to keep from adding too much extra oxygen?
so i did a little bit of reading and one thing i found was that molten copper oxidizes really fast and that can contribute to porosity. were you running your torch rich to keep from adding too much extra oxygen?
I'll be honest, I don't know. It's one of the things the teachers set up themselves (which I'll have figure out when I get my own studio). Like I mentioned, my experience in the subject isn't quite analogous, but it was my hope it could be useful in in some way.
so i did a little bit of reading and one thing i found was that molten copper oxidizes really fast and that can contribute to porosity. were you running your torch rich to keep from adding too much extra oxygen?
Posts
Pictures in the spoiler go from earliest point (freshly cut, very rough), to filed down, to mostly finished and ready for the next step. That step being to shape the piece until it basically cups the curve of the stone I've chosen followed by crafting a silver band that will fit around the edge of it. Then comes soldering the two together, but that will require access to the studio. As far as finishing from there, I have ideas, but I want to see how it goes before I plan too far.
Also pictured: the teardrop cut labradorite I found at a local rock shop. I love that place.
Not sure what it's missing. I know I need to clean up some artifact lines still showing from the 3d model, but I feel like it is still missing something. Above is a smaller version, the source is a massive 300dpi file I dare not post here.
A scale and/or a compass rose maybe?
Yeah, a compass would be cool.
We have a running joke about measurements in this world being mysterious as trip times between places vary as the plot demands. Its all part of this place (and this will likely be the map printed after this one once I get around to working on better map markers than dots):
Still not happy with the miles marker on this one, and may cut it as well.
Maybe a few boats in the water?
i'm comin for yoooooooooou
Jealous!!!
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
I feel like the names are a bit too small, generally? I'd consider at least increasing the size a bunch on the more important/notable areas, for some distinction. Really cool map, though!
For the mile scale, is it just the white part or the whole thing that is equivalent to 100 miles? I feel like if the graphic was a little clearer it would make it more immediately obvious and useable. Do you have to use miles? What about leagues, they're old-school and have a Celtic origin, very fantasy appropriate? One league is ~3.5 miles, so you could just say the scale is 30 leagues instead of a hundred miles and still be close enough.
Your map has roads, but no rail. Is there no such thing in your universe? No ox-drawn heavy goods carriage by rail?
What I always really appreciate on a map for alternate universes is a grid. It doesn't necessarily have to be drawn over the map, just marked on the border. It makes it a LOT easier for users who likely aren't as familiar with the map as you to find locales quickly for reference.
It’s pretty decent, even though I couldn’t get the copper colour to come through. I think it’s pretty anyway.
WAHAHAAAAAAA
Hats, of course.
2DS/3DS Friend code 0361-7385-2366
Twitter: @PoeticGecko
I've fallen down a fibre arts hole.
I've spent all day watchign videos on how to dye wool and fibres. And then a few videos on how to use a drop spindle. And then a few videos on how to use a rigid heddle loom.
I have a 14 month old and work almost full time. I cannot get any further into this....
And yet.......
Meanwhile, One WIP has joined the blocking pile! I only now have 2 active things on my needles! and I've been staring at fingerless mitt patterns and trying to figure out if I'm brave enough to attempt DPNs.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
i've mentioned my love for double points; it took me a long time to come around on the usefulness of circulars. i still prefer DPNs for anything with the diameter of a hat or smaller.
Rye and Maize look simple enough if you want to just follow or modify while trying out 3+ needles.
or you can do what i did and improvise after deciding "too much of measurements i don't know." swatch!
larger: 5mm, Lion Brand Amazing (Light/Worsted). CO 43. border with p1 row, k2, p1, k2, p1 row. reduce twice. knit 54 rows. inc by 1. double moss st for 6 rows. BO in pattern with Jeny’s stretchy.
smaller: 3.25mm, NaturallyCaron Country (DK). CO 40 longtail. double moss st for 12 rows. knit 45 rows. inc by 2 every 4 rows (2x) = 44sts. inc by 4. border with p1 row, k8, p1, k2 row. Jeny’s stretchy BO.
also i really should avoid Tuesday Morning or get a job there, 'cause i got another skein of the Fine Art in Chiff Chaff, and Mila (in Rust, o i love all the colors), and found two skeins of some Lana Grossa Lace Lux (looks like strands of glossy pewter.)
i am itching to finally start a Shipwreck Shawl, and omit the Madeira pattern and maybe Strawberry in favor of stockinette in the center. i really just love the netting effect and the ring of Bleeding Heart.
trying to decide if i want to use the Chiff Chaff and alternate skeins to avoid pooling, just use the Lace Lux and likely make a shawlette, or hold them together. i think the Lux might be too delicate for the netting, tho...
---
and final pics of this'n, since i hope to get it to its person soon. sunshine pics, more accurate color; lost any photo skills i used to have:
About a third of the holes appear to be the same size. Also, 16 gauge is too small for the smallest hole. I'll still use it, I just need to adjust my expectations and buy some thicker wire.
Lesson Re-learned: sometimes, cheap tools are not worth it.
rough forging is mostly done. i'll probably do another couple heats to clean up the tang, which is also way too long. maybe i'll draw it out further and make kind of a knucklebow. it wouldn't be historically accurate, but it's already way too short and curved to be much like archaeological examples, so i'm just gonna go for what looks cool
hitting hot metal with hammers
Yessss join usssss! Spinning is so much fun and really rewarding! It's so cool to knit something from yarn you made from animal fluff! When I have the space I really want to get into natural dyeing with various local plants (as if I don't have enough hobbies) and someday maybe own sheep and learn to shear. I like the idea of getting to the absolute heart of a craft, being able to produce the entire supply chain.
So basically, you should totally learn to spin.
So this is what I've been up to lately. I decided in January that instead of a New Year's resolution, I was going to set a knitting goal of finishing a pair of socks each month using patterns I've never tried before and using as much yarn from my stash as possible. So far so good! May's sock is a scrappy stripe with pretty much a made up pattern, just my favorite bits from all the socks I've knit.
also @DildoOfCarthage's sister got some new knobs for the drawers in her kitchen. i'm pretty happy with how these turned out, even though i still hate tapping holes
hitting hot metal with hammers
So I'm only working on Flindra http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flindra for my mum. Using alpaca instead of wool. I just want to snuggle it so much.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
Trefolex makes tapping threads easy(er).
Anyway, this is my first JavaScript animation so even though it's very basic I'm proud of it:
https://www.khanacademy.org/computer-programming/spin-off-of-project-shooting-star/6002551976427520
One of the better things I've made recently. I had originally planned these as a limited run, but I think they'll end up in regular rotation eventually. Man, bismuth is fun to play with!
but i think i'm gping to go looking for stitch markers, possibly a drop spindle, and some fleece. and more scrummy yarn.
I've got a shawl set that i preordered waiting for me. 4ply singlespun yak and silk blend. I'm suuuuper excited by it.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
The mounting looks awesome. As a point of interest, playing with oxygen concentrations can give brighter colors? I have some notes I'll try and find and pm from a pretty cool guy.
it's just a little bit of scrap of no importance, but this is a milestone. i can now do all the basic forging operations. i'm now a novice!
hitting hot metal with hammers
we poured a little copper ingot today on a lark. the mold consisted of that magic sand stuff in a cut-in-half little propane bottle which i then stuck a railroad spike into to make a cavity
incidentally, anyone know how to do a copper casting that isn't porous as fuck?
hitting hot metal with hammers
I'm not experienced in copper casting, but lost wax in plaster casting tends to give decent results (with silver). Any casting will have surface qualities that need refinishing.
It might have been a case of impurities still in the molten metal or just that you didn't pour fast enough after removing it from the heat.
i think it was probably that, or maybe i just wasn't quite getting hot enough. it was awkward fitting the crucible in the forge and i couldn't get it directly under the burner. you think it would cast better if i put some borax in there for flux?
also i threw together a cloak pin in like half an hour, shown here on the lapel of my ridiculously filthy work shirt:
it isn't perfect, but i'm pretty happy with it for a first stab. the pin needs to be a lot thinner, and i think i might put a twist on the ring on the next one i do
hitting hot metal with hammers
Thing to note: we were using oxy acetylene torches to heat the crucible/metal, so different setup. I'm not quite sure how to adapt it to your situation, so I'm just putting down what we did.
hitting hot metal with hammers
I'll be honest, I don't know. It's one of the things the teachers set up themselves (which I'll have figure out when I get my own studio). Like I mentioned, my experience in the subject isn't quite analogous, but it was my hope it could be useful in in some way.
Could try adding something that will react with the extra oxygen instead. Looking around it seems like phosphor is one suggestion that pops up, but Phosphor-Copper looks like a more stable version of this than adding pur phosphorus.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(I)_phosphide
http://www.hkramer.com/phosphor-copper-shot-and-waffle.html
https://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/15-Phosphor-Copper-Shot-4-Lbs-Pint-Can-p/3008-004.htm