Aaaaaand cryptocurrencies are crashing. Ethereum (the main one people were buying video cards to mine, so I've read) is now down nearly 40% since its peak two weeks ago.
It's still higher than it was a month ago, though, so it will probably need to go down a bit more for me to have a chance of getting a 1070 at a reasonable price.
I'm really cynical about cryptocurrencies in general. Even stocks and currencies backed up by real world fungible assets undergo serious fluctuations on a regular basis, non-anchored currencies seem like they would be even more at the mercy of the fates.
They're not with your time or your money.
You get better, more realistic returns by investing that $3000 in video cards into a mutual fund.
Sure maybe you could be the one who sells it and makes a mint, but you're more likely to be at the bottom of the pyramid scheme than the top. Representative money is not an investment.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Well, it's time for the summer full computer cleanup. A friend lent me one of these things - should be okay to clean components and the like, right? Given how expensive cans of air run around here, I'm happy to save the ten bucks every cleanup costs me.
That will work just fine.
Man. That almost seems worth it just to avoid can freeze and low pressure.
The battery is an issue, though. I barely had time to finish my cleanup before it ran out of juice, and it takes like fifty minutes to recharge
Admittedly, it's been six months since I cleaned up my computer so it required a LOT of doing. The sheer amount of shit this damned computer absorbs, I swear.
You would think the market is high enough that someone would design crypto currency mining focused cards.
ASUS announced mining specific GPUs today actually. They are just 470's and 1060's with no video outputs. They probably use less power too. Considering miners aren't going to use most of the nice features that are on modern GPUs, manufacturers can probably strip $30 or $40 in components from the boards and instantly have a more attractive card for miners.
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
i need to start thinking about upgrading my old frankenstein rig made up of charity parts and used bits i got for cheap
right now its sitting on a i3-2120 with a gtx660, i think? what is my more immediate replacement need? also is ram super expensive again? it's been a long long time since i did any of this
i need to start thinking about upgrading my old frankenstein rig made up of charity parts and used bits i got for cheap
right now its sitting on a i3-2120 with a gtx660, i think? what is my more immediate replacement need? also is ram super expensive again? it's been a long long time since i did any of this
The 2120 isn't great, but as to whether it's a bottleneck, probably not quite yet. I'd say start looking for a 6GB GTX 1060 to go on sale (for prices to restabilize) around the $250 mark and that should last you while you start saving up to replace everything else. Because unless you go for a used CPU on eBay, you're looking at a new CPU/mobo/RAM, at which point it's pretty much new system time. If you do go for a used CPU, it's only a stall, and it'll still be ballpark $130 for an i7-2600k, which may not include a CPU cooler.
Oh, and yeah RAM is expensive right now, but it's been holding at around this price for like 6 months.
Hopefully quick question:. I've got two sets of Logitech unified receivers for my two computers, they both happen to be connected to the same two devices (old PC got my worn out keyboard/mouse that I liked enough to get the same things)
The issue that I have had in the past is that it seems they were interfering with each other if I had the receivers plugged into the pcs themselves (in the corner of a large corner desk). They way I "solved" the problem was to run long USB extension cables to the monitors and plugged the receivers in there. Which....kind of defeats the purpose of having wireless kbams.
I've just rearranged my office and this time running an extension cable simply isn't really an option so I was wondering if there was anything I could do in order to reduce interference?
Unfortunately I don't have my pcs hooked up as I'm waiting on some cables I need, so I can't look in the software for assistance, bit I thought in the meantime maybe someone here might know what I could do, or has ran into this before.
And to be clear when I say interference I mean occasionally the devices would momentarily pause, which is a massive headache doing just about anything, and the problem went away when I used the USB extension. One option I thought was possibly having the receiver directly on one computer, and run an extension further down the desk for the other (I can't get an extension cable that is reliable the length I would need based on where my monitors now are compared to my pcs).
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
I would think that something on the i5 / GTX 1050 level should be able to handle three streams. If you need to drive more than 3 monitors, you might need a second card.
Hopefully quick question:. I've got two sets of Logitech unified receivers for my two computers, they both happen to be connected to the same two devices (old PC got my worn out keyboard/mouse that I liked enough to get the same things)
The issue that I have had in the past is that it seems they were interfering with each other if I had the receivers plugged into the pcs themselves (in the corner of a large corner desk). They way I "solved" the problem was to run long USB extension cables to the monitors and plugged the receivers in there. Which....kind of defeats the purpose of having wireless kbams.
I've just rearranged my office and this time running an extension cable simply isn't really an option so I was wondering if there was anything I could do in order to reduce interference?
Unfortunately I don't have my pcs hooked up as I'm waiting on some cables I need, so I can't look in the software for assistance, bit I thought in the meantime maybe someone here might know what I could do, or has ran into this before.
And to be clear when I say interference I mean occasionally the devices would momentarily pause, which is a massive headache doing just about anything, and the problem went away when I used the USB extension. One option I thought was possibly having the receiver directly on one computer, and run an extension further down the desk for the other (I can't get an extension cable that is reliable the length I would need based on where my monitors now are compared to my pcs).
Is it possible via software or possibly DIP switches inside one of the receivers, to change the channel that one of them is operating on? That may alleviate the problem. They are essentially operating on the same channel and the same frequency; so the signals get crossed/confused (I'm pretty sure you know this already).
This may not help, but it's cheap and simple: try setting up a barrier between the receivers with tin foil, or line a paper/Solo cup with tin foil and cut holes in it to get it around one of the receivers and see if that helps.
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
I would think that something on the i5 / GTX 1050 level should be able to handle three streams. If you need to drive more than 3 monitors, you might need a second card.
Yeah that'd probably be my recommendation. Check the outputs on the card and make sure there's enough, attach it to the TVs, and then fullscreen the streams on each tv.
That's the lazy/cheap way to do it. I'm sure there exists software to handle it better. Streams aren't really limited by GPU so much as the CPU and your available internet bandwidth.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
I'm slightly worried about the 1050 being able to handle 3 screens of playback at 1080p, but you're likely to be limited by your ISP's bandwidth there. Also graphic wise you're just displaying pixels and not really number crunching like a game so it's not anywhere near as intensive and should be okay.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+1
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Has anyone seen anything about the 7820x running at stock clocks? I've seen a wide number of reviews, but all of them seem to push the chip to its absolute breaking point, so I have no idea how hot the thing runs without an overclock. As it stands, a good many people are claiming it runs at close to 90 °C and sucks up to 400 W at load - but I get the idea that this is when the chip is running at the absolute limit. I'm interested in the 7820x for sure, but if the chip is going to run at something like 70-80 °C under load with reasonable (AIO) cooling, I'm not sure it's going to be a great idea.
Then again, I have no idea what the non-overclocked thermals or power draw might be. Admittedly I'm getting a bit confused, too, because the internet persists in telling me that the chip is absolute garbage whenever I seek any advice. Feels like a smidgen of hyperbole to be honest, but I'm beginning to wonder if there's not something to the chip that's lacking.
It's 140W TDP part. That means from the factory it pulls 140W, to run at stock speeds and stock boosts. 140W is going to generate some heat, it's not going to run as cool as say a 90 or 65W TDP part. But all those watts are what allows all 8 cores to run at such great clock speeds, with a high boost.
If people are getting their 7820X's to draw 400W, then they've overlocked them to an absurd degree and are pushing voltage through it like you wouldn't believe.
Has anyone seen anything about the 7820x running at stock clocks? I've seen a wide number of reviews, but all of them seem to push the chip to its absolute breaking point, so I have no idea how hot the thing runs without an overclock. As it stands, a good many people are claiming it runs at close to 90 °C and sucks up to 400 W at load - but I get the idea that this is when the chip is running at the absolute limit. I'm interested in the 7820x for sure, but if the chip is going to run at something like 70-80 °C under load with reasonable (AIO) cooling, I'm not sure it's going to be a great idea.
Then again, I have no idea what the non-overclocked thermals or power draw might be. Admittedly I'm getting a bit confused, too, because the internet persists in telling me that the chip is absolute garbage whenever I seek any advice. Feels like a smidgen of hyperbole to be honest, but I'm beginning to wonder if there's not something to the chip that's lacking.
It's 140W TDP part. That means from the factory it pulls 140W, to run at stock speeds and stock boosts. 140W is going to generate some heat, it's not going to run as cool as say a 90 or 65W TDP part. But all those watts are what allows all 8 cores to run at such great clock speeds, with a high boost.
If people are getting their 7820X's to draw 400W, then they've overlocked them to an absurd degree and are pushing voltage through it like you wouldn't believe.
I can't help but think they took that 400W as an overall system number.
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
I would think that something on the i5 / GTX 1050 level should be able to handle three streams. If you need to drive more than 3 monitors, you might need a second card.
Yeah that'd probably be my recommendation. Check the outputs on the card and make sure there's enough, attach it to the TVs, and then fullscreen the streams on each tv.
That's the lazy/cheap way to do it. I'm sure there exists software to handle it better. Streams aren't really limited by GPU so much as the CPU and your available internet bandwidth.
1) If this thing is going to be on 24/7 you're going to want it to be passively cooled at much as possible. Don't assume the employees will turn it off or maintain it, because they won't.
2) Honestly if he's just slinging 1080p video to TVs, some of the higher-spec micro PCs (RB Pi form factor) will work.
Something like 3x Intel Compute Sticks + the modern Logitech KB+M that can store 3 BT pairings would cover it all pretty easily. If he is doing multiple TVs from each feed, he'll need some HDMI splitters as well.
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
I would think that something on the i5 / GTX 1050 level should be able to handle three streams. If you need to drive more than 3 monitors, you might need a second card.
Yeah that'd probably be my recommendation. Check the outputs on the card and make sure there's enough, attach it to the TVs, and then fullscreen the streams on each tv.
That's the lazy/cheap way to do it. I'm sure there exists software to handle it better. Streams aren't really limited by GPU so much as the CPU and your available internet bandwidth.
1) If this thing is going to be on 24/7 you're going to want it to be passively cooled at much as possible. Don't assume the employees will turn it off or maintain it, because they won't.
2) Honestly if he's just slinging 1080p video to TVs, some of the higher-spec micro PCs (RB Pi form factor) will work.
Something like 3x Intel Compute Sticks + the modern Logitech KB+M that can store 3 BT pairings would cover it all pretty easily. If he is doing multiple TVs from each feed, he'll need some HDMI splitters as well.
That'd be a PITA to manage though, even more so than the lazy way.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Hopefully quick question:. I've got two sets of Logitech unified receivers for my two computers, they both happen to be connected to the same two devices (old PC got my worn out keyboard/mouse that I liked enough to get the same things)
The issue that I have had in the past is that it seems they were interfering with each other if I had the receivers plugged into the pcs themselves (in the corner of a large corner desk). They way I "solved" the problem was to run long USB extension cables to the monitors and plugged the receivers in there. Which....kind of defeats the purpose of having wireless kbams.
I've just rearranged my office and this time running an extension cable simply isn't really an option so I was wondering if there was anything I could do in order to reduce interference?
Unfortunately I don't have my pcs hooked up as I'm waiting on some cables I need, so I can't look in the software for assistance, bit I thought in the meantime maybe someone here might know what I could do, or has ran into this before.
And to be clear when I say interference I mean occasionally the devices would momentarily pause, which is a massive headache doing just about anything, and the problem went away when I used the USB extension. One option I thought was possibly having the receiver directly on one computer, and run an extension further down the desk for the other (I can't get an extension cable that is reliable the length I would need based on where my monitors now are compared to my pcs).
Is it possible via software or possibly DIP switches inside one of the receivers, to change the channel that one of them is operating on? That may alleviate the problem. They are essentially operating on the same channel and the same frequency; so the signals get crossed/confused (I'm pretty sure you know this already).
This may not help, but it's cheap and simple: try setting up a barrier between the receivers with tin foil, or line a paper/Solo cup with tin foil and cut holes in it to get it around one of the receivers and see if that helps.
I'll give it a look when I can. I did hook up one of my pc's last night kinda haphazardly and plugged the one reciever right into the pc and found I was getting interference even without the other plugged in, so I'm thinking it might not be about nearness to each other but actually something about being hooked directly into the PC (edit: and something else interfering in the space between the pc and the kbam).
Which doesn't actually make sense, given the things are designed to be plugged into a PC/laptop. It makes me wonder if I've got something else interfering with their signal. I don't think it's on the 2.4 or 5ghz of my house wireless but I guess I'm not 100% on that?
I'll look in a bit.
EDIT: unified reciever does in fact use 2.4ghz. And there's no way to manually change its channel. I'll have to wait till I get both my PC's set up again before I start fiddling with too many things.
LuvTheMonkeyHigh Sierra SerenadeRegistered Userregular
edited June 2017
I am going to offer an alternative approach - they should invest in some digital signage management software. The approach can be similar to a5ehren's approach (tiny network clients driving each display), however the key is centralized/cloud management of each display's content schedule. I don't immediately see anything that supports Twitch.tv natively, but Mango Signs, Arreya, and Enplug all support Youtube natively. There are a shitload of companies playing in this space, so it's worth looking around for a while.
New PC build is complete!
Pics of the new rig incoming...
Once the Camera battery charges.. XD
"I know you've been online.... There are lots of people that don't have that voice, that makes them ask themselves if what they make is shit or not." [img][/img]
Here's some images of the new build. Taken in a little bit of a rush as still in the setup/reloading mode for everything.
But so far it's been smooth as with the build. haven't had anything fail yet. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2rDZm8
"I know you've been online.... There are lots of people that don't have that voice, that makes them ask themselves if what they make is shit or not." [img][/img]
How is the 1600X so far? Were you able to overclock it 4.0Ghz easily? If so what are the temps like?
Also would you say the Kraken X52 was worth the price?
When I eventually get around to upgrading the rest of my PC, I was considering getting the Corsair H100i V2, which is much cheaper, but apparently they don't come with AM4 brackets, so if I do end up going the Ryzen 5 route I'd have to purchase the bracket separately.
Also while we're talking about liquid coolers, what's it like to have the radiator push in air from the front? Does the air still feel cool? If ever had a liquid cooler before so I'm genuinely curious.
The 1600X has been fantastic so far, I haven't overclocked it yet as I want to redo the thermal paste that came stock with the cooler so i'll do that afterwards.
The X52 Kraken Has been great but I didn't realise how close the ram modules on this board sit to the CPU so I had to mount the pump upside down so the tube connections didn't hit the ram. but I think that's more a MB problem then anything to do with the cooler. Asthetics wise though the kraken looks awesome, I'd say it's worth the cost but it is a pricey cooler compared to air, could have easily saved half the cost If I went with Air.
The Corsair H100i V2 is a great cooler too, I only went the NZXT to git a bit better with the asthetics I was going for.
I still need to change out the fans to get some better air in the case but overall I haven't noticed any issues with the air coming in through the radiator. It's probably a little warmer than ambient but the exhausts do their job, I wouldn't worry about it.
"I know you've been online.... There are lots of people that don't have that voice, that makes them ask themselves if what they make is shit or not." [img][/img]
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
Cool! Thanks for the info!
Is using stock thermal paste on coolers not recommended? Or are you reapplying it for another reason?
Also is the NZXT logo on the X52 Kraken is upside down too? That'd have to be at least a little annoying considering the effort you put into building this pc.
So I'm finally getting some time in with my rebuilt machine. I'm having a couple of issues.
First is that I will occasionally lose USB connectivity. Like I'll come down after a few days away from the PC, and the keyboard and wifi will be dead. The mouse still works, though.
The other (and likely just due to age, but it is also USB-related) is that I can't get my wireless 360 controller to work. The receiver is the official one...white and gray, so yeah, it might just be too old. It's like I'm not even plugging anything in, the system doesn't recognize it at all.
So hey, computery smart people. At some point, I'm probably going to grab another 16gb of memory to stick in my new iMac, as it's got 16gb and 2 slots free so I mean duh. It's pretty mechanically easy, so that's NBD, but in terms of memory, who's "good"? I see G.Skill come up a lot, and I certainly have no real brand loyalty. DDR4, SO-DIMM, etcetc, that's also no problem, but this "timing" thing; does anyone but a particularly determined overclocker or tinkerer need to care? It's mentioned absolutely nowhere in my system information or Apple's upgrade instructions, but is everywhere when I shop for memory, and I'll be honest, I have no bloody clue about it even after a particularly fervent googling.
So hey, computery smart people. At some point, I'm probably going to grab another 16gb of memory to stick in my new iMac, as it's got 16gb and 2 slots free so I mean duh. It's pretty mechanically easy, so that's NBD, but in terms of memory, who's "good"? I see G.Skill come up a lot, and I certainly have no real brand loyalty. DDR4, SO-DIMM, etcetc, that's also no problem, but this "timing" thing; does anyone but a particularly determined overclocker or tinkerer need to care? It's mentioned absolutely nowhere in my system information or Apple's upgrade instructions, but is everywhere when I shop for memory, and I'll be honest, I have no bloody clue about it even after a particularly fervent googling.
I thought if you're just adding on to the memory there, it's best to match the memory (as far as timing, etc) as well as you can. Could be wrong, though.
So I'm finally getting some time in with my rebuilt machine. I'm having a couple of issues.
First is that I will occasionally lose USB connectivity. Like I'll come down after a few days away from the PC, and the keyboard and wifi will be dead. The mouse still works, though.
The other (and likely just due to age, but it is also USB-related) is that I can't get my wireless 360 controller to work. The receiver is the official one...white and gray, so yeah, it might just be too old. It's like I'm not even plugging anything in, the system doesn't recognize it at all.
So hey, computery smart people. At some point, I'm probably going to grab another 16gb of memory to stick in my new iMac, as it's got 16gb and 2 slots free so I mean duh. It's pretty mechanically easy, so that's NBD, but in terms of memory, who's "good"? I see G.Skill come up a lot, and I certainly have no real brand loyalty. DDR4, SO-DIMM, etcetc, that's also no problem, but this "timing" thing; does anyone but a particularly determined overclocker or tinkerer need to care? It's mentioned absolutely nowhere in my system information or Apple's upgrade instructions, but is everywhere when I shop for memory, and I'll be honest, I have no bloody clue about it even after a particularly fervent googling.
I thought if you're just adding on to the memory there, it's best to match the memory (as far as timing, etc) as well as you can. Could be wrong, though.
Yeah, matching is a good idea. May not be vital, but get the CPU-z for Mac or the equivalent and find out.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited July 2017
So is the Kraken issue with being close the ram a widespread thing on X370 motherboards. I looked online and one pic I found had one of the dimm slots actually blocked.
IceBurnerIt's cold and there are penguins.Registered Userregular
I keep capping my 8GB of RAM on my somewhat-outdated system, and find myself faced with two choices:
A. Spend about $100 on 2x8 GB of DDR3-2400 and carry on with my i5-3570K + ASUS P8Z77-V LX + ASUS STRIX 970 GTX system.
B. Try to catch deals during this holiday week on a new ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo, CPU, and 16 GB DDR4 (and finally get the Corsair 200R case I've wanted).
There's problems with both options.
A: Few 8GB RAM modules are on the QVL for my motherboard, none are DDR3-2400, and all are now hideously expensive. I could pick up 2x8 GB DDR3-2400 Corsair Vengeance for about $110 shipped, but it's not on the QVL, so there's a chance the board and RAM might not play nice.
B: I'm not switching to Windows 10, so it seems I'm stuck with i5/7-6xxx series CPU's. My planned pick of a core i5-7500 was not going to work. I'd have to stick to an i5-6500.
Is B even worthwhile with the generational gap in CPU's, or should I stick to my budget option for now, and look at a big upgrade when I'm ready for a new OS?
So is the Kraken issue with being close the ram a widespread thing on X370 motherboards. I looked online and one pic I found had one of the dimm slots actually blocked.
EDIT: Wait not sure if the pic was a x370
I wouldn't suggest so. I just want to apply thermal paste because I did a shit job installing in and If I remove the cooler to try and put it the right way up i'll need to re-apply the paste.
But I've seen quite a few builds with the kraken that are perfectly fine so it's probably just me.
"I know you've been online.... There are lots of people that don't have that voice, that makes them ask themselves if what they make is shit or not." [img][/img]
I may have also populated the wrong Memory slots... that's probably part of the reason why...
"I know you've been online.... There are lots of people that don't have that voice, that makes them ask themselves if what they make is shit or not." [img][/img]
I keep capping my 8GB of RAM on my somewhat-outdated system, and find myself faced with two choices:
A. Spend about $100 on 2x8 GB of DDR3-2400 and carry on with my i5-3570K + ASUS P8Z77-V LX + ASUS STRIX 970 GTX system.
B. Try to catch deals during this holiday week on a new ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo, CPU, and 16 GB DDR4 (and finally get the Corsair 200R case I've wanted).
There's problems with both options.
A: Few 8GB RAM modules are on the QVL for my motherboard, none are DDR3-2400, and all are now hideously expensive. I could pick up 2x8 GB DDR3-2400 Corsair Vengeance for about $110 shipped, but it's not on the QVL, so there's a chance the board and RAM might not play nice.
B: I'm not switching to Windows 10, so it seems I'm stuck with i5/7-6xxx series CPU's. My planned pick of a core i5-7500 was not going to work. I'd have to stick to an i5-6500.
Is B even worthwhile with the generational gap in CPU's, or should I stick to my budget option for now, and look at a big upgrade when I'm ready for a new OS?
The rest of your system looks fine, so I think the RAM upgrade is enough. Why don't you want Windows 10?
Posts
They're not with your time or your money.
You get better, more realistic returns by investing that $3000 in video cards into a mutual fund.
Sure maybe you could be the one who sells it and makes a mint, but you're more likely to be at the bottom of the pyramid scheme than the top. Representative money is not an investment.
Today (28 June 2017): Samsung 850 EVO 1TB for $280.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/samsung-850-evo-1tb-2-5-inch-sata-iii-internal-ssd
I'd probably just keep it plugged in during use.
ASUS announced mining specific GPUs today actually. They are just 470's and 1060's with no video outputs. They probably use less power too. Considering miners aren't going to use most of the nice features that are on modern GPUs, manufacturers can probably strip $30 or $40 in components from the boards and instantly have a more attractive card for miners.
My friend is going to be opening a craft beer and esports bar, and needs a computer to be his media hub. The ideal is that it will be able to take in 3 different streams at once and display it to several different TVs.
I've only done gaming rigs in the past, what kind of considerations should I have in mind?
right now its sitting on a i3-2120 with a gtx660, i think? what is my more immediate replacement need? also is ram super expensive again? it's been a long long time since i did any of this
The 2120 isn't great, but as to whether it's a bottleneck, probably not quite yet. I'd say start looking for a 6GB GTX 1060 to go on sale (for prices to restabilize) around the $250 mark and that should last you while you start saving up to replace everything else. Because unless you go for a used CPU on eBay, you're looking at a new CPU/mobo/RAM, at which point it's pretty much new system time. If you do go for a used CPU, it's only a stall, and it'll still be ballpark $130 for an i7-2600k, which may not include a CPU cooler.
Oh, and yeah RAM is expensive right now, but it's been holding at around this price for like 6 months.
The issue that I have had in the past is that it seems they were interfering with each other if I had the receivers plugged into the pcs themselves (in the corner of a large corner desk). They way I "solved" the problem was to run long USB extension cables to the monitors and plugged the receivers in there. Which....kind of defeats the purpose of having wireless kbams.
I've just rearranged my office and this time running an extension cable simply isn't really an option so I was wondering if there was anything I could do in order to reduce interference?
Unfortunately I don't have my pcs hooked up as I'm waiting on some cables I need, so I can't look in the software for assistance, bit I thought in the meantime maybe someone here might know what I could do, or has ran into this before.
And to be clear when I say interference I mean occasionally the devices would momentarily pause, which is a massive headache doing just about anything, and the problem went away when I used the USB extension. One option I thought was possibly having the receiver directly on one computer, and run an extension further down the desk for the other (I can't get an extension cable that is reliable the length I would need based on where my monitors now are compared to my pcs).
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
I would think that something on the i5 / GTX 1050 level should be able to handle three streams. If you need to drive more than 3 monitors, you might need a second card.
Is it possible via software or possibly DIP switches inside one of the receivers, to change the channel that one of them is operating on? That may alleviate the problem. They are essentially operating on the same channel and the same frequency; so the signals get crossed/confused (I'm pretty sure you know this already).
This may not help, but it's cheap and simple: try setting up a barrier between the receivers with tin foil, or line a paper/Solo cup with tin foil and cut holes in it to get it around one of the receivers and see if that helps.
Yeah that'd probably be my recommendation. Check the outputs on the card and make sure there's enough, attach it to the TVs, and then fullscreen the streams on each tv.
That's the lazy/cheap way to do it. I'm sure there exists software to handle it better. Streams aren't really limited by GPU so much as the CPU and your available internet bandwidth.
Thanks for the advice so far.
I'm slightly worried about the 1050 being able to handle 3 screens of playback at 1080p, but you're likely to be limited by your ISP's bandwidth there. Also graphic wise you're just displaying pixels and not really number crunching like a game so it's not anywhere near as intensive and should be okay.
It's 140W TDP part. That means from the factory it pulls 140W, to run at stock speeds and stock boosts. 140W is going to generate some heat, it's not going to run as cool as say a 90 or 65W TDP part. But all those watts are what allows all 8 cores to run at such great clock speeds, with a high boost.
If people are getting their 7820X's to draw 400W, then they've overlocked them to an absurd degree and are pushing voltage through it like you wouldn't believe.
I can't help but think they took that 400W as an overall system number.
1) If this thing is going to be on 24/7 you're going to want it to be passively cooled at much as possible. Don't assume the employees will turn it off or maintain it, because they won't.
2) Honestly if he's just slinging 1080p video to TVs, some of the higher-spec micro PCs (RB Pi form factor) will work.
Something like 3x Intel Compute Sticks + the modern Logitech KB+M that can store 3 BT pairings would cover it all pretty easily. If he is doing multiple TVs from each feed, he'll need some HDMI splitters as well.
That'd be a PITA to manage though, even more so than the lazy way.
I'll give it a look when I can. I did hook up one of my pc's last night kinda haphazardly and plugged the one reciever right into the pc and found I was getting interference even without the other plugged in, so I'm thinking it might not be about nearness to each other but actually something about being hooked directly into the PC (edit: and something else interfering in the space between the pc and the kbam).
Which doesn't actually make sense, given the things are designed to be plugged into a PC/laptop. It makes me wonder if I've got something else interfering with their signal. I don't think it's on the 2.4 or 5ghz of my house wireless but I guess I'm not 100% on that?
I'll look in a bit.
EDIT: unified reciever does in fact use 2.4ghz. And there's no way to manually change its channel. I'll have to wait till I get both my PC's set up again before I start fiddling with too many things.
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
Pics of the new rig incoming...
Once the Camera battery charges.. XD
But so far it's been smooth as with the build. haven't had anything fail yet.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2rDZm8
Thank you again @KingofMadCows for this parts list.
That's an awesome PC you built!
Love the look of the RGB motherboard and Ram.
How is the 1600X so far? Were you able to overclock it 4.0Ghz easily? If so what are the temps like?
Also would you say the Kraken X52 was worth the price?
When I eventually get around to upgrading the rest of my PC, I was considering getting the Corsair H100i V2, which is much cheaper, but apparently they don't come with AM4 brackets, so if I do end up going the Ryzen 5 route I'd have to purchase the bracket separately.
Also while we're talking about liquid coolers, what's it like to have the radiator push in air from the front? Does the air still feel cool? If ever had a liquid cooler before so I'm genuinely curious.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
The 1600X has been fantastic so far, I haven't overclocked it yet as I want to redo the thermal paste that came stock with the cooler so i'll do that afterwards.
The X52 Kraken Has been great but I didn't realise how close the ram modules on this board sit to the CPU so I had to mount the pump upside down so the tube connections didn't hit the ram. but I think that's more a MB problem then anything to do with the cooler. Asthetics wise though the kraken looks awesome, I'd say it's worth the cost but it is a pricey cooler compared to air, could have easily saved half the cost If I went with Air.
The Corsair H100i V2 is a great cooler too, I only went the NZXT to git a bit better with the asthetics I was going for.
I still need to change out the fans to get some better air in the case but overall I haven't noticed any issues with the air coming in through the radiator. It's probably a little warmer than ambient but the exhausts do their job, I wouldn't worry about it.
Is using stock thermal paste on coolers not recommended? Or are you reapplying it for another reason?
Also is the NZXT logo on the X52 Kraken is upside down too? That'd have to be at least a little annoying considering the effort you put into building this pc.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
The pump upside down isn't ideal, you don't want to fight gravity, but pretty sure it's fine overall.
You want it at the bottom of the water column (i.e. the height of the total liquid system)
This is just general fluid systems stuff. For an AIO cpu cooler it might not matter at all.
First is that I will occasionally lose USB connectivity. Like I'll come down after a few days away from the PC, and the keyboard and wifi will be dead. The mouse still works, though.
The other (and likely just due to age, but it is also USB-related) is that I can't get my wireless 360 controller to work. The receiver is the official one...white and gray, so yeah, it might just be too old. It's like I'm not even plugging anything in, the system doesn't recognize it at all.
I thought if you're just adding on to the memory there, it's best to match the memory (as far as timing, etc) as well as you can. Could be wrong, though.
Try getting the driver for the adapter?
Yeah, matching is a good idea. May not be vital, but get the CPU-z for Mac or the equivalent and find out.
EDIT: Wait not sure if the pic was a x370
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
A. Spend about $100 on 2x8 GB of DDR3-2400 and carry on with my i5-3570K + ASUS P8Z77-V LX + ASUS STRIX 970 GTX system.
B. Try to catch deals during this holiday week on a new ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo, CPU, and 16 GB DDR4 (and finally get the Corsair 200R case I've wanted).
There's problems with both options.
A: Few 8GB RAM modules are on the QVL for my motherboard, none are DDR3-2400, and all are now hideously expensive. I could pick up 2x8 GB DDR3-2400 Corsair Vengeance for about $110 shipped, but it's not on the QVL, so there's a chance the board and RAM might not play nice.
B: I'm not switching to Windows 10, so it seems I'm stuck with i5/7-6xxx series CPU's. My planned pick of a core i5-7500 was not going to work. I'd have to stick to an i5-6500.
Is B even worthwhile with the generational gap in CPU's, or should I stick to my budget option for now, and look at a big upgrade when I'm ready for a new OS?
PSN: theIceBurner, IceBurnerEU, IceBurner-JP | X-Link Kai: TheIceBurner
Dragon's Dogma: 192 Warrior Linty | 80 Strider Alicia | 32 Mage Terra
I wouldn't suggest so. I just want to apply thermal paste because I did a shit job installing in and If I remove the cooler to try and put it the right way up i'll need to re-apply the paste.
But I've seen quite a few builds with the kraken that are perfectly fine so it's probably just me.
The rest of your system looks fine, so I think the RAM upgrade is enough. Why don't you want Windows 10?