I've started on the orc and it's going pretty well. I watered down the wash a lot more, maybe my drops just weren't big enough so this is the actual intended amount, but it looks pretty good once I put it on. Next is the part i'm still leery about, the drybrushing. I'm worried I get too much paint on than what is intended.
Anyway here's the skellington.
Not happy with how the quiver turned out, again that was the drybrushing part that just got too much paint on or something. Maybe I need a better brush. I'll look over some technique suggestions again too.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So, first main base coat finished. I really like the way the red turned out, very vibrant. I guess all that layering and two thin coats helped (in this instance, two thin coats of dark red which was 4 drops blood red mixed with 1 drop true black, and two thin coats of blood red on top of it)
Next I'm going to apply base coats for the skin, weapons, and cloth stuff like the tabards. I've briefly considered making the fabric of the pants the same color as the tabards and cloth strips, but that seems like a pain in the ass on top of a bunch of pains in the ass. And there's still 5 more Wych Cult elves I haven't even started on (and might not do for awhile since I think I have all the ones I want for Kill-Team base coated)
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I've started on the orc and it's going pretty well. I watered down the wash a lot more, maybe my drops just weren't big enough so this is the actual intended amount, but it looks pretty good once I put it on. Next is the part i'm still leery about, the drybrushing. I'm worried I get too much paint on than what is intended.
Anyway here's the skellington.
Not happy with how the quiver turned out, again that was the drybrushing part that just got too much paint on or something. Maybe I need a better brush. I'll look over some technique suggestions again too.
Dry brushing is pretty easy once you figure out a good method for it. I got pretty good with it loke 10 years ago since really all I needed to do with Necrons was prime them and then either base coat or just go prime to dry brush and done.
This video helped me a lot when I was getting back into painting.
Edit: Quick note, even though he is using a dry paint in the video the method still applies perfectly to normal paint.
Orc done. Was happy with it, again, until the drybrushing. Then everything just became the drybrush color(s) instead of things getting highlighted like I think it was supposed to. Still not sure why.
The wash went a lot better though. More water was the right move.
I'm thinking when I move on to the actual Dark Souls figures i'll go a lot more simple than the dozen colors per figure that these tutorials are doing. Picking the colors I want will be a whole other hurdle probably.
sounds like you might have too much paint left on the brush when dry brushing, you want get the paint on the brush then to "paint" some scrap paper until there is just barely traces of paint being left. then lightly brush the model.
its one of those things that you will "get it" at some point and it will be super easy from then on, but until that point its a little nebulous
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Yea when you think the paint is off the brush, do a few more passes on the paper towel and then apply to the mini, and then move VERY slowly toward it while waggling the brush.
My hangup right now is the wash. I'm ready to wash but I suck so much at it. I think I'm going to stop using black and make washes based on the area I'm washing, like darker skin tone, and darker pants color and things like that.
@Asher Be very thankful yours didn't have broken fleather ... blade ... things.
Because that shit does not go back together. Be very cautious when cutting off the gates.
Noted! Thanks for the tip, I'm going to start putting him together today.
I have been painting minis too! Eeeevil minis
the new edition of Lord of the Rings, now Middle Earth has revitalised by desire to paint. I am SUPER rusty, also I can't take photos on my phone worth a damn anymore . AND I can't find my card adaptor for my actual Camera. I should fix that.
Update: So far I have broken 2 wing vanes despite Dr_Keenbeans warning. FFFFFfffffff.
Asher on
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Woo my washes went OK and my drybrushing ended up also being decent for the first time doing it on a miniature versus terrain. I wish Hero Forge minis were about 15-20% bigger. Even for D&D they can be a touch too small.
What brushes do people use for fine detail dry brushing? I feel like I need a 00 with a flat edge versus a point.
for drybrushing I use whatever old crappy brush I have laying around, the process is not friendly to brushes and will ruin a good brush super fast. flat brushes work better than points
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Alright, Meet Podrus. My Minotaur barbarian that only took me a year to paint, and in which we only have about a month or so left in the campaign he is a part of. By god he's done now though!
It’s never been an issue before but in my last two out of three prime jobs I’ve totally wrecked some models via dusting with primer so they end up texture. Very frustrating, specifically using GW white primer.
Definitely punched my enthusiasm for this project right in the gut.
It’s never been an issue before but in my last two out of three prime jobs I’ve totally wrecked some models via dusting with primer so they end up texture. Very frustrating, specifically using GW white primer.
Definitely punched my enthusiasm for this project right in the gut.
Really it's been to hot to primer here i really want to but i want the temp and conditions to be just right
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
I finished my billboard terrain - and so of course the first thing that I did with it was load up the original DoW trailer. Also included are my completely touched up Tanith 1st & Only minis, Lil Billy, and Baj 'Binocs' Rajcek.
Big Daddy Corax is together. Got the jump pack and head bu-tacked for now. Will probably have to wait until the weekend to start painting him because he's going to need some quality airbrush time
Airbrush priming is the only thing I use on minis now. Spray primer is strictly for terrain.
Honestly, that's the only thing I've used my airbrush for, and it's already been worth the purchase price ten times over. Weather in NY is so humid all through the summer, and it feels like Fall/Spring last maybe 4 days and then you're immediately into winter. Plus, I live in a multi-family house on the second floor, so getting access to the garage involves scheduling. So, lining up scheduled time to be in the garage (otherwise there will be a car being worked on or dogs putting their nose into primer) and coupling that to temperature / humidity levels was always a giant pain in the butt.
Now, when I want to work on a mini that I haven't primed yet, it's just a 20 minute set up / tear down time. I'm also honestly considering using the airbrush to do some zenithal highlights for skin on some KDM minis...but I don't know if I want to try that quite yet....
Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
I use Vallejo surface primer, black or grey depending on what color the model is gonna be. Comes in either a big 200ml bottle or a little 60ml. Can pour it right into the airbrush, though I put a little thinner in there just to keep things regular.
You can use the GW basecoat colors afterwards through the airbrush, but primer is always the first step for any model that gets handled. Base colors would need to be thinned quite a bit though, they’re pretty thick by design.
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FC: 1435-5383-0883
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
What is the benefit of airbrush priming over a can?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What is the benefit of airbrush priming over a can?
I think its a control thing. Rattle cans cover a wide area and are in accurate leading to over priming. Ita why I brush prime.
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
The most obvious one for a lot of people is environmental. Airbrushes use whatever solvent I’m the paint comes with (typically water for acrylics) rather than the awful stinky stuff rattlecans use and they aren’t anywhere near as sensitive to local atmospheric conditions as spray cans.
You also get better control (less overspray) and, now that you have an airbrush, you can do other things with it.
Rattlecan solvents can melt certain types of materials and are horrible for you. It also comes out way too hard, which can obscure detail if you’re too close, and holding the can further back just raises the chances of getting the fuzzies.
I can kick back in my porch recliner and have a relaxing morning priming a ton of stuff in any weather without poisoning myself or ruining my models. (You still need good ventilation when dealing with any sort of fine airborne particle.)
I think I might start painting on my primer, I do only skirmish scale stuff these days.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
The benefits? There are many. From the most basic standpoint an airbrush gives you an easy option to do MORE than just basecoat, but even at that it's definitely superior once you work out proper paint consistency. It probably gives better results, lets you use products that are generally agreed upon as superior, tends to take up much less space, has much less strict parameters for usage, and can typically be used regardless of weather conditions.
Realistically, the main - and not at all insignificant - con of an airbrush is the startup cost. You can get something cheap, but most people won't. So you're looking at a couple hundred dollars to get an airbrush, compressor, anything you might want for a decent spray-booth setup, etc.
If you can get by on a spray can, I understand why you wouldn't be interested in changing, but not everyone can. For me, I've never had a garage to use, and rarely a balcony on my apartments. That makes using a can terrible, whereas an airbrush takes up less space, has way less typical spray area, and isn't as dependent on the weather. Those are pretty significant factors when living on the eastern coast where the weather is a coin-flip daily. :P
I have to ask you fine folk here because it has been bugging me for a while. Long time ago I got some figures to paint and went to my local hobby shop. I asked for primers and the lady there recommended me some whites and said that they are the same. I bought them and didn't think anything of it till I got home. Never painted them and I still have the white sitting there.
But I can not find the information I need on the Internet so figure you all here are a good information base.
Is primer different than white paint?
I really need to know since it has been bugging me since the beginning. In the old days I would paint my models with grey or white paint and then move on as they acted like a primer. But now I'm older and wanting to do it right, are they the same?
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Can you post a picture or name the brand or anything? It's maybe worth considering that primer IS paint, but not all paint IS primer, you know? If you have white primer, I imagine you're fine. If you just have white paint, you'll likely have a harder time.
Alright... added some of that Vallejo primer to my amazon wishlist. That looks a hell of a lot more convenient than my current garage/rattlecan routine. Especially with all the weird ridges and cavities that my tyrands seem to have.
Yes. The purpose of primer is to give the paint something to grip onto, because metal, plastic, resin, etc don't offer much in the way of traction. So just slapping a layer of paint on and calling it primer really doesn't do anything beneficial.
Yes. The purpose of primer is to give the paint something to grip onto, because metal, plastic, resin, etc don't offer much in the way of traction. So just slapping a layer of paint on and calling it primer really doesn't do anything beneficial.
Thank goodness someone could help me with that. I personally figured they were different somehow but could never get a clear answer.
That’s … not exhaustive detail? Punch your centres before drilling is machinists 101 and, yeah, it’s a good tip for a beginner but “exhaustive” should have more than one tip, surely?
That’s … not exhaustive detail? Punch your centres before drilling is machinists 101 and, yeah, it’s a good tip for a beginner but “exhaustive” should have more than one tip, surely?
Turns out it's not that difficult, I guess.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Damn, you all make me feel like I should prime with my airbrush now but I have like half a can of chaos black, some tan army painter primer, and two cans of the fang still.
I've never really had trouble with primer besides the white gw primer. That came out kind if bad but I also did it during monsoon season in AZ so humidity might have wrecked it.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
edited September 2018
A different, worse colour
I'm trying to get a bunch of deamons off of my to-do shelf this fall. I'm taking less time per model with the hordes of troops but I still think they're turning out OK
TIFunkalicious on
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Damn, you all make me feel like I should prime with my airbrush now but I have like half a can of chaos black, some tan army painter primer, and two cans of the fang still.
I've never really had trouble with primer besides the white gw primer. That came out kind if bad but I also did it during monsoon season in AZ so humidity might have wrecked it.
This is absolutely, 110% the reason why rattlecan primers have problems. If you're even a smidgen outside of a proper temp/humidity range, it can get messed up. That's the #1 reason I ended up getting an airbrush.
You can do lots of great work with rattlecans, but it's super sensitive to climate. And depending on where you live, on Earth, touchy climate conditions are probably a thing that exists.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited September 2018
Purple
So like, I guess it might be worth bringing up in this discussion that I "recently" opted to repaint my fightstick parts with spray cans because I expected it to be easier to get proper coverage of larger pieces, and that I'd more likely find a good anodized-effect metallic paint for cars before I found one for miniatures. On both counts, I was probably wrong, though in the end things certainly came out okay and I learned some solid things about the process. However predominantly because of the absurd humidity we had this summer, doing the process right took over two months. If I had just figured out some nice chrome + clear solution for my airbrush, I would easily have been done in under 2 weeks no matter what the outside was like. It's a pretty big deal. <_<
Airbrush priming is the only thing I use on minis now. Spray primer is strictly for terrain.
Can you just use GW "Base coat" paints to prime with using an airbrush, or are you using a primer of some kind?
GW has airbrush paints - the Air line. I use Vallejo black airbrush primer on everything first and then clean my airbbrush and go my basecoat where i blast everything with GW's Dawnstone Air for my basecoat.
Its a simple proess and its only the base coat the time savings make it worthwhile to have an airbrush just for that.
Posts
Anyway here's the skellington.
Not happy with how the quiver turned out, again that was the drybrushing part that just got too much paint on or something. Maybe I need a better brush. I'll look over some technique suggestions again too.
Next I'm going to apply base coats for the skin, weapons, and cloth stuff like the tabards. I've briefly considered making the fabric of the pants the same color as the tabards and cloth strips, but that seems like a pain in the ass on top of a bunch of pains in the ass. And there's still 5 more Wych Cult elves I haven't even started on (and might not do for awhile since I think I have all the ones I want for Kill-Team base coated)
Dry brushing is pretty easy once you figure out a good method for it. I got pretty good with it loke 10 years ago since really all I needed to do with Necrons was prime them and then either base coat or just go prime to dry brush and done.
This video helped me a lot when I was getting back into painting.
Edit: Quick note, even though he is using a dry paint in the video the method still applies perfectly to normal paint.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The wash went a lot better though. More water was the right move.
I'm thinking when I move on to the actual Dark Souls figures i'll go a lot more simple than the dozen colors per figure that these tutorials are doing. Picking the colors I want will be a whole other hurdle probably.
its one of those things that you will "get it" at some point and it will be super easy from then on, but until that point its a little nebulous
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
My hangup right now is the wash. I'm ready to wash but I suck so much at it. I think I'm going to stop using black and make washes based on the area I'm washing, like darker skin tone, and darker pants color and things like that.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Is it the one where we hi5 over the corpses of Traitors, our glorious manes blowing in the wind?
Noted! Thanks for the tip, I'm going to start putting him together today.
I have been painting minis too! Eeeevil minis
the new edition of Lord of the Rings, now Middle Earth has revitalised by desire to paint. I am SUPER rusty, also I can't take photos on my phone worth a damn anymore
Update: So far I have broken 2 wing vanes despite Dr_Keenbeans warning. FFFFFfffffff.
What brushes do people use for fine detail dry brushing? I feel like I need a 00 with a flat edge versus a point.
Once I finish clear coating I'll take a photo.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Definitely punched my enthusiasm for this project right in the gut.
Really it's been to hot to primer here i really want to but i want the temp and conditions to be just right
https://i.imgur.com/cPpu9FU.mp4
Big Daddy Corax is together. Got the jump pack and head bu-tacked for now. Will probably have to wait until the weekend to start painting him because he's going to need some quality airbrush time
Honestly, that's the only thing I've used my airbrush for, and it's already been worth the purchase price ten times over. Weather in NY is so humid all through the summer, and it feels like Fall/Spring last maybe 4 days and then you're immediately into winter. Plus, I live in a multi-family house on the second floor, so getting access to the garage involves scheduling. So, lining up scheduled time to be in the garage (otherwise there will be a car being worked on or dogs putting their nose into primer) and coupling that to temperature / humidity levels was always a giant pain in the butt.
Now, when I want to work on a mini that I haven't primed yet, it's just a 20 minute set up / tear down time. I'm also honestly considering using the airbrush to do some zenithal highlights for skin on some KDM minis...but I don't know if I want to try that quite yet....
Can you just use GW "Base coat" paints to prime with using an airbrush, or are you using a primer of some kind?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
You can use the GW basecoat colors afterwards through the airbrush, but primer is always the first step for any model that gets handled. Base colors would need to be thinned quite a bit though, they’re pretty thick by design.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I think its a control thing. Rattle cans cover a wide area and are in accurate leading to over priming. Ita why I brush prime.
You also get better control (less overspray) and, now that you have an airbrush, you can do other things with it.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I can kick back in my porch recliner and have a relaxing morning priming a ton of stuff in any weather without poisoning myself or ruining my models. (You still need good ventilation when dealing with any sort of fine airborne particle.)
Realistically, the main - and not at all insignificant - con of an airbrush is the startup cost. You can get something cheap, but most people won't. So you're looking at a couple hundred dollars to get an airbrush, compressor, anything you might want for a decent spray-booth setup, etc.
If you can get by on a spray can, I understand why you wouldn't be interested in changing, but not everyone can. For me, I've never had a garage to use, and rarely a balcony on my apartments. That makes using a can terrible, whereas an airbrush takes up less space, has way less typical spray area, and isn't as dependent on the weather. Those are pretty significant factors when living on the eastern coast where the weather is a coin-flip daily. :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
But I can not find the information I need on the Internet so figure you all here are a good information base.
Is primer different than white paint?
I really need to know since it has been bugging me since the beginning. In the old days I would paint my models with grey or white paint and then move on as they acted like a primer. But now I'm older and wanting to do it right, are they the same?
Thanks all.
Steam: betsuni7
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
He goes into exhaustive detail but gives some very good tips about drilling barrels
Thank goodness someone could help me with that. I personally figured they were different somehow but could never get a clear answer.
Steam: betsuni7
That’s … not exhaustive detail? Punch your centres before drilling is machinists 101 and, yeah, it’s a good tip for a beginner but “exhaustive” should have more than one tip, surely?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Turns out it's not that difficult, I guess.
I've never really had trouble with primer besides the white gw primer. That came out kind if bad but I also did it during monsoon season in AZ so humidity might have wrecked it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm trying to get a bunch of deamons off of my to-do shelf this fall. I'm taking less time per model with the hordes of troops but I still think they're turning out OK
This is absolutely, 110% the reason why rattlecan primers have problems. If you're even a smidgen outside of a proper temp/humidity range, it can get messed up. That's the #1 reason I ended up getting an airbrush.
You can do lots of great work with rattlecans, but it's super sensitive to climate. And depending on where you live, on Earth, touchy climate conditions are probably a thing that exists.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I gotta use up those rattle cans though. So pricey, can't waste that money.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
GW has airbrush paints - the Air line. I use Vallejo black airbrush primer on everything first and then clean my airbbrush and go my basecoat where i blast everything with GW's Dawnstone Air for my basecoat.
Its a simple proess and its only the base coat the time savings make it worthwhile to have an airbrush just for that.