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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?
Dayspring
the PhoenicianRegistered User regular
the PhoenicianRegistered User regular
Welcome to the next Painting Miniatures thread!
All are welcome, whatever your skill level, whatever game/hobby/you are into, as long as it is vaguely small and requires painting.
Here's a selection of highlights from the end of the last thread;
All are welcome, whatever your skill level, whatever game/hobby/you are into, as long as it is vaguely small and requires painting.
Here's a selection of highlights from the end of the last thread;
valhalla130 wrote: »
Dayspring on
[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures? 75 votes
Purple
53%
40 votes
A different, worse colour
46%
35 votes
+4
This discussion has been closed.
Posts
Purple to make them fly
Or red, to make em go faster
Look humans. Look at what my cybernetic faculties can achieve.
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I gotta get back to painting.
Checks out.
You need them red to go fast, and blue to be lucky enough not to fall down. And by their powers combined: purple
You had one job, Dayspring!
Just saying that all the other different, worse colors had a lot more representation than purple.
One is red, one is blue. Together, purple!
Whichever one you vote for, purple wins
Grimace.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
For those who don't know i've spent like the last 2 years or so painting up Space Marines as various Transformers. I've got something over a full companys worth of marines.
I finally got some Primaris marines at Christmas and actually got them painted. (except bases), did them all as some of the bots that came out around 1990 that all had a gimmick of somekind
So first up some Headmasters; Hardhead, Highbrow (sadly a regualar marine) and Cerebro
Targetmasters (obviously using Hellblaster marines because of the giant gun); Crosshairs, Pointblank and Sureshot
Normal Primaris Marines; The hilariously named Erector, Countdown (these two are actually named after early 90's minicon toys I had, Countdown came with a rocket base, it was awesome) and Sprocket
2 Sparkabots (toys that made sparks when you pushed them along the floor) and a Headmaster; Fizzle, Nightbeat and Sizzle
Action Masters (bots that couldn't transform); Powerflash, Rad and Rollout
1 more Action Master; Jackpot, a normal bot, Cosmos (turned into a flying saucer) and the sole Decepticon of todays pictures a Targetmaster, Triggerhappy
Most of the online videos for painting these, especially the eyes, are on the level of "draw 2 circles, draw the rest of the fucking owl" for me. I'm starting to think there's no tricks except just keep painting until you don't suck
however, I have about 200 3d printed dungeon tiles to paint and there's gotta be some trick for those... I'm thinking grey spray primer and just throwing a wash over the whole bunch?
Anything I've seen about bulk terrain is that rattlecans and washed are your friends. Add a quick dry brush highlight if you feel like it.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I don't feel like spending $20 on a rattle can when I can get the same-ish color from a hardware store brand BUT I don't want to use a hardware store rattle can and then have a regular pot of GW acrylic not adhere to it properly.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Punchy Dread (all my current ones have arm weapons)
Deredeo Dread arachnoid.
Never stop making evil robots.
? ? ? ?
More seriously, I'd love to see something like Hero Forge but for mecha. Build your own tabletop robot minis from a selection of modular parts, Armored Core style.
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Did you ever play with RoboForge back in the day?
It's been a pretty substantial amount of time, I don't know if it's still around for download or not.
But it let you "build" robots out of a selection of parts and styles. Might be fun to see if there was some way to print them using a 3d printer.
I'm assembling the Primaris Apothecary, and he's really easy to build, but those servo-arms on his backpack have one issue. The little piece that attaches to the arm with the syringe or saw is very thin, with a very small diameter to the little arm. I'm pretty sure the one I wanted to use, the little drill, is going to break. And I still haven't gotten all the plastic cut away from where it attached to the sprue.
I'm going to use the other attachment, the one that looks like a taser. Does anyone have any suggestions for not doing this again to this next piece?
The guides I have seen for simple 3D printed terrain is to drybrush with three tones over black primer. Also for whatever reason, latex paint is popular for this.
I think you will want to be a bit careful with washes as they might make the serrations from the printing obvious (assuming a FDM printer; I am less sure about resin ones).
You might want to invest in some new clippers. Dull ones will just mash the piece off the sprue and lead to warping and broken bits. A new xacto blade for getting rid of sprue bits helps too but with those tiny pieces it’s all about that first cut off the sprue with clippers.
You could try fixing the broken pieces by carefully coating the snapped off part in plastic glue and setting it at the correct angle.
If you’re going to try to repair a broken part, invest in some ‘paint on’ poly cement (the water-thin kind that wicks into thin gaps) as it leaves far less residue, though the working time is much, much shorter.
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My current hypothesis is that I subconsciously hate myself.
For what its worth I'm pretty sure the Warhammer TV method is prime gold, paint blue.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Going to airbrush my exalted sorcerers instead.
I took a chance and used the drill piece I wanted, and I'm just going to have to be careful transporting this model, but wow, is this guy full of character.
I also just spent a couple of hours watching white armor videos, and GW's method of just not painting white at all, but grey, just looks grey to me. Im gonna go with something else.
You should drybrush after the wash. The way I'd do it would be coat black, use a dark gray spray over that, unevenly, wash, then drybrush to make the details pop. I've found no drybrush highlight makes it very drab and dull looking.
Here's a tip: either way is awful. There is no enjoyable way to paint rubrics.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Astrogranite Debris... I'm thinking base, wash with nuln oil, drybrush dawnstone and add a couple of tiny red/orange highlights to suggest an ashen wasteland with a few still burning embers.
...that's how I see it going in my head anyway...
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Maybe a darker shade in the crevices? Like a dark blue wash?