That vid doesn't even catch the fact that another car nailed the driver door after the initial impact. Scary shit and a good demonstration of how far the safety tech has come in racing.
I just read that Mazda's upcoming straight six will likely have exhaust runners in the head and Siamese outlets of some kind.
I was really excited for I-6 tunes coming from a RWD Mazda and now I'm sad.
Probably the same kind of design as the BMW/Toyota 6. It they're paired up in the most sensible way and the engine uses the typical 6 cylinder firing order, with a 3 into 1 manifold design you'll still get a straight six howl out of the engine.
I just read that Mazda's upcoming straight six will likely have exhaust runners in the head and Siamese outlets of some kind.
I was really excited for I-6 tunes coming from a RWD Mazda and now I'm sad.
Probably the same kind of design as the BMW/Toyota 6. It they're paired up in the most sensible way and the engine uses the typical 6 cylinder firing order, with a 3 into 1 manifold design you'll still get a straight six howl out of the engine.
so I just realized when I was making whats the difference between a caddy and a impala post I forgot that only one of those was raced as the chassis for nascar for when the camero wasn't around
take what will you with from that information but it gave me a good lol
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
So, there's a new model Alfa coming - the Guilia Quadrifoglio GTA.
Tiny weight reduction (~45 pounds), but a significant power upgrade - an extra 85 kilowatts, bringing total power to 460 kilowatts, or 616 horsepower for the metrically-deprived amongst us.
It's going to cost a boatload of cash, but if that's not the kind of four-door family sedan you think would be fun to own, this probably isn't the thread for you.
Also, the Supra is getting a power increase - from 250 kW to 285 kW (an extra 50 or so ponies). Likely very little is being changed at all for real, they're probably just being more honest about how much power the car actually makes in stock form.
My dad recently had an E500 wagon, and while the engine and trans were great, everything else on it fell apart. So while I do like the E63 wagon, I'm content to admire it at a distance.
I like it when cars work. That's why I bought an SS and not an E39 M5. I want the M5 more... but the SS worked, day in and day out.
EDIT: If they don't work, they should at least be cheap and easy to fix... hence why I'm on my 4th F-Body.
I sold it almost a year to the day ago when I got laid off. :sad: Didn't have the cash to burn on the loan payment while I was looking for a new job. I want to find another one in a year or two, when my student loans are paid off and a big car note is easier to manage... prices seem to be holding steady so far, so as long as they don't skyrocket I should be good.
That car was so close to perfect, but it really needed a supercharger to give it that little bit extra. I had already put together a parts list before I sold it, LOL.
L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Do any of you know anything about circuits and the like?
I'd like to wire up some LED strips in the footwell of my car, but I want it to be powered from either the parking lights or the door switch. I'd like to wire it up to some kind of delayed relay so that when the power is cut, they stay lit for a few seconds afterwords.
I'm having a hard time finding the right way to phrase it so that Google can guide me towards something useful. Some way without introducing some kind of controller like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi and programming. Something where it takes whatever power it has, doesn't switch if it doesn't need to.
Can you all help me or help point me towards it?
I've got to have something to do while stuck at home.
Most cars already run the lights for a few seconds after the doors close, so tapping into the existing light circuits should be all you need unless you're trying to do something specific (Or you're unhappy with the current behavior.)
If you wanted a specific "kill lights 5 seconds after door close" behavior and the car doesn't already do that, you might be able to rig to something with a few capacitors connected to the door switch? I recall doing something like that with a cheap electronics kit as a kid.
Most cars already run the lights for a few seconds after the doors close, so tapping into the existing light circuits should be all you need unless you're trying to do something specific (Or you're unhappy with the current behavior.)
If you wanted a specific "kill lights 5 seconds after door close" behavior and the car doesn't already do that, you might be able to rig to something with a few capacitors connected to the door switch? I recall doing something like that with a cheap electronics kit as a kid.
I've seen kits that also have a dedicated controller that you can set behavior, so you wire in the controller to the fuse box, set the behavior you want, and wire your lights into that.
L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Yeah sorry let me back up.
It's a 1997 Honda Civic
The interior light only works when the door is open and doesn't stay lit after. It's really cheap, but reliable.
There's no other controller or anything like it already on the car.
I want to wire it up to both the interior lights and parking lights, so that as long as one of them has power, the foot well lights are lit up.
I'd think a controller could be added easily, but adding in something that can take power from up to two places is something I'm having problems researching.
I'm not an electronics guy, so somebody with better knowledge please check my math here, but I think the answer to your question is diodes. Most people are already familiar with them as LEDs (light emitting diodes), but basically they only allow current to pass through in one direction.
You want to take a positive line from the parking light circuit and a positive line from the interior light circuit, without them interacting with each other. I think that if you ran a diode on each line before connecting the two together, you would be able to prevent feedback (i.e. interior lights turning on when the parking lights come on) while still allowing each circuit to turn on your footwell lights individually. If both are on, there should be no effect.
It's finally nice enough that I've been able to take my bike out of storage, which means an oil change and chain cleaning and lubing, (the latter pretty much every week to two weeks).
And I have a question for you all.
How do you clean a (microfibre)cloth of oil/lube?
I have a brush which has bristles on three interior sides which makes cleaning the chain super easy, but then I have to wipe it down with a cloth which gets super damn dirty and I want to clean them effectively but I'm just not sure how
It's finally nice enough that I've been able to take my bike out of storage, which means an oil change and chain cleaning and lubing, (the latter pretty much every week to two weeks).
And I have a question for you all.
How do you clean a (microfibre)cloth of oil/lube?
I have a brush which has bristles on three interior sides which makes cleaning the chain super easy, but then I have to wipe it down with a cloth which gets super damn dirty and I want to clean them effectively but I'm just not sure how
You could try soaking it in a dilution of APC and then washing is separately in a free and clear detergent. Still, jobs like that are usually the kind of thing you use microfibers towels you don't care about and can be thrown away afterwards.
I would like to have that engine in an otherwise very taxi-spec Toyota Crown Comfort.
All he did was was custom build that intake to fit 4A-GE throttle bodies and retune the engine with an aftermarket computer and it makes just shy of 400 wheel horsepower, proving how badly choked down they are in stock form (~280 flywheel horsepower).
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
You will find a new old stock brand new dash for one of those Cressidas right under your nearest pile of hen's teeth.
Well of course, but if you're going that far for a car you find one, or have the original one restored. It is a sweet car though, I wonder how hard it is to tune with all the carbs. How many are on that anyways?
You will find a new old stock brand new dash for one of those Cressidas right under your nearest pile of hen's teeth.
Well of course, but if you're going that far for a car you find one, or have the original one restored. It is a sweet car though, I wonder how hard it is to tune with all the carbs. How many are on that anyways?
There are zero carburettors on that car.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Well thats good, also a little sad. There is something magical about 6 carbs tuned to perfection, like a Ferrari 275 or such.
I would like to have that engine in an otherwise very taxi-spec Toyota Crown Comfort.
All he did was was custom build that intake to fit 4A-GE throttle bodies and retune the engine with an aftermarket computer and it makes just shy of 400 wheel horsepower, proving how badly choked down they are in stock form (~280 flywheel horsepower).
And source the car, and the engine, and install them, and do the suspension, and.. and.. :P
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Well thats good, also a little sad. There is something magical about 6 carbs tuned to perfection, like a Ferrari 275 or such.
ITBs are just as musical as carburettors, but allow your engine be tuned much more efficiently so it starts, idles, and runs far smoother, whilst making more power and using less fuel.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I would like to have that engine in an otherwise very taxi-spec Toyota Crown Comfort.
All he did was was custom build that intake to fit 4A-GE throttle bodies and retune the engine with an aftermarket computer and it makes just shy of 400 wheel horsepower, proving how badly choked down they are in stock form (~280 flywheel horsepower).
And source the car, and the engine, and install them, and do the suspension, and.. and.. :P
Indeed, but I was focusing on the engine power output. A set of high compression pistons, reground cams, tuned-length exhaust manifolds and some bigger 'yectors and I reckon a good tuner could screw over 100 hp/litre out of one of those 1GZ-FE engines on pump 98 without having to go completely stupid.
Posts
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Edit:
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Matt and Zack are having an absolute blast in this video, I don't know that I've ever seen them have so much fun in a video.
I was really excited for I-6 tunes coming from a RWD Mazda and now I'm sad.
I feel like they should have five point harnesses, helmets, gloves, and reinforced roll cage, Jesus. Completely awesome.
Probably the same kind of design as the BMW/Toyota 6. It they're paired up in the most sensible way and the engine uses the typical 6 cylinder firing order, with a 3 into 1 manifold design you'll still get a straight six howl out of the engine.
I hope so!
take what will you with from that information but it gave me a good lol
Tiny weight reduction (~45 pounds), but a significant power upgrade - an extra 85 kilowatts, bringing total power to 460 kilowatts, or 616 horsepower for the metrically-deprived amongst us.
It's going to cost a boatload of cash, but if that's not the kind of four-door family sedan you think would be fun to own, this probably isn't the thread for you.
Also, the Supra is getting a power increase - from 250 kW to 285 kW (an extra 50 or so ponies). Likely very little is being changed at all for real, they're probably just being more honest about how much power the car actually makes in stock form.
Give me an HSV GTS :winky:
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
A Giulia will run rings around a GTS, especially the GTA model...
I'd figure you'd be more inclined to something like an AMG E63 S!
I like it when cars work. That's why I bought an SS and not an E39 M5. I want the M5 more... but the SS worked, day in and day out.
EDIT: If they don't work, they should at least be cheap and easy to fix... hence why I'm on my 4th F-Body.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/fdfi2300-holden-ve-vf-commodore
I sold it almost a year to the day ago when I got laid off. :sad: Didn't have the cash to burn on the loan payment while I was looking for a new job. I want to find another one in a year or two, when my student loans are paid off and a big car note is easier to manage... prices seem to be holding steady so far, so as long as they don't skyrocket I should be good.
That car was so close to perfect, but it really needed a supercharger to give it that little bit extra. I had already put together a parts list before I sold it, LOL.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
I'd like to wire up some LED strips in the footwell of my car, but I want it to be powered from either the parking lights or the door switch. I'd like to wire it up to some kind of delayed relay so that when the power is cut, they stay lit for a few seconds afterwords.
I'm having a hard time finding the right way to phrase it so that Google can guide me towards something useful. Some way without introducing some kind of controller like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi and programming. Something where it takes whatever power it has, doesn't switch if it doesn't need to.
Can you all help me or help point me towards it?
I've got to have something to do while stuck at home.
If you wanted a specific "kill lights 5 seconds after door close" behavior and the car doesn't already do that, you might be able to rig to something with a few capacitors connected to the door switch? I recall doing something like that with a cheap electronics kit as a kid.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
I've seen kits that also have a dedicated controller that you can set behavior, so you wire in the controller to the fuse box, set the behavior you want, and wire your lights into that.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
It's a 1997 Honda Civic
The interior light only works when the door is open and doesn't stay lit after. It's really cheap, but reliable.
There's no other controller or anything like it already on the car.
I want to wire it up to both the interior lights and parking lights, so that as long as one of them has power, the foot well lights are lit up.
I'd think a controller could be added easily, but adding in something that can take power from up to two places is something I'm having problems researching.
You want to take a positive line from the parking light circuit and a positive line from the interior light circuit, without them interacting with each other. I think that if you ran a diode on each line before connecting the two together, you would be able to prevent feedback (i.e. interior lights turning on when the parking lights come on) while still allowing each circuit to turn on your footwell lights individually. If both are on, there should be no effect.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
And I have a question for you all.
How do you clean a (microfibre)cloth of oil/lube?
I have a brush which has bristles on three interior sides which makes cleaning the chain super easy, but then I have to wipe it down with a cloth which gets super damn dirty and I want to clean them effectively but I'm just not sure how
You could try soaking it in a dilution of APC and then washing is separately in a free and clear detergent. Still, jobs like that are usually the kind of thing you use microfibers towels you don't care about and can be thrown away afterwards.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
All he did was was custom build that intake to fit 4A-GE throttle bodies and retune the engine with an aftermarket computer and it makes just shy of 400 wheel horsepower, proving how badly choked down they are in stock form (~280 flywheel horsepower).
Well of course, but if you're going that far for a car you find one, or have the original one restored. It is a sweet car though, I wonder how hard it is to tune with all the carbs. How many are on that anyways?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
There are zero carburettors on that car.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
And source the car, and the engine, and install them, and do the suspension, and.. and.. :P
ITBs are just as musical as carburettors, but allow your engine be tuned much more efficiently so it starts, idles, and runs far smoother, whilst making more power and using less fuel.
Indeed, but I was focusing on the engine power output. A set of high compression pistons, reground cams, tuned-length exhaust manifolds and some bigger 'yectors and I reckon a good tuner could screw over 100 hp/litre out of one of those 1GZ-FE engines on pump 98 without having to go completely stupid.