Yeah but the rating 80+ Gold or 80+ Platinum is literally just about power efficiency curve under load for the power being used. Are they getting that efficiency by using better parts, sure. Is there any real world impact other than using less watts of energy over time, probably not.
It depends on what you're building for. I want a 4k/60 fps computer, but I also want to get it as quiet as possible. There isn't always a direct relationship between efficiency and noise levels, but it's hard to find a bronze that's particularly quiet. You can get platinum and titanium PSUs with dbas in the mid teens and can even be passive for periods of time. The Seasonic I picked up (750 plat) is about 19dba, for example.
A duck! on
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The Corsair 1000w was a Prime day special for $150. A couple of us in the thread pulled the trigger on that looks like.
I ended up with the 750 Gold. 1KW is total overkill for anything any of us would be doing with a PC.
Yeah. 1 Kilowatt is ~450 watts of overkill for my build without overclocking. Or as I like to think about it, designed margin so the PSU fan doesn't need to run.
FYI Newegg is running another 4 day sale, not sure how great it is. The prices look like they're competitive with some of the Prime day sales that popped up.
Yeah but the rating 80+ Gold or 80+ Platinum is literally just about power efficiency curve under load for the power being used. Are they getting that efficiency by using better parts, sure. Is there any real world impact other than using less watts of energy over time, probably not.
I feel like this is something someone would say when they've never had a cheap liquid cap on their PSU blow.
@Mugsley no worries I didn't take any offense. I know it's overkill for his age. I'm just hoping it'll last through the next few years and that we can play some triple a title's.
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Yeah but the rating 80+ Gold or 80+ Platinum is literally just about power efficiency curve under load for the power being used. Are they getting that efficiency by using better parts, sure. Is there any real world impact other than using less watts of energy over time, probably not.
I feel like this is something someone would say when they've never had a cheap liquid cap on their PSU blow.
Exactly. Like I said previously, the higher the rating, the better built the PSU will be. It can result in something as abstract as service life but it also how cleanly AC is switched to DC. I wish I had an oscilloscope because there is an actual measurable difference in the quality of power between low end and high end PSUs. I'll grant you that the difference between 80+ Bronze and 80+ Platinum is minor but I contend that it's measurable.
Turning AC into DC isn't as messy as turning DC into AC but there are still significant pitfalls to overcome that are affected by the overall quality of parts that go into the system. Solid caps are 1. The transformer itself can be another. A good quality transformer will have a very precise copper winding and will be sealed with lacquer. A cheap transformer might have a messy winding that is just held together with tape.
The Corsair 1000w was a Prime day special for $150. A couple of us in the thread pulled the trigger on that looks like.
I ended up with the 750 Gold. 1KW is total overkill for anything any of us would be doing with a PC.
Yeah. 1 Kilowatt is ~450 watts of overkill for my build without overclocking. Or as I like to think about it, designed margin so the PSU fan doesn't need to run.
Got a 1k Corsair PSU 3 years ago for $130 and the fan never kicks on. It's great.
Pulled the trigger. $1234.40 total after taxes and a free Prime trial. Will be here Tuesday/Wednesday. Now I just have to hope that adding my savings account to Amazon will allow the payment to go through.
Yeah but the rating 80+ Gold or 80+ Platinum is literally just about power efficiency curve under load for the power being used. Are they getting that efficiency by using better parts, sure. Is there any real world impact other than using less watts of energy over time, probably not.
I feel like this is something someone would say when they've never had a cheap liquid cap on their PSU blow.
Exactly. Like I said previously, the higher the rating, the better built the PSU will be. It can result in something as abstract as service life but it also how cleanly AC is switched to DC. I wish I had an oscilloscope because there is an actual measurable difference in the quality of power between low end and high end PSUs. I'll grant you that the difference between 80+ Bronze and 80+ Platinum is minor but I contend that it's measurable.
Turning AC into DC isn't as messy as turning DC into AC but there are still significant pitfalls to overcome that are affected by the overall quality of parts that go into the system. Solid caps are 1. The transformer itself can be another. A good quality transformer will have a very precise copper winding and will be sealed with lacquer. A cheap transformer might have a messy winding that is just held together with tape.
You are conflating the 80+ rating with the build quality directly though which isn't always going to be the case and will vary depending on who is making it (though will be true for a particular manufacturer and product line).
I think it's funny that I'm the one who bought the 80+ Platinum 1000w and arguing that it really isn't needed and you told me earlier it was overkill earlier.
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I have 1000w 80+ Gold PSU, I think the 1000w part is overkill for most builds. I don't think the 80+ Gold part is. With reputable brands, it's generally fine to correlate build quality with the 80+ rating. By definition you tend to need nicer internals to reach those efficiency targets. That doesn't mean every 80+ Platinum is built better than every 80+ Bronze, but I think if you're going with one of the known/recommended PSU brands, you will generally find a correlation between better internals and the efficiency rating.
Pulled the trigger. $1234.40 total after taxes and a free Prime trial. Will be here Tuesday/Wednesday. Now I just have to hope that adding my savings account to Amazon will allow the payment to go through.
Yeah but the rating 80+ Gold or 80+ Platinum is literally just about power efficiency curve under load for the power being used. Are they getting that efficiency by using better parts, sure. Is there any real world impact other than using less watts of energy over time, probably not.
I feel like this is something someone would say when they've never had a cheap liquid cap on their PSU blow.
Exactly. Like I said previously, the higher the rating, the better built the PSU will be. It can result in something as abstract as service life but it also how cleanly AC is switched to DC. I wish I had an oscilloscope because there is an actual measurable difference in the quality of power between low end and high end PSUs. I'll grant you that the difference between 80+ Bronze and 80+ Platinum is minor but I contend that it's measurable.
Turning AC into DC isn't as messy as turning DC into AC but there are still significant pitfalls to overcome that are affected by the overall quality of parts that go into the system. Solid caps are 1. The transformer itself can be another. A good quality transformer will have a very precise copper winding and will be sealed with lacquer. A cheap transformer might have a messy winding that is just held together with tape.
You are conflating the 80+ rating with the build quality directly though which isn't always going to be the case and will vary depending on who is making it (though will be true for a particular manufacturer and product line).
I think it's funny that I'm the one who bought the 80+ Platinum 1000w and arguing that it really isn't needed and you told me earlier it was overkill earlier.
No, I'm not. I qualified my statement with "generally." That means there are exceptions. As Gnome said, it's a correlative association not a hard fast rule.
Pulled the trigger. $1234.40 total after taxes and a free Prime trial. Will be here Tuesday/Wednesday. Now I just have to hope that adding my savings account to Amazon will allow the payment to go through.
Here's the best pic I could get, apparently I have a crappy camera. Fair warning, hella unorganized cables in here. I used my "old" mITX components, I'm pretty sure I'm doing SFF wrong...
6700k @ 4.4Ghz
5700xt
16GB ram
Ergodox EZ keyboard
Logitech G600 & Glorious Model O
It runs everything I need it to, but that's not gonna stop me from upgrading to Ryzen 3000 or the next Threadrippers soon.
The desk is a custom built 80/20 frame. I'm a pretty broad shouldered guy, the adjustment on the arms and the split keyboard help tremendously with shoulder pain.
The backplate and chaos star are waterjet cut aluminum pieces. The motherboard tray is a Streacom BC1. The entire setup was absurdly expensive, but the justification I used was that I would be able to utilize it for all of my builds going forward.
The backplate is set up for a custom watercooling loop, which will happen once I get new components. The plan is to put both the CPU & GPU on the loop. The "monitor" is a 55" TCL S425. It's pretty badass, but definitely too big. I mainly
got it because I got a killer deal on it from a local store. I'll be keeping my eye on the upcoming Asus 43" ROG monitor. I need to decorate the frame somehow, but I'm at a bit of a loss. I have a ton of the same black fabric that's on the arms, a seamstress I ain't though.
I need to get a longer HDMI cable, the one I have right now is 6ft and it barely works.
I'm probably going to want to do a clean install of the OS for this. Figure I'll install the SSD and the other drives, but not connect the non-SSD drives initially.
How hard is it going to be to get my Windows 10 key, or fight with the Microsoft Authentication server? I'm replacing everything except the HDD.
I have my Windows 8 Pro key, from when I bought the upgrade from Windows 7 to 8 in 2013, but, IIRC Windows 10 was a free upgrade from 8 for the longest time.
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mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
From what I read it's completely transferable as long as its not an OEM key (even if it's windows 7/8)? And even then I *think* the OEM key is transferable but you might need to call microsoft to get it moved.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
So you and I were having similar doubts. What was the tipping point for you?
Spoke to someone else who convinced me the Ryzen has better future-proofing. Of course, now that I've got everything ordered, a new review popped up for the motherboard I selected indicating compatibility problems followed by a failed BIOS flash attempt resulting in an RMA to the manufacturer and being without a computer for 2-3 weeks so I'm having doubts all over again. We'll see.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Re: the PSU discussion from last page. Given a 500 watt build, I would be comfortable with at minimum a 750 watt PSU. Because, simply put, I do not trust the components to be run at max load for the next 5 years, including summers when ambient might just hit 40C. I want a significant amount of margin so I can run flat out at max without worrying about blowing a cap in my PSU and having it wreck my build.
I also strongly recommend visiting reputable PSU reviews where they do the teardowns, they do the hotbox testing, and they do the ripple, transient, and startup tests to make sure the regulation is not just within the ATX spec limits, but exceeding them. JonnyGuru was great while they lasted (the last review unfortunately was earlier this year). Anandtech and others do a very good job now.
But I wouldn't buy just any old damn "Platinum 750 watt PSU". I want one that has been thoroughly tested and reviewed because if it goes, it wrecks the rest of a $3000 build, and I'm not okay with that.
This may be of interest to some people, GamersNexus put up a review of the 3800X where they unequivocally dumped on it. In their tests it was getting 2% or less performance increases over the 3700X outside of one game, where it got about a 4% increase. The conclusion was to just get a 3700X and save $70.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Yeah, either get a 3700X or pay the price spike for a 3900X. The 3800X seems like a pointless part.
Yeah, either get a 3700X or pay the price spike for a 3900X. The 3800X seems like a pointless part.
Just looking at the specs I don't understand its value proposition.
One musing I read that stuck with me is that it's basically a tactical move. For little effort AMD puts a chip out at another price point so that you don't have a huge price gap in the lineup between the 3700X and 3900X, and if somebody buys the 3800X it's basically just extra profit.
This may be of interest to some people, GamersNexus put up a review of the 3800X where they unequivocally dumped on it. In their tests it was getting 2% or less performance increases over the 3700X outside of one game, where it got about a 4% increase. The conclusion was to just get a 3700X and save $70.
Wait. I thought the 3800X was set to a higher auto-overclock, and the Ryzen 3k chips are set to prevent overclocking past a certain point?
Because if not, my order still hasn't gone through and I can easily cancel that 3800X for the 3700X...
Edit: Fuck it. Canceled the 3800X for the 3700X. With the absurd Noctua and the auto-overclocking nonsense I probably ain't gonna see a difference.
And speaking of the new PC. I know DDR4 doesn't run at whatever magical PC3200 / PC3700 whatever number by default. The spec is something like PC2600 or somesuch nonsense, and everything else is overclocking, right?
I presume there's some BIOS options I'll need to set out of the box? OC the ram, enable that auto-OC that the GamersNexus guy was talking about above, etc?
@KiTA you can poke through the Windows thread, but basically since you have the Win8 key, you'll be fine. If you set up a Microsoft login at any point in Win10, it should be even easier.
Edit: either way, it won't hamstring the OS if you hold off activation when you first get things up and running.
This may be of interest to some people, GamersNexus put up a review of the 3800X where they unequivocally dumped on it. In their tests it was getting 2% or less performance increases over the 3700X outside of one game, where it got about a 4% increase. The conclusion was to just get a 3700X and save $70.
Wait. I thought the 3800X was set to a higher auto-overclock, and the Ryzen 3k chips are set to prevent overclocking past a certain point?
Because if not, my order still hasn't gone through and I can easily cancel that 3800X for the 3700X...
Edit: Fuck it. Canceled the 3800X for the 3700X. With the absurd Noctua and the auto-overclocking nonsense I probably ain't gonna see a difference.
And speaking of the new PC. I know DDR4 doesn't run at whatever magical PC3200 / PC3700 whatever number by default. The spec is something like PC2600 or somesuch nonsense, and everything else is overclocking, right?
I presume there's some BIOS options I'll need to set out of the box? OC the ram, enable that auto-OC that the GamersNexus guy was talking about above, etc?
Edit: XMP profile? Something?
You don't need to do anything to it out of the box for the 3700x to do it's Precision Boost thing. It's part of the architecture.
XMP profile is for doing memory overclock so you probably will want to do that though at least to set it to what your RAM is rated for (out of the box it'll only be set to 2133 which is the default for DD4 even if the ram you buy is rated for higher)
So apparently the BIOS fix that was supposed to resolve the problem where Destiny 2 won't launch got pulled because they found a different bug in it. I put my new parts in and crossed my fingers the patch would drop this weekend...whoops!
Might be worth rechecking the 3800x in a few months to see if the binning improves, just a thought. I know the early Ryzen 1000s had issues like that.
I don't think binning is the problem.
Some folks have gotten some real silicon jackpots out the things - like Level1 - and we did see the 1000 series improve over time... I suspect the 3800x was gonna be better, but early process issues and Epyc being hungry for good chiplets caused issues. Apparently Zen 1 had similar cannibalism problems - we're currently getting the leftovers from Epyc and TR3.
Jeep-Eep on
I would rather be accused of intransigence than tolerating genocide for the sake of everyone getting along. - @Metzger Meister
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Might be worth rechecking the 3800x in a few months to see if the binning improves, just a thought. I know the early Ryzen 1000s had issues like that.
I don't think binning is the problem.
Some folks have gotten some real silicon jackpots out the things - like Level1 - and we did see the 1000 series improve over time... I suspect the 3800x was gonna be better, but early process issues and Epyc being hungry for good chiplets caused issues. Apparently Zen 1 had similar cannibalism problems - we're currently getting the leftovers from Epyc and TR3.
When the binning for the 3800X improves, it's likely so will the 3900X and 3700X. They'll improve linearly and probably in parallel.
Again, we're talking margin of error improvements for a not-insignificant amount of money, or $50 more for a 3900X with actual improvements from the 3700X.
Might be worth rechecking the 3800x in a few months to see if the binning improves, just a thought. I know the early Ryzen 1000s had issues like that.
I don't think binning is the problem.
Some folks have gotten some real silicon jackpots out the things - like Level1 - and we did see the 1000 series improve over time... I suspect the 3800x was gonna be better, but early process issues and Epyc being hungry for good chiplets caused issues. Apparently Zen 1 had similar cannibalism problems - we're currently getting the leftovers from Epyc and TR3.
When the binning for the 3800X improves, it's likely so will the 3900X and 3700X. They'll improve linearly and probably in parallel.
Again, we're talking margin of error improvements for a not-insignificant amount of money, or $50 more for a 3900X with actual improvements from the 3700X.
The 3800X is a SKU without a purpose.
In parallel... maybe, but not sure how linearly. I could easily see a space opening up between -700x and 900x. It's not especially skin off my nose, as I'd be waiting for discounted (and thus, late binned) 4950Xes to upgrade... largely as I anticipated the early teething issues of MCM.
I would rather be accused of intransigence than tolerating genocide for the sake of everyone getting along. - @Metzger Meister
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
In parallel... maybe, but not sure how linearly. I could easily see a space opening up between -700x and 900x. It's not especially skin off my nose, as I'd be waiting for discounted (and thus, late binned) 4950Xes to upgrade... largely as I anticipated the early teething issues of MCM.
I don't see how you can possibly be talking about late binning when we're in week two of release and availability is still extremely limited for any devices whatsoever. You may as well be talking about the Ryzen 4000 series.
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Might be worth rechecking the 3800x in a few months to see if the binning improves, just a thought. I know the early Ryzen 1000s had issues like that.
I don't think binning is the problem.
Some folks have gotten some real silicon jackpots out the things - like Level1 - and we did see the 1000 series improve over time... I suspect the 3800x was gonna be better, but early process issues and Epyc being hungry for good chiplets caused issues. Apparently Zen 1 had similar cannibalism problems - we're currently getting the leftovers from Epyc and TR3.
When the binning for the 3800X improves, it's likely so will the 3900X and 3700X. They'll improve linearly and probably in parallel.
Again, we're talking margin of error improvements for a not-insignificant amount of money, or $50 more for a 3900X with actual improvements from the 3700X.
The 3800X is a SKU without a purpose.
In parallel... maybe, but not sure how linearly. I could easily see a space opening up between -700x and 900x. It's not especially skin off my nose, as I'd be waiting for discounted (and thus, late binned) 4950Xes to upgrade... largely as I anticipated the early teething issues of MCM.
So I should wait to replace my 2600k with 4950x? What about the 5950x? I hear they are working on a general purpose quantum computer. Maybe I should wait for that.
Posts
It depends on what you're building for. I want a 4k/60 fps computer, but I also want to get it as quiet as possible. There isn't always a direct relationship between efficiency and noise levels, but it's hard to find a bronze that's particularly quiet. You can get platinum and titanium PSUs with dbas in the mid teens and can even be passive for periods of time. The Seasonic I picked up (750 plat) is about 19dba, for example.
You...
I...
Uhh...
The month of July is not 22 days long.
You have some time, do not waste it.
Yeah. 1 Kilowatt is ~450 watts of overkill for my build without overclocking. Or as I like to think about it, designed margin so the PSU fan doesn't need to run.
I feel like this is something someone would say when they've never had a cheap liquid cap on their PSU blow.
Now the final piece is the gpu.
@Mugsley no worries I didn't take any offense. I know it's overkill for his age. I'm just hoping it'll last through the next few years and that we can play some triple a title's.
Exactly. Like I said previously, the higher the rating, the better built the PSU will be. It can result in something as abstract as service life but it also how cleanly AC is switched to DC. I wish I had an oscilloscope because there is an actual measurable difference in the quality of power between low end and high end PSUs. I'll grant you that the difference between 80+ Bronze and 80+ Platinum is minor but I contend that it's measurable.
Turning AC into DC isn't as messy as turning DC into AC but there are still significant pitfalls to overcome that are affected by the overall quality of parts that go into the system. Solid caps are 1. The transformer itself can be another. A good quality transformer will have a very precise copper winding and will be sealed with lacquer. A cheap transformer might have a messy winding that is just held together with tape.
Got a 1k Corsair PSU 3 years ago for $130 and the fan never kicks on. It's great.
I'll probably never have my desk "pinterest ready", I'll post a pic of it tonight. It started as a Cyberpunk build but somehow ended up Warhammer. :?
Pulled the trigger. $1234.40 total after taxes and a free Prime trial. Will be here Tuesday/Wednesday. Now I just have to hope that adding my savings account to Amazon will allow the payment to go through.
Edit: This is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XxFPMZ
Looking at a 5700XT upgrade once the partner cards with sane coolers come out.
You are conflating the 80+ rating with the build quality directly though which isn't always going to be the case and will vary depending on who is making it (though will be true for a particular manufacturer and product line).
I think it's funny that I'm the one who bought the 80+ Platinum 1000w and arguing that it really isn't needed and you told me earlier it was overkill earlier.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
you couldn't find 16 more cents to spend?
No, I'm not. I qualified my statement with "generally." That means there are exceptions. As Gnome said, it's a correlative association not a hard fast rule.
I KNOW. And no, I LOOKED.
6700k @ 4.4Ghz
5700xt
16GB ram
Ergodox EZ keyboard
Logitech G600 & Glorious Model O
It runs everything I need it to, but that's not gonna stop me from upgrading to Ryzen 3000 or the next Threadrippers soon.
The desk is a custom built 80/20 frame. I'm a pretty broad shouldered guy, the adjustment on the arms and the split keyboard help tremendously with shoulder pain.
The backplate and chaos star are waterjet cut aluminum pieces. The motherboard tray is a Streacom BC1. The entire setup was absurdly expensive, but the justification I used was that I would be able to utilize it for all of my builds going forward.
The backplate is set up for a custom watercooling loop, which will happen once I get new components. The plan is to put both the CPU & GPU on the loop. The "monitor" is a 55" TCL S425. It's pretty badass, but definitely too big. I mainly
got it because I got a killer deal on it from a local store. I'll be keeping my eye on the upcoming Asus 43" ROG monitor. I need to decorate the frame somehow, but I'm at a bit of a loss. I have a ton of the same black fabric that's on the arms, a seamstress I ain't though.
I need to get a longer HDMI cable, the one I have right now is 6ft and it barely works.
I'm probably going to want to do a clean install of the OS for this. Figure I'll install the SSD and the other drives, but not connect the non-SSD drives initially.
How hard is it going to be to get my Windows 10 key, or fight with the Microsoft Authentication server? I'm replacing everything except the HDD.
I have my Windows 8 Pro key, from when I bought the upgrade from Windows 7 to 8 in 2013, but, IIRC Windows 10 was a free upgrade from 8 for the longest time.
Spoke to someone else who convinced me the Ryzen has better future-proofing. Of course, now that I've got everything ordered, a new review popped up for the motherboard I selected indicating compatibility problems followed by a failed BIOS flash attempt resulting in an RMA to the manufacturer and being without a computer for 2-3 weeks so I'm having doubts all over again. We'll see.
I also strongly recommend visiting reputable PSU reviews where they do the teardowns, they do the hotbox testing, and they do the ripple, transient, and startup tests to make sure the regulation is not just within the ATX spec limits, but exceeding them. JonnyGuru was great while they lasted (the last review unfortunately was earlier this year). Anandtech and others do a very good job now.
But I wouldn't buy just any old damn "Platinum 750 watt PSU". I want one that has been thoroughly tested and reviewed because if it goes, it wrecks the rest of a $3000 build, and I'm not okay with that.
Just looking at the specs I don't understand its value proposition.
One musing I read that stuck with me is that it's basically a tactical move. For little effort AMD puts a chip out at another price point so that you don't have a huge price gap in the lineup between the 3700X and 3900X, and if somebody buys the 3800X it's basically just extra profit.
Wait. I thought the 3800X was set to a higher auto-overclock, and the Ryzen 3k chips are set to prevent overclocking past a certain point?
Because if not, my order still hasn't gone through and I can easily cancel that 3800X for the 3700X...
Edit: Fuck it. Canceled the 3800X for the 3700X. With the absurd Noctua and the auto-overclocking nonsense I probably ain't gonna see a difference.
And speaking of the new PC. I know DDR4 doesn't run at whatever magical PC3200 / PC3700 whatever number by default. The spec is something like PC2600 or somesuch nonsense, and everything else is overclocking, right?
I presume there's some BIOS options I'll need to set out of the box? OC the ram, enable that auto-OC that the GamersNexus guy was talking about above, etc?
Edit: XMP profile? Something?
Edit: either way, it won't hamstring the OS if you hold off activation when you first get things up and running.
What temperatures are you getting on the 5700xt?
Origin: theRealElMucho
You don't need to do anything to it out of the box for the 3700x to do it's Precision Boost thing. It's part of the architecture.
XMP profile is for doing memory overclock so you probably will want to do that though at least to set it to what your RAM is rated for (out of the box it'll only be set to 2133 which is the default for DD4 even if the ram you buy is rated for higher)
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
According to Wattman, 35C idle, 80C in FFXIV. Ambient room temp of 22C.
I don't think binning is the problem.
Some folks have gotten some real silicon jackpots out the things - like Level1 - and we did see the 1000 series improve over time... I suspect the 3800x was gonna be better, but early process issues and Epyc being hungry for good chiplets caused issues. Apparently Zen 1 had similar cannibalism problems - we're currently getting the leftovers from Epyc and TR3.
When the binning for the 3800X improves, it's likely so will the 3900X and 3700X. They'll improve linearly and probably in parallel.
Again, we're talking margin of error improvements for a not-insignificant amount of money, or $50 more for a 3900X with actual improvements from the 3700X.
The 3800X is a SKU without a purpose.
In parallel... maybe, but not sure how linearly. I could easily see a space opening up between -700x and 900x. It's not especially skin off my nose, as I'd be waiting for discounted (and thus, late binned) 4950Xes to upgrade... largely as I anticipated the early teething issues of MCM.
I don't see how you can possibly be talking about late binning when we're in week two of release and availability is still extremely limited for any devices whatsoever. You may as well be talking about the Ryzen 4000 series.
So I should wait to replace my 2600k with 4950x? What about the 5950x? I hear they are working on a general purpose quantum computer. Maybe I should wait for that.
Where's the sales when I need it?
What shall I do with my anxious consumerism?
buy a 2060 super?