GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited April 19
Depends on the chip set. X570 has chip set PCI-e 4.0 lanes, so it can run multiple drives at 4. B550 only supports PCI-e 4.0 through the CPU lanes. In fact it's chip set/CPU bridge only runs at PCI-e 3.0, so even if it had chip set lanes they'd be worthless.
I assume B550 will still run one drive at 4.0 if it can, direct link to the CPU, and the second drive at 3.0 to the chip set.
Ok, after much struggle, I have successfully soldered wires repairing 2 out of the 7 damaged traces on the motherboard.
The trick turned out to be roughing up the wire with an exacto knife blade normal to it. Also ditching the precision tweezers that were recommended and going with a blunter instrument with a wider gripping surface. Also not holding them in the tweezers so much as just pressing them down into place. The wire was so prone to leaping off the trace because it wanted to curl, holding them down with the flat of the tweezers right next to the soldering iron kept them in place long enough to cool and bond. Also not spending too long on the second end after the first because the heat will conduct down and just release it from the solder on that end instead.
If this thing actually POSTs again after I'm done with it, I'm gonna be unbearable for a while. Way too proud of myself.
Man this ROG Strix B550 thing is bumming me out. I might actually want to use ethernet at some point and don't want to have to deal with that.
I might go back to my first choice and pay a bit more for the x570 MSI MEG Unify.
edit - MSI have a deal going in Australia where you get Steam vouchers buying products before November 15th. The x570 Unify comes with a $50usd voucher.
I think that'll push me over to getting this board. I spend enough on Steam that this is effectively a price reduction.
Wanted something familiar to half watch so I put on the first episode. I forgot how much stuff happens in just the first episode. Hell of a pilot episode.
Whatever is driving PCIE5 has got to be in the server space. For all we know it's an AI breakout scenario where Google Deepmind needs the extra board bandwidth to begin manipulating matter at the subatomic level and paperclip us all.
yeah, in the consumer space we're really at the point where storage speed is fast enough. Even under gaming workloads the difference between a 3.0 and a 4.0 drive are not going to be material.
and for GPU speeds, a 3090 can saturate PCIe 3.0 x16, but it still doesn't come close to the max bandwidth that PCIe 4.0x16 can hit.
But in the enterprise workloads, if you're dealing with huge datasets and a lot of data that needs to be accessed or moved around a lot, these speeds can actually matter.
Hey guys, can anyone recommend me an HDMI/USB switch box?
I want to switch my dual monitor setup between my work laptop and my home pc, but most of the switchers I find online only seem to do variations on multiple inputs/1 output. I'm looking for 2 HDMI in, 2 HDMI out, with accompanying USB ports. Nothing too fancy, just something that lets me easily switch computer video output and accessories easily and with minimal performance loss. Thanks!
Hey guys, can anyone recommend me an HDMI/USB switch box?
I want to switch my dual monitor setup between my work laptop and my home pc, but most of the switchers I find online only seem to do variations on multiple inputs/1 output. I'm looking for 2 HDMI in, 2 HDMI out, with accompanying USB ports. Nothing too fancy, just something that lets me easily switch computer video output and accessories easily and with minimal performance loss. Thanks!
When I was looking for something similar I ended up just going with a USB hub since the only real difference between the hub and the KVM is that I'm saving hundreds of dollars in exchange for using the buttons on my monitors to change what input their showing.
Good luck. Once upon a time I tried finding a good KVM switch with HDMI and USB. Every single one I looked at had complaints about peripheral shenanigans when they switched. Or complaints about their high performance gaming mouse having a gimped refresh rate. Or unacceptable delays for the OS to pick the devices back up when they switched. Or the HDMI handshake failing. Or the HDMI resolution/refresh rate not being supported properly. And on and on and on.
I'd probably just steer clear of Amazon completely for this, since you'll likely encounter nothing but the cheapest, does the bare minimum, Chinese garbage. Dozens of seemingly identical boxes all branded slightly differently, with hundreds of fake 5 star reviews, and just as many legitimate 1 star reviews because the things didn't work and/or broke immediately.
Lately even trying to research what a good piece of kit is has been hard, because you search for "Best KVM switch" and you get these algorithmically generated lists that just tabulate, you guessed it, the best sellers on Amazon.
It's not all bad news. I did eventually find a good enough 2 port PS/2, VGA KVM for my retro setup from TRENDnet. If there HDMI/USB KVM is as good, I'd say it's worth a shot. Although it does seem to have some negative reviews on Amazon relating to HDMI handshake issues and being powered entirely over USB not keeping up. I suppose you can always return it if it doesn't work for your needs.
hrm, seems I'm going to have to send my new machine back to Maingear. Today my video card just stopped outputting anything. Nothing special, just had Firefox and Discord open in Windows, and then boom no signal. Tried unplugging the cable from the card and the TV then re-plugging, no dice. Booted up my PS4, made sure the cable worked, then moved it over to the PC, no dice. Tried moving the cable that worked over to my work Dell monitors, no dice. Tried the DP ports on the 3080 with my DP cable from my work Dell monitor, no dice. Tried unplugging the power cable to the card and unplugging the card itself and re-seatting, no dice.
I have Argus temp monitor and temps were in the 28C range I believe. The fans on the card weren't even spinning due since it was just Windows, so I'd have to imagine the temp was accurate. Sucks, I just finished playing Control and everything was fine. I got the machine right around Christmas.
Normally I'd just have them send me a new card, but while working on unplugging the 3080, I noticed the Coolermaster AIO pump was making clicking noises and vibrating. I couldn't hear it when the case was closed up over the normal fan noise, but once in the machine it was quite audible. Putting my finger on the pump dampened the noise a bit. Replacing the AIO is more than I want to do in my tiny apartment. If I had my old house, clear of cat hair and plenty of table space, I'd have given it a shot.
Sucks, the whole point of paying double what it would have cost me to build was supposed to be better build quality and not having issues like this. But then, it's not Maingears fault if a Founders 3080 dies or the coolmaster AIO is a lemon.
Is there anything I might not be thinking of to check? We reset the CMOS, but it didn't make a difference. The motherboard is a ASUS crosshair viii hero and has boot codes, which told us it was booting just fine. Kind of wish motherboards had the old VGA or some video output to test against. Though I have a 1070 I could try, that doesn't fix the AIO issue.
I might just be jaded but there's always hopes and dreams of such kinds of system design in PvP MMOs and it never seems to work out in practice.
I think it involves too much good faith interaction between players. For some reason devs think there wont be a bunch of people who only gain fun from causing someone else to be extremely miserable.
Quetzi on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
So there were 5 traces damaged further away from the chipset, and then 2 damaged right next to it. The very first thing that happened today was the two traces I got on last night came off, stuck to the soldering iron working on a 3rd trace. I just removed everything and started over from scratch. Worked my way from the inside out. Got a better method going with some masking tape to hold the wire mostly in place, and using the precision tweezers literally right next to the iron to hold things still while it made a good contact between the wire and trace.
I was so nervous turning it on for the first time my wife couldn't believe how much I was shaking.
Currently getting Win2K very slowly installed on it. Then drivers, 3DMark test, and maybe Return to Castle Wolfenstein or Quake 3. It currently has a Geforce 4600 in it.
Quetzi on
+32
Lichen Mossbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
I was looking at 3070s on Newegg today and the ti was like $950. Is it Newegg marking them up or is it the manufacturer marking up MSRP?
"Yes." I guess it depends on whether you're looking at reference or third party. I just look at best buy for comparison. The Nvidia card is $600 there, but the others go all the way up to $999.
Sounds like a B550 board? If so you should be fine putting an SSD in the PCIE4 M.2 slot. It’s controlled by the CPU rather than the motherboard chipset, but this is the entire point if the B550 chipset - to give you a PCIE4 M.2 slot and video card slot controlled by the CPU without needing a full PCIE4 X570 chipset.
I think you need a 5000 series Ryzen CPU though for PCIE4 to work in those slots, otherwise they’re PCIE3. I think.
my cpu newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-3700x/p/N82E16819113567 has 24 4.0 lanes.
my X570 board newegg.com/msi-mpg-x570-gaming-plus/p/N82E16813144262 needs 4 4.0 lanes.
my m.2 drive newegg.com/gigabyte-aorus-1tb/p/N82E16820009012 needs 4 4.0 lanes.
my gpu 3070 is on 16(x) lane 4.0 slot.
New question, is it ok if i just swamp the drive and it will boot fine?
Or do I have to go into bios and change the boot drive over to the new slot?
So there were 5 traces damaged further away from the chipset, and then 2 damaged right next to it. The very first thing that happened today was the two traces I got on last night came off, stuck to the soldering iron working on a 3rd trace. I just removed everything and started over from scratch. Worked my way from the inside out. Got a better method going with some masking tape to hold the wire mostly in place, and using the precision tweezers literally right next to the iron to hold things still while it made a good contact between the wire and trace.
I was so nervous turning it on for the first time my wife couldn't believe how much I was shaking.
Currently getting Win2K very slowly installed on it. Then drivers, 3DMark test, and maybe Return to Castle Wolfenstein or Quake 3. It currently has a Geforce 4600 in it.
You are a very clever boy who deserves a treat!
Seriously, I am hugely impressed. That was an amazing piece of work.
I threw an ancient 2GB sd card into the IDE to SD card adapter I use for retro builds. Makes imaging and restoring the drives a cakewalk. The adapter, not the specific sd card I used. It was so old, it took 2 hours to install Win2K on it last night. Then when I tried to just clone that installation over to a better card after it got to a good stopping point, the BIOS couldn't boot off the clone. Installing Plop Boot Manager to attempt to rescue the situation failed. Plop loaded just fine. But it still couldn't boot off the cloned volume. Oh well. Now I know not to do that again.
Starting from scratch this morning, the whole process took about 30 minutes to an hour. Everything seemed dandy. Then installing all the nForce drivers, specifically the GART driver, caused the screen to corrupt. I know the traces I repaired had to do with the graphics card, so perhaps the repair isn't 100%. But uninstalling that specific driver fixed things right up. There is also the fact that the chipset clearly had a fan fail at some point, so it could be slightly cooked. There is also the fact that when I got the card, most of major caps were leaking, including one by the chipset. So who knows!
The middle audio line-out on the mobo does not appear to work? But they are universal ports configurable in software, so I used the line-in port as a line out and my headphones work great. I have no idea if that was me, or a cap which is dead but visually fine, or what. But I've worked around it for now.
It complained that the DirectX 9.0c installation wasn't a valid windows executable. Return to Castle Wolfenstein ran fine, as did the DirectX 9.0b tests I ran. So I'm not sure that nforce GART driver was strictly necessary. I have a vague recollect at the time of people saying not to even bother installing nforce drivers because they hurt more than they helped? Was that ever a real thing?
I tried running 3DMark03, but it complained it couldn't initialized DX, presumably because it needs 9c. I installed the unofficial SP5.1 which I thought had DX9c included, but it didn't. Eventually found an old copy of the DX9c redist from Feb2010 that was compatible with Win2K. That got me past that error, but then it can't seem to properly install some Futuremark System Info dll. Probably a Win2K thing. So I gave up on that and installed 3DMark2001 instead. It runs just fine.
I'm going to consider this a resounding success. Going to give the board a good cleaning, then put some solder mask on the repair, and call it a job well done. Not bad for my first go. Feel a lot better about recapping that far more expensive and hard to come by Super Socket 7 board that means a lot more to me.
Any cpu fan cooler recommendations for my 3700x? (My funds are very low btw)
Would that $25 be quiet! PURE ROCK SLIM 2 work?
Saw a couple sources metion it having awful thermals. (but still better then stock cooler/cheapo brands)
Any cpu fan cooler recommendations for my 3700x? (My funds are very low btw)
Would that $25 be quiet! PURE ROCK SLIM 2 work?
Saw a couple sources metion it having awful thermals. (but still better then stock cooler/cheapo brands)
Do you have the stock cooler? I'm pretty sure the stock cooler for that chip was the Wraith Prism, which should be a decent cooler considering its only a 65W chip. I'd spend that money somewhere else, like for better memory.
But assuming you don't have the original cooler, that one looks like it would work. Might be a pain to install, and bad thermals could be anything from "I forgot to remove the plastic" or "I forgot the thermal paste" to a warped base on the cooler.
Quetzi on
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Any cpu fan cooler recommendations for my 3700x? (My funds are very low btw)
Would that $25 be quiet! PURE ROCK SLIM 2 work?
Saw a couple sources metion it having awful thermals. (but still better then stock cooler/cheapo brands)
Do you have the stock cooler? I'm pretty sure the stock cooler for that chip was the Wraith Prism, which should be a decent cooler considering its only a 65W chip. I'd spend that money somewhere else, like for better memory.
But assuming you don't have the original cooler, that one looks like it would work. Might be a pain to install, and bad thermals could be anything from "I forgot to remove the plastic" or "I forgot the thermal paste" to a warped base on the cooler.
I have to upgrade, because the limited fan options at cyberpowerpc yielded this:
Cooler Master A71C CPU Air Cooler
it has a very small contact, so like 30% of the cpu is actually not being cooled!
I'll order a be quiet or Noctua very very soon, that has a full contact, to save my cpu.
Generally everyone hates losing out on content too - so the solution is join the winning side. PVP generally isn't enough to provide content in a game, even though people who are obsessed with it seem to believe that it's all you need.
One solution is to provide some sort of underdog bonus if a faction falls behind. And more than that they should provide an equilibrium bonus.
If faction balance is within 3-5% of each other, that’s the sweet spot and everybody on both sides gets the best rewards while equilibrium is maintained.
So there were 5 traces damaged further away from the chipset, and then 2 damaged right next to it. The very first thing that happened today was the two traces I got on last night came off, stuck to the soldering iron working on a 3rd trace. I just removed everything and started over from scratch. Worked my way from the inside out. Got a better method going with some masking tape to hold the wire mostly in place, and using the precision tweezers literally right next to the iron to hold things still while it made a good contact between the wire and trace.
I was so nervous turning it on for the first time my wife couldn't believe how much I was shaking.
Currently getting Win2K very slowly installed on it. Then drivers, 3DMark test, and maybe Return to Castle Wolfenstein or Quake 3. It currently has a Geforce 4600 in it.
Hell, that is some impressive wire work there. Great job and I bet your wife can't close her eyes to get away from your beaming.
Update:
Swapped my nvme m.2 from chipset (3.0) slot to cpu (4.0) slot, and it booted fine.
Now to test if it is properly configured.... maybe through bios I guess.
(like if there is a toggle or something, yes all my components will yield the 4.0 speed, just unsure if it works out of the box)
Now to decide on what cpu cooler to buy and order. I never put on a cooler+paste before, and never removed a cooler+paste before, little worried with my shaking hands.
I feel like these ideas have all been tried before in various games, and either didn't work or their games failed for other reasons and took their good ideas with them
Quetzi on
+1
3cl1ps3I will build a labyrinth to house the cheeseRegistered Userregular
I feel like these ideas have all been tried before in various games, and either didn't work or their games failed for other reasons and took their good ideas with them
This is actually pretty likely. The dev team is made up of people who did dev stuff for other games. There are people who were working on Everquest Next that are working on this and there are a lot of ideas for Ashes that were shown off for Everquest Next.
Quetzi on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
I assume B550 will still run one drive at 4.0 if it can, direct link to the CPU, and the second drive at 3.0 to the chip set.
The trick turned out to be roughing up the wire with an exacto knife blade normal to it. Also ditching the precision tweezers that were recommended and going with a blunter instrument with a wider gripping surface. Also not holding them in the tweezers so much as just pressing them down into place. The wire was so prone to leaping off the trace because it wanted to curl, holding them down with the flat of the tweezers right next to the soldering iron kept them in place long enough to cool and bond. Also not spending too long on the second end after the first because the heat will conduct down and just release it from the solder on that end instead.
If this thing actually POSTs again after I'm done with it, I'm gonna be unbearable for a while. Way too proud of myself.
I might go back to my first choice and pay a bit more for the x570 MSI MEG Unify.
edit - MSI have a deal going in Australia where you get Steam vouchers buying products before November 15th. The x570 Unify comes with a $50usd voucher.
I think that'll push me over to getting this board. I spend enough on Steam that this is effectively a price reduction.
At least for gaming, PCIE 4 will likely remain the standard now for the foreseeable future for the sample fact that the PS5 and XSX use it.
and for GPU speeds, a 3090 can saturate PCIe 3.0 x16, but it still doesn't come close to the max bandwidth that PCIe 4.0x16 can hit.
But in the enterprise workloads, if you're dealing with huge datasets and a lot of data that needs to be accessed or moved around a lot, these speeds can actually matter.
I want to switch my dual monitor setup between my work laptop and my home pc, but most of the switchers I find online only seem to do variations on multiple inputs/1 output. I'm looking for 2 HDMI in, 2 HDMI out, with accompanying USB ports. Nothing too fancy, just something that lets me easily switch computer video output and accessories easily and with minimal performance loss. Thanks!
When I was looking for something similar I ended up just going with a USB hub since the only real difference between the hub and the KVM is that I'm saving hundreds of dollars in exchange for using the buttons on my monitors to change what input their showing.
I went with this, it was $10 cheaper in 2017 though.
I'd probably just steer clear of Amazon completely for this, since you'll likely encounter nothing but the cheapest, does the bare minimum, Chinese garbage. Dozens of seemingly identical boxes all branded slightly differently, with hundreds of fake 5 star reviews, and just as many legitimate 1 star reviews because the things didn't work and/or broke immediately.
Lately even trying to research what a good piece of kit is has been hard, because you search for "Best KVM switch" and you get these algorithmically generated lists that just tabulate, you guessed it, the best sellers on Amazon.
It's not all bad news. I did eventually find a good enough 2 port PS/2, VGA KVM for my retro setup from TRENDnet. If there HDMI/USB KVM is as good, I'd say it's worth a shot. Although it does seem to have some negative reviews on Amazon relating to HDMI handshake issues and being powered entirely over USB not keeping up. I suppose you can always return it if it doesn't work for your needs.
https://www.trendnet.com/products/4k-hdmi-kvm-switch/2-port-4k-hdmi-kvm-switch-TK-216i
I have Argus temp monitor and temps were in the 28C range I believe. The fans on the card weren't even spinning due since it was just Windows, so I'd have to imagine the temp was accurate. Sucks, I just finished playing Control and everything was fine. I got the machine right around Christmas.
Normally I'd just have them send me a new card, but while working on unplugging the 3080, I noticed the Coolermaster AIO pump was making clicking noises and vibrating. I couldn't hear it when the case was closed up over the normal fan noise, but once in the machine it was quite audible. Putting my finger on the pump dampened the noise a bit. Replacing the AIO is more than I want to do in my tiny apartment. If I had my old house, clear of cat hair and plenty of table space, I'd have given it a shot.
Sucks, the whole point of paying double what it would have cost me to build was supposed to be better build quality and not having issues like this. But then, it's not Maingears fault if a Founders 3080 dies or the coolmaster AIO is a lemon.
Is there anything I might not be thinking of to check? We reset the CMOS, but it didn't make a difference. The motherboard is a ASUS crosshair viii hero and has boot codes, which told us it was booting just fine. Kind of wish motherboards had the old VGA or some video output to test against. Though I have a 1070 I could try, that doesn't fix the AIO issue.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/p59674/does_my_pc_get_enough_sleep/
That still seems like a pretty solid increase, even if PCIE3 is fast enough.
Edit: Found this video, which I think makes your point far better.
Steam: pazython
I think it involves too much good faith interaction between players. For some reason devs think there wont be a bunch of people who only gain fun from causing someone else to be extremely miserable.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
After:
The results?
So there were 5 traces damaged further away from the chipset, and then 2 damaged right next to it. The very first thing that happened today was the two traces I got on last night came off, stuck to the soldering iron working on a 3rd trace. I just removed everything and started over from scratch. Worked my way from the inside out. Got a better method going with some masking tape to hold the wire mostly in place, and using the precision tweezers literally right next to the iron to hold things still while it made a good contact between the wire and trace.
I was so nervous turning it on for the first time my wife couldn't believe how much I was shaking.
Currently getting Win2K very slowly installed on it. Then drivers, 3DMark test, and maybe Return to Castle Wolfenstein or Quake 3. It currently has a Geforce 4600 in it.
"Yes." I guess it depends on whether you're looking at reference or third party. I just look at best buy for comparison. The Nvidia card is $600 there, but the others go all the way up to $999.
my cpu newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-3700x/p/N82E16819113567 has 24 4.0 lanes.
my X570 board newegg.com/msi-mpg-x570-gaming-plus/p/N82E16813144262 needs 4 4.0 lanes.
my m.2 drive newegg.com/gigabyte-aorus-1tb/p/N82E16820009012 needs 4 4.0 lanes.
my gpu 3070 is on 16(x) lane 4.0 slot.
New question, is it ok if i just swamp the drive and it will boot fine?
Or do I have to go into bios and change the boot drive over to the new slot?
You are a very clever boy who deserves a treat!
Seriously, I am hugely impressed. That was an amazing piece of work.
I threw an ancient 2GB sd card into the IDE to SD card adapter I use for retro builds. Makes imaging and restoring the drives a cakewalk. The adapter, not the specific sd card I used. It was so old, it took 2 hours to install Win2K on it last night. Then when I tried to just clone that installation over to a better card after it got to a good stopping point, the BIOS couldn't boot off the clone. Installing Plop Boot Manager to attempt to rescue the situation failed. Plop loaded just fine. But it still couldn't boot off the cloned volume. Oh well. Now I know not to do that again.
Starting from scratch this morning, the whole process took about 30 minutes to an hour. Everything seemed dandy. Then installing all the nForce drivers, specifically the GART driver, caused the screen to corrupt. I know the traces I repaired had to do with the graphics card, so perhaps the repair isn't 100%. But uninstalling that specific driver fixed things right up. There is also the fact that the chipset clearly had a fan fail at some point, so it could be slightly cooked. There is also the fact that when I got the card, most of major caps were leaking, including one by the chipset. So who knows!
The middle audio line-out on the mobo does not appear to work? But they are universal ports configurable in software, so I used the line-in port as a line out and my headphones work great. I have no idea if that was me, or a cap which is dead but visually fine, or what. But I've worked around it for now.
It complained that the DirectX 9.0c installation wasn't a valid windows executable. Return to Castle Wolfenstein ran fine, as did the DirectX 9.0b tests I ran. So I'm not sure that nforce GART driver was strictly necessary. I have a vague recollect at the time of people saying not to even bother installing nforce drivers because they hurt more than they helped? Was that ever a real thing?
I tried running 3DMark03, but it complained it couldn't initialized DX, presumably because it needs 9c. I installed the unofficial SP5.1 which I thought had DX9c included, but it didn't. Eventually found an old copy of the DX9c redist from Feb2010 that was compatible with Win2K. That got me past that error, but then it can't seem to properly install some Futuremark System Info dll. Probably a Win2K thing. So I gave up on that and installed 3DMark2001 instead. It runs just fine.
I'm going to consider this a resounding success. Going to give the board a good cleaning, then put some solder mask on the repair, and call it a job well done. Not bad for my first go. Feel a lot better about recapping that far more expensive and hard to come by Super Socket 7 board that means a lot more to me.
Would that $25 be quiet! PURE ROCK SLIM 2 work?
Saw a couple sources metion it having awful thermals. (but still better then stock cooler/cheapo brands)
Do you have the stock cooler? I'm pretty sure the stock cooler for that chip was the Wraith Prism, which should be a decent cooler considering its only a 65W chip. I'd spend that money somewhere else, like for better memory.
But assuming you don't have the original cooler, that one looks like it would work. Might be a pain to install, and bad thermals could be anything from "I forgot to remove the plastic" or "I forgot the thermal paste" to a warped base on the cooler.
I have to upgrade, because the limited fan options at cyberpowerpc yielded this:
Cooler Master A71C CPU Air Cooler
it has a very small contact, so like 30% of the cpu is actually not being cooled!
I'll order a be quiet or Noctua very very soon, that has a full contact, to save my cpu.
If faction balance is within 3-5% of each other, that’s the sweet spot and everybody on both sides gets the best rewards while equilibrium is maintained.
Now I once again have every LoZ amiibo!
until Nintendo makes 12 copies of whatever the next one will be!
Hell, that is some impressive wire work there. Great job and I bet your wife can't close her eyes to get away from your beaming.
Steam: betsuni7
Swapped my nvme m.2 from chipset (3.0) slot to cpu (4.0) slot, and it booted fine.
Now to test if it is properly configured.... maybe through bios I guess.
(like if there is a toggle or something, yes all my components will yield the 4.0 speed, just unsure if it works out of the box)
Now to decide on what cpu cooler to buy and order. I never put on a cooler+paste before, and never removed a cooler+paste before, little worried with my shaking hands.
Gigabyte looked at NZXT's dustup with GN and thought "hold my beer"
This is actually pretty likely. The dev team is made up of people who did dev stuff for other games. There are people who were working on Everquest Next that are working on this and there are a lot of ideas for Ashes that were shown off for Everquest Next.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.