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buying a suit
HalberdBlue
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I'm going to be buying a tailored suit some time in the next few days, not out of some dire need for one (though I don't own one) but because I'm in China and it's far cheaper to get a tailored suit here than it is in the US. Are there any things I should know? What color is appropriate? Does it depend on my skin and/or hair color? If so I'm white (though a bit darker than most since I'm 1/4 native american) with dark brown hair (though my hair is usually dyed blue or green or whatever). Are there any other things I should be worried about/ask for? I know nothing about suits. They won't speak much English but I'll be able to have a friend write stuff down translated for me. I'll also probably be getting a dress shirt to go with it - same deal with that. I know nothing. Hell, I don't even own a single collared shirt.
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Kyle
Now, where, exactly are you planning on wearing this suit? A job interview is going to call for a different suit, as is a a summer holiday, as is a wedding while, interestingly enough, a wedding suit, with a change in accessories and shirt, can also serve for a funeral.
If you're looking for an all around suit, well, then you're not going to look as sharp in any one thing (such is the nature of special tools verses general tools; same applies in this situation). I'd suggest something in a dark grey, not quite black (more for the funeral/wedding bit if you're looking into straight black, but the deep greys really lend closely to that theme, which is why I'm suggesting it as an all around); possibly with a pin stripe. I'm partial to double-breasted suits, as they seem to be coming in again, while the single breasted is being relegated to the sports coat design. Others will probably disagree, but that's their right.
As far as shirts, you can do a lot with a dark suit and the appropriate shirt. For interviews, the white shirt is the classic, often with a red or black (sometimes an alternating of the two) tie, while a cornflower blue, with a tasteful shade of yellow tie (perhaps a thicker paisley) sends a slightly more untraditional, while still professional, message to an employer. I know paisley may sound a bit out there in terms of present styles, but there have been many recent tasteful applications of the pattern.
If you're looking for something that would look best with the description or complexion type you've provided, I'd say you would want to look into a summer suit. Perhaps a light khaki, but, again, not an all-around investment, just something nice that may come in handy some day.
For my final piece of advice: bring along a female friend who knows about this sort of thing. Not only will she probably have a better eye, there's a good chance that her approval of whatever you purchase will go a long way towards your feeling confident in your new suit. And, I tend to think that confidence is the key ingredient to pulling off a tasteful suit, or most anything really.
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I'm sure there may well be someone saying this is the boring choice. And it is. But for your first and only suit imho you could do a lot worse.
Also, pay attention to the fabric. Since you are spending the money on a good suit, make sure you get a high quality fabric. The color and style of course depend on where you plan to use the suit.
Bring with you pictures of a suit that strikes your fancy. Your tailor should be able to match any design, be it the shape of pockets or collar.
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As far as what I'd wear it for, it's unlikely I'll be doing a job interview for a very long time. I won't be co-oping/interning, and I'll be doing research the rest of my summers in college, and then I plan on a PhD after college. I think the next interview I'd do would be for grad school, but I'm not sure grad schools even typically do interviews, and if they do it's over the phone I believe. So, interviews are probably at least 10 years down the road for me. Most likely the only things I'd wear it to are funerals, weddings, and formal things in my fraternity (which is just initiation and composite pictures, since we don't do formals or anything like that).
Also, Wheezer, I'm in Shanghai if you (or anybody else) knows anything about tailors around here. The market that everyone else on my program has been going to is the Shanghai Shi Liu Pu cloth market, but I'm open to other suggestions if you know of any.
This has some good tips.
I would recommend a dark charcoal fabric. Very versatile, works at a party and works at a funeral. Make sure you are getting a fabric weight suitable for where you live.
How tall are you? A three button suit is a classic style for someone on the tall side (6' +), otherwise stick with a two button suit.
Although others have recommended you make some ties as well, I'd say just buy a silk tie or two at the market - you don't need to tailor them unless you have something special in mind. Oh, and arrange a few fittings with the tailor if possible. My tailor fitted the cut fabric held together by pins, then later with loose seams and finally as the almost finished suit.
Depending on your size the tailor might make it a little too snug at first - not that you need too much space in a black suit, if you need to stretch you open the buttons. And I'd say go with three buttons in a single line, it's formal and you can wear it to many an occasion.
Female support is indispensible.
Unless you know a genuine dandy.
Don't trust any tailor unless you know at least a few of his customers. And don't trust them unless you've seen their suit.
From what you're saying about usage, however, you just need a suit to feel comfy in. Don't spend too much as you might totally dislike it, and only wear it when necessary.
On the other hand you might like how it makes you look; a good cut will greatly improve your posture. You might get addicted to it... and then more (better) suits will follow.
Bull, you don't need a female or "dandy" (WTF?) to buy a good suit. In fact, I think men know what looks good in a suit typically a bit better than a female. Use your judgement - simple is typically easier but it shouldn't stop you from getting something you like.
As an aside I bought my first pin stripe suit a few months ago and I feel completely awesome when I wear it.
Every man should have a plain, but stylish black suit.
On the fitting and quality front the lapels should not be glued together, you should be able to pinch the lapel and move the two sides independently by rubbing your fingers together. The trousers should be a length that rides up your ankle a little way when you sit down, so a bit shorter than you'd normally wear jeans.
As it's from a tailor don't be afraid to ask for things to be altered until you get it looking and feeling exactly right.
Single-breasted or double-breasted is a judgement call, but double-breasted usually looks like more coat (they are often used in formal uniforms, peacoats, trenchcoats, and other over-coats) so it tends to make you look more massive (IMO). A very fitted DB might work, but you'd need to be built like a lean model. Pinstripes are tricky, on most people I think a pinstriped DB suit makes you look like you think you're a gangster.
Make sure it fits, you should be able to do a medium to brisk walk without concern of binding. Get a lightweight fabric for more versatility (unless you're in a cold environment). Make sure there are 2-3+ inches in the backseams of the coat and pants so it can be let out if you gain weight. Having a satiny-silky fabric used as the liner is nice, and slacks only need to be lined down to a few inches past the knee (so when you're sitting you can still feel the liner over your knee).
Get a second matching pair of slacks. It will double the number of wears before dry-cleaning, unless you eat like a slob.
shirt + pants
shirt + pants + vest
shirt + pants + coat
shirt + pants + vest + coat
vest - shirt - pants
etc.
For the love of God, don't get a double breasted suit. Whoever said they were coming back in...don't listen to them. They look really eighties/1930s/40s gangster and double-breasted anything is flattering on no one. As a woman, I'd be grossed out by a guy in a double breasted suit. I'd go so far as to say they're a bit tacky.
However, a well-cut, well-tailored suit will make most of us women swoon.
Any more suggestions on tie color? They said it will be ready by Wednesday so I figure I'll pick up a tie or two while I'm there.
I got a suit made in Hong Kong a couple years ago, and it fits like a glove. Some gay coworker of my wife who was wearing a $3000 suit at a wedding said my looked amazing and asked how much it was. When I told him $400, the look on his face was worth every penny