There is a tournament this Saturday, so I'm trying to get this Infernal Tetrad painted so I can go. I won't get them all to 100%, but if I can hit 80% I'll be happy.
That being said, the Nurgle Prince is done for now. I'll revisit him later to pick out details like the maggots/worms, teeth, etc.
I think you've pulled of the Nurgle scheme in a much more interesting way than it is normally done. Props!
Here are photos from this year's Hussar (the mini painting contest held annually in Warsaw, Poland, with guests from all over Europe): https://www.facebook.com/pg/slawol/photos/?tab=album&album_id=336026576754799
I've had the pleasure of checking all the models out in person and I must say, photos don't do many of them justice. Some were simply ballshatteringly jawdropping.
Yeah I'm not even going to look at those, partly because I'm at work but mostly because it'll just be depressing.
On a different topic, does anyone have a good method for doing a fleshy, organic pink? I feel like all the GW colours are either too dark or too neon bright.
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Yeah I'm not even going to look at those, partly because I'm at work but mostly because it'll just be depressing.
On a different topic, does anyone have a good method for doing a fleshy, organic pink? I feel like all the GW colours are either too dark or too neon bright.
At the risk of seeming like I'm plugging my own work, I hit this query when doing the fleshy sacs feeding into my Tyrannofex's Acid Spray arm.
I based the area with Vallejo MC Black Red, then airbrushed Vallejo MC Brown Rose onto the most prominent areas. I followed that with a wash of Reikland Fleshshade. I then added glaze medium to VMC Brown Rose and glazed the most prominent areas back up to that rosy, fleshy pink, with added white into the glaze for the highlights.
Thanks for the tips. I've tried using a crimson wash over neutral colours but that came out a bit too strong - I'll try watering it down or maybe Reikland Fleshshade instead next.
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Sharp, how'd you do that skin tone? I need to know because I might dig back into some old and unfinished Slaanesh Daemon Princes.
Guys, top tip. If you've got lots of painting to do, don't do your back in. I've got a nasty sciatica flare up and sadly seem incapable of painting without hunching over in a manner that is entirely impossible at the moment. A real pity as I was really getting into a good painting groove with my current Malifaux obsession.
Pics as to where I was up to:
Poor half finished Lawyer, awaiting highlighting for weeks now and probably for a while yet to come.
+2
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Same goes for the neck. I was recently in a car accident and wound up with a pretty painful neck. Makes it hard to sit how I normally do to paint.
I'm thinking hot pink with black trim for the shoulder pad, but I'm not sure about the rest of the armour. A pink chest plate might be too much. Maybe I'll just do the shoulder pad first and see how it looks.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
So, a question: If you're separately painting things like wings/arms since they get in the way, and attach them afterward, what do you use as adhesive to not damage the paint? And how do you ensure a good bond with a layer of paint in between?
So, a question: If you're separately painting things like wings/arms since they get in the way, and attach them afterward, what do you use as adhesive to not damage the paint? And how do you ensure a good bond with a layer of paint in between?
I usually paint things fully assembled. This model I'm working on now has magnetized wings for transport since they are so big. The first two Princes I painted had smaller wings so they were attached first.
In general though; if you want to paint stuff separately you want to dry fit the parts first. Make sure it all lines up and there are no major gaps. After painting you'll want to scrape any paint off the area you apply your glue, this will ensure the two parts stick and not just paint sticking to paint. You'll want to be extra careful not to get any glue on the finished surfaces as glue can leave a frosty mark.
Note that this advice is for superglue. I never use plastic cement so I can't speak if it will work the same way. I assume it would, as it needs contact with plastic to work, but I'll leave this disclaimer anyway
In my (admittedly limited) experience it's way easier not to paint over the join in the first place. A blob of blu tack (or other putty-like material) over it while painting seems to work pretty well.
fray on
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
My Anvil Industry order arrived and man they make some excellent resin stuff.
+5
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Anvil has never failed to impress me in any capacity. I've been really interested in checking out their game but I just have waaaaay too much stuff on my plate at any given time.
How much does base color impact final color? For instance if I want to do purples would a black base coat make the color appear different than a white? Trying to determine if I should base my purple sections differently than the black spray I used.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Yeah, turns out having any medical problem hurts hobby rown. I have a herniated disc in my neck and hemorrhoids. I stopped trying to paint. I'm getting the urge again though.
How much does base color impact final color? For instance if I want to do purples would a black base coat make the color appear different than a white? Trying to determine if I should base my purple sections differently than the black spray I used.
The base colour will darken or lighten the colour you put over it. Darker base colour will darken the layer above, white will lighten. Generally you want to pick your primer colour depending on the overall tone of your final model. One of the reasons I prefer to prime grey is so I don't have to worry about it too much.
If you have to paint a light colour over a dark base colour you should paint and middle layer to help the tone and coverage.
Work on the Tzeentch Prince has started!
There is more depth to the skin than the picture shows, but I'll be shading it with blue next anyway.
Good to know for the wings on my hive tyrant I want a dark purple on the back and a lighter tone on the front so I was hoping a white vs black undercoat would help
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
So I've been experimenting with different ways of highlighting black because I don't really like the standard greys, and I've found a couple of options that I think work and that I could actually execute. Apologies for the crap pictures as usual.
Yellow armour with the darker blue highlights would also be an option. Any opinions/criticism/abuse appreciated.
Looking good, but that blue is begging for some shading. Hope you'll get back to him soon!
Speaking of WIPs, I'm working on my CSM using Evilcradt minis and I've got REALLY mixed feelings.
My initial reaction was that they have SO MUCH trim, the gold is dominating the colourscheme, which was supposed to be turquoise-yellow. But then I compared it to my previous guy and DAMN! The new guy makes him look like a toy - this is some really grim, baroque stuff now. And the turquoise-gold is really growing on me. BUT... all those trims are a real pain in the ass to paint. So I think I'm gonna do a bit of a mix. Anyway, photo!
Yeah. The pictures are a little flat but the blue needs more depth for sure. Just ran out of time and I'm not pushing late into the night for a one day tournament. There is a big one coming up in a month or two I want to bring these guys to, so they'll get attention again one day.
Getting things ready for tomorrow and took a few pictures of them all together:
Edit: Some rough individual pictures. I'll try to set up the light box and take some proper photos in a couple days.
So I've been experimenting with different ways of highlighting black because I don't really like the standard greys, and I've found a couple of options that I think work and that I could actually execute. Apologies for the crap pictures as usual.
Yellow armour with the darker blue highlights would also be an option. Any opinions/criticism/abuse appreciated.
@fray Red armor and light blue highlights. I think yellow looks goofy on minis (no offence to bad moon or imperial fists players), and I think the darker blue might be difficult to discern in poor lighting and/or from a distance.
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I think you've pulled of the Nurgle scheme in a much more interesting way than it is normally done. Props!
Here are photos from this year's Hussar (the mini painting contest held annually in Warsaw, Poland, with guests from all over Europe):
https://www.facebook.com/pg/slawol/photos/?tab=album&album_id=336026576754799
I've had the pleasure of checking all the models out in person and I must say, photos don't do many of them justice. Some were simply ballshatteringly jawdropping.
That Tzeentch banner alone makes me want to vomit from jealousy.
(everyone else vomits from jealousy, right?)
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Also, as awesome as that mini galley is, it does a real good job at showing how stupidly 'hurrhurr ladies have boobs' this hobby is.
On a different topic, does anyone have a good method for doing a fleshy, organic pink? I feel like all the GW colours are either too dark or too neon bright.
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
At the risk of seeming like I'm plugging my own work, I hit this query when doing the fleshy sacs feeding into my Tyrannofex's Acid Spray arm.
I based the area with Vallejo MC Black Red, then airbrushed Vallejo MC Brown Rose onto the most prominent areas. I followed that with a wash of Reikland Fleshshade. I then added glaze medium to VMC Brown Rose and glazed the most prominent areas back up to that rosy, fleshy pink, with added white into the glaze for the highlights.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
It still amazes me how many 3rd party companies are basically "what if 40k had tits on everything"
I think I may have said that before
Pics as to where I was up to:
Poor half finished Lawyer, awaiting highlighting for weeks now and probably for a while yet to come.
Those dudes look great, BTW.
I'm thinking hot pink with black trim for the shoulder pad, but I'm not sure about the rest of the armour. A pink chest plate might be too much. Maybe I'll just do the shoulder pad first and see how it looks.
I usually paint things fully assembled. This model I'm working on now has magnetized wings for transport since they are so big. The first two Princes I painted had smaller wings so they were attached first.
In general though; if you want to paint stuff separately you want to dry fit the parts first. Make sure it all lines up and there are no major gaps. After painting you'll want to scrape any paint off the area you apply your glue, this will ensure the two parts stick and not just paint sticking to paint. You'll want to be extra careful not to get any glue on the finished surfaces as glue can leave a frosty mark.
Note that this advice is for superglue. I never use plastic cement so I can't speak if it will work the same way. I assume it would, as it needs contact with plastic to work, but I'll leave this disclaimer anyway
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
There is some shine in the picture, the black isn't intended to look so glossy.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Gimme dem WIPs son
EDIT: Girlfriend got me a Badger Sotar for our anniversary!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
And a group shot of the first three.
Now onto Tzeentch! Only one more day before the Tournament!
The base colour will darken or lighten the colour you put over it. Darker base colour will darken the layer above, white will lighten. Generally you want to pick your primer colour depending on the overall tone of your final model. One of the reasons I prefer to prime grey is so I don't have to worry about it too much.
If you have to paint a light colour over a dark base colour you should paint and middle layer to help the tone and coverage.
Work on the Tzeentch Prince has started!
There is more depth to the skin than the picture shows, but I'll be shading it with blue next anyway.
edit:
I think I might make the blue armour white.
Yellow armour with the darker blue highlights would also be an option. Any opinions/criticism/abuse appreciated.
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
I'm not going to get the 4 princes based, but eventually I'll get them nice resin bases. Grey will have to do for tomorrow's tournament.
Speaking of WIPs, I'm working on my CSM using Evilcradt minis and I've got REALLY mixed feelings.
My initial reaction was that they have SO MUCH trim, the gold is dominating the colourscheme, which was supposed to be turquoise-yellow. But then I compared it to my previous guy and DAMN! The new guy makes him look like a toy - this is some really grim, baroque stuff now. And the turquoise-gold is really growing on me. BUT... all those trims are a real pain in the ass to paint. So I think I'm gonna do a bit of a mix. Anyway, photo!
Getting things ready for tomorrow and took a few pictures of them all together:
Edit: Some rough individual pictures. I'll try to set up the light box and take some proper photos in a couple days.
Thanks!
I built it for my Salamanders Army years ago and I've used it for every army since. I'm really due to build another one!
@fray Red armor and light blue highlights. I think yellow looks goofy on minis (no offence to bad moon or imperial fists players), and I think the darker blue might be difficult to discern in poor lighting and/or from a distance.