I was under the impression that all copies of the same character did the same thing.
Depends on the game. Mario Kart 8 only sees "Link". Smash Bros. can tell the difference between Toon Link and regular Link. So far, Breath of the Wild is confirmed to at least tell the difference Wind Waker Link, Ocarina Link, 8-bit Link, and Wolf Link (and I'm sure Archer and Horseback Links will have unique functions as well).
So far there's no official word of support for the Smash figs. Just the BotW amiibo, the Anniversary ones, and Midna/Wolf Link. Midna/Wolf Link has the best functionality anyway.
Quetzi on
Want to find me on a gaming service? I'm SwashbucklerXX everywhere.
I specifically bought a Shiek amiibo and a Princess Zelda amiibo so that I could level a 20 heart Wolf Link amiibo in TPHD. I hope the older amiibos have BotW functionality, but if they don't - I'll be OK.
I've got some squealing going on with my front rim brakes, and it's annoying, but having looked at the brakes themselves, there "teeth" are still pretty defined and it looks like I shouldn't have a problem with grip. However, the squealing is annoying, and it appears that I have uneven wearing, moreso on the front of the brake, which could have been intended originally as youtube tells me you want some toe-ing to eliminate squealing.
I'm a complete bike maintenance newbie, should I consider risking making the adjustments myself before I have time to go to a local bike maintenance class, or is it pretty hard to totally screw up brake adjustment?
First thing to do is to make sure there isn't any oil or grease on your rims, I usually use some denatured alcohol and a rag to wipe down the rim. If the assembler wasn't careful there might be a little on there. If the brake pads are really new they might need to be worn in a bit before they stop squealing.
Adjusting brakes can be a bit fiddly depending on what type you have (or a complete pain in the ass if you have old cantilevers). The manufacturer for your brakes should have a pretty detailed setup guide, and you could also check out park tool or sheldon brown for stuff about adjusting brakes. It is fairly difficult to mess things up permanently, just be wary of over torquing things or using an imperial hex wrench in a metric fastener. (almost all bike parts are metric)
Regarding toe in, I use a piece of folded paper as a shim on the back part of the pad between the rim and the pad while the pad is pressed up against the rim. That usually seems to be a good amount on my bikes.
Quetzi on
+2
IronKnuckleThis is also my faultRegistered Userregular
edited April 15
If you ever use chain degreaser you'll find out real quick that oil makes your brakes sing.
Ok, thanks for the info. I owe my chain a degrease anyways, so I'll take the time to clean my brakes.
My wife probably does need to have someone take a look at her bike, the chain always seemed to pop off to easily, so the bike store we went to installed this little "guide" that sits above and round the chain, but then the chain can still pop off and the presence of the guide makes it practically impossible to get the chain back on. I may have them work on that due to the complexity, but the other issue is when taking off her front wheel, often times the brake housing doesn't sit with even spacing between brake and rim. Like, the hole housing leans left or right as a part of taking the wheel on and off, and looking at a video from Park Tool, it seems like something I might be able to adjust.
Quetzi on
PSN: Kurahoshi1
0
IronKnuckleThis is also my faultRegistered Userregular
edited April 15
You can twist the brake calipers to align them. They very frequently twist when removing the wheel. After you have the wheel back on, stand over the caliper as you slowly engage the brake lever, and watch to see which side contacts the wheel first. You'll know it's properly aligned when the wheel does not move left or right with the brake fully engaged.
For the chain, sounds like the chain has stretched out of tolerance and has too much slack. If the chain is a few years old it's time for a new one. Have the shop check it out and do a once over on the other drivetrain components.
You can twist the brake calipers to align them. They very frequently twist when removing the wheel. After you have the wheel back on, stand over the caliper as you slowly engage the brake lever, and watch to see which side contacts the wheel first. You'll know it's properly aligned when the wheel does not move left or right with the brake fully engaged.
For the chain, sounds like the chain has stretched out of tolerance and has too much slack. If the chain is a few years old it's time for a new one. Have the shop check it out and do a once over on the other drivetrain components.
It had these problems within a month of buying the bike.
IronKnuckleThis is also my faultRegistered Userregular
edited April 15
I am! I'd very much like to do the entire local trail system, which is about 70 miles if you start at one end, go to the other, and return to your starting point. I'm on track to do that distance with little difficultly, aside from getting up early enough on a weekend morning to start.
Some days I dream about riding my favorite road in the state. It's an absolute blast in my car, but pedaling my way through seems like it'd be just as good.
I'm really looking forward to handing my bike over to a shop to replace a bunch of worn out components in the spring when the weather gets better. I bike commute year round which makes for some nasty wear and tear with all the wet and road grit/salt/sand.
IronKnuckleThis is also my faultRegistered Userregular
edited April 15
It's a really lovely route that I discovered when I tried to find more fun routes to take to my parents' house. (I have to drive about two hours to get to it.) Absolutely gorgeous, and I keep saying I live in the prettiest part in the state. Autumn is incredible, and year-round when you get to the top of that massive climb, you can see miles into the Arkansas River valley. The Air Force uses that particular area to do some mountain low-altitude exercises. I've been passed by F/A-18s on more than one occasion. Sometimes they're even below me...
I'd absolutely want to ride with you! This kind of ride on middle-of-nowhere rural roads would be much safer with another person.
So I did a 36mi ride yesterday morning at a work sponsored event. I learned 2 things from that experience:
1. My bike is awesome, even with the road bar on it, it's still a great ride, no matter what anyone says about the "geometry."
2. I hate hate HATE riding on public roads, especially two lane roads without a bike lane. People got close enough to me that I could have reached out and touched them if it wasn't for the fact that they were ripping by me at like 45mph.
Yep, there's a reason why my road bike is mostly used on my trainer these days...
If you're willing to give it another go, I'll pass along the best suggestion I've ever gotten in my road-riding career: strongly consider taking the lane. Be like a car/motorcycle/horse/tractor in that you don't give drivers enough room to brush by you: they either fully commit to entering to other lane to go around or they stay behind you. None of this "I can squeeze by" driver nonsense.
(I don't know if this is legal in your locality. Here in Virginia we are required to ride as far to the right "as safely practicable." Since we have a three-foot-clearance passing law, I broadly interpret that to allow me to ride a good third of the way into the lane when there isn't a safe shoulder with three feet of passing clearance. It works really well for us.)
I've done this plenty, didn't save me from getting hit by a car. While great advice in theory, personal safety does enter into it if you're in an area with lots of trucks/SUV's and few cyclists.
I've always wondered to what extent that tactic is fully or partially offset by increased driver irritation and anger. I haven't been able to find anything on that, because I'm sure it's really hard to measure.
It depends on the speeds and roads as well but I've found on 30mph town/city streets that you get as much room as you give yourself to a certain extent (there are always some geese that buck the trend). I find the more space I put between me and the kerb the more space drivers tend to leave between me and them almost irrespective of the actual road/lane width.
Or at least I found that. Having only managed 22 miles this year, and that on Jan 2nd, I'm not sure I'm actually a cyclist anymore :?
Decided that it's now biking season. 65km ride on Saturday, 80km ride on Sunday. Rainy and cold for both. Had to ride with numb feet for about an hour on the Saturday, corrected the next day by wearing two layers of booties.
Posts
Breath of the Wild, sorry. I know the classic Zelda figures do stuff.
Wii U NNID: MegaSpooky
Depends on the game. Mario Kart 8 only sees "Link". Smash Bros. can tell the difference between Toon Link and regular Link. So far, Breath of the Wild is confirmed to at least tell the difference Wind Waker Link, Ocarina Link, 8-bit Link, and Wolf Link (and I'm sure Archer and Horseback Links will have unique functions as well).
It doesn't look like it, these are the only amiibo compatible according to the official site:
http://www.zelda.com/breath-of-the-wild/amiibo/
Switch (JeffConser): SW-3353-5433-5137 Wii U: Skeldare - 3DS: 1848-1663-9345
PM Me if you add me!
I'm a complete bike maintenance newbie, should I consider risking making the adjustments myself before I have time to go to a local bike maintenance class, or is it pretty hard to totally screw up brake adjustment?
Adjusting brakes can be a bit fiddly depending on what type you have (or a complete pain in the ass if you have old cantilevers). The manufacturer for your brakes should have a pretty detailed setup guide, and you could also check out park tool or sheldon brown for stuff about adjusting brakes. It is fairly difficult to mess things up permanently, just be wary of over torquing things or using an imperial hex wrench in a metric fastener. (almost all bike parts are metric)
Regarding toe in, I use a piece of folded paper as a shim on the back part of the pad between the rim and the pad while the pad is pressed up against the rim. That usually seems to be a good amount on my bikes.
My wife probably does need to have someone take a look at her bike, the chain always seemed to pop off to easily, so the bike store we went to installed this little "guide" that sits above and round the chain, but then the chain can still pop off and the presence of the guide makes it practically impossible to get the chain back on. I may have them work on that due to the complexity, but the other issue is when taking off her front wheel, often times the brake housing doesn't sit with even spacing between brake and rim. Like, the hole housing leans left or right as a part of taking the wheel on and off, and looking at a video from Park Tool, it seems like something I might be able to adjust.
For the chain, sounds like the chain has stretched out of tolerance and has too much slack. If the chain is a few years old it's time for a new one. Have the shop check it out and do a once over on the other drivetrain components.
It had these problems within a month of buying the bike.
Which sucks, but hard to complain about that level of detail. Now if only they revised Marth to make him look non-derpy...
(Their guess is based on the fact that the product code follows the pattern of other Smash releases)
edit: shipping only btw
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/skylanders-superchargers-starter-pack-nintendo-wii-u/8421017.p?skuId=8421017
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/skylanders-superchargers-racing-starter-pack-nintendo-wii/8425013.p?skuId=8425013
Some days I dream about riding my favorite road in the state. It's an absolute blast in my car, but pedaling my way through seems like it'd be just as good.
PSN: Robo_Wizard1
I'd absolutely want to ride with you! This kind of ride on middle-of-nowhere rural roads would be much safer with another person.
Switch (JeffConser): SW-3353-5433-5137 Wii U: Skeldare - 3DS: 1848-1663-9345
PM Me if you add me!
Switch (JeffConser): SW-3353-5433-5137 Wii U: Skeldare - 3DS: 1848-1663-9345
PM Me if you add me!
Yep, there's a reason why my road bike is mostly used on my trainer these days...
I've done this plenty, didn't save me from getting hit by a car. While great advice in theory, personal safety does enter into it if you're in an area with lots of trucks/SUV's and few cyclists.
Or at least I found that. Having only managed 22 miles this year, and that on Jan 2nd, I'm not sure I'm actually a cyclist anymore :?
How can a show be this damn good? I fucking love it!
PSN: Robo_Wizard1
But I only went a few miles and at sausage gravy at the farmers market...
Don't feel bad. Beef Avenger covering 145 km (90 miles) in two days is approximately one hundred times more riding than I do.