Now that I'm a level 2 chainmailer, I'd like to create something actually interesting to look at, so I'm doing a bracelet in the rosette weave for my sister-in-law. Problem is, she's allergic to nickel, so that's most metals right out. I should be able to use titanium however. My problem is I don't know what to do for the clasp. While there are plenty of ways to attach one, most seem to be made from stainless steel or some other nickel-containing alloy. I'd also greatly prefer not to have to find a titanium clasp, since I'd like to engineer a single point of failure in case she's wearing the bracelet and it gets caught on something. Much better to lose some jewelry than a hand.
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
In terms of alloys, from what I know most Sterling silver is usually silver that's been mixed with copper.
On that note, copper might be a nice metal to fashion your bracelet of. It tends to age to a nice colour just from regular handling, it's very easy to clean and it's relatively easy to manipulate.
Both are fairly cheap to acquire in bulk, if you're making your own links (hardware store for copper, online jewellery supply stores for Sterling), though I can't speak of the prices for pre made links
Argentium Silver is silver with germanium and a little copper, pretty much guaranteed nickel free because Argentium Silver is a brand name for that specific alloy.
Brass, Pewter and Bronze won't have nickel.
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CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
Hey, you folks who know iron work, do you guys ever make balusters? Would you consider doing so?
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
And I'm curious how hard it would be to make a baluster w/ such a scroll on the bottom (leaf decoration not necessary, though if it's not too difficult to add some sort of leaf decoration I'd like that) and including a bar at the bottom for mounting. And perhaps a "reverse" baluster with the scroll at the top. The dimensions would have to be stretched to fill a 42" length since I know that the baluster on that lamp is only 23" tall. I don't think just extending the bar above the angle at the top would really look the way I want, I think it would be better to make the curve itself more gradual and long enough to fill a 42" space. It's also a very thick piece of iron but I'm not home to measure it.
I'm not sure it matters, but if I had such a scroll baluster I would orient it so that the scroll is visible when facing the staircase directly, similar to how most scroll balusters look:
An alternate orientation is to have a "bowed" stair grating but I don't like that look. Example of bowed balusters:
Edit: Also if it's not clear, I would gladly pay someone to make these for me, though I'd need to know an estimate of cost to make sure I can afford it.
Cambiata on
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
if you're looking for something similar to that first image you posted, it looks pretty doable. the leaf ornamentation looks to be a casting that was then riveted on and casting is a whole other kettle of fish, but aside from that the twisting and scrolling are all pretty standard. the only thing that might be difficult is the right angle bend at the top, which is a lot harder to do than it seems like it should be
if you're looking for something similar to that first image you posted, it looks pretty doable. the leaf ornamentation looks to be a casting that was then riveted on and casting is a whole other kettle of fish, but aside from that the twisting and scrolling are all pretty standard. the only thing that might be difficult is the right angle bend at the top, which is a lot harder to do than it seems like it should be
I'm not even sure it needs a right angle, though it does need to end up straight at the top for mounting (and have a straight mounting bar attached to the bottom)
Edit: Also I don't like the color on the example, I just want plain black.
I haven't measured the width but in order to fit in with standard sized balusters I'm going to say the iron bar should be 1/2". I don't know if heavier balusters would call for specialty supports that I'm not prepared to set up.
Cambiata on
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
it was supposed to be a fidget toy kinda thing that i could spin around on a finger, but it's too big for that so it ended up being practice making curves of different diameters look good together
Now that I'm a level 2 chainmailer, I'd like to create something actually interesting to look at, so I'm doing a bracelet in the rosette weave for my sister-in-law. Problem is, she's allergic to nickel, so that's most metals right out. I should be able to use titanium however. My problem is I don't know what to do for the clasp. While there are plenty of ways to attach one, most seem to be made from stainless steel or some other nickel-containing alloy. I'd also greatly prefer not to have to find a titanium clasp, since I'd like to engineer a single point of failure in case she's wearing the bracelet and it gets caught on something. Much better to lose some jewelry than a hand.
look into niobium!
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
Alright, been a bit since my last update. In that time, I've been busy. I also realized I'm going to have go about the dice locket in a slightly more roundabout, but ultimately better way. Basically, the copper I started with was far too thick (like, 18gauge) and the two pieces, even before further refinement of design, weighed in at nearly 19 grams. For something destined to hang around a neck, ostensibly from a chain that has its own metal weight, that seems like a bit much to me.
So instead, I'm shaping it to become the master for a hydraulic press mould, for use with slightly thinner copper. Shown is my general progress to that end, though the second photo is a few days and a lot of filing absent.
This is something I decided to do at the same time, mostly while waiting for the above pieces to finish in the pickle. Both started as attempts to make a double helix pendant, though with the first one, I made the middle bar too long and had an awkward loop bale in the center. So that got turned into potential earrings.
The second is my more successful attempt, and about as far as I got with it by Friday morning, before I had to go home to sleep.
And here is the final result of that double helix experiment. After I'd already soldered the second bar on, i realized it'd look way better if I flattened and twisted it first. As you can see with the third bar, I was right.
I think with this prototyping done, I'm going to do it again, but a little smaller and probably in silver. Although silver helixes with twisted copper crossbars might look good too.
Now that I'm a level 2 chainmailer, I'd like to create something actually interesting to look at, so I'm doing a bracelet in the rosette weave for my sister-in-law. Problem is, she's allergic to nickel, so that's most metals right out. I should be able to use titanium however. My problem is I don't know what to do for the clasp. While there are plenty of ways to attach one, most seem to be made from stainless steel or some other nickel-containing alloy. I'd also greatly prefer not to have to find a titanium clasp, since I'd like to engineer a single point of failure in case she's wearing the bracelet and it gets caught on something. Much better to lose some jewelry than a hand.
And I'm curious how hard it would be to make a baluster w/ such a scroll on the bottom (leaf decoration not necessary, though if it's not too difficult to add some sort of leaf decoration I'd like that) and including a bar at the bottom for mounting. And perhaps a "reverse" baluster with the scroll at the top. The dimensions would have to be stretched to fill a 42" length since I know that the baluster on that lamp is only 23" tall. I don't think just extending the bar above the angle at the top would really look the way I want, I think it would be better to make the curve itself more gradual and long enough to fill a 42" space. It's also a very thick piece of iron but I'm not home to measure it.
I'm not sure it matters, but if I had such a scroll baluster I would orient it so that the scroll is visible when facing the staircase directly, similar to how most scroll balusters look:
An alternate orientation is to have a "bowed" stair grating but I don't like that look. Example of bowed balusters:
Edit: Also if it's not clear, I would gladly pay someone to make these for me, though I'd need to know an estimate of cost to make sure I can afford it.
I highly recommend @Typhoid Manny for your custom metal work needs
And I'm curious how hard it would be to make a baluster w/ such a scroll on the bottom (leaf decoration not necessary, though if it's not too difficult to add some sort of leaf decoration I'd like that) and including a bar at the bottom for mounting. And perhaps a "reverse" baluster with the scroll at the top. The dimensions would have to be stretched to fill a 42" length since I know that the baluster on that lamp is only 23" tall. I don't think just extending the bar above the angle at the top would really look the way I want, I think it would be better to make the curve itself more gradual and long enough to fill a 42" space. It's also a very thick piece of iron but I'm not home to measure it.
I'm not sure it matters, but if I had such a scroll baluster I would orient it so that the scroll is visible when facing the staircase directly, similar to how most scroll balusters look:
An alternate orientation is to have a "bowed" stair grating but I don't like that look. Example of bowed balusters:
Edit: Also if it's not clear, I would gladly pay someone to make these for me, though I'd need to know an estimate of cost to make sure I can afford it.
I highly recommend Typhoid Manny for your custom metal work needs
Readington Metalworks makes a hell of a necklace
Heh, he already hit me up, we've been discussing it.
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
I'm thinking I'm going to need to start my big fluffy 'oh god the office is cold and i'm right under an a/c vent because my coworkers hate me' shawl soon.
I'm thinking of doing the Makariri shawl in some 8ply alpaca
Who has two thumbs and decided to test a temporary weld that was just the result of high heat, before applying solder?
This guy!
Well if you still have two thumbs, it couldn't have gone too horribly
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited February 2017
Well, I just got word from my teacher that she's decided to stop renting studio space to students, which is... Somewhat distressing, given I just got back into making stuff. I have till the end of the month, since I already paid for the month. The ability to come in for classfree session when she's having them (as well as classes) is still there, but that's not great given my own schedule.
Plus side: my folks are doing some major renovation work this year, so in a few months I'll have my own workspace to set up.
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited February 2017
Anyway, this is the thing I was working on last night. It's a reworking of that last thing I showed off, in near complete design. I just have a couple things to tighten up, but I think it's otherwise good to go.
(If you're curious, this is depicting the second try at that high heat temporary weld. One of the improvements in mind is attaching the bale before doing any bar twisting)
Anyone willing to give some advice on simple copper patinas?
I'm trying to do a red copper patina, and I found a very simple recipe online, that uses either salt or borax depending on the source. The problem is that every source on it seems to have their own take on how to do it right, and so far I haven't been able to get any of them to work on the scrap copper pieces I've used.
What I've been doing so far
1) Pickle and wash the copper
2) Apply mixture of either salt/water or borax/water to the metal
3) Heat metal to red with propane torch
4) quench immediately in hot, more watered down mix from before.
5) Check for color and repeat.
So far neither method has really turned out any piece where there were more than a few splotches of color even after repeating the process multiple times. I'm new to the process of patinas, so I'm not sure if there's just something not mentioned in the process because it's supposed to be common knowledge.
I tested it a bit more tonight and found that if you wait several (5-10) seconds before the first quench you get the nice color to it.
Some test pieces. The rectangles are copper foil, and the others are 20 gauge copper scrap. I think the fact that the foil turned out so much better means that I'm not getting the thicker pieces hot enough.
The patina side
it looks to me like the test pieces either weren't heated uniformly or you didn't quench them fast enough. try adding a drop or two of dish soap to the quench, it'll let the water come in closer contact with the metal and prevents a steam jacket from forming. some guys say you can actually harden mild steel by doing this, but i've never tried it myself
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
I did some experiments with red patina, myself, about a year ago. If I recall correctly, I got some of my best results from washing in borax flux and immediately quenching into the same. Like, holding the torch to it right up until I dropped it into the solution.
Now, keep in mind I might not be remembering exactly.
Also, what kind of torch are you using? The unevenness of the pattern reminds me of when I was using a handheld butane torch, which I will say is not sufficient.
I did some experiments with red patina, myself, about a year ago. If I recall correctly, I got some of my best results from washing in borax flux and immediately quenching into the same. Like, holding the torch to it right up until I dropped it into the solution.
Now, keep in mind I might not be remembering exactly.
Also, what kind of torch are you using? The unevenness of the pattern reminds me of when I was using a handheld butane torch, which I will say is not sufficient.
Plumbing propane torch, of the kind usually found on Walmart aisles. I can get access to an oxy propane torch, but what I think I really need is a better setup to hold the pieces. The color difference is radiating from where it was touching the tongs I was holding it with.
lay your workpiece down flat on a firebrick or in a bowl of gravel and heat it up. if you're holding it up, the tongs will act like a heat sink and it'll be really hard to get an even heat
Ravelry for patterns/inspiration
Crochet Geek on youtube for tutorials for stitches and swatches
BobWilson123 on youtube for tutorials for patterns
New Stitch a Day both website and youtube for stitch tutorials and swatches
Lion Brand Yarn website for patterns
***
No pics of the finished christmas shawl. Just didn't get around to it.
But did succeed at gifting both shawls to friends. One of the friends was in awe of the colours and the wool and tried it on and was just the proper level of gushing.
The other one just muttered 'thank you' and nothing else. Didn't even unfold the shawl to look at the lacework or anything.
So basically, fuck that person. two+ months of work, learning new skills, and spending good money on good wool and you can't even muster anything more than a half-hearted thanks?
Screw trying to do anything more personal from me. Gift cards and books from here on out.
Goddamn it hurts to be shunted to the side like that.
Some people understand handmade gifts. Others... don't.
I'm going to dig out my crochet hook and get practicing with it. I want to try to make a slime from dragon quest.
Anyone got good tips and resources for learning the basics of crochet since it's been a while since I last tried it?
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
So, been kinda bummed since finding out my teacher is ending the studio renting, and was watching a bunch of maker stuff on YouTube. Got to that recent Tested video of Adam Savage modding a wooden hero sword to look cooler, and I decided to use my remaining off hours time in the studio to try and make a silver hero sword.
Like, a tiny one, because I'm not rich or foolish.
Got the rough shape now, looking like it's going to be around 2 inches in length. While I am taking pictures, I think I'll hold off on showing them until I'm much further along.
It's pretty fun, so far.
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
@Uriel YouTube. Crochet geek is a good channel to start with. But you could teach yourself pretty easy with most YouTube channels nowadays.
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
depends entirely on the look you want. Sewing will get you something that is less dangerous if you're looking at a toy for a child. But if you wanted some actual eyes, then safety eyes are good.
Although safety eyes I'd recommend for a later time, and doing sewing for your first attempt. Usually you need to put the safety eyes on before you finish sewing up the project, which means if you get it into the wrong spot, you might have to unpick your work. Whereas if you do a sewn on face and you don't like the position of the eyes or something, you can just use a seam ripper, or just un-sew it.
Personally, I'd do a lighter coloured yarn if you're just getting back into things, I find it much easier to see the stitches and where my hook needs to go on a lighter yarn. A darker yarn, I need to have the lighting just right to be able to see.
Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
Of all the things to forget to transfer from my backpack tool kit to my toolbox setup, why did it have to be sandpaper? I had a good plan for using it, earlier, on my current project, but couldn't because I never packed it.
I don't actually use it much at work, as most of the material removal work I do can be accomplished with files.
This was vexing.
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited February 2017
I have been quiet, but I have not been idle. I've been making a tiny, silver and brass sword, partly because of something I saw Adam Savage do a couple weeks ago, but also as a learning piece. I'd say I'm about 2/3 to 3/4 done, and it is fun as hell.
Progress pictures in the spoiler.
What left is I'm going to make a little brass band to wrap around the base of the blade, above the guard, lots of soldering, and figuring out what kind of thread or fabric I should use for the hilt wrap. My mother suggested a heavy wax thread, but couldn't remember what it was called.
Edit: and I need to dig a slight groove down the center of both sides
Caulk Bite 6 on
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Metzger MeisterIt Gets Worsebefore it gets any better.Registered Userregular
Heeelp I'm trying to find specific painting and I can't. It's of two priests, one old and one young, and the painting is kind of dark and brooding and apparently represents the corruption in the Catholic church and I have no idea what to Google.
Posts
On that note, copper might be a nice metal to fashion your bracelet of. It tends to age to a nice colour just from regular handling, it's very easy to clean and it's relatively easy to manipulate.
Both are fairly cheap to acquire in bulk, if you're making your own links (hardware store for copper, online jewellery supply stores for Sterling), though I can't speak of the prices for pre made links
Brass, Pewter and Bronze won't have nickel.
hitting hot metal with hammers
https://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod2460596
And I'm curious how hard it would be to make a baluster w/ such a scroll on the bottom (leaf decoration not necessary, though if it's not too difficult to add some sort of leaf decoration I'd like that) and including a bar at the bottom for mounting. And perhaps a "reverse" baluster with the scroll at the top. The dimensions would have to be stretched to fill a 42" length since I know that the baluster on that lamp is only 23" tall. I don't think just extending the bar above the angle at the top would really look the way I want, I think it would be better to make the curve itself more gradual and long enough to fill a 42" space. It's also a very thick piece of iron but I'm not home to measure it.
I'm not sure it matters, but if I had such a scroll baluster I would orient it so that the scroll is visible when facing the staircase directly, similar to how most scroll balusters look:
An alternate orientation is to have a "bowed" stair grating but I don't like that look. Example of bowed balusters:
Edit: Also if it's not clear, I would gladly pay someone to make these for me, though I'd need to know an estimate of cost to make sure I can afford it.
hitting hot metal with hammers
I'm not even sure it needs a right angle, though it does need to end up straight at the top for mounting (and have a straight mounting bar attached to the bottom)
Edit: Also I don't like the color on the example, I just want plain black.
I haven't measured the width but in order to fit in with standard sized balusters I'm going to say the iron bar should be 1/2". I don't know if heavier balusters would call for specialty supports that I'm not prepared to set up.
it was supposed to be a fidget toy kinda thing that i could spin around on a finger, but it's too big for that so it ended up being practice making curves of different diameters look good together
hitting hot metal with hammers
So instead, I'm shaping it to become the master for a hydraulic press mould, for use with slightly thinner copper. Shown is my general progress to that end, though the second photo is a few days and a lot of filing absent.
This is something I decided to do at the same time, mostly while waiting for the above pieces to finish in the pickle. Both started as attempts to make a double helix pendant, though with the first one, I made the middle bar too long and had an awkward loop bale in the center. So that got turned into potential earrings.
The second is my more successful attempt, and about as far as I got with it by Friday morning, before I had to go home to sleep.
And here is the final result of that double helix experiment. After I'd already soldered the second bar on, i realized it'd look way better if I flattened and twisted it first. As you can see with the third bar, I was right.
I think with this prototyping done, I'm going to do it again, but a little smaller and probably in silver. Although silver helixes with twisted copper crossbars might look good too.
I did not know about this metal! Thanks!
I highly recommend @Typhoid Manny for your custom metal work needs
Readington Metalworks makes a hell of a necklace
Heh, he already hit me up, we've been discussing it.
Switch: SW-7603-3284-4227
My ACNH Wishlists | My ACNH Catalog
I'm thinking of doing the Makariri shawl in some 8ply alpaca
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
This guy!
Well if you still have two thumbs, it couldn't have gone too horribly
Plus side: my folks are doing some major renovation work this year, so in a few months I'll have my own workspace to set up.
(If you're curious, this is depicting the second try at that high heat temporary weld. One of the improvements in mind is attaching the bale before doing any bar twisting)
but then one of the ladies at the yarn shop was blocking this and omg (similar to the third pic, but pale lavender ish tones)
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dreambird-kal
One of my fave dyers was doing a class on it last weekend, complete with kits.
But I'm on a yarn ban at the moment. There's a big wool fest coming up in may that I'm saving up for. Going to get myself some yak & silk blend.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
I'm trying to do a red copper patina, and I found a very simple recipe online, that uses either salt or borax depending on the source. The problem is that every source on it seems to have their own take on how to do it right, and so far I haven't been able to get any of them to work on the scrap copper pieces I've used.
Here's the sources of two variants on the patina I've tried.
https://www.searlesart.com/copper-red-patina/2067/
http://sarahboodesigns.blogspot.com/2014/04/red-copper-oxide-patina.html?m=1
What I've been doing so far
1) Pickle and wash the copper
2) Apply mixture of either salt/water or borax/water to the metal
3) Heat metal to red with propane torch
4) quench immediately in hot, more watered down mix from before.
5) Check for color and repeat.
So far neither method has really turned out any piece where there were more than a few splotches of color even after repeating the process multiple times. I'm new to the process of patinas, so I'm not sure if there's just something not mentioned in the process because it's supposed to be common knowledge.
Some test pieces. The rectangles are copper foil, and the others are 20 gauge copper scrap. I think the fact that the foil turned out so much better means that I'm not getting the thicker pieces hot enough.
The patina side
The fireside
hitting hot metal with hammers
Now, keep in mind I might not be remembering exactly.
Also, what kind of torch are you using? The unevenness of the pattern reminds me of when I was using a handheld butane torch, which I will say is not sufficient.
Plumbing propane torch, of the kind usually found on Walmart aisles. I can get access to an oxy propane torch, but what I think I really need is a better setup to hold the pieces. The color difference is radiating from where it was touching the tongs I was holding it with.
hitting hot metal with hammers
Some people understand handmade gifts. Others... don't.
:bro:
I gasped audibly at that first picture. That is gorgeous.
Anyone got good tips and resources for learning the basics of crochet since it's been a while since I last tried it?
Like, a tiny one, because I'm not rich or foolish.
Got the rough shape now, looking like it's going to be around 2 inches in length. While I am taking pictures, I think I'll hold off on showing them until I'm much further along.
It's pretty fun, so far.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
Also it's all dark blue I'd rather a lighter blue for a slime toy. I already found a pattern.
How would I attach a face to something I crochet?
edit: There seem to be items called "safety eyes" that you basically pop on, too.
Switch: SW-7603-3284-4227
My ACNH Wishlists | My ACNH Catalog
Although safety eyes I'd recommend for a later time, and doing sewing for your first attempt. Usually you need to put the safety eyes on before you finish sewing up the project, which means if you get it into the wrong spot, you might have to unpick your work. Whereas if you do a sewn on face and you don't like the position of the eyes or something, you can just use a seam ripper, or just un-sew it.
Personally, I'd do a lighter coloured yarn if you're just getting back into things, I find it much easier to see the stitches and where my hook needs to go on a lighter yarn. A darker yarn, I need to have the lighting just right to be able to see.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
I don't actually use it much at work, as most of the material removal work I do can be accomplished with files.
This was vexing.
Progress pictures in the spoiler.
What left is I'm going to make a little brass band to wrap around the base of the blade, above the guard, lots of soldering, and figuring out what kind of thread or fabric I should use for the hilt wrap. My mother suggested a heavy wax thread, but couldn't remember what it was called.
Edit: and I need to dig a slight groove down the center of both sides