Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
Oh I know. I almost didn't post the pictures. That thing has been sitting on my desk 95% done for weeks.
Finished Shang. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Bought a cheapo $20 lightbox setup off Amazon, still trying to get the hang of it. So far I feel like my photos look worse when I use it
When painting highlights or freehand I always put both wrists on a flat stable surface like a desk to keep my nervous hands from ruining everything with their caffeine jig.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I use cooking wax paper. Just put it over everything, tuck the sides under the paper towels and bam: wet palle
Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
Oh I know. I almost didn't post the pictures. That thing has been sitting on my desk 95% done for weeks.
Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
Oh I know. I almost didn't post the pictures. That thing has been sitting on my desk 95% done for weeks.
I can't paint a straight line to save my life.
I feel you. That particular highlight on the sword is one I've had some frustrating experienes with.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
Oh I know. I almost didn't post the pictures. That thing has been sitting on my desk 95% done for weeks.
I can't paint a straight line to save my life.
I feel you. That particular highlight on the sword is one I've had some frustrating experienes with.
Yeah I can usually find a good way to brace my hands to paint lines fairly straight but there's always one side of swords that I just can't. This is especially bad on larger models and after having painted nothing but Infinity stuff for months a Primaris Lieutenant is huuuuuuge.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Oh hey, I'm way less famous than a bunch of you other guys. :P Hawk Wargames online gallery has been updated with a section for contest winners / runners up. That sabre I painted ages ago made it on there.
Frig I need to get back to painting with any regularity at all ...
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I feel like maybe I'm doing this gloss thing wrong? Should the wash be staining a glossed model? Or should I be easily be washing/cleaning the stain off while keeping the wash?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Finished the test paint on my retro-Admech. The silver dome isn't neary as glossy as I'd like... I might hit with another couple coats of varnish.
I'm also not sure if the guns should be the same enamel green, but I'm not sure what else I'd make it.
I feel like maybe I'm doing this gloss thing wrong? Should the wash be staining a glossed model? Or should I be easily be washing/cleaning the stain off while keeping the wash?
The wash should just bead off the raised areas and be getting spread through the recesses via capillary action. Even if it's actually an ink and not a wash it shouldn't be doing anything permanent unless the model is just getting dunked.
I feel like maybe I'm doing this gloss thing wrong? Should the wash be staining a glossed model? Or should I be easily be washing/cleaning the stain off while keeping the wash?
What are you washing with?
The paint a model gloss, then wash it, and wipe off the excess is a technique you do with oil washes over acrylic paint, typically, due to the very long dry time of oil based paints.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I'm using paint diluted with water (5-10 drops generally) I tried not to use too much wash but I didn't know if I was supposed to be wiping off excess or not.
This is how they came off (didn't end up using the gloss first on the leader with the staff, though that was accidental)
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Fun fact: A mix of P3's Jack Bone and Coal Black is identical to Forge World's Sons of Horus green but with waaaaay better coverage. I know firsthand as some of this dude's armor was based with the former and some with the latter.
Paint diluted with water isn't actually a wash. What makes a wash a wash is the compound added to break the surface tension and let it flow across a model instead of just sitting there in a big bubble of paint. Either put a tiny amount of soap in the paint or use something labeled as a wash.
@McGibs That skitarii conversion is almost identical to what I ended up doing for my guys. I used a heldrake leg for the fishbowls though, which ended up costing a lot more but had some tech bits on it.
Hey all! So I got the Bandai 1/48 scale X-Wing model and haven't started putting it together yet. Having no modeling/painting experience, I wanted to get some protips and advice before diving in.
I mean, I could just pop it all together and sticker it, but it seems like a waste to not at least try and give it some pop. Any thoughts or opinions on what direction I should go with? Remember, first time model person here, so no experience or equipment.
Need a voice actor? Hire me at bengrayVO.com
Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
Switch ID: MNC Dover SW-1154-3107-1051 Steam ID Twitch Page
Bandai kits in my experience are pretty detailed in their colors from the start, so you may avoid painting if you don't want to do it. You can use a hobby knife and a mold line remover to get rid of extre plastic from molding and from the stubs left by cutting out the pieces. From what I've read, most gunpla makers then spray the model with a matte clear coat like testors jut to remove the plastic shine - you will want to avoid getting the spray on any clear parts like the windows as it will frost them. I'm not sure how the stickers handle the spray, however.
Hey all! So I got the Bandai 1/48 scale X-Wing model and haven't started putting it together yet. Having no modeling/painting experience, I wanted to get some protips and advice before diving in.
I mean, I could just pop it all together and sticker it, but it seems like a waste to not at least try and give it some pop. Any thoughts or opinions on what direction I should go with? Remember, first time model person here, so no experience or equipment.
Basic paint job and go to town with the weathering!
I done the 1/72 version of this kit. It was amazing. You should be able to do it in sub assemblies pretty easily. They are on a whole other level to other scale models I've dealt with.
Primaris Librarian is slowly coming along. I am down to just a few details, including putting a name on his shoulder pad, and then transfers and basing.
+20
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So I finished my Posse, will probably touch up the bases of the last 3 with black but overall I'm pleased, it's still not 100% what I'd like for their hides, but it's pretty good. I'm not sure if the gloss helped or not, the ones I glossed before a wash were the two regular dudes with open mouths, the other 3 I didn't. I'm working on my Mist Speaker next, tried something slightly different with a bit of green in the wash, don't know if I like it.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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FairchildRabbit used short words that were easy to understand, like "Hello Pooh, how about Lunch ?"Registered Userregular
All sorts of great but somewhat over-priced miniatures stuff here. I just ordered a bunch of Movement Trays.
I love painted boardgame minis! Those are looking great. Not having played the game, what do the different colour sets mean? Are they per player, or divided into teams or something?
My helwright's been playing too much mechwarrior online.
The colors are just to know who is who. The game is coop and does have different roles but the orginal minis in the box all look the same. In one of the expansions you get minis that actually look like the pictures on the role card (medic, driver and so on).
(I bought said expansion today and should get it next week so 9 more minis to paint than I think).
| Zinnar on most things | Avatar by Blameless Cleric
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Thanks! They're turning out pretty well so far, though most of the dudes I've done haven't had a lot of details yet. Speaking of models with more details, I've been working on this Mist Speaker, haven't finished his weapons yet but I've done pretty much everything else. I tried doing purplish runes with a pink glow on the blade, results are sort of... mixed I feel.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So, I was gutted. Finished painting a Biocannon for the Hierodule and noticed that the elbow spine had snapped off at some point (compare the top one to the WIP bottom one)
After an internal rant I rummaged through my bits drawer (not a euphemism), found what I was looking for, clipped off the other elbow spine and attached these fuckers:
I've brush-primed them since; can't even tell they're not part of the original model. Result.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Sort of a weird complaint but I've never really liked forgeworld spikes, spines, claws, barbs, and all similar sorts of things. Their resin just doesn't hold well when it's a bumpy tapered point, and any spiny forgeworld models I used often in games have ended up losing half their bits over time.
Sort of a weird complaint but I've never really liked forgeworld spikes, spines, claws, barbs, and all similar sorts of things. Their resin just doesn't hold well when it's a bumpy tapered point, and any spiny forgeworld models I used often in games have ended up losing half their bits over time.
Yeah, resin being softer than the GW plastic means that all manner of protuberances are at risk of snapping. Thankfully FW are usually good eggs when it comes to replacing them.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The real downside of playing evil factions is all the spikes that inevitably snap off.
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I was tempted to pick up the forge world keeper of secrets to paint, but then I realised all of the BDSM spikey bits plus the fingernail razors are separate tiny resin bits and thought better of it, I'll keep hoping for a plastic one I guess.
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
I have over 400 miniatures to paint.
It's such an unending tide of plastic, that it's actually paralyzing to deal with.
It's such an unending tide of plastic, that it's actually paralyzing to deal with.
Hide all 400 of then in drawers and stuff (keeps them safe from dust) only bring out small, manageable chunks to focus on working on at a time.
It's silly but it helps.
At the very least, having them out of sight will also keep them out of min until you forget about them.
Then, in a year or two, you'll discover the army that you have waiting for you.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
It's such an unending tide of plastic, that it's actually paralyzing to deal with.
400?
...Lemme guess, Reaper Bones Kickstarters?
No, I own a games store and that's the total collection of our Warhammer 40k, Age of Sigmar, Hordes/Warmachine and now Infinity miniatures. I'm also wanting to paint my copies of Zombicide and Scythe as well.
Basically, I have an unending tide to paint and just absolutely zero time to do so in.
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Oh I know. I almost didn't post the pictures. That thing has been sitting on my desk 95% done for weeks.
I can't paint a straight line to save my life.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Get a brush with long bristles, like these:
I hate reddit with a passion, but this has come in handy a few times
I feel you. That particular highlight on the sword is one I've had some frustrating experienes with.
Yeah I can usually find a good way to brace my hands to paint lines fairly straight but there's always one side of swords that I just can't. This is especially bad on larger models and after having painted nothing but Infinity stuff for months a Primaris Lieutenant is huuuuuuge.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Hawk Wargames online gallery has been updated with a section for contest winners / runners up. That sabre I painted ages ago made it on there.
Frig I need to get back to painting with any regularity at all ...
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I'm also not sure if the guns should be the same enamel green, but I'm not sure what else I'd make it.
The wash should just bead off the raised areas and be getting spread through the recesses via capillary action. Even if it's actually an ink and not a wash it shouldn't be doing anything permanent unless the model is just getting dunked.
What are you washing with?
The paint a model gloss, then wash it, and wipe off the excess is a technique you do with oil washes over acrylic paint, typically, due to the very long dry time of oil based paints.
This is how they came off (didn't end up using the gloss first on the leader with the staff, though that was accidental)
Also oink oink, comrades!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
@McGibs That skitarii conversion is almost identical to what I ended up doing for my guys. I used a heldrake leg for the fishbowls though, which ended up costing a lot more but had some tech bits on it.
Resized that image and fixed your link for you.
Looking good!
I mean, I could just pop it all together and sticker it, but it seems like a waste to not at least try and give it some pop. Any thoughts or opinions on what direction I should go with? Remember, first time model person here, so no experience or equipment.
Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
Switch ID: MNC Dover SW-1154-3107-1051
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Basic paint job and go to town with the weathering!
I done the 1/72 version of this kit. It was amazing. You should be able to do it in sub assemblies pretty easily. They are on a whole other level to other scale models I've dealt with.
I posted it before
http://www.litko.net/
These are some of the 6 firefighter minis from the boardgame Flash Point: Fire Rescue.
After I shaded them I decided that I liked the dirty look and only brushed up on a few areas.
Also.. taking pictures of minis is hard!
My helwright's been playing too much mechwarrior online.
(I bought said expansion today and should get it next week so 9 more minis to paint than I think).
After an internal rant I rummaged through my bits drawer (not a euphemism), found what I was looking for, clipped off the other elbow spine and attached these fuckers:
I've brush-primed them since; can't even tell they're not part of the original model. Result.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Yeah, resin being softer than the GW plastic means that all manner of protuberances are at risk of snapping. Thankfully FW are usually good eggs when it comes to replacing them.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
It's such an unending tide of plastic, that it's actually paralyzing to deal with.
Hide all 400 of then in drawers and stuff (keeps them safe from dust) only bring out small, manageable chunks to focus on working on at a time.
It's silly but it helps.
At the very least, having them out of sight will also keep them out of min until you forget about them.
Then, in a year or two, you'll discover the army that you have waiting for you.
400?
...Lemme guess, Reaper Bones Kickstarters?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
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No, I own a games store and that's the total collection of our Warhammer 40k, Age of Sigmar, Hordes/Warmachine and now Infinity miniatures. I'm also wanting to paint my copies of Zombicide and Scythe as well.
Basically, I have an unending tide to paint and just absolutely zero time to do so in.