Apparently all Socket LGA 1155 motherboards have been removed from NewEgg. Anyone have a clue why?
Edit: It's because they found a defect in the SATA ports.
As part of ongoing quality assurance, Intel Corporation has discovered a design issue in a recently released support chip, the Intel 6 Series, code-named Cougar Point, and has implemented a silicon fix. In some cases, the Serial-ATA (SATA) ports within the chipsets may degrade over time, potentially impacting the performance or functionality of SATA-linked devices such as hard disk drives and DVD-drives. The chipset is utilized in PCs with Intel's latest Second Generation Intel Core processors, code-named Sandy Bridge. Intel has stopped shipment of the affected support chip from its factories. Intel has corrected the design issue, and has begun manufacturing a new version of the support chip which will resolve the issue. The Sandy Bridge microprocessor is unaffected and no other products are affected by this issue.
AfroJ on
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FishmanPut your goddamned hand in the goddamned Box of Pain.Registered Userregular
Can someone help me with my thinking here? I need a second opinion.
I had been planning on ordering up a sandy bridge i5 2500k desktop machine this weekend. I started doing price shopping and quotes from retailers yesterday (NZ based, so newegg helps fuckall).
Then the intel furore blew up.
But the thing is, near as I can tell, it wouldn't affect me at all. At most I'm planning on no more than one HDD and one SSD; they can use SATA ports 0 + 1; I'm planning on buying a NAS for network storage and RAID 1 backup for critical data later in the year, so extra storage and hard drives would be put on that. Additionally, I have a dedicated HTPC already that serves as my repository of photos, music and media, so the largest consumer of space on the PC is likely to be games. Those, I'm comfortable deleting and reinstalling as needed. I'm not putting a third HDD in this PC for at least a year (if ever). Yes, eventually I probably will need to upgrade, but I fully expect the first upgrade to be a graphics upgrade in about 2 years and I can always plan a new mobo around that.
Considering all this, it doesn't really sound like I fall into the group of users that needs to worry about the flaw and there's no reason not to go ahead and buy a sandy bridge PC.
The thing is, every man and their dog seems to be suggesting "don't buy", regardless of situation.
So what do you think? Am I crazy to buy? Or is my reasoning sound?
Your problem at this point isn't "should I build a 6-series based Sandy Bridge PC" but rather "Can I build that Sandy Bridge PC."
At this juncture, a whole lot of online retailers (Newegg for example) aren't even carrying boards that use the recalled chipsets. Assuming it'd take some time and effort to even find a potentially/eventually borked board, I'd say that the best investment of your time (not to mention your money) is waiting for the re-spun boards to hit.
Actually, the retailers I am dealing with are still willing to still sell me an item that would otherwise be a costly recall product and loss in sales for them. Go figure.
Can someone help me with my thinking here? I need a second opinion.
I had been planning on ordering up a sandy bridge i5 2500k desktop machine this weekend. I started doing price shopping and quotes from retailers yesterday (NZ based, so newegg helps fuckall).
Then the intel furore blew up.
But the thing is, near as I can tell, it wouldn't affect me at all. At most I'm planning on no more than one HDD and one SSD; they can use SATA ports 0 + 1; I'm planning on buying a NAS for network storage and RAID 1 backup for critical data later in the year, so extra storage and hard drives would be put on that. Additionally, I have a dedicated HTPC already that serves as my repository of photos, music and media, so the largest consumer of space on the PC is likely to be games. Those, I'm comfortable deleting and reinstalling as needed. I'm not putting a third HDD in this PC for at least a year (if ever). Yes, eventually I probably will need to upgrade, but I fully expect the first upgrade to be a graphics upgrade in about 2 years and I can always plan a new mobo around that.
Considering all this, it doesn't really sound like I fall into the group of users that needs to worry about the flaw and there's no reason not to go ahead and buy a sandy bridge PC.
The thing is, every man and their dog seems to be suggesting "don't buy", regardless of situation.
So what do you think? Am I crazy to buy? Or is my reasoning sound?
Your problem at this point isn't "should I build a 6-series based Sandy Bridge PC" but rather "Can I build that Sandy Bridge PC."
At this juncture, a whole lot of online retailers (Newegg for example) aren't even carrying boards that use the recalled chipsets. Assuming it'd take some time and effort to even find a potentially/eventually borked board, I'd say that the best investment of your time (not to mention your money) is waiting for the re-spun boards to hit.
Actually, the retailers I am dealing with are still willing to still sell me an item that would otherwise be a costly recall product and loss in sales for them. Go figure.
I could be biased (because I bought one of these boards the day before this was announced) but I don't think it's that big a deal. I'll plug my SSD and HDD into the working SATA ports, put DVD drives into the others, and since I rarely use discs for anything anymore, even if I've got one of the 10ish% buggy motherboards, it should last many years before it becomes a problem.
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
That looks pretty good. You could also go with something slightly less expensive in re: CPU and grab the 955 BE and take a mobo upgrade, maybe to something in the 890fx-ish area, for nicer boards and Crossfire support, but if you run an Nvidia card you may as well stick with the single-slotter, honestly.
I run an ATI 5770, but I've never really considered crossfire; I thought the price-performance wasn't really worth it?
Any reason I would want to go with the a different board if I don't plan to crossfire? As far as processors go, I'm slightly out of the loop on the AMD side. Everything I read online said that the 1090T was a beast, and I want to have a very powerful processor for what I'm starting to do with my computer [Livestream videogame playing and music production], and I'd like to be able to not touch the processor for at least two years and still be plenty fast. Is 4 GB enough RAM or should I upgrade it?
Using Crossfired (or SLIed) cards, at least at the lower end, is actually a pretty cost-effective performance solution. You can spread out the cost of the setup by buying the the 2nd card later if need be, and the performance gains are actually pretty impressive. For example, if you're running 2 5770s in Crossfire, you should expect performance that meets or exceeds a reference 5870. It's a pretty solid drop-in upgrade. I like one of thesetwo boards as solid values for Crossfire capability.
As far as AMD goes, the 1090T is one of their sexier CPUs at the moment. On Newegg it's actually $50 cheaper than you indicate it is from Best Buy, so bear that in mind.
And yes, 4GB is perfectly fine for RAM, I would say.
Hey, I'm building a PC (current is 2.1 dual, 3gb, 250gb, 7950GT). Here's what I have with some slightly overestimated prices (so I don't give myself a nasty surprise when I shop properly):
Mobo - Asus P7P55D-E LX - £100 CPU - i5-760 (2.8 quad, 8mb cache, socket 1156) - £170 GFX - Zotac GeForce GTX 460 1gb - £155 PSU - OCZ StealthXStream Power supply - 700 Watt - £70 (LambdaTek) RAM - Corsair XMS3 6GB : 3 x 2 GB - £50 HDD - WD Caviar Black 1TB - £65 Case - Lian Li Dragon Lord K58 - £60 BD drive - LG BH10LS30 Super Multi Blue - £65
Total £715
I already have Windows 7 HP, a sweet full HD monitor, sexy keyboard, good 5.1 speakers and an alright mouse. One key thing I think I'm missing is a wifi card (really awkward to ethernet up to the router the way my current abode is). Do people have opinions on these?
You might be able to tell by the build, but I'm wanting to play games on this (Civ 5 in dx11 would be nice...) and I'm leaving myself open to build up a Blu-ray collection, although I don't plan on getting Blu-ray films until they start getting cheaper. I'll also use this machine for web design work; so some big image work, but mostly non-intensive stuff. One thing I've considered is adding a 64gb SSD to install Windows and a few key bits of software on - does this work out good? Like, if most of my software is on the HDD, will Windows still integrate nicely with it? I'm nearing the maximum of my budget, but it's a soft maximum as it won't affect my lifestyle too badly and I'd like to get something that'll last.
The main reason I'm posting is because I really don't know a lot about this at all; I've spent the past few days doing intense research but there are still some holes. Do all those bits I have work together? Have you, dear reader, spotted any good deals recently for these chips? I'm in the UK so no Newegg for me Am I missing anything else key/noteworthy? Do I need to buy cables? Are these brands good? So many questions!
P.S. I'm really not into overclocking. Never tried it, not very interested.
That looks pretty good. You could also go with something slightly less expensive in re: CPU and grab the 955 BE and take a mobo upgrade, maybe to something in the 890fx-ish area, for nicer boards and Crossfire support, but if you run an Nvidia card you may as well stick with the single-slotter, honestly.
I run an ATI 5770, but I've never really considered crossfire; I thought the price-performance wasn't really worth it?
Any reason I would want to go with the a different board if I don't plan to crossfire? As far as processors go, I'm slightly out of the loop on the AMD side. Everything I read online said that the 1090T was a beast, and I want to have a very powerful processor for what I'm starting to do with my computer [Livestream videogame playing and music production], and I'd like to be able to not touch the processor for at least two years and still be plenty fast. Is 4 GB enough RAM or should I upgrade it?
Using Crossfired (or SLIed) cards, at least at the lower end, is actually a pretty cost-effective performance solution. You can spread out the cost of the setup by buying the the 2nd card later if need be, and the performance gains are actually pretty impressive. For example, if you're running 2 5770s in Crossfire, you should expect performance that meets or exceeds a reference 5870. It's a pretty solid drop-in upgrade. I like one of thesetwo boards as solid values for Crossfire capability.
As far as AMD goes, the 1090T is one of their sexier CPUs at the moment. On Newegg it's actually $50 cheaper than you indicate it is from Best Buy, so bear that in mind.
And yes, 4GB is perfectly fine for RAM, I would say.
Thanks for that link to newegg! I'm going to go through Best Buy though, because of my store credit and the fact that they honor manufacturer's warranty's instore (I was able to take in my graphics card that was getting artifacts and they gave me a store credit for what I paid ). I don't have any plans to Crossfire, though I do see the value in it as far as stepping-stone upgrades.
My only question now is do I pull the trigger on this AMD, or should I wait for whatever new chips they'll be releasing in Q2 of this year?
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FreiA French Prometheus UnboundDeadwoodRegistered Userregular
edited February 2011
the sandy bridge issue is blown out of proportion. if you don't use the 3gbs ports, you are completely fine... and that's not even taking into account the very low percentage of boards that will actually be faulty. with my setup, the 3gbs ports don't even get touched so I am in no way affected. it's also an extremely long term issue. Intel is handling this like fucking pros, like they should. it's retailers and some less than educated PC "enthusiasts" who are losing their shit.
big retailers are pulling products due to consumer panic and the RMA they'd have to go through. professional computer sites (like Puget) are approaching this situation intelligently, like it should be. just check out their blog post.
Yeah, they don't want anyone to be able to complain at all that this is anything like the ancient Pentium floating point issue.
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CrayonSleeps in the wrong bed.TejasRegistered Userregular
edited February 2011
Finally got my pc put together and all the bugs worked through. Aaaaaamazing. It's like I'm living in the future. It is an 1155 sandy bridge mobo, but seeing as how I'm just using the 2 6gb/s slots I won't worry too much, unless they determine it's a bigger problem than that.
Put the HTPC build together last night. I planned to take pictures, I took one of everything before I started, then realized when I was done that I didn't take any others. Got the OS and some basic programs on it, but I haven't thrown anything at it yet. Also forgot to order an HDMI cable so I have to wait for that to show up before I can plug this thing into the TV. This build seemed to go a lot faster and easier than my previous one.
I've finished building my PC, but want to test temperatures before I try anythingwith it. What's a good way to test that everything's working? Something for GPU as well.
In other news, the Silverstone Fortress is kinda ass. It's dead quiet, which is nice, but all these stupid things inside it. There's a special place to stick an SSD, except that if you put it there you can't plug a SATA cable into it. The top DVD drive didn't have enough room behind it for me to plug in SATA or power. The HDDs and DVD drives are so far apart that I needed to use two power cables, one for each, instead of just running one cable past both. There are a couple of cables in the front of the box that don't plug into anything. The USB, video, ethernet, and all that stuff is in the top of the box, which means that my video cables don't quite reach. There's meant to be a cover on the top of the case that covers those connections, except because HDMI and DVI cables are often thick and stiff, they stick straight up from the computer so I can't fit the cover on when anything's plugged into the video card. And the instructions were ass, ending with 'plug all cables in'. Any clue about which cables go where? Nope.
Just fire it up and then get some temperature monitor like Hardware Monitor or something. Then prime95 or something if you're really that worried to stress it. But I wouldn't really worry that much assuming you plugged the fans in etc.
Just fire it up and then get some temperature monitor like Hardware Monitor or something. Then prime95 or something if you're really that worried to stress it. But I wouldn't really worry that much assuming you plugged the fans in etc.
Well, I plugged most of the fans in, but on the BIOS screen one of the fans is red (I'm not sure why, because it's running), and there was nothing to plug into the 'power fan' spot, so the BIOS for that one is blank. Should I have plugged something into the power fan? It sounds sort of like a fan for the PSU or something, but that doesn't make sense.
Oh, wait, scratch that. That's for monitoring the PSU fan if it can do that. Which one is red?
One of the case fans, forget which one. It still says it's running at around 1000rpm, which is about as low as it goes (which is good, because I'd set them all to low), and it's not telling me why it's red. I think that it might be the fan that I plugged into the wrong type of plug: I had a three pin connection coming from the fan, but a four pin connection on the motherboard. Is it possible that the fan's working fine, but it's red because whatever the fourth pin on the motherboard is for, it's not being used?
Yeah, basically. The mobo wants to power a fan there, but your fan can just run off the PSU possibly. So it can't monitor it, but long as it's spinning it's fine.
First off, this is partly my mistake. I should not have let my dad - a guy who can't quite figure out what to do with those little blue words that are underlined - and who wanted to know if he needed a video card for skypeing - try to put a computer together on his own. However, he insisted, and since I am three hours away, I cannot help physically.
Now he has put it together, but isn't getting anything showing up on the screen. He says the disk drive and everything is whirring like it should, and the disk drive even ejects the tray and such, but I figure that isn't going to show a symptom of what the problem could be. I'm thinking he may have fried the mobo... but would the disk drive work in that case?
Anyway, my question is: what did my dad possibly do, or could it simply be that the monitor is not working?
Yeah, the drive will open as long as it's getting power, not much help there. Ask him if he bolted the motherboard directly to the metal case. And if he did tell him to start praying and get it off there. Other than that, more info required. Does he have all the cables in the right spots? Double check the manual and where all the PSU cables, data cables, etc are going.
I told him I-don't-know-how-many-times to read the manual, but he thought, "I'll skip the manual and just go how I always go without reading."
I even told him, I never read the manual with most things. My only exception is building computers. Does he read the manual? Nope.
Anyway: He'll try again tonight and let me know more then. I'll update later.
EDIT: He did not mount it directly to the board. Maybe the monitor is just faulty? I doubt it, it was a pretty good CRT back in the day, but there is definitely a chance.
:^: thanks, heading to best buy hopefully they've got it in stock.
bowen on
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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FishmanPut your goddamned hand in the goddamned Box of Pain.Registered Userregular
edited February 2011
Hey, so I'm buying a new computer.
Primarily for gaming, but I also want to spend some more time doing post processing on my DSLR photos. This is something that is absolutely painful on my current solution, but a new computer should ease some of the memory pains.
Now 4gig RAM is plenty for gaming, but image processing is listed as one of the few things that 8gig of RAM can really help with. Thing is, I don't know how much image processing I will be doing. I just know I want to be doing more. And I don't know how much bumping up to 8gig will help.
Primarily for gaming, but I also want to spend some more time doing post processing on my DSLR photos. This is something that is absolutely painful on my current solution, but a new computer should ease some of the memory pains.
Now 4gig RAM is plenty for gaming, but image processing is listed as one of the few things that 8gig of RAM can really help with. Thing is, I don't know how much image processing I will be doing. I just know I want to be doing more. And I don't know how much bumping up to 8gig will help.
Anyone able to shed insight into this conundrum?
At current DDR3 prices, even in NZ, you may as well just get that 8 gigs mate.
Intel Core i5 2500K Sandy Bridge 3.30GHz 6MB LGA1155
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3R Intel P67 DDR3 USB3+SATA3 LGA1155
Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3-1600 (8GB Kit)
Prolimatech Megahalems CPU Cooler w/ Fan
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200RPM SATA II
Sapphire ATi Radeon HD6850
Seasonic M12II Bronze 620W 80 Plus Power Supply
Samsung SH-B123A 12x Blu-Ray Combo Drive LightScribe
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64Bit OEM
Logitech Z523 Speaker System 2.1 with Subwoofer
I'll probably grab a new keyboard as well.
That's almost exactly the same as what I just bought, except I got a 6950.
Is anyone here familiar with Corsair Vengeance RAM? It says that it has aluminium heatsinks, but the top half of my RAM was kinda soft and rubbery. Is this a protective case for the heatsink that I should have removed? There was nothing in the box saying 'remove this', so I wasn't sure if I should leave it or not.
I told him I-don't-know-how-many-times to read the manual, but he thought, "I'll skip the manual and just go how I always go without reading."
I even told him, I never read the manual with most things. My only exception is building computers. Does he read the manual? Nope.
Anyway: He'll try again tonight and let me know more then. I'll update later.
EDIT: He did not mount it directly to the board. Maybe the monitor is just faulty? I doubt it, it was a pretty good CRT back in the day, but there is definitely a chance.
OK now he said it has been booting from the local disk for 15 minutes.
This is at least a step in the right direction. Right?
EDIT: Ok now he's not sure which disk needs to go in first, and I'm not either. Should he install mobo drivers first or throw in the windows CD?
Ah, I thought that was it but he is going driver crazy. I think he's going to figure it out, it definitely seems to be working or on the right path.
My next worry is that he (without telling me) did not get Windows 7 or Vista or even XP. No. He found his old Windows '98 disk to install that, then use his upgrade disk to XP. I told him to just get 7, but he just likes doing his own thing I guess.
Anyway, thanks for all the help guys, I think he'll figure it out.
So I might be getting a new job soon and I was looking at building a new system. Last year about this time I OCed my aging Q6600. It's served me well but the time is upon it. So I'm looking at processors. I want the i5-2600 (I couldn't find a difference between the non-k and the k versions).
Fuuuucccckkkkiiinnnggg RECALL.
BOOOOOOOOOOOO.
Amazon is still selling the processors and their mobos but NewEgg has pulled them. I read briefly that the fix might be done by April (fucking April!) but I hope it's sooner than that.
Besides the processor/mobo, this is what else I've got. I don't need a big data hard drive, I'm just going to transfer my old one over. Any critiques on this build? I think with the i5 and it's mobo, I can stay under a grand which right where I want to be.
Only thing that I'd change would be your PSU, honestly. (Not to say OCZ is bad, I'd just spring for something more efficient.)
I found two that are cheaper (lower wattage, as well, but you don't have any particularly demanding components), are 80plus Bronze. One is modular and has 2 12v rails, the other is not modular, but has a single 12v rail.
What I've read is that the difference between the non-k and k version is simply that the non-k version has added safety mechanisms that don't allow to do some crazy overclocking stuff, but that is all.
The non-k versions don't allow you to do ANY overclocking, really.
"You can set clock rates up to four speed bins above the highest Turbo Boost frequency setting available at any given level of processor activity.
So, take a Core i7-2600 as an example. The chip’s base clock is 3.3 GHz. With four cores active, it gets one bin worth of additional performance—3.4 GHz. Four bins above that would be 3.8 GHz. With two cores active, Turbo Boost bumps it up two bins, to 3.5 GHz. Limited overclocking makes 3.9 GHz available in that case. In a best-case scenario, only one core is active. Turbo Boost adds four bins of frequency, yielding 3.7 GHz, and Intel’s overclocking scheme lets you run at up to 4.1 GHz."
Posts
Edit: It's because they found a defect in the SATA ports.
Actually, the retailers I am dealing with are still willing to still sell me an item that would otherwise be a costly recall product and loss in sales for them. Go figure.
I could be biased (because I bought one of these boards the day before this was announced) but I don't think it's that big a deal. I'll plug my SSD and HDD into the working SATA ports, put DVD drives into the others, and since I rarely use discs for anything anymore, even if I've got one of the 10ish% buggy motherboards, it should last many years before it becomes a problem.
Using Crossfired (or SLIed) cards, at least at the lower end, is actually a pretty cost-effective performance solution. You can spread out the cost of the setup by buying the the 2nd card later if need be, and the performance gains are actually pretty impressive. For example, if you're running 2 5770s in Crossfire, you should expect performance that meets or exceeds a reference 5870. It's a pretty solid drop-in upgrade. I like one of these two boards as solid values for Crossfire capability.
As far as AMD goes, the 1090T is one of their sexier CPUs at the moment. On Newegg it's actually $50 cheaper than you indicate it is from Best Buy, so bear that in mind.
And yes, 4GB is perfectly fine for RAM, I would say.
Battle.net
Mobo - Asus P7P55D-E LX - £100
CPU - i5-760 (2.8 quad, 8mb cache, socket 1156) - £170
GFX - Zotac GeForce GTX 460 1gb - £155
PSU - OCZ StealthXStream Power supply - 700 Watt - £70 (LambdaTek)
RAM - Corsair XMS3 6GB : 3 x 2 GB - £50
HDD - WD Caviar Black 1TB - £65
Case - Lian Li Dragon Lord K58 - £60
BD drive - LG BH10LS30 Super Multi Blue - £65
Total £715
I already have Windows 7 HP, a sweet full HD monitor, sexy keyboard, good 5.1 speakers and an alright mouse. One key thing I think I'm missing is a wifi card (really awkward to ethernet up to the router the way my current abode is). Do people have opinions on these?
You might be able to tell by the build, but I'm wanting to play games on this (Civ 5 in dx11 would be nice...) and I'm leaving myself open to build up a Blu-ray collection, although I don't plan on getting Blu-ray films until they start getting cheaper. I'll also use this machine for web design work; so some big image work, but mostly non-intensive stuff. One thing I've considered is adding a 64gb SSD to install Windows and a few key bits of software on - does this work out good? Like, if most of my software is on the HDD, will Windows still integrate nicely with it? I'm nearing the maximum of my budget, but it's a soft maximum as it won't affect my lifestyle too badly and I'd like to get something that'll last.
The main reason I'm posting is because I really don't know a lot about this at all; I've spent the past few days doing intense research but there are still some holes. Do all those bits I have work together? Have you, dear reader, spotted any good deals recently for these chips? I'm in the UK so no Newegg for me
P.S. I'm really not into overclocking. Never tried it, not very interested.
Thanks for that link to newegg! I'm going to go through Best Buy though, because of my store credit and the fact that they honor manufacturer's warranty's instore (I was able to take in my graphics card that was getting artifacts and they gave me a store credit for what I paid
My only question now is do I pull the trigger on this AMD, or should I wait for whatever new chips they'll be releasing in Q2 of this year?
big retailers are pulling products due to consumer panic and the RMA they'd have to go through. professional computer sites (like Puget) are approaching this situation intelligently, like it should be. just check out their blog post.
PSN : Bolthorn
In other news, the Silverstone Fortress is kinda ass. It's dead quiet, which is nice, but all these stupid things inside it. There's a special place to stick an SSD, except that if you put it there you can't plug a SATA cable into it. The top DVD drive didn't have enough room behind it for me to plug in SATA or power. The HDDs and DVD drives are so far apart that I needed to use two power cables, one for each, instead of just running one cable past both. There are a couple of cables in the front of the box that don't plug into anything. The USB, video, ethernet, and all that stuff is in the top of the box, which means that my video cables don't quite reach. There's meant to be a cover on the top of the case that covers those connections, except because HDMI and DVI cables are often thick and stiff, they stick straight up from the computer so I can't fit the cover on when anything's plugged into the video card. And the instructions were ass, ending with 'plug all cables in'. Any clue about which cables go where? Nope.
Grumble grumble.
Well, I plugged most of the fans in, but on the BIOS screen one of the fans is red (I'm not sure why, because it's running), and there was nothing to plug into the 'power fan' spot, so the BIOS for that one is blank. Should I have plugged something into the power fan? It sounds sort of like a fan for the PSU or something, but that doesn't make sense.
One of the case fans, forget which one. It still says it's running at around 1000rpm, which is about as low as it goes (which is good, because I'd set them all to low), and it's not telling me why it's red. I think that it might be the fan that I plugged into the wrong type of plug: I had a three pin connection coming from the fan, but a four pin connection on the motherboard. Is it possible that the fan's working fine, but it's red because whatever the fourth pin on the motherboard is for, it's not being used?
First off, this is partly my mistake. I should not have let my dad - a guy who can't quite figure out what to do with those little blue words that are underlined - and who wanted to know if he needed a video card for skypeing - try to put a computer together on his own. However, he insisted, and since I am three hours away, I cannot help physically.
Now he has put it together, but isn't getting anything showing up on the screen. He says the disk drive and everything is whirring like it should, and the disk drive even ejects the tray and such, but I figure that isn't going to show a symptom of what the problem could be. I'm thinking he may have fried the mobo... but would the disk drive work in that case?
Anyway, my question is: what did my dad possibly do, or could it simply be that the monitor is not working?
Thanks.
I even told him, I never read the manual with most things. My only exception is building computers. Does he read the manual? Nope.
Anyway: He'll try again tonight and let me know more then. I'll update later.
EDIT: He did not mount it directly to the board. Maybe the monitor is just faulty? I doubt it, it was a pretty good CRT back in the day, but there is definitely a chance.
A 5770?
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2
Primarily for gaming, but I also want to spend some more time doing post processing on my DSLR photos. This is something that is absolutely painful on my current solution, but a new computer should ease some of the memory pains.
Now 4gig RAM is plenty for gaming, but image processing is listed as one of the few things that 8gig of RAM can really help with. Thing is, I don't know how much image processing I will be doing. I just know I want to be doing more. And I don't know how much bumping up to 8gig will help.
Anyone able to shed insight into this conundrum?
Hell if I know.
At current DDR3 prices, even in NZ, you may as well just get that 8 gigs mate.
My build, if anyone's interested:
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3R Intel P67 DDR3 USB3+SATA3 LGA1155
Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3-1600 (8GB Kit)
Prolimatech Megahalems CPU Cooler w/ Fan
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200RPM SATA II
Sapphire ATi Radeon HD6850
Seasonic M12II Bronze 620W 80 Plus Power Supply
Samsung SH-B123A 12x Blu-Ray Combo Drive LightScribe
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64Bit OEM
Logitech Z523 Speaker System 2.1 with Subwoofer
I'll probably grab a new keyboard as well.
That's almost exactly the same as what I just bought, except I got a 6950.
Is anyone here familiar with Corsair Vengeance RAM? It says that it has aluminium heatsinks, but the top half of my RAM was kinda soft and rubbery. Is this a protective case for the heatsink that I should have removed? There was nothing in the box saying 'remove this', so I wasn't sure if I should leave it or not.
Did you consider an SSD boot drive, Fishman? Not necessary, of course, but nice.
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2
OK now he said it has been booting from the local disk for 15 minutes.
This is at least a step in the right direction. Right?
EDIT: Ok now he's not sure which disk needs to go in first, and I'm not either. Should he install mobo drivers first or throw in the windows CD?
My next worry is that he (without telling me) did not get Windows 7 or Vista or even XP. No. He found his old Windows '98 disk to install that, then use his upgrade disk to XP. I told him to just get 7, but he just likes doing his own thing I guess.
Anyway, thanks for all the help guys, I think he'll figure it out.
That'd be awesome if he installed Windows 98.
Fuuuucccckkkkiiinnnggg RECALL.
BOOOOOOOOOOOO.
Amazon is still selling the processors and their mobos but NewEgg has pulled them. I read briefly that the fix might be done by April (fucking April!) but I hope it's sooner than that.
Besides the processor/mobo, this is what else I've got. I don't need a big data hard drive, I'm just going to transfer my old one over. Any critiques on this build? I think with the i5 and it's mobo, I can stay under a grand which right where I want to be.
I found two that are cheaper (lower wattage, as well, but you don't have any particularly demanding components), are 80plus Bronze. One is modular and has 2 12v rails, the other is not modular, but has a single 12v rail.
Modular Seasonic
Non-Modular
2500k
2500
scroll to bottom to see the difference
"You can set clock rates up to four speed bins above the highest Turbo Boost frequency setting available at any given level of processor activity.
So, take a Core i7-2600 as an example. The chip’s base clock is 3.3 GHz. With four cores active, it gets one bin worth of additional performance—3.4 GHz. Four bins above that would be 3.8 GHz. With two cores active, Turbo Boost bumps it up two bins, to 3.5 GHz. Limited overclocking makes 3.9 GHz available in that case. In a best-case scenario, only one core is active. Turbo Boost adds four bins of frequency, yielding 3.7 GHz, and Intel’s overclocking scheme lets you run at up to 4.1 GHz."
Source