What are you making? [Artsy farts and craftsy asses]

Typhoid Manny

today, i made a really dumb mistake!

we decided to melt down some scrap copper into ingots, so i got an old steel fire extinguisher that was kicking around the shop, lopped the bottom off with a portaband, and put it in the forge to heat it up

then the bottom melted out, and i got this



because the extinguisher can wasn't steel, it was aluminum

which i woulda known if i'd used a zip disk to cut it, because it wouldn't have thrown any sparks, but i shoulda known anyway because it was so light

Dedwrekka

Does aluminum outgas when it melts in a forge? I know respirators were always a requirement when welding aluminum, but I'm less sure if that's purely because of the welding process or just the process of the metal melting.

Typhoid Manny

i believe it does, but in the quantities anyone'd be melting in a homebuilt foundry it isn't really something to worry about

#pipe

I just discovered a knife maker called RU Titley and I love his style.

I also now really really want a knife just like this




So tiny and beautiful.

Darmak

Oh wow, that is really awesome

Cabezone

Dedwrekka wrote: »

Does aluminum outgas when it melts in a forge? I know respirators were always a requirement when welding aluminum, but I'm less sure if that's purely because of the welding process or just the process of the metal melting.

Generally not hazardous but who knows what kind of aluminum alloy is in an old fire extinguisher. Modern alloys should be safe. If you're welding/melting most alloys they do not put off hazardous fumes.

Typhoid Manny

i made a toilet paper hanger

Belruel

That's awesome! Now you have to forge all of your bathroom whatevers. Towel rack next, then tooth brush holder.

Darmak

Then forge your toothbrush

Typhoid Manny

way ahead of you

Darmak

:bigfrown:

knitdan

:winky:

Bluedude152

Need to make another one because its a bit sideways at the jaw

Caulk Bite 6

So, a recent project at the jewelery class involved something called "marriage of metals", basically joining at least two different metals in such a way that they look like they've always been together. My first attempt was pretty decent.


The other side is kind of garbage, but that's okay. The next thing I'm doing with it is blocking off the silver and some of the copper (good side only) with nail polish and setting it up to patina in a fume box while I work my 12 hour shift. Here's the before shot.



It's already in the fume box, and I'll be spraying it with an ammonia and pink salt solution about every hour, so it should come out interesting by the end of my shift.

Caulk Bite 6

Mid-way through the process update.

Dedwrekka

It might remove the patina, but one thing to keep in mind going forward with other projects is that you can take it up to a mirror finish by going from 1000 grit sandpaper, to grade #0000 steel wool, and finishing with a buffing of white rouge.

Caulk Bite 6

Sanding will definitely take away the patina, but that is an idea for future projects, prepatina (minus the buffing).

PassionateLovie

I cross stitched Dean Winchester from Supernatural for my friend for her birthday

Caulk Bite 6

One thing I've learned is that it's hard to predict how a patina will go. It's also hard to say where it will stay.





I'm debating whether to sand it down and try again, or to continue and finish it.

What sayest the Internet?

knitdan

I like the way the front turned out.

#pipe

Yeah man, the front looks awesome. If it were me, I'd paint the back or do something else to cover it up.

Darmak

I don't know, but you have some cool fingerprints

Caulk Bite 6

#pipe wrote: »

Yeah man, the front looks awesome. If it were me, I'd paint the back or do something else to cover it up.

Yeah, I think I'm going to try to lightly polish both sides a bit, but if that doesn't help the back at all, I might just paint it black and then seal the whole thing.

Darmak wrote: »

I don't know, but you have some cool fingerprints

I... Um.

Thank you?

Xaquin

Fun with stain!





I made a huge mess all over everywhere! Tomorrow, I will glue the fretboard down and glue the art work to the body. They are the last two steps before adding frets, adding clear poly, saying a prayer, and stringing it up!

Xaquin

I'm not sure of this counts as a double post since I'm asking a question (I hope not!)

Does anyone know if applying clear poly to this will work? The 'stain' that's on it is a mixture of 1 part acrylic paint to 3 parts water. Spread on with a foam brush and wiped off almost immediately with paper towels.

I'm not even sure I need to clear coat it!

I also can't seem to find a situation exactly like this online anywhere.

Will the clear poly cause any drag when playing? Meaning, will it act like a wax and make it harder to quickly move from fret to fret?

#pipe

I don't think Poly is the right choice, you're better off using a lacquer.

Here's a good write up using automotive lacquer

http://scotts-workshop.blogspot.ca/2010/12/how-to-get-perfect-guitar-finish.html

Xaquin

oh wow!

That is incredible but I think a bit more work that I'm ready for at this point. I really just want the neck to be smooth. The body is fine for what it is.

I will definitely bookmark that for future use when I get my outdoor shed up and running!

Thanks!

#pipe

I mean this dude is painting as his whole project and he's dedicated to getting showroom-shine

a clear coat will protect the instrument from moisture and wear, and also from the oils and acids coming out of your skin when you use it. The reason I suggested poly wasn't a great choice was because it drys thick and hard, I wouldn't be surprised if it totally destroyed the instruments acoustics. Sand it nice and smooth and give it a few coats of lacquer and you should be totally fine.

Xaquin

Thanks, will do!

I sanded it to 220 before I stained it. Now I'm kind of wishing I had gone smoother. But I guess it is a cigar box guitar anyway. I'm not exactly Les Paul.

Dedwrekka

You can also wax it down with carnauba wax on top of the clear coat. This will also fix any worries you might have with the finish causing drag.

Xaquin

oh god oh god oh god oh god oh god

there's glue everywhere! This isn't how it was supposed to be! The bottle says it sands off!

ohgodohgodohgodohgod



oh god

knitdan

Looks like you've got a sticky situation there.

#pipe

Glue is supposed to come out of the join when you clamp it.

If it didn't, you didn't use enough glue.

Use a rag to wipe the drips off while they're still wet, then the rest will sand out no problem.

Xaquin

#pipe wrote: »

Glue is supposed to come out of the join when you clamp it.

If it didn't, you didn't use enough glue.

Use a rag to wipe the drips off while they're still wet, then the rest will sand out no problem.

Thank goodness cause it did

Dedwrekka

I was sitting in storyboarding class the other night and my professor mildly complained about how people couldn't draw boxes that squared with the page even with a ruler. I suggested that I'd bring my t-square to class if it wasn't so large or my combination square if it wasn't so hefty. Then I considered why I hadn't seen any t-squares with a detachable top, or just as an attachment for any ruler. This is one of those situations where it's nice to have access to a 3D printer.




A small T-square attachment for any ruler. You just set one side flush with the side of the slot and tighten the screw, and you can remove it after you're done with it. Admittedly probably useless because there's some 50 different options for similar ideas, but it lets me play with my printer.

Xaquin

The glue does not sand off easily

I'm breaking out the 1/4" wood chisel =/

knitdan

Next time wipe it off with a damp rag while it's still moist.

Moist

Moist

Moist

Xaquin

knitdan wrote: »

Next time wipe it off with a damp rag while it's still moist.

Moist

Moist

Moist

That was the original plan, but someone put a bunch of clamps in the way!

JihadJesus

I've used q-tips before to get the area behind clamps I can't get with a rag.

Xaquin

Next time for sure