Woozl, you've nailed down the lightning on the armour! I don't know if it was you who posted attempts of the same some time ago, but if yes then this is a great improvement.
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited May 2016
I finished the Khorne half of the Age of Sigmar starter set. I didn't take pictures because I literally finished painting them minutes before I had to leave to do an Age of Sigmar event with them so I will have to take them later.
But having them done clears my plate for something new! (WIP)
I really hate the paint job on my current army. Most of it is layered on too thick, I fucked up a LOT of the edge highlighting, and the color isn't exactly what I want it to be.
Normally I would just think "reprime and start over", but like I said, in most cases the paint is...pretty thick. I'm not that great.
Which brings me to my question- what can I use to strip these guys? They are a mixture of GW plastic, Mantic plastics, and some resin bases+accessories.
I don't really want to have them fall apart either....
I was thinking Simple Green but I honestly don't know. Suggestions?
Soak em in simple green for a couple of days, then scrub with an old tooth brush. The paint will come right off.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited May 2016
Simple Green is love, Simple Green is life. I've never had a problem with it on plastics. It's almost too gentle, in fact, and depending on your primer you'll probably have to do some scrubbing to remove the worst of the paint.
If it really makes you nervous, you can always do the Simple Green baths for shorter durations to monitor its effect, and use some test pieces to make sure it's not damaging your models in a way you won't appreciate.
As for falling apart, you might not have a choice, depending on what you used to bond the parts together.
I finished the Khorne half of the Age of Sigmar starter set. I didn't take pictures because I literally finished painting them minutes before I had to leave to do an Age of Sigmar event with them so I will have to take them later.
But having them done clears my plate for something new! (WIP)
I see you are going for the classic comic book villain colour combination?
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited May 2016
Did someone say comic book villain?
All that guy needs is some explosives strapped to his hands, a Tzeench hover disk (they still have those in Warhammer, right?), and he's off to the races!
Nips on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Actually it was originally purple instead of magenta. It looked like a Constructicon.
There's a reason that is a common color scheme. Green, purple, and orange are equidistant from each other on the color wheel.
I wish there were more decals available for different Forgeworlds.
Right now its only Mars, Metallica and Ryza. Mars colour theme is just really ubiquitous, Metallica is probably a pain in the ass to paint for all the infantry and Ryza, I don't know, it's interesting but I'm not sure it looks good. Maybe I have to do a test with black armour plates instead of silver for more contrast with the ochre robes. What colour provides a nice ochre anyway?
The colourschemes are nice, I just actually like having decals/transfers available. Also I currently have some Guard tanks in a relatively dark paint scheme and weathering dark colours is just not as fun and easy as lighter colours.
Oh shit, yeah, you were talking about decals. Sorry.
You could probably make your own pretty easily though! A guy on a forum I frequent had no complaints about the quality of custom decals he ordered off the internet.
Simple Green is love, Simple Green is life. I've never had a problem with it on plastics. It's almost too gentle, in fact, and depending on your primer you'll probably have to do some scrubbing to remove the worst of the paint.
If it really makes you nervous, you can always do the Simple Green baths for shorter durations to monitor its effect, and use some test pieces to make sure it's not damaging your models in a way you won't appreciate.
As for falling apart, you might not have a choice, depending on what you used to bond the parts together.
Think that will also work on those soft Reaper Bones minis?
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Simple Green is love, Simple Green is life. I've never had a problem with it on plastics. It's almost too gentle, in fact, and depending on your primer you'll probably have to do some scrubbing to remove the worst of the paint.
If it really makes you nervous, you can always do the Simple Green baths for shorter durations to monitor its effect, and use some test pieces to make sure it's not damaging your models in a way you won't appreciate.
As for falling apart, you might not have a choice, depending on what you used to bond the parts together.
Think that will also work on those soft Reaper Bones minis?
I don't see why not. As the plastic is made from a polymer, it will be resistant to most chemicals. From the unofficial FAQ for Bones miniatures, on Reaper's forums:
What Works as a Paint Stripper
Soak figure in Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush.
Can you remove unwanted paint from a Bones figure?
Sometimes painting a figure doesn’t go exactly as planned. If you would like to strip the paint from a Bones figure so you can start from scratch to paint it another way, just drop it into a dish of Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush and it is ready to paint again. Some paint colours may leave a stain on the Bones material, but should not leave any texture or affect subsequent layers of paint. Simple Green in an eco-friendly cleaner sold in most hardware stores and some grocery stores. Brake fluid also works, though is a much more toxic material.
I've got a bunch of half-painted test Bones figures right now, and a couple bottles of Simple Green. I'll throw it all in a tub tonight to demonstrate.
I wish there were more decals available for different Forgeworlds.
Right now its only Mars, Metallica and Ryza. Mars colour theme is just really ubiquitous, Metallica is probably a pain in the ass to paint for all the infantry and Ryza, I don't know, it's interesting but I'm not sure it looks good. Maybe I have to do a test with black armour plates instead of silver for more contrast with the ochre robes. What colour provides a nice ochre anyway?
Check out Fallout Hobbies. They can even make custom ones if you provide the designs. My friends have had very good luck with them.
Trying to make some 1' square foam bases to make fancy terrain and then shuffle around for different set ups.
I'd like to end up with a "dry cracked clay" look in some places...how do?
Do you, in fact, have any builds in this shop at all?
so, several pages back I mentioned I was going to try and convert up a mk1 terminator. I eventually found what I reckoned would be a decent base in this guy:
I was going to pop some terminator lower legs and a power glove on him, flip the shoulders and build him up at the top and in a few other places with greenstuff. He has rather unexpectedly turned out be be made of lead though! What am I going to need to hew bits off him now (beyond incredible patience and a strong right arm)? Also is there anything I should bear in mind about using greenstuff or glue with lead minis? I haven't owned one in 20 years now
so, several pages back I mentioned I was going to try and convert up a mk1 terminator. I eventually found what I reckoned would be a decent base in this guy:
I was going to pop some terminator lower legs and a power glove on him, flip the shoulders and build him up at the top and in a few other places with greenstuff. He has rather unexpectedly turned out be be made of lead though! What am I going to need to hew bits off him now (beyond incredible patience and a strong right arm)? Also is there anything I should bear in mind about using greenstuff or glue with lead minis? I haven't owned one in 20 years now
For cutting metal minis either a jeweler's saw or a power tool with cutting bits are very helpful.
Green stuff doesn't care much about the material of the miniature.
For glueing metal parts either with each other or with other materials you need superglue (cyanacrylate) and I also recommend superglue activator.
For glueing plastic parts to each other you can use either superglue or plastic glue. the latter will provide a stronger bond as it actually melts the pieces together.
If you want the ability to take parts of again later (for example rebasing a plastic miniature) use superglue because parts glued together with plastic glue will probably rip apart somewhere else before the adhesive point comes apart.
also, @Woozl, those Night Lords look great. I've posted my efforts before, those are leagues better. I particularly like the flesh tone you used. Full space-vampire!
also, @Woozl, those Night Lords look great. I've posted my efforts before, those are leagues better. I particularly like the flesh tone you used. Full space-vampire!
thanks! Eshin gray as a base, reikland flesh wash, and then layer with eshin gray mixed with increasing amounts of pallid wych flesh until satisfied.
@manji I would seriously NOT recommend using a metal mini for conversions of such scale.
i'm considering my options with him. it'd sting a bit to have to buy another one in plastic, especially since they only come seem to come packs of five now. i may end up just using the head and torso and fitting full plastic legs and arms, then scratch make the shoulders. sawing bits off him is a wholly unappealing prospect.
Greenstuff mixes with super glue to form a cement. I've never had issues with pieces sticking since I started doing that. I've never pinned a model in my life.
As for cutting metal. Yep, get sawing.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Some WIPs. First up, and Ork who is essentially done. I just need to finish up the flesh (and finernails), highlight his left shoulderpad, and paint & glue on his breastplate:
And I have also decided that the remaining Sigmarines from the AoS starter will be Celestial Vindicators:
Posts
Here are some shots from my completed B@C set. Hope you enjoy. Yes I know most of these are slightly out of focus. Spoilered for size / quantity
88th Company Night Lords "The Unwanted Heirs"
Praetor and Judge
Terminators
Claws
Brother Alhrazz
Brother Vralkin
But having them done clears my plate for something new! (WIP)
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It might have been me. I've posted Night Lords that are much worse then yours.
I really hate the paint job on my current army. Most of it is layered on too thick, I fucked up a LOT of the edge highlighting, and the color isn't exactly what I want it to be.
Normally I would just think "reprime and start over", but like I said, in most cases the paint is...pretty thick. I'm not that great.
Which brings me to my question- what can I use to strip these guys? They are a mixture of GW plastic, Mantic plastics, and some resin bases+accessories.
I don't really want to have them fall apart either....
I was thinking Simple Green but I honestly don't know. Suggestions?
If it really makes you nervous, you can always do the Simple Green baths for shorter durations to monitor its effect, and use some test pieces to make sure it's not damaging your models in a way you won't appreciate.
As for falling apart, you might not have a choice, depending on what you used to bond the parts together.
I see you are going for the classic comic book villain colour combination?
All that guy needs is some explosives strapped to his hands, a Tzeench hover disk (they still have those in Warhammer, right?), and he's off to the races!
There's a reason that is a common color scheme. Green, purple, and orange are equidistant from each other on the color wheel.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Right now its only Mars, Metallica and Ryza. Mars colour theme is just really ubiquitous, Metallica is probably a pain in the ass to paint for all the infantry and Ryza, I don't know, it's interesting but I'm not sure it looks good. Maybe I have to do a test with black armour plates instead of silver for more contrast with the ochre robes. What colour provides a nice ochre anyway?
The colourschemes are nice, I just actually like having decals/transfers available. Also I currently have some Guard tanks in a relatively dark paint scheme and weathering dark colours is just not as fun and easy as lighter colours.
You could probably make your own pretty easily though! A guy on a forum I frequent had no complaints about the quality of custom decals he ordered off the internet.
Think that will also work on those soft Reaper Bones minis?
I don't see why not. As the plastic is made from a polymer, it will be resistant to most chemicals. From the unofficial FAQ for Bones miniatures, on Reaper's forums:
I've got a bunch of half-painted test Bones figures right now, and a couple bottles of Simple Green. I'll throw it all in a tub tonight to demonstrate.
Check out Fallout Hobbies. They can even make custom ones if you provide the designs. My friends have had very good luck with them.
False bannana plantation:
Bundles of Eucalyptus logs:
Thorn bush barricades (still experimenting with these):
Woven fencing from Rendera
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
I'd like to end up with a "dry cracked clay" look in some places...how do?
I was going to pop some terminator lower legs and a power glove on him, flip the shoulders and build him up at the top and in a few other places with greenstuff. He has rather unexpectedly turned out be be made of lead though! What am I going to need to hew bits off him now (beyond incredible patience and a strong right arm)? Also is there anything I should bear in mind about using greenstuff or glue with lead minis? I haven't owned one in 20 years now
For cutting metal minis either a jeweler's saw or a power tool with cutting bits are very helpful.
Green stuff doesn't care much about the material of the miniature.
For glueing metal parts either with each other or with other materials you need superglue (cyanacrylate) and I also recommend superglue activator.
For glueing plastic parts to each other you can use either superglue or plastic glue. the latter will provide a stronger bond as it actually melts the pieces together.
If you want the ability to take parts of again later (for example rebasing a plastic miniature) use superglue because parts glued together with plastic glue will probably rip apart somewhere else before the adhesive point comes apart.
damn you ebay!
also, @Woozl, those Night Lords look great. I've posted my efforts before, those are leagues better. I particularly like the flesh tone you used. Full space-vampire!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
thanks! Eshin gray as a base, reikland flesh wash, and then layer with eshin gray mixed with increasing amounts of pallid wych flesh until satisfied.
i'm considering my options with him. it'd sting a bit to have to buy another one in plastic, especially since they only come seem to come packs of five now. i may end up just using the head and torso and fitting full plastic legs and arms, then scratch make the shoulders. sawing bits off him is a wholly unappealing prospect.
As for cutting metal. Yep, get sawing.
And I have also decided that the remaining Sigmarines from the AoS starter will be Celestial Vindicators:
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I am sorry if it reduces wankability.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705