[Painting Miniatures] Step one put paint on miniature, Step two finished

Gabriel_Pitt

BreakfastPM wrote: »

I'm painting a hero forge mini for a friend and I thought you fellows would be interested in some more info about the quality.

There are definitely artifacts from the printing though they aren't too bad and can be sanded down.
They're pretty well detailed! Not GW quality but still great.
The base details, however, are very disappointing. Extremely shallow and easy to obliterate. I'd recommend just doing your own basing but I don't think that's a big problem for anyone here.

I didn't give the bases a try, but I was VERY satisfied with how my Heroforge minis turned out. There were some rough or textured spots, but it all looked good after painting.

BreakfastPM

I just posted the one I painted for a friend at the bottom of the last page. Yup on the rough textures, yup on the being very satisfied and fun to paint.

Dr_Keenbean

@McGibs Needs more blood.

Mr_Rose

WIP Word Bearers Contemptor (B@C pattern):


I'm worried the red is too bright… like maybe too close to 1k sons….
What do you all think?

Extreaminatus

Yeah, whwn i saw red and gold, I immediately thought of Thousand Sons.

I did mine by the book with ForgeWorld instructions, turned out just great. What red are you using?

Mr_Rose

The copper from vallejo's new metallic range, then VMC Transparent Red with a Blood for the Blood God glaze.

Extreaminatus

Oh lawd, that's why it's super duper red.

Try giving it wash with Carroburg Crimson, it'll bring down the shiny, new car red a whole bunch and make it look less like Thousand Sons or Blood Angels. Any reason for the gold trim?

TacoForce

Finally managed to get settled in my new place and got all my things unpacked. Decided to try working on some different skin tones. I'm pretty happy with how this is coming along so far.

Mayday

That is indeed a very nice, war skin tone. Props!
I can't get over how many artists, even the "high ranking" ones, go for weirdly greyish and unnatural skin tones, even when it doesn't make sense for a given mini.

Mr_Rose

I hit it with some Strong Tone:

Better?

Extreaminatus

Much!

Sharp101

That looks better!

As a fellow Word Bearers player - I would recommend you go over the gold trim with silver. Red and Gold looks a lot like Thousand Sons, while Red and Silver is more Word Bearers.

This is the best picture of my guys I have... I should take new photos one day...

Mr_Rose

Eh, the trim was going to get knocked down to a sort of grungy bronze anyway. When the shoulders get redone in black, the joints get done in gunmetal, and the script and other bobbins go on, it will be way more WB-ish.

Still, at least I accidentally discovered super-easy three step thousand sons red.

Dr_Keenbean

This guy surpassed my 'fuck it' threshold pretty quickly. He was far and away the best model I'd ever painted, technically speaking until I hit that point and it all went to shit.

Badablack

Just looking at all the details and fiddly bits and the need to highlight each part individually makes me dread painting my own AoS chaos lord. Anyone else get kind of exhausted by super detailed models and do something like a reaper bones model for a simple palate cleanser?

Dr_Keenbean

That model was really a pain. I'm glad I got it out of the way when I did. I don't think it would even be possible to paint it assembled which is why there's a huge seam on his left shoulder.

Though on the other hand, I spent hours painstakingly glazing and highlighting his flesh and his gorgeous red & back leg armor that you just can't see. I'm happy with how it turned out but you can pretty clearly see the spots where I just said 'fuck it I wan't this shit done'.

Mr_Rose

Based on Eddie Dreddy up there, some WB bodies ready for detailing:

Dr_Keenbean

That red looks better.

Why don't they have heads?

Mr_Rose

Because the heads are going to be painted separately, as are the guns.
Also, the change to the recipe was to airbrush on Strong Tone ink (neat, no mix-ins) to knock the red back. Trying a test piece with some BftBG glaze on top right now, just to see how that goes.

EDIT:

It's a bit glossy but that can be dealt with. Other than that, I like the red with the glaze better.

Kneel

Damnit, I'm painting slowly lately.

But then, there's twenty of the bastards so...

honovere

Games-Workshop put up an official Golden Daemon site. Still work in progress it seems.

https://golden-demon.com

Kneel

honovere wrote: »

Games-Workshop put up an official Golden Daemon site. Still work in progress it seems.

https://golden-demon.com

Yeah, half the time that stuff makes me throw up my hands and wonder why I bother.

Only half the time though.

Mr_Rose

The legion assembles…

Heffling

Picked up the Badger High Roller Trigger for my Sotar 20/20. It's amazing how much having access to better trigger control improved my air brushing. Thanks for the heads up, @Echo !

Mr_Rose

Heads? Heads:

Dr_Keenbean

Murderviking complete!

Kneel

Dr_Keenbean wrote: »

Murderviking complete!

Fugging beautiful.

Any chance I can pick your brain on your skin tones? I've got a mass of Chaos Renegades to get around to at some point but struggle with painting regular ol' human flesh.

honovere

Dr_Keenbean wrote: »

Murderviking complete!

How'd you do the blade? I really like how it looks. Is it just washes and drybrushing?

Dr_Keenbean

Kneel wrote: »

Any chance I can pick your brain on your skin tones? I've got a mass of Chaos Renegades to get around to at some point but struggle with painting regular ol' human flesh.

Strap in.

For this guy I started of with the basic GW method for Khorne Bloodbound guys:

1. Basecoat Rakarth Flesh (you can skip this if you prime white or light gray)
2. Basecoat Flayed One Flesh
3. Wash with thinned Reikland Fleshshade (I mixed in some glaze medium I think like 2:1 wash:medium)
4. Layer Flayed One Flesh (again I made this into a glaze and put on like 5 layers building up to the highlights)
5. Layer Pallid Wych Flesh (glazes again)

The scars on his face and back then got glazes of Carroburgh Crimson and Druchii Violet at about 1:1 wash:medium to make them look bruised and livid. I touched up some highlights with Pallid Wych Flesh.

You can't tell from the photo but I then went about added some deeper shadows to the skin (around the waistband, vambraces, etc.) with glazes of Druchii Violet & Reikland Fleshshade at about 2:1:1 wash:wash:medium. The effect is very subtle but looks great in person.

It seems like a lot but for a centerpiece miniature it really isn't. Plus it was so hard to fuck up that I felt like I was cheating.

honovere wrote:

How'd you do the blade? I really like how it looks. Is it just washes and drybrushing?

Actually it was done almost entirely with glazes. I would mix wash with a glaze medium at about 1:1 and applied about 12-15 layers getting smaller as it went down the blade. I started with Agrax Earthshade and gradually mixed in Nuln Oil. Then I glazed the tip with the same bright silver I used for the edge highlight. Then thin scratches to taste.

It was tedious (thankfully I had a hairdryer handy) because it has to be completely dry before you apply the next layer but it is super easy and looks great.

Nips

Okay airbrush bros, I need a bit of help.

I thoroughly clean my airbrush after every extended session, but have noticed recently that something in the trigger wasn't resetting when I let off pressure. Having completely disassembled the thing now and cleaned every possible part, the action still sticks, leaving the needle retracted despite letting off the trigger. I can work it a bit and it comes back to normal, but it then eventually starts sticking again later.

I suspect I need to lubricate something or another in the mechanisms here. What should I use?

Mr_Rose

Sounds like the seal between the paint cup and the trigger is gunked up. I'd put a bunch of alcohol into the cup (same amount as if I was going to paint with it) and let it soak for an hour or so. Then rub a q-tip around the back of the cup, towards the trigger and see what it picks up.

Heffling

Nips wrote: »

Okay airbrush bros, I need a bit of help.

I thoroughly clean my airbrush after every extended session, but have noticed recently that something in the trigger wasn't resetting when I let off pressure. Having completely disassembled the thing now and cleaned every possible part, the action still sticks, leaving the needle retracted despite letting off the trigger. I can work it a bit and it comes back to normal, but it then eventually starts sticking again later.

I suspect I need to lubricate something or another in the mechanisms here. What should I use?

I have this happen on my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I've found that running some simple green through without totally emptying the cup and letting it sit for a couple of hours before blowing out the rest will clean up any residual gunk.

Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Solution works as well.

Nips

Awesome! Thanks guys, I'll give that all a try.

-Loki-

Productive weekend - I got two models finished! Here's some terrible phone shots.

Tuco Ortega




Coppelius

Mayday

Anyone wants photos from this year's Golden Daemon?
http://volomir.com/index.php/2016/05/15/cabinet-photos-from-golden-demon-2016/

Kneel

This is why I'm glad I didn't enter my Knight.

Badablack

I was putting decals on a robot and apparently Micro Sol decal softener eats right through GW glazes. Luckily it looks good as weathering.

Mr_Rose

Varnish/seal it first. Makes a better surface for the decal too.

Dr_Keenbean

Mr_Rose wrote: »

Varnish/seal it first. Makes a better surface for the decal too.

Yes. Always always always put down gloss varnish (and let it cure for a good long time) before applying a decal to give it a completely smooth surface to adhere to.

Badablack

Yeah I've never really bothered with decals before and just slapped it on there with some softener without thinking how it would react to the paint underneath. In the future I'll definitely seal first, but for now it's a pretty easy way to put some weathering on a model.