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For Sale: 2017 [Car thread] - No Rust! New Clutch! Blown Turbo!

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    My 97 Civic has only one advantage:


    Ugh large image

    40.4 MPG


    So, the age old question is, do HIDs take less power? Are they more energy efficient?
    I ask because I notice the engine does bog down when all my lights are on, and I don't think it's legal to replace everything on the outside with LEDs yet.
    I want even betterer fuel economy dangit!

    If your 1997 Honda Civic engine bogs down when you have the lights on, there is something seriously wrong happening there.

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    pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    I saw that there's a LeMons race in this state now. Hnng.

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    L Ron HowardL Ron Howard The duck MinnesotaRegistered User regular
    I'd be buying the whole housing for it, if I were to do it. Amazon has them at ~$100. I'd think I could get a little bit better efficiency if I didn't have the power loss so much when the lights are on. I don't care about performance on it, yet, so I'm really just trying to be a little bit more efficient.

    I also found out the power steering is leaking a tiny bit today, and it doesn't sit level. I think I might have to upgrade the suspension. :)

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    I saw that there's a LeMons race in this state now. Hnng.

    Let's find a clapped-out MX-5 and enter it!

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    pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    I saw that there's a LeMons race in this state now. Hnng.

    Let's find a clapped-out MX-5 and enter it!

    I would really like to.. but it's $$$.

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

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    pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

    Yea.. if there were more events that the costs could be amortised over I'd be more enthusiastic, but it doesn't seem like there is.

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

    Yea.. if there were more events that the costs could be amortised over I'd be more enthusiastic, but it doesn't seem like there is.

    Wanna go halvsies on a 100cc go-kart instead?

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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
    I'd be buying the whole housing for it, if I were to do it. Amazon has them at ~$100.

    I'm very skeptical of cheap aftermarket headlights. Proper vehicle lighting is expensive for a reason: it takes a lot of engineering to create a light housing that will stand up to the elements, actually light up the road, meet DOT regs, and fit the vehicle well. The vast majority of aftermarket lights I've seen are trash with embarrassing quality control.

    Tldr buyer beware

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    pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

    Yea.. if there were more events that the costs could be amortised over I'd be more enthusiastic, but it doesn't seem like there is.

    Wanna go halvsies on a 100cc go-kart instead?

    ... I'm tempted.

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    pimento wrote: »
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

    Yea.. if there were more events that the costs could be amortised over I'd be more enthusiastic, but it doesn't seem like there is.

    Wanna go halvsies on a 100cc go-kart instead?

    ... I'm tempted.

    Actually, you have a welder, right?

    https://theedgeproducts.com/collections/the-barracuda

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    L Ron HowardL Ron Howard The duck MinnesotaRegistered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    I'd be buying the whole housing for it, if I were to do it. Amazon has them at ~$100.

    I'm very skeptical of cheap aftermarket headlights. Proper vehicle lighting is expensive for a reason: it takes a lot of engineering to create a light housing that will stand up to the elements, actually light up the road, meet DOT regs, and fit the vehicle well. The vast majority of aftermarket lights I've seen are trash with embarrassing quality control.

    Tldr buyer beware

    How do you know when one is good and of good quality? Or good enough quality, anyway?

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    pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    pimento wrote: »
    pimento wrote: »
    Yeah, I looked up all the regs and while the car has to cost less than $1000, you need to spend at least $4-5k fitting all the safety gear, then we need 5 drivers, each with full race outfits, boots, helmets etc.

    Yea.. if there were more events that the costs could be amortised over I'd be more enthusiastic, but it doesn't seem like there is.

    Wanna go halvsies on a 100cc go-kart instead?

    ... I'm tempted.

    Actually, you have a welder, right?

    https://theedgeproducts.com/collections/the-barracuda

    No, but where there's a will and sufficient motivation. I do at least know a guy who's done a lot more welding than I have.

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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    I'd be buying the whole housing for it, if I were to do it. Amazon has them at ~$100.

    I'm very skeptical of cheap aftermarket headlights. Proper vehicle lighting is expensive for a reason: it takes a lot of engineering to create a light housing that will stand up to the elements, actually light up the road, meet DOT regs, and fit the vehicle well. The vast majority of aftermarket lights I've seen are trash with embarrassing quality control.

    Tldr buyer beware

    How do you know when one is good and of good quality? Or good enough quality, anyway?

    No idea honestly. I just know my brother has gone through 3 different sets from various companies on his E90 and every single one has failed within a few months. The biggest problem has been water leakage.

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    L Ron HowardL Ron Howard The duck MinnesotaRegistered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    mRahmani wrote: »
    I'd be buying the whole housing for it, if I were to do it. Amazon has them at ~$100.

    I'm very skeptical of cheap aftermarket headlights. Proper vehicle lighting is expensive for a reason: it takes a lot of engineering to create a light housing that will stand up to the elements, actually light up the road, meet DOT regs, and fit the vehicle well. The vast majority of aftermarket lights I've seen are trash with embarrassing quality control.

    Tldr buyer beware

    How do you know when one is good and of good quality? Or good enough quality, anyway?

    No idea honestly. I just know my brother has gone through 3 different sets from various companies on his E90 and every single one has failed within a few months. The biggest problem has been water leakage.

    Thanks for the heads up. I'll be doing some research before I plunk down on anything.

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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    So I've gotta poke at the jets and main needle a tiny bit tomorrow because the idle is wicked rough right now but

    but

    the Cub starts and revs

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    webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    God its such a great feeling when something you've been working on fires up.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    Right now it only idles with the choke in, but fortunately this seems to be a super common question on Lifan gearhead forums so I've got a plan of attack

    Once it runs a bit more smoothly, the next step is hooliganery on the backyard lawn

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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    edited April 2017
    the good news: compressed air blew a tiny brass shaving out of the idle jet, so that's clear

    the bad news: everything is back together and now it just straight up doesn't kick at all! lesson for next time: take a note of how far out each screw is...

    game plan at this point is, when I get home after my next class, to pull the fuel line, take it all apart and double-check the float's adjusted correctly, and then put it back together a little more tightly this time

    edit: oh thank god, tboltusa has some archives of a lot of forum posts and images that have long since gone defunct on their original sites, and especially a great guide for unfucking the floats

    Mortal Sky on
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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Mortal Sky wrote: »
    the good news: compressed air blew a tiny brass shaving out of the idle jet, so that's clear

    the bad news: everything is back together and now it just straight up doesn't kick at all! lesson for next time: take a note of how far out each screw is...

    game plan at this point is, when I get home after my next class, to pull the fuel line, take it all apart and double-check the float's adjusted correctly, and then put it back together a little more tightly this time

    edit: oh thank god, tboltusa has some archives of a lot of forum posts and images that have long since gone defunct on their original sites, and especially a great guide for unfucking the floats

    Fuel inject it, it's the only way!

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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    well, it is back to running and floating correctly and such, plus now it idles correctly with the choke out!

    the first time I tightened the idle screw I put it in way way too far, could not get the motor to stall out for lack of a killswitch, and almost smacked it into the wall after trying to stall it in third gear, only to realize the idle was so high it engaged anyway

    fixed that with some maneuvering of a screwdriver past a hot exhaust pipe and lowering the idle to a sane degree

    I have also now been banned from starting the bike in the basement so now I have to wait til it quits raining

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    CormacCormac Registered User regular
    I'm admittedly dead set on buying a bike this Summer (finally booked the MSF after dragging my feet for a week), and doing some research on what to expect at the dealership I didn't realize that there would be upwards of $1000-2000 in additional fees on top of the price of the bike. I knew there would be a few hundred in tax, registration, but the extra stuff like set up and shipping fees I wasn't expecting. As much as I'd like to step up to something like a Yamaha FZ07 or 690 Duke the total cost will end up being way too much over the 390 Duke I'm so enamored with. Luckily there is a local dealer that carries both KTM and Yamaha, so I can discuss with them what my options are. Hopefully come June the dealerships will actually have stock of the new models too, or a decent stock of used bikes as another option. I'd prefer not to buy used or finance anything, but if I buy used I'd much rather do it from a dealership.

    Steam: Gridlynk | PSN: Gridlynk | FFXIV: Jarvellis Mika
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    PsykomaPsykoma Registered User regular
    edited April 2017
    You're going to drop your first bike. It's going to happen, it doesn't matter how confident you are, that bike is going to be dropped at some point and probably sooner than later.
    Not to say you shouldn't buy new, but keep that in mind.

    Psykoma on
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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
    So I found what I think is a bargain on a manual Chevy SS, aka Holden Commodore SSV-Redline. And my bank gave me a thumbs up....

    Why the fuck are people loaning me money, I still play with Legos!

    Giving the car a once over tonight, we'll see how it goes...

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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    it still blows my mind how much of a stock sleeper the SS is. basically a Camaro track-pack dressed like an Impala. I would way rather have one than a Dodge Hellcat or Demon or whatever ostentatious bullshit muscle cars the cool kids are into these days

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    CormacCormac Registered User regular
    Psykoma wrote: »
    You're going to drop your first bike. It's going to happen, it doesn't matter how confident you are, that bike is going to be dropped at some point and probably sooner than later.
    Not to say you shouldn't buy new, but keep that in mind.

    Yeah, it's something I've very aware of. I know it's inevitable and despite how careful I may try to be it's still going to happen. Hell, there's a good chance it'll happen on my way home from the dealership. Investing in some crash bars might be worth looking into or just have some money set aside for repairs, replacement fairings, and maybe some Plasti Dip and sticker sets. There's no denying having it happen on a new bike will suck more than on a used bike.

    Steam: Gridlynk | PSN: Gridlynk | FFXIV: Jarvellis Mika
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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Just fit an LT4 crate motor and some decent coilovers to an SS, you get basically the same vehicle for 1/4 of the price.

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    BouwsTBouwsT Wanna come to a super soft birthday party? Registered User regular
    Car thread, thoughts on second gen Cadillac CTS4's (2008-2013)? Thinking of picking one up, most range from 90,000-150,000 km, and sell for less than 15K Canadian funny-bucks. Thoughts on something equivalent/better value?

    Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
    edited April 2017
    BouwsT wrote: »
    Car thread, thoughts on second gen Cadillac CTS4's (2008-2013)? Thinking of picking one up, most range from 90,000-150,000 km, and sell for less than 15K Canadian funny-bucks. Thoughts on something equivalent/better value?

    Solid car, but avoid the 3.0L V6. The 3.0 manages the incredible feat of having both less power and worse fuel economy than the 3.6L.

    I did a thing
    doWayzo.jpg

    Sadly, this means the Vette has to go. Cleaning it up and bolting on a few replacements parts I've already grabbed for it and off to AutoTrader with it.

    mRahmani on
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    L Ron HowardL Ron Howard The duck MinnesotaRegistered User regular
    I just found out a friend of mine bought an Infiniti G37x earlier this week. Hasn't driven it much yet because of the snow we just got here in MN.

    I think I can corrupt him enough for him to make it go faster. A couple of turbos, better suspension, body kit. And a nice, loud exhaust.

    What's a good engine I can suggest he swap into there? Is the 3.7L V6 good? I don't actually know if it's the same in the Z or not. LS of some number swap maybe?

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    I just found out a friend of mine bought an Infiniti G37x earlier this week. Hasn't driven it much yet because of the snow we just got here in MN.

    I think I can corrupt him enough for him to make it go faster. A couple of turbos, better suspension, body kit. And a nice, loud exhaust.

    What's a good engine I can suggest he swap into there? Is the 3.7L V6 good? I don't actually know if it's the same in the Z or not. LS of some number swap maybe?

    The V6 in the infiniti G37 is basically the exact same motor as the 370Z, yeah. Tell him to turbo it, then if he suggests a rear-mount turbo setup, slap the taste out of his mouth.

    Turbos go in engine bays, not at the opposite end of the car to the engine.

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    BouwsT wrote: »
    Car thread, thoughts on second gen Cadillac CTS4's (2008-2013)? Thinking of picking one up, most range from 90,000-150,000 km, and sell for less than 15K Canadian funny-bucks. Thoughts on something equivalent/better value?

    Solid car, but avoid the 3.0L V6. The 3.0 manages the incredible feat of having both less power and worse fuel economy than the 3.6L.

    I did a thing
    doWayzo.jpg

    Sadly, this means the Vette has to go. Cleaning it up and bolting on a few replacements parts I've already grabbed for it and off to AutoTrader with it.

    https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/superchargers/fdfi1900-holden-ve-vf-commodore

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    L Ron HowardL Ron Howard The duck MinnesotaRegistered User regular
    I just found out a friend of mine bought an Infiniti G37x earlier this week. Hasn't driven it much yet because of the snow we just got here in MN.

    I think I can corrupt him enough for him to make it go faster. A couple of turbos, better suspension, body kit. And a nice, loud exhaust.

    What's a good engine I can suggest he swap into there? Is the 3.7L V6 good? I don't actually know if it's the same in the Z or not. LS of some number swap maybe?

    The V6 in the infiniti G37 is basically the exact same motor as the 370Z, yeah. Tell him to turbo it, then if he suggests a rear-mount turbo setup, slap the taste out of his mouth.

    Turbos go in engine bays, not at the opposite end of the car to the engine.

    Always in the engine bay. Always. OMG the lag of putting in anywhere else.

    Also:

    2017 Honda Civic Type R's heading to the U.S.A!!
    Fp0JTIp.jpg
    https://imgur.com/a/g9bHF

    Mmmmm. They're almost here. I wants one.

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    IronKnuckle's GhostIronKnuckle's Ghost Registered User regular
    According to this title I'm the legal owner of a 1991 Honda Beat. Maybe next week I'll have it? I don't even know anymore.

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    KrieghundKrieghund Registered User regular
    Those Civics are extremely overstyled for my taste. One of the reasons I got my car like it is, is because it doesn't have a wing.

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    Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    Well, I'm feeling a bit of swing from the Cub pendulum of good fortune

    The front suspension bushings need to be swapped, it is unrideable without them

    Plus it goes to live with a friend for a few months while I'm busy with stuff post-graduation

    Bluh

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    a nu starta nu start Registered User regular
    According to this title I'm the legal owner of a 1991 Honda Beat. Maybe next week I'll have it? I don't even know anymore.

    Please tell me you got a yellow one.

    Number One Tricky
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    webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited April 2017
    Krieghund wrote: »
    Those Civics are extremely overstyled for my taste. One of the reasons I got my car like it is, is because it doesn't have a wing.

    I completely agree with you on overstyled cars, but I think the Civic does it right though, in that it just goes nuts with it. Like Honda said "Fuck it, we're going to make it look like how you're going to drive it". Same Way how the Focus RS works. I like a decent helping of audacity with my hot hatches.

    webguy20 on
    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
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    mRahmanimRahmani DetroitRegistered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    BouwsT wrote: »
    Car thread, thoughts on second gen Cadillac CTS4's (2008-2013)? Thinking of picking one up, most range from 90,000-150,000 km, and sell for less than 15K Canadian funny-bucks. Thoughts on something equivalent/better value?

    Solid car, but avoid the 3.0L V6. The 3.0 manages the incredible feat of having both less power and worse fuel economy than the 3.6L.

    I did a thing
    doWayzo.jpg

    Sadly, this means the Vette has to go. Cleaning it up and bolting on a few replacements parts I've already grabbed for it and off to AutoTrader with it.

    https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/automotive-performance/superchargers/fdfi1900-holden-ve-vf-commodore

    Got a couple years of warranty left before I start bolting stuff on, but yeah... I'll get there.

This discussion has been closed.