Really I painted these farseers about 25 years apart
I know color theory but I follow the ideal of KISS far more {Keep it simple stupid} Just I did not really paint from when I moved here in 07 to last summer also I painted in bits n fits during when I had the free time before 07
The primary colours they taught us all in school are flat out lies.
[Purple is a lie snip]
OH
MY
GOD
It’s 5 hours later and I’m still staring at purple things in my surroundings with a mixture of awe and suspicion.
It lead me to ponder how a single extra cone would probably cause our brains to perceive like 8 more colours due to the different potential stimulation patterns.
Then I looked up which animal has the most cones in its eye.
The Mantis Shrimp has 16.
16!
Life must be one constant psychedelic acid trip landscape.
+8
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Does anyone here use Impcat and know how to get more than just the vallejo paints to use for it?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
The primary colours they taught us all in school are flat out lies.
[Purple is a lie snip]
OH
MY
GOD
It’s 5 hours later and I’m still staring at purple things in my surroundings with a mixture of awe and suspicion.
It lead me to ponder how a single extra cone would probably cause our brains to perceive like 8 more colours due to the different potential stimulation patterns.
Then I looked up which animal has the most cones in its eye.
The Mantis Shrimp has 16.
16!
Life must be one constant psychedelic acid trip landscape.
There are human tetrachromats with an extra ‘yellow’ cone variety. Also the red and blue pigments in your eyes are actually sensitive into the near IR and UVA ranges, but you don’t see that because different bits of the eye filter that out before it gets to your retina. Also also, you don’t have to have a blind spot! Your retina is just glued on backwards because mammals are dumb!
The primary colours they taught us all in school are flat out lies.
[Purple is a lie snip]
OH
MY
GOD
It’s 5 hours later and I’m still staring at purple things in my surroundings with a mixture of awe and suspicion.
It lead me to ponder how a single extra cone would probably cause our brains to perceive like 8 more colours due to the different potential stimulation patterns.
Then I looked up which animal has the most cones in its eye.
The Mantis Shrimp has 16.
16!
Life must be one constant psychedelic acid trip landscape.
The primary colours they taught us all in school are flat out lies.
[Purple is a lie snip]
OH
MY
GOD
It’s 5 hours later and I’m still staring at purple things in my surroundings with a mixture of awe and suspicion.
It lead me to ponder how a single extra cone would probably cause our brains to perceive like 8 more colours due to the different potential stimulation patterns.
Then I looked up which animal has the most cones in its eye.
The Mantis Shrimp has 16.
16!
Life must be one constant psychedelic acid trip landscape.
If you have access to HBOmax, there’s a short special called What Animals See that’s pretty cool, if a little dry. Mantis Shrimp have wild ass eyes y’all
+1
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
As a test I think it looks awesome!
For a table model a bit more grunge would probably help it out a bit, the whites are really white.
If you're happy with this, I'd say go to town. However I felt I'd lend a bit of a note on if you wanted to make it feel more Maliwan overall. Kind of depends on your comfort level and desired output.
If you go looking at Maliwan guns in general, one of the defining features of the scheme is that it almost never respects the natural boundaries and break points of the shape. That is, when they draw a line of colour, it just goes straight through the entire form rather than being limited to a specific surface or component. In that respect, you might get something a bit more in spirit of the source by disrespecting panel lines.
I have a theory that if this is applied to each component individually, it'll probably look rather busy, so you'd probably want to try coming up with something that treats the whole armor as a single unit. The gun could still be handled separately to be more "borderlands-y" and would likely look great.
(FWIW, regardless of my above comment, I would try reversing the white and black on your test model - I think making the cloth the brightest part of the model is making the armor fade a bit as the natural draw of the eye. It creates kind of a weird imbalance for me, but maybe I'm a minority)
I feel like all the progress I've made as a painter in the last few months (years, maybe?) has had almost nothing to do with actually putting paint on a mini and almost everything to do with my understanding of color and mixing. I've been making it a point to work with as few colors as I think I can; primarily mixing and using inks to shift tones as needed.
It has been liberating.
This is something I need to learn.
The GW paint system is fantastic for pre-built hightlights and tones, but it's a huge crutch.
If you're happy with this, I'd say go to town. However I felt I'd lend a bit of a note on if you wanted to make it feel more Maliwan overall. Kind of depends on your comfort level and desired output.
If you go looking at Maliwan guns in general, one of the defining features of the scheme is that it almost never respects the natural boundaries and break points of the shape. That is, when they draw a line of colour, it just goes straight through the entire form rather than being limited to a specific surface or component. In that respect, you might get something a bit more in spirit of the source by disrespecting panel lines.
I have a theory that if this is applied to each component individually, it'll probably look rather busy, so you'd probably want to try coming up with something that treats the whole armor as a single unit. The gun could still be handled separately to be more "borderlands-y" and would likely look great.
(FWIW, regardless of my above comment, I would try reversing the white and black on your test model - I think making the cloth the brightest part of the model is making the armor fade a bit as the natural draw of the eye. It creates kind of a weird imbalance for me, but maybe I'm a minority)
The only reason I'm hesitant to paint it this way is because I'm not good at painting and this would involve a lot of potentially taping parts off to avoid getting paint on them and there are a lot if weird spots all over so I don't feel confident about getting a perfect seal to prevent paint from getting on already painted parts.
I feel like all the progress I've made as a painter in the last few months (years, maybe?) has had almost nothing to do with actually putting paint on a mini and almost everything to do with my understanding of color and mixing. I've been making it a point to work with as few colors as I think I can; primarily mixing and using inks to shift tones as needed.
It has been liberating.
This is something I need to learn.
The GW paint system is fantastic for pre-built hightlights and tones, but it's a huge crutch.
I'm basically a complete idiot when it comes to color stuff. If I can't find something to show me how to do certain stuff like plasma glow in different colors besides blue I wont do them because for some reason I just can't grasp the basic concepts of doing it. I've tried to watch YouTube channels like next level painting, squidmar, and a few others that do some in depth paint stuff with color and it just doesn't help me.
I very often don't do layers like building up colors because I can't tell the difference between adding russ grey over the fang and adding russ grey over mechanicus standars grey so I tend to just put on a base paint that will make the next one require fewer layers and go from there.
I also have a lot of trouble with highlighting skin. I've watched a lot of videos for it and I can't really grasp the concept for that either. It is part of why I hate painting skin.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
At first this was deeply troubling to me, but this actually makes purple even cooler
And then you think "I'll just buy magenta, cyan, yellow, and black, and I can make all the colors in the world".
And then you realize that you can't. First off, you also need white. But even with that, you can't make all the colors, because the gamut of CMYK is much smaller than that of your eye.
The colored area are all the colors you can see. The RGB is what you monitor can create (there are 3 RGB profiles here; sRGB is the "classic" one). The CMYK is what you can print (or mix with CMYK colors, but I repeat myself). None of them covers all the colors your eye can percieve.
I love all this color information since I lurk this thread for the awesome paint jobs everyone else does. Hopefully one of these days years I'll paint my mechs and share photos. Till then I have lots of admiring to do.
And then you think "I'll just buy magenta, cyan, yellow, and black, and I can make all the colors in the world".
This is where one of the many uses of inks pops up. Once you've darkened/lightened a color with black/white you lose saturation. Inks boost the saturation back up without altering the hue (assuming you've mixed your ink to match the pre-desaturation hue).
So technically to make any color of paint you would need cyan, magenta, and yellow paint and ink, black and white as either paint or ink. If you want to get metallics you would need either a metallic medium or a neutral silver and you would mix in inks to make the various metal colors without dulling the shine.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Did the cloth part tan and black on the Tau model to see how it looks.
Kind of digging the tan one the most.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+5
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Yeah, that feels better overall - it makes the armor shapes the focus. Would also maybe swap the black and blue bits on the gun? I think that'll give you a more familiar gun form (dark stalk, highlighted under-barrel).
And then you think "I'll just buy magenta, cyan, yellow, and black, and I can make all the colors in the world".
This is where one of the many uses of inks pops up. Once you've darkened/lightened a color with black/white you lose saturation. Inks boost the saturation back up without altering the hue (assuming you've mixed your ink to match the pre-desaturation hue).
So technically to make any color of paint you would need cyan, magenta, and yellow paint and ink, black and white as either paint or ink. If you want to get metallics you would need either a metallic medium or a neutral silver and you would mix in inks to make the various metal colors without dulling the shine.
But you'd still be limited the CMYK color space, which is smaller than that which your eye can perceive.
I saw a kid get handed a JB poster by who I presume was his parents outside my store today....he tore it in half infront of his horrified parents.....There's hope for our youth yet!
I don’t know if it’s how Asher did it, but basically every painting guide for clones/stormtroopers is to use the apothecary white contrast paint which is in fact a very light grey.
I don’t know if it’s how Asher did it, but basically every painting guide for clones/stormtroopers is to use the apothecary white contrast paint which is in fact a very light grey.
Yeah you guys basically have it. Tying back to the colour conversation of the last couple of pages, when you are looking at somethign that is white, it isn't really white. It's generally shades of grey with maybe a very small amount of actual white on the edges and most reflective surfaces. You can also fool the eye by using darker contrasting colours, like the blue here. The presence of the blue and some weathering fools the eye into thinking that the armour is white when it's mostly light grey.
My actual method is:
Prime Black
Zenithal Grey seer pretty hard.
Airbrush actual white (Vallejo Model Air White) onto the panels from the top.
Wash detail with Apothecary white. Not an all over wash, just to pick out detail like raised areas, belts, recesses that got too sprayed etc.
Edge highlight raised areas with white
Contrast Black Templar all the black stuff, except the helmet rims I've forgotten to do in like 90% of those chuds, for that I use real black.
Paint on blue
Sponge weather grey seer focusing on edges of blue bits to make them look less stark
Sponge weather a Dark Grey lightly. I use Model Colour Black Grey because that's what I have. Focus on raised areas, corners
Go back with a brush and dark grey to just chip the shin guards.
ALSO I have been painting toy soldiers wit ha certain amount of effort for 13 years so I've got a lot of knowledge on what will and won't work. Also over the last few years I've actually been focusing on speed painting over quality because I got to a stage where I was painting everything to the best of my ability and it was taking ages and killing my love for the hobby so I walked myself back to paint stuff that's nice, but most importantly QUICK. Contrast paints are fantastic and I use them a LOT. I also deliberately avoid over thinking things. I just put paint on models an d if I mess it up they get stripped. Or maybe they don't, whatever. Will anyone else notice or care about some detail? If not don't do it. I just didn't do final highlights on my Stormcrows because they were very subtle, no one else would notice them on the table, they didn't make the models pop any more and I'm not doing them for competition so why bother? Over thinking things was my bane so now it's just toot toot the hobby train has left the station.
Oh! Final think I do is have 2-3 projects I bounce between that let me do different things. At the moment I'm painting Crisis Protocol, which lets me work on some fun exciting character models, all of which are different. ASoIaF has lots of cloth, armour and skin, the Clones let me airbrush and weather my weasily black heart out. When I get bored of something I just stop and shift to another project to keep momentum rather than do something I hate and I get better results that way.
One of my first test models, I tried white for the inside of a cloak. After finishing, I had the following reaction:
and decided to use light grey instead of white from then on.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Question for the floor:
I'm working on this scratch-built spaceship, roughly in the size and scale of say the larger Dropfleet ships. I've never painted anything at this scale, so I'm a little bit flummoxed on where to go with it and what techniques to use.
It's primed and basecoated; the globes detach for further painting (the globes will be filled with "stuff"; it's a dreadnought-sized resource hauler). I want to keep it relatively muted and utilitarian, so I'm thinking maybe some different greys for the panels and/or engines. Edge highlights too? I'm just a little stumped and hesitant.
Help me Obi Wan Thread-nobi, you're my only hope!
+5
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited June 2020
I think what you're going to run into relatively quickly at this size is that the details will set the scale. That's a really fun scratch-build, but right now it would look really weird beside a dropfleet ship because it's lacking in surface details. Don't get me wrong either - that shit is _hard to pull off_, and I think you've made something genuinely cool. But if you aren't going to - for example - define some panel lines or smaller forms, you're looking at painting some of those in instead.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Oh, and feel free to use slightly different shades of paint in places because repairs get paint patches and patches come from different batches, so one panel might be slightly different to the surroundings. Also, weathering: micrometeorite scoring, reentry scorching, weapon-scars, literal space dust, fluid leaks, all of that adds up and cargo-haulers especially don’t get any TLC on that front. You can even combine the two – a patch of pristine hull in the middle of some heavy re-entry burns to show an ablative element that was recently replaced.
Posts
I know color theory but I follow the ideal of KISS far more {Keep it simple stupid} Just I did not really paint from when I moved here in 07 to last summer also I painted in bits n fits during when I had the free time before 07
It’s 5 hours later and I’m still staring at purple things in my surroundings with a mixture of awe and suspicion.
It lead me to ponder how a single extra cone would probably cause our brains to perceive like 8 more colours due to the different potential stimulation patterns.
Then I looked up which animal has the most cones in its eye.
The Mantis Shrimp has 16.
16!
Life must be one constant psychedelic acid trip landscape.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
There are human tetrachromats with an extra ‘yellow’ cone variety. Also the red and blue pigments in your eyes are actually sensitive into the near IR and UVA ranges, but you don’t see that because different bits of the eye filter that out before it gets to your retina. Also also, you don’t have to have a blind spot! Your retina is just glued on backwards because mammals are dumb!
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
https://www.wnycstudios.org/podcasts/radiolab/segments/211178-rip-rainbow
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If you have access to HBOmax, there’s a short special called What Animals See that’s pretty cool, if a little dry. Mantis Shrimp have wild ass eyes y’all
For a table model a bit more grunge would probably help it out a bit, the whites are really white.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
If you go looking at Maliwan guns in general, one of the defining features of the scheme is that it almost never respects the natural boundaries and break points of the shape. That is, when they draw a line of colour, it just goes straight through the entire form rather than being limited to a specific surface or component. In that respect, you might get something a bit more in spirit of the source by disrespecting panel lines.
I have a theory that if this is applied to each component individually, it'll probably look rather busy, so you'd probably want to try coming up with something that treats the whole armor as a single unit. The gun could still be handled separately to be more "borderlands-y" and would likely look great.
(FWIW, regardless of my above comment, I would try reversing the white and black on your test model - I think making the cloth the brightest part of the model is making the armor fade a bit as the natural draw of the eye. It creates kind of a weird imbalance for me, but maybe I'm a minority)
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
This is something I need to learn.
The GW paint system is fantastic for pre-built hightlights and tones, but it's a huge crutch.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I think I'm pretty close to a point where my Space wolves will be more painted models than not.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Check out the impcat subreddit... Somewhere in there is a link to a Mega file that has more color palettes and test models
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The only reason I'm hesitant to paint it this way is because I'm not good at painting and this would involve a lot of potentially taping parts off to avoid getting paint on them and there are a lot if weird spots all over so I don't feel confident about getting a perfect seal to prevent paint from getting on already painted parts.
I'm basically a complete idiot when it comes to color stuff. If I can't find something to show me how to do certain stuff like plasma glow in different colors besides blue I wont do them because for some reason I just can't grasp the basic concepts of doing it. I've tried to watch YouTube channels like next level painting, squidmar, and a few others that do some in depth paint stuff with color and it just doesn't help me.
I very often don't do layers like building up colors because I can't tell the difference between adding russ grey over the fang and adding russ grey over mechanicus standars grey so I tend to just put on a base paint that will make the next one require fewer layers and go from there.
I also have a lot of trouble with highlighting skin. I've watched a lot of videos for it and I can't really grasp the concept for that either. It is part of why I hate painting skin.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
At first this was deeply troubling to me, but this actually makes purple even cooler
And then you think "I'll just buy magenta, cyan, yellow, and black, and I can make all the colors in the world".
And then you realize that you can't. First off, you also need white. But even with that, you can't make all the colors, because the gamut of CMYK is much smaller than that of your eye.
The colored area are all the colors you can see. The RGB is what you monitor can create (there are 3 RGB profiles here; sRGB is the "classic" one). The CMYK is what you can print (or mix with CMYK colors, but I repeat myself). None of them covers all the colors your eye can percieve.
Not that the opposite would stop us!
Steam: betsuni7
This is where one of the many uses of inks pops up. Once you've darkened/lightened a color with black/white you lose saturation. Inks boost the saturation back up without altering the hue (assuming you've mixed your ink to match the pre-desaturation hue).
So technically to make any color of paint you would need cyan, magenta, and yellow paint and ink, black and white as either paint or ink. If you want to get metallics you would need either a metallic medium or a neutral silver and you would mix in inks to make the various metal colors without dulling the shine.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Kind of digging the tan one the most.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
But you'd still be limited the CMYK color space, which is smaller than that which your eye can perceive.
Here's what I painted late May-Present:
But that's a lie!
Also painted MOAR Star Wars and supervillains
The grand Army of the republic
General Kenobi
The BARC speeder
Aiwa Squad
Bantha Squad
Killmonger
Also totally forgot to photograph a couple of ASoIaF characters.
I don’t know if it’s how Asher did it, but basically every painting guide for clones/stormtroopers is to use the apothecary white contrast paint which is in fact a very light grey.
Yeah you guys basically have it. Tying back to the colour conversation of the last couple of pages, when you are looking at somethign that is white, it isn't really white. It's generally shades of grey with maybe a very small amount of actual white on the edges and most reflective surfaces. You can also fool the eye by using darker contrasting colours, like the blue here. The presence of the blue and some weathering fools the eye into thinking that the armour is white when it's mostly light grey.
My actual method is:
Prime Black
Zenithal Grey seer pretty hard.
Airbrush actual white (Vallejo Model Air White) onto the panels from the top.
Wash detail with Apothecary white. Not an all over wash, just to pick out detail like raised areas, belts, recesses that got too sprayed etc.
Edge highlight raised areas with white
Contrast Black Templar all the black stuff, except the helmet rims I've forgotten to do in like 90% of those chuds, for that I use real black.
Paint on blue
Sponge weather grey seer focusing on edges of blue bits to make them look less stark
Sponge weather a Dark Grey lightly. I use Model Colour Black Grey because that's what I have. Focus on raised areas, corners
Go back with a brush and dark grey to just chip the shin guards.
I used a 501st costuming guide for the markings and also where to apply the dark grey cos those guys have their shit figured out.
https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TC_-_501st_Legion
ALSO I have been painting toy soldiers wit ha certain amount of effort for 13 years so I've got a lot of knowledge on what will and won't work. Also over the last few years I've actually been focusing on speed painting over quality because I got to a stage where I was painting everything to the best of my ability and it was taking ages and killing my love for the hobby so I walked myself back to paint stuff that's nice, but most importantly QUICK. Contrast paints are fantastic and I use them a LOT. I also deliberately avoid over thinking things. I just put paint on models an d if I mess it up they get stripped. Or maybe they don't, whatever. Will anyone else notice or care about some detail? If not don't do it. I just didn't do final highlights on my Stormcrows because they were very subtle, no one else would notice them on the table, they didn't make the models pop any more and I'm not doing them for competition so why bother? Over thinking things was my bane so now it's just toot toot the hobby train has left the station.
Oh! Final think I do is have 2-3 projects I bounce between that let me do different things. At the moment I'm painting Crisis Protocol, which lets me work on some fun exciting character models, all of which are different. ASoIaF has lots of cloth, armour and skin, the Clones let me airbrush and weather my weasily black heart out. When I get bored of something I just stop and shift to another project to keep momentum rather than do something I hate and I get better results that way.
and decided to use light grey instead of white from then on.
The various flavors of eldar laugh
Eldar models are extremely clean and devoid of detail compared to something like the pushfit Seaguard or other elf models.
Your move.
I'm working on this scratch-built spaceship, roughly in the size and scale of say the larger Dropfleet ships. I've never painted anything at this scale, so I'm a little bit flummoxed on where to go with it and what techniques to use.
It's primed and basecoated; the globes detach for further painting (the globes will be filled with "stuff"; it's a dreadnought-sized resource hauler). I want to keep it relatively muted and utilitarian, so I'm thinking maybe some different greys for the panels and/or engines. Edge highlights too? I'm just a little stumped and hesitant.
Help me Obi Wan Thread-nobi, you're my only hope!
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.