Right - looks weird to me as an Australian since we mostly don't use it (basically if you see something in your attic thats crumbly and loose in an older house, assume the worst).
Right - looks weird to me as an Australian since we mostly don't use it (basically if you see something in your attic thats crumbly and loose in an older house, assume the worst).
I mean depending on how old that blown insulation is you might not be wrong.
That is about 3.5 feet of water, in the basement where the furnace and water softening system is. Because the evicted renters are vindictive jackasses, they had the power purposefully shut off their last day in the house (which was a week after they were actually evicted, since the owner was still trying to be a nice guy and let them finish getting all their junk out), instead of the customary NOT having it shut off and the people moving in having it transferred to a new account. We knew about the water issue, which isn't an issue, because there are two quality sump pumps in cisterns that keep the basements dry, unless someone has the power shut off, and the generator has been removed, and then there's a big rain storm...
The good: We hadn't closed yet! We were supposed to close Monday, but the lender dragged their feet. The storm was all day Tuesday. We discovered it yesterday, the still-owner called their insurance company, and they're getting cut a check for a new furnace and water softening system, which they're signing over to us once we close tomorrow.
Also we discovered that "it takes 72 hours to have power turned on" we were told Monday afternoon is a baldfaced lie, since we called back Wednesday morning and said we have no power and a basement full of water and 20 minutes later the smart meter on the house went "clunk" and we had power.
Speaking of power, more bad...
That's a 3-prong power cord plugged into a 2-prong adapter into a 2 prong light socket outlet adapter, the other end having been cut off and wire-nutted to the fixture's internal wiring, just hanging out there. Four of the six fixtures in the garage are like that...
But also, more good!
The garage has its own panel and is pre-wired for a MIG/TIG welder, with a plug already on the wall.
There won't be any welding for a while though because right now the garage looks like we're searching for the Ark of the Covenant.
30amp 240v circuit also good for charging an electric car 👍
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Walk into the garage to find a leak from the unit above, which is a rental. After a bunch of calls to my HOA management company they finally get in touch with the company that manages the rental and 3.5ish hours later they seem to have stopped the leak. Haven't heard anything from from anyone involved with the rental though.
Tried calling my insurance to report it and see what they wanted to do and they were less then helpful. The whole interaction basically amounted to "Sir, do you want to report a claim or not? If you want to report one you'll need all your info handy before you file" at which point I told them I'd call back later. So yeah, been a great afternoon.
Edit: who even do I call to get a a quote on repairing my drywall and what not so I can toss it at their management company? A plumber? I don't think I want their handyman to do it.
Are you in Barrie or further north? Just curious, I moved to Barrie last year.
Toronto prices and really anywhere within a 45 min drive are just so nuts.
In terms of house stuff, put some drywall up in the garage and picked up a pressure washer and did the floors. Garage looks respectable which in my family is very rare.
Walk into the garage to find a leak from the unit above, which is a rental. After a bunch of calls to my HOA management company they finally get in touch with the company that manages the rental and 3.5ish hours later they seem to have stopped the leak. Haven't heard anything from from anyone involved with the rental though.
Tried calling my insurance to report it and see what they wanted to do and they were less then helpful. The whole interaction basically amounted to "Sir, do you want to report a claim or not? If you want to report one you'll need all your info handy before you file" at which point I told them I'd call back later. So yeah, been a great afternoon.
Edit: who even do I call to get a a quote on repairing my drywall and what not so I can toss it at their management company? A plumber? I don't think I want their handyman to do it.
Call an actual water damage / disaster remediation company. There are tons of folks that will handle replacing drywall, insulation, etc. and know how to make sure it's dried out first, etc.
Three hours of cursing whoever designed junction boxes with a tiny hole to shove three wire connectors through:
Barely visible: the regular fucking sized light bulb it takes.
could you swap it out with a long edison style bulb?
Tthe bulb is actually something I'm happy about. The previous fixture ostensibly took candelabra bulb, but in fact took no known bulb size known to man.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Three hours of cursing whoever designed junction boxes with a tiny hole to shove three wire connectors through:
Barely visible: the regular fucking sized light bulb it takes.
could you swap it out with a long edison style bulb?
Tthe bulb is actually something I'm happy about. The previous fixture ostensibly took candelabra bulb, but in fact took no known bulb size known to man.
Oh yea, fuck those bulbs. Had a couple old lamps that were some kind of candelabra bulb. I swear even when I took in a bulb that fit to make sure I got the right one, when I tried to screw in the new one it wouldn't fit.
When I bought my house there was a candelabra-bulb-taking light fixture that the previous owners put bulbs into that were too strong for it, probably to make the room brighter for the showings and whatnot. Well, that led to the fixture overloading and burning out (with a nice noisy pop) a few days after we took ownership, which was a fun "welcome to home ownership, fucko" moment.
Finished tearing out all the old carpet in the house today. It filled a 6x12 trailer four feet high. It's the most disgusting carpet I've ever seen, and I've lived in carpeted off-campus student housing back when I was in college. It was more stain than carpet. Just removing it made the house smell better.
On the plus side, I've been finding all kinds of odd stuff. A Perot '96 campaign hat. A Catholic last rites crucifix/candle/holy water set still in its box in perfect condition. A cold war era world map. A Norwegian Cruise Lines "Welcome Aboard" package from March of 1994 complete with full 7 day itinerary, gilded picture of the iconic SS Norway (formerly the SS France and still the longest ocean liner at the time) suitable for framing, and a postcard from the Virgin Islands featuring a topless model. Also, 46 cents.
This isn't an urgent need because the desk I'm currently using is particleboard and it supports my dual 27" monitors + single arm just fine.
Depending on where you are and if you have the tools to plane it, a sawmill will have much better prices on hardwood to top that desk. Otherwise, you can get butcherblock or pay for the prepped wood at Lowes/HD for pretty, or go a little cheaper with softwood like the southern yellow pine boards sold for joists. If you want a painted top, do plywood trimmed in pine for a relatively inexpensive but very strong top.
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EncA Fool with CompassionPronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered Userregular
Don't get wood from HD or Lowes, its terrible quality and poorly cut. Find a lumber dealer in your city, better prices and better material to work with.
This isn't an urgent need because the desk I'm currently using is particleboard and it supports my dual 27" monitors + single arm just fine.
Or go the Ikea route like many of us (I'm rocking a Karlby top). You can get their kitchen countertops/butcher blocks fairly cheap and they hold up well.
Ikea's countertops/desktop fabrications are pretty damn good for the price point!
One quick thing to note some Ikea countertops are particleboard and veneer. These are probably better. I went with the 1 1/8" solid wood butcherblock from them for an apartment reno job, and in the summer heat and humidity they warped by more than half an inch in places, and had glue failure and splits in other spots. In hindsight, would definitely have gone with the 1.5" solid pieces from HD/Lowes for more stability.
Simpsonia on
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EncA Fool with CompassionPronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered Userregular
Everything at Ikea is MDF and veneer. If your place lacks AC and humidity and heat are a problem, you probably shouldn't be shopping there at all.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Everything at Ikea is MDF and veneer. If your place lacks AC and humidity and heat are a problem, you probably shouldn't be shopping there at all.
Correction: everything CHEAP at Ikea is particleboard and veneer.
They do make solid wood stuff, but it costs more.
I actually just bought (and sanded, stained, oiled, and installed) solid butcher block counters from Ikea a year and a half ago, at which point there were on clearance due to discontinuance (in Canada, anyway). I don't think they sell it at all anymore.
You can still get cheap butcherblock from other hardware stores, though. I wouldn't bother with the veneer stuff.
So in non-ikea news, I talked to my mortgage provider and he found a very rarely used program that would allow us to refinance even though we only purchased a year ago and are only at like 93LTV. Currently at 4% and thinking about buying down to 3%. Would be a pretty fair chunk of cash up front at $5.2k to refinance, but would still pay for itself in only 18 months, which is a no brainer.
Downside is we would have to do a new appraisal, but only have to hit what we appraised at for the first time.
I know DeWalt has an adapter for their Flexvolt miter saw to make it corded, but the adapter uses a double battery slot. Do they make one for a single slot?
I'd like to pick up a bare tool cordless circular saw but be able to use it corded.
Barring that I'll just get a regular corded saw but I was curious if I even had the option of using an adapter.
To be honest, I've never been a fan of cordless saws, outside of reciprocating saws. I think that would go especially for miter saws. Unless you're a trim carpenter lugging the miter around all the damn time, how often are you going to be away from an outlet, and is it enough of a hassle to justify the 2-4x increase in cost?
Clarification: I want this for a circular saw; not a miter. The (not great but serviceable Craftsman miter I have is corded)
Sorry, I was posting in a hurry.
Edit: I may have misread your post. I've been looking for a corded saw for a bit. Waiting on a deal. This option just popped in my head last night because there tend to be a number of bare tool sales for cordless.
Equifax can go fuck itself. A few years back I put a freeze on due to the large Equifax breach, and only used temporary lifts for when I had to have a hard credit pull. Every time has been fine until now. I tried logging in, but couldn't remember my password. Tried resetting but kept getting error messages. Tried calling, and I'm not joking it took me an hour and a half. First their phone tree is complete hot garbage that kept trying to verify my info, but then bombed out and hung up on me. Finally got through to a human a different way, and she said she couldn't help and had to transfer me. Three transfers later, every time to the wrong department (as if their internal numbers had all been swapped without telling anyone), I hung up and tried googling ways to get a human. Tried a few new numbers and methods and finally got through. What they then told me was that my entire account was locked and I would have to fax or mail in a copy of my passport, drivers license, utility bills, and social security card (or W2). Literally nothing else can be done, they will not touch the account without me sending all that shit in. Since I was a little incredulous. I hung up and called another number from their main line to at least verify all this and the fax number (I kept getting people shady Russian accents and spotty audio connections). Was told the same thing and they verified the fax number again. So all I can do is fax in everything that anyone would need to completely steal my identity to the people who can't secure shit. But since Equifax would likely bump my credit rating over a threshhold (Transunion is always really low compared to Equifax and Experian), I had to do it.
Posts
You might want to have that stuff checked for asbestos.
Also, this is how the section of flex riser arrived:
Right - looks weird to me as an Australian since we mostly don't use it (basically if you see something in your attic thats crumbly and loose in an older house, assume the worst).
I mean depending on how old that blown insulation is you might not be wrong.
That is about 3.5 feet of water, in the basement where the furnace and water softening system is. Because the evicted renters are vindictive jackasses, they had the power purposefully shut off their last day in the house (which was a week after they were actually evicted, since the owner was still trying to be a nice guy and let them finish getting all their junk out), instead of the customary NOT having it shut off and the people moving in having it transferred to a new account. We knew about the water issue, which isn't an issue, because there are two quality sump pumps in cisterns that keep the basements dry, unless someone has the power shut off, and the generator has been removed, and then there's a big rain storm...
The good: We hadn't closed yet! We were supposed to close Monday, but the lender dragged their feet. The storm was all day Tuesday. We discovered it yesterday, the still-owner called their insurance company, and they're getting cut a check for a new furnace and water softening system, which they're signing over to us once we close tomorrow.
Also we discovered that "it takes 72 hours to have power turned on" we were told Monday afternoon is a baldfaced lie, since we called back Wednesday morning and said we have no power and a basement full of water and 20 minutes later the smart meter on the house went "clunk" and we had power.
Speaking of power, more bad...
That's a 3-prong power cord plugged into a 2-prong adapter into a 2 prong light socket outlet adapter, the other end having been cut off and wire-nutted to the fixture's internal wiring, just hanging out there. Four of the six fixtures in the garage are like that...
But also, more good!
The garage has its own panel and is pre-wired for a MIG/TIG welder, with a plug already on the wall.
There won't be any welding for a while though because right now the garage looks like we're searching for the Ark of the Covenant.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Tried calling my insurance to report it and see what they wanted to do and they were less then helpful. The whole interaction basically amounted to "Sir, do you want to report a claim or not? If you want to report one you'll need all your info handy before you file" at which point I told them I'd call back later. So yeah, been a great afternoon.
Edit: who even do I call to get a a quote on repairing my drywall and what not so I can toss it at their management company? A plumber? I don't think I want their handyman to do it.
Toronto prices and really anywhere within a 45 min drive are just so nuts.
In terms of house stuff, put some drywall up in the garage and picked up a pressure washer and did the floors. Garage looks respectable which in my family is very rare.
Call an actual water damage / disaster remediation company. There are tons of folks that will handle replacing drywall, insulation, etc. and know how to make sure it's dried out first, etc.
Barely visible: the regular fucking sized light bulb it takes.
could you swap it out with a long edison style bulb?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Tthe bulb is actually something I'm happy about. The previous fixture ostensibly took candelabra bulb, but in fact took no known bulb size known to man.
Oh yea, fuck those bulbs. Had a couple old lamps that were some kind of candelabra bulb. I swear even when I took in a bulb that fit to make sure I got the right one, when I tried to screw in the new one it wouldn't fit.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
On the plus side, I've been finding all kinds of odd stuff. A Perot '96 campaign hat. A Catholic last rites crucifix/candle/holy water set still in its box in perfect condition. A cold war era world map. A Norwegian Cruise Lines "Welcome Aboard" package from March of 1994 complete with full 7 day itinerary, gilded picture of the iconic SS Norway (formerly the SS France and still the longest ocean liner at the time) suitable for framing, and a postcard from the Virgin Islands featuring a topless model. Also, 46 cents.
Sounds like the type of art fit for that sweet garage
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0823BF31L/
This isn't an urgent need because the desk I'm currently using is particleboard and it supports my dual 27" monitors + single arm just fine.
Depending on where you are and if you have the tools to plane it, a sawmill will have much better prices on hardwood to top that desk. Otherwise, you can get butcherblock or pay for the prepped wood at Lowes/HD for pretty, or go a little cheaper with softwood like the southern yellow pine boards sold for joists. If you want a painted top, do plywood trimmed in pine for a relatively inexpensive but very strong top.
Or go the Ikea route like many of us (I'm rocking a Karlby top). You can get their kitchen countertops/butcher blocks fairly cheap and they hold up well.
Jesus. I'm sure I've already ranted on here, but GD, Ikea, get your act together.
If you can't ship on time after I pay $10 for it, then don't say that you will! It's ok! But don't lie to me.
One quick thing to note some Ikea countertops are particleboard and veneer. These are probably better. I went with the 1 1/8" solid wood butcherblock from them for an apartment reno job, and in the summer heat and humidity they warped by more than half an inch in places, and had glue failure and splits in other spots. In hindsight, would definitely have gone with the 1.5" solid pieces from HD/Lowes for more stability.
Correction: everything CHEAP at Ikea is particleboard and veneer.
They do make solid wood stuff, but it costs more.
I actually just bought (and sanded, stained, oiled, and installed) solid butcher block counters from Ikea a year and a half ago, at which point there were on clearance due to discontinuance (in Canada, anyway). I don't think they sell it at all anymore.
You can still get cheap butcherblock from other hardware stores, though. I wouldn't bother with the veneer stuff.
This will go great with my topless postcard.
Downside is we would have to do a new appraisal, but only have to hit what we appraised at for the first time.
I know DeWalt has an adapter for their Flexvolt miter saw to make it corded, but the adapter uses a double battery slot. Do they make one for a single slot?
I'd like to pick up a bare tool cordless circular saw but be able to use it corded.
Barring that I'll just get a regular corded saw but I was curious if I even had the option of using an adapter.
Sorry, I was posting in a hurry.
Edit: I may have misread your post. I've been looking for a corded saw for a bit. Waiting on a deal. This option just popped in my head last night because there tend to be a number of bare tool sales for cordless.
I think I have a bosch which is fine but a little heavy.