Grudgeblessed is the mind too small for doubtRegistered Userregular
Regarding front loaders vs top loaders - front loaders clean your clothes better, they use less water and energy, and the spin is more efficient which means less time/energy wasted on drying afterwards.
For the smell, a top tip is to wipe down the gasket now and again, and maybe once a month run a hot drum cleaning cycle (unless you already regularly wash sheets or towels hot).
Most of the world nowadays use front loaders, top loaders seem to be an Americas thing - they're still big in the US and Latin America)
(disclaimer: I work at a whitegoods manufacturer, and may be biased)
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
For my front loader, I run an empty rinse cycle with about a cup of chlorine bleach mixed in every couple of weeks or thereabouts. It sloshes around for 10 minutes and drains. I then do it again with no bleach to rinse it out. Absolutely no mildew smell after that because the bleach scours it from the machine.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
For my front loader, I run an empty rinse cycle with about a cup of chlorine bleach mixed in every couple of weeks or thereabouts. It sloshes around for 10 minutes and drains. I then do it again with no bleach to rinse it out. Absolutely no mildew smell after that because the bleach scours it from the machine.
this is good but i'd like to suggest giving white vinegar a try. you can snag the monks from costco for fairly cheap and it's a less hazardous solution to clothing but will still get rid of most things you don't want like mildew and lime build up. Also good to run a cup in the dishwasher every month or so to help glass look fresher.
Its a miracle if I cut anything straight enough with a circular saw to not need touching up later, I used it a lot before I got other saws but is mostly just for coarse work now. When I fit the doors in my basement I used old school hand planes but a hand power planer would do. If you don't want to learn to use either kind of hand plane then I would recommend a saw rasp like this: https://www.amazon.com/Planer-Type-Shinto-Saw-Rasp/dp/B001AWZ4S0/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B001AWZ4S0&psc=1
They also have one built more like a traditional rasp, I have both and use each in different circumstances. For the door edge the planer style one would let you go down the length of it without the handle being in the way. Its basically a bunch of rivetted bandsaw blades and handy for shaping plastic and other materials you wouldn't want to mess up your stitched rasps on.
You don't have to freehand circular saw cuts or rips... You can buy a rip fence guide for your saw for $12 for good enough cuts. If you need to get something really precise, a couple clamps and and something with a factory straight edge (4 foot level, piece of melamine scrap, etc) turns your circular saw into a track saw that's probably more accurate than the mediocre fences that come with most table saws these days. And if you're just cutting something small like a 2x4 or 2x6 all you need is a $5 speed/rafter square.
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
Yeah, we have Energy Star ratings on pretty much all appliances.
Does the rest of the world not have cheap/old electric ranges with exposed coil burners? What do your cheap stoves look like? Or does just everybody have gas?
You don't have to freehand circular saw cuts or rips... You can buy a rip fence guide for your saw for $12 for good enough cuts. If you need to get something really precise, a couple clamps and and something with a factory straight edge (4 foot level, piece of melamine scrap, etc) turns your circular saw into a track saw that's probably more accurate than the mediocre fences that come with most table saws these days. And if you're just cutting something small like a 2x4 or 2x6 all you need is a $5 speed/rafter square.
This. I bought a clamping fence 3 yrs ago when we bought a "butcher block" countertop from Ikea (it was just a veneer).
Just like with a compound miter: take the time to get your setup dialed in and it's just fine.
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
edited February 2022
My fancy new front loading washer has a self clean cycle as well as a place to pull out any crud that might have settled in the drain area. Every few months I run a clean cycle with a package of washer cleaning powder. The user manual for my washer instructs you to wipe the unit down (with a focus on the rubber seal gasket) and leave the door open for a day after using it. The cleaning powder recommends leaving the soap cup open too. I sop up some of the water with the same cloth I'm wiping the unit down with.
My old front loader didn't have a fancy self cleaning cycle so I just ran a normal wash with some bleach every few months. Still left it open to dry for a day. I think that does more to help keep crud from growing in there than anything else.
That is all to say that I've never had a problem with my front loader getting stinky.
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
It's actually one of the few self regulating things we have done well. Every appliance I have purchased in the last 10 years (literally thousands of items professionally) has an energy star sticker on it. Almost every residential company does it, even though it is completely voluntary.
Here is what the sticker looks like.
And most low cost ranges (top part of a stove) use coils. Gas ranges are more expensive as a unit and for installation. So rentals will almost always have electric. Especially since power is usually paid by the tenant.
zepherin on
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
You don't have to freehand circular saw cuts or rips... You can buy a rip fence guide for your saw for $12 for good enough cuts. If you need to get something really precise, a couple clamps and and something with a factory straight edge (4 foot level, piece of melamine scrap, etc) turns your circular saw into a track saw that's probably more accurate than the mediocre fences that come with most table saws these days. And if you're just cutting something small like a 2x4 or 2x6 all you need is a $5 speed/rafter square.
My thinking is I could trim my doors down using a circular saw (I got a little 4-1/2 inch one) with a straight edge clamped on as a guide. But as I foresee potentially needing to trim 1/8 inch or less from some of these doors, I'm not so sure the circ saw is a great choice for that. But also, I don't want to have to buy yet another tool since I don't currently own a planer.
Haven't been able to find via internet search what the "right" tool for the job is, there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus.
You don't have to freehand circular saw cuts or rips... You can buy a rip fence guide for your saw for $12 for good enough cuts. If you need to get something really precise, a couple clamps and and something with a factory straight edge (4 foot level, piece of melamine scrap, etc) turns your circular saw into a track saw that's probably more accurate than the mediocre fences that come with most table saws these days. And if you're just cutting something small like a 2x4 or 2x6 all you need is a $5 speed/rafter square.
My thinking is I could trim my doors down using a circular saw (I got a little 4-1/2 inch one) with a straight edge clamped on as a guide. But as I foresee potentially needing to trim 1/8 inch or less from some of these doors, I'm not so sure the circ saw is a great choice for that. But also, I don't want to have to buy yet another tool since I don't currently own a planer.
Haven't been able to find via internet search what the "right" tool for the job is, there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus.
At the end of the day you're trying to remove a relatively small amount of wood from a large object in a straight line. The best tool is probably going to come down a combination of how thick the piece is you're cutting off and what tools you own. Over 1/4" thick I'd absolutely go with a circular saw and a guide. Between 1/8th and 1/4 I'd probably still do that because I don't own a planer but that might be a good choice. A belt sander would probably work as well but mine's busted, so... circular saw. At below 1/8th of an inch a planer would probably be a good choice, or a belt sander. I'd probably end up using an orbital sander unless I felt like buying a new tool.
All this talk of saws makes it feel like a good time to ask for advice.
I need something to cut wood. I currently have nothing. I want to cut baseboards, molding, make some simple boxes, maybe a tiny deck, etc etc etc. If I were to buy a single wood cutting machine, what should I get?
All this talk of saws makes it feel like a good time to ask for advice.
I need something to cut wood. I currently have nothing. I want to cut baseboards, molding, make some simple boxes, maybe a tiny deck, etc etc etc. If I were to buy a single wood cutting machine, what should I get?
Ignoring price and working area limitations, I'd recommend a table saw. Most of the things you listed you'd actually be better off with a miter saw as decking and moldings are all going to just be straight or miter cuts. But there are a lot of things a table saw can do a miter saw can't - like cutting dados or ripping sheets of plywood for making boxes.
You could also get a circular saw and buy/build a little table to turn it into a low-power table saw but you'd be really pushing it in terms of blade diameter for cutting up dimensional lumber for a deck.
All this talk of saws makes it feel like a good time to ask for advice.
I need something to cut wood. I currently have nothing. I want to cut baseboards, molding, make some simple boxes, maybe a tiny deck, etc etc etc. If I were to buy a single wood cutting machine, what should I get?
All this talk of saws makes it feel like a good time to ask for advice.
I need something to cut wood. I currently have nothing. I want to cut baseboards, molding, make some simple boxes, maybe a tiny deck, etc etc etc. If I were to buy a single wood cutting machine, what should I get?
Based on what you've listed as a need (baseboards, moulding, decking) would all be covered by a miter saw. Get something that can rotate 45 degrees and not a basic chop saw (that just goes up and down for example).
As far as boxes you'll need a table saw unless you got a compound miter saw - some of those stretch out past twelve inches.
Yeah if you're using mostly prepped material like that, a miter saw will do almost everything you want, even though a table saw is otherwise the more versatile tool. If you want some more capacity so you can cut wide things with a cut, flip, and second cut, then get a 12" sliding compound miter saw. It'll be the machine you use the most for DIY contractor grade stuff, table saws and bandsaws come into play more with further woodworking adventures.
Well versatile is always better. I don't really want to be in the position where I need to go buy MORE tools. Hmmmm. I'll research em a bit more on my own. Thanks for the advice everyone!
It's always hard to know what I'll need to make in the future. Maybe I wanna make a rad bench or table or something for the yard.
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
It's actually one of the few self regulating things we have done well. Every appliance I have purchased in the last 10 years (literally thousands of items professionally) has an energy star sticker on it. Almost every residential company does it, even though it is completely voluntary.
Here is what the sticker looks like.
And most low cost ranges (top part of a stove) use coils. Gas ranges are more expensive as a unit and for installation. So rentals will almost always have electric. Especially since power is usually paid by the tenant.
And with the discovery of how bad gas stoves are for both you and the environment, they're becoming less attractive.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
My parents had carpet in the bathroom when I was a kid, and the carpet went up the side of the tub. When I was a kid and used their tub when they were at work (it was a whirlpool too, leave me alone) I loved it because warm carpet.
Well versatile is always better. I don't really want to be in the position where I need to go buy MORE tools. Hmmmm. I'll research em a bit more on my own. Thanks for the advice everyone!
It's always hard to know what I'll need to make in the future. Maybe I wanna make a rad bench or table or something for the yard.
Projects are the excuses I use to buy *more* tools!
A lot of those are just "Okay, you didn't measure, or you cut first and only realized the fuck-up afterward" but then there's the lady who doesn't use cutting boards. Why? Why would you not use a cutting board? Why would anyone ever just slap their food down on the table and start cutting? For fuck sake, even if you have some kind of aversion to cutting boards or maybe OP only has wooden cutting boards they use for meat and the girlfriend is vegan...plates! Shit's going on a plate, right? Cut it on the plate! I'm just excessively angry about this.
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
It's actually one of the few self regulating things we have done well. Every appliance I have purchased in the last 10 years (literally thousands of items professionally) has an energy star sticker on it. Almost every residential company does it, even though it is completely voluntary.
Here is what the sticker looks like.
And most low cost ranges (top part of a stove) use coils. Gas ranges are more expensive as a unit and for installation. So rentals will almost always have electric. Especially since power is usually paid by the tenant.
Like, the cheapest style looks generally like this for around 200€ maybe
I've never in my whole live seen a range with exposed coils.
But for under 300€ you also can get a cheap one with a ceramic range top which now most places have, either free standing or more often built into the kitchen counter. Maybe 400-500 and upwards for something better where the oven also comes with convection heating and/or pyrolysis
Oven plus induction range are starting at about 500€ but probably more around 750€ upwards for something decent.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Judging from the boards here it really seems that in regards to appliances like washers, dryers, ovens (heating coils? like in Mad Men?), etc. the US is really doing its own thing. Does the US have an energy rating system for electric appliances?
It's actually one of the few self regulating things we have done well. Every appliance I have purchased in the last 10 years (literally thousands of items professionally) has an energy star sticker on it. Almost every residential company does it, even though it is completely voluntary.
Here is what the sticker looks like.
And most low cost ranges (top part of a stove) use coils. Gas ranges are more expensive as a unit and for installation. So rentals will almost always have electric. Especially since power is usually paid by the tenant.
And with the discovery of how bad gas stoves are for both you and the environment, they're becoming less attractive.
Personal preference, I am all for Induction Cooktops. If I replace my range, I'm going induction, it heats the pan hotter faster, but it is safer because if you accidentally touch the "burner" it won't burn you. There is much less heat in the kitchen, and the heat is more consistent than gas.
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Kitchen reno update:
All uppers are off the wall. FIL coming this weekend for us to work on electrical. I have a couple minor plumbing fixes as well.
Have to relocate a floor vent so it gets directed to a toe kick vent.
Floor gets ripped up and replaced next week, with cabinets to follow the week after.
Are the power requirements/usage any different for an induction cooktop vs electric?
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
I would imagine you could still get burnt by touching the surface of an induction burner on account of it may have a screaming hot pan sitting on it and heat transfer is a thing. So I wouldn't pick up a pot of boiling water and expect the induction burner surface not to be hot where the pot was sitting.
Well versatile is always better. I don't really want to be in the position where I need to go buy MORE tools. Hmmmm. I'll research em a bit more on my own. Thanks for the advice everyone!
It's always hard to know what I'll need to make in the future. Maybe I wanna make a rad bench or table or something for the yard.
Projects are the excuses I use to buy *more* tools!
I bought a table saw last fall, and I now own four additional saws, several new power tools, several new hand tools, too many but not enough clamps, and a bunch of weird things that only serve to make using those tools more convenient or safer.
I think the miter saw stand I’m building now is the first time I’ve managed to buy only materials, and that’s mostly just because I hesitated on buying a planer on deep discount a week ago and it went off sale.
Yeah I'm planning for induction to replace my old coil range.
That said I'm annoyed by the "gas is bad for the environment and you personally" stuff that's come up recently.
Like yes, natural gas is bad for the CO2 but pretending like gas stovetops have anything but the most minor influence is just another piece of propaganda trying to tie everything to personal responsibility, and let's never, ever, think about holding the oil industry responsible, or making any of the real systemic changes we need to make.
The thing about the indoor air quality is just way overblown. I hope you never burn candles inside either.
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
I would imagine you could still get burnt by touching the surface of an induction burner on account of it may have a screaming hot pan sitting on it and heat transfer is a thing. So I wouldn't pick up a pot of boiling water and expect the induction burner surface not to be hot where the pot was sitting.
It will still be hot for a bit, yes, just because the ceramic will retain the heat for a bit. But it cools down way faster and is only hot where the pot actually sat, as the heating area only heats up where metal sits on it not the whole heating area.
The humming/buzzing sound induction makes is something to get used to, too, when you're coming from silent electric stove tops.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
I just use plastic OXO boards and will replace them when they get too gross or nicked up.
Knives are Victorinox and IKEA, so not too worried about keeping them pristine, but yeah not going to cut on the granite countertop.
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Cutting board costs between 6 and 90 bucks.
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Cutting board costs between 6 and 90 bucks.
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Cutting board costs between 6 and 90 bucks.
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
It's not cheap, but I swear by it. As a bonus, it's heavy enough that I could absolutely clobber any assassins seeking to assault me while cooking.
Maybe it's user error but even if one of those is exceedingly heavy, it'll manage to walk on me mid-use without rubber feet. (I'm just sparking conversation btw; I would totally use one of those)
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For the smell, a top tip is to wipe down the gasket now and again, and maybe once a month run a hot drum cleaning cycle (unless you already regularly wash sheets or towels hot).
Most of the world nowadays use front loaders, top loaders seem to be an Americas thing - they're still big in the US and Latin America)
(disclaimer: I work at a whitegoods manufacturer, and may be biased)
this is good but i'd like to suggest giving white vinegar a try. you can snag the monks from costco for fairly cheap and it's a less hazardous solution to clothing but will still get rid of most things you don't want like mildew and lime build up. Also good to run a cup in the dishwasher every month or so to help glass look fresher.
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They also have one built more like a traditional rasp, I have both and use each in different circumstances. For the door edge the planer style one would let you go down the length of it without the handle being in the way. Its basically a bunch of rivetted bandsaw blades and handy for shaping plastic and other materials you wouldn't want to mess up your stitched rasps on.
Yeah, we have Energy Star ratings on pretty much all appliances.
Does the rest of the world not have cheap/old electric ranges with exposed coil burners? What do your cheap stoves look like? Or does just everybody have gas?
This. I bought a clamping fence 3 yrs ago when we bought a "butcher block" countertop from Ikea (it was just a veneer).
Just like with a compound miter: take the time to get your setup dialed in and it's just fine.
My old front loader didn't have a fancy self cleaning cycle so I just ran a normal wash with some bleach every few months. Still left it open to dry for a day. I think that does more to help keep crud from growing in there than anything else.
That is all to say that I've never had a problem with my front loader getting stinky.
It's actually one of the few self regulating things we have done well. Every appliance I have purchased in the last 10 years (literally thousands of items professionally) has an energy star sticker on it. Almost every residential company does it, even though it is completely voluntary.
Here is what the sticker looks like.
And most low cost ranges (top part of a stove) use coils. Gas ranges are more expensive as a unit and for installation. So rentals will almost always have electric. Especially since power is usually paid by the tenant.
My thinking is I could trim my doors down using a circular saw (I got a little 4-1/2 inch one) with a straight edge clamped on as a guide. But as I foresee potentially needing to trim 1/8 inch or less from some of these doors, I'm not so sure the circ saw is a great choice for that. But also, I don't want to have to buy yet another tool since I don't currently own a planer.
Haven't been able to find via internet search what the "right" tool for the job is, there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus.
At the end of the day you're trying to remove a relatively small amount of wood from a large object in a straight line. The best tool is probably going to come down a combination of how thick the piece is you're cutting off and what tools you own. Over 1/4" thick I'd absolutely go with a circular saw and a guide. Between 1/8th and 1/4 I'd probably still do that because I don't own a planer but that might be a good choice. A belt sander would probably work as well but mine's busted, so... circular saw. At below 1/8th of an inch a planer would probably be a good choice, or a belt sander. I'd probably end up using an orbital sander unless I felt like buying a new tool.
I need something to cut wood. I currently have nothing. I want to cut baseboards, molding, make some simple boxes, maybe a tiny deck, etc etc etc. If I were to buy a single wood cutting machine, what should I get?
Ignoring price and working area limitations, I'd recommend a table saw. Most of the things you listed you'd actually be better off with a miter saw as decking and moldings are all going to just be straight or miter cuts. But there are a lot of things a table saw can do a miter saw can't - like cutting dados or ripping sheets of plywood for making boxes.
You could also get a circular saw and buy/build a little table to turn it into a low-power table saw but you'd be really pushing it in terms of blade diameter for cutting up dimensional lumber for a deck.
I'd suggest a light jobsite mitersaw
Based on what you've listed as a need (baseboards, moulding, decking) would all be covered by a miter saw. Get something that can rotate 45 degrees and not a basic chop saw (that just goes up and down for example).
As far as boxes you'll need a table saw unless you got a compound miter saw - some of those stretch out past twelve inches.
It's always hard to know what I'll need to make in the future. Maybe I wanna make a rad bench or table or something for the yard.
And with the discovery of how bad gas stoves are for both you and the environment, they're becoming less attractive.
But now, holy shit ew.
Projects are the excuses I use to buy *more* tools!
Then I scrolled down
A lot of those are just "Okay, you didn't measure, or you cut first and only realized the fuck-up afterward" but then there's the lady who doesn't use cutting boards. Why? Why would you not use a cutting board? Why would anyone ever just slap their food down on the table and start cutting? For fuck sake, even if you have some kind of aversion to cutting boards or maybe OP only has wooden cutting boards they use for meat and the girlfriend is vegan...plates! Shit's going on a plate, right? Cut it on the plate! I'm just excessively angry about this.
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Like, the cheapest style looks generally like this for around 200€ maybe
I've never in my whole live seen a range with exposed coils.
But for under 300€ you also can get a cheap one with a ceramic range top which now most places have, either free standing or more often built into the kitchen counter. Maybe 400-500 and upwards for something better where the oven also comes with convection heating and/or pyrolysis
Oven plus induction range are starting at about 500€ but probably more around 750€ upwards for something decent.
The only downside is it is still spendy.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
All uppers are off the wall. FIL coming this weekend for us to work on electrical. I have a couple minor plumbing fixes as well.
Have to relocate a floor vent so it gets directed to a toe kick vent.
Floor gets ripped up and replaced next week, with cabinets to follow the week after.
We paid for the cabinets. God help me.
Itshappening.gif
I bought a table saw last fall, and I now own four additional saws, several new power tools, several new hand tools, too many but not enough clamps, and a bunch of weird things that only serve to make using those tools more convenient or safer.
I think the miter saw stand I’m building now is the first time I’ve managed to buy only materials, and that’s mostly just because I hesitated on buying a planer on deep discount a week ago and it went off sale.
That said I'm annoyed by the "gas is bad for the environment and you personally" stuff that's come up recently.
Like yes, natural gas is bad for the CO2 but pretending like gas stovetops have anything but the most minor influence is just another piece of propaganda trying to tie everything to personal responsibility, and let's never, ever, think about holding the oil industry responsible, or making any of the real systemic changes we need to make.
The thing about the indoor air quality is just way overblown. I hope you never burn candles inside either.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
It will still be hot for a bit, yes, just because the ceramic will retain the heat for a bit. But it cools down way faster and is only hot where the pot actually sat, as the heating area only heats up where metal sits on it not the whole heating area.
The humming/buzzing sound induction makes is something to get used to, too, when you're coming from silent electric stove tops.
Knives are Victorinox and IKEA, so not too worried about keeping them pristine, but yeah not going to cut on the granite countertop.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CMV1VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not cheap, but I swear by it. As a bonus, it's heavy enough that I could absolutely clobber any assassins seeking to assault me while cooking.
Maybe it's user error but even if one of those is exceedingly heavy, it'll manage to walk on me mid-use without rubber feet. (I'm just sparking conversation btw; I would totally use one of those)