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House/Homeowner Thread: This is no longer a quick or little project
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Cutting board costs between 6 and 90 bucks.
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
I don’t like butcher block countertops. And if I’m going to physically do the work of an install I want something that will last for a long time. And that I don’t have to keep treating.
For a rental I’d definitely not install it because your supposed to treat it regularly and tenants won’t. So it’s going to inevitably get super jacked up.
I have butcher block on the side of the house I "rent" out to my brother. He knows how to treat it and he doesn't mind. I have a bunch more in the garage but I haven't decided where to use it. Been wanting to do an outdoor "kitchen" thing by my grills/smokers with a working sink and all, that could be a nice way to use it.
Butcher Block countertops are sooooooo pretty. But the idea that I accidentally leave something wet or a little puddle on there and forget to clean it for a few hours (or overnight) and bam, permanent stain. NO THANK YOU.
zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
…Marine Grade plywood isn’t waterproof. It needs to be treated. The glue is waterproof so it won’t delaminate but you have to paint it, or at the very least put on a clear coat or it will rot.
…Marine Grade plywood isn’t waterproof. It needs to be treated. The glue is waterproof so it won’t delaminate but you have to paint it, or at the very least put on a clear coat or it will rot.
There's videos where she treats it and talks about exactly what's she's treating it with.
+4
MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
I kind of never understood the point of a cutting board to be honest. I have a countertop and I'm not allowed to actually do anything on it? I have a giant flat surface, and you want me to put another giant flat surface on top of it first? Just make the first flat surface the same material as the second flat surface and cut out the damn middleman!
Joke aside, yeah I use a cutting board. And honestly, depending on what you're cutting a plate sometimes doesn't work. The raised edges can sometimes interfere depending on how large a knife you're using and how flat you need the food to be. Still, if I ever end up getting a house built from scratch, I'm making the countertops out of some material that I don't have to worry about getting cut. Or maybe more sensibly, have a section that's a dedicated wood cutting board that's also removable and replaceable.
Anything hard enough to be damage resistant will dull your knives, anything gentle on your knives will damage easily as a countertop. I would be displeased at anyone cutting anything on a plate with one of my nice knives (exception for the steak knives), and the counter is made of quartz much like the oilstones I use to sharpen the knives so we know it is going to take the edge off of them pretty quick. Unsealed butcherblock, so you could oil it regularly, would work ok but you'd have to be ok with how the patina would look.
But maybe I'm finicky, I even have a small round of an ash tree I use as an 'end grain cutting board' on my workbench when I'm doing hatchet or chisel work where I'd otherwise score the workbench surface.
Cutting board costs between 6 and 90 bucks.
Countertop costs between 3k and 20k.
Counterpoint: I installed butcherblock in my tenant's unit for $400. Still instructed her to use cutting boards (which she agreed to) though because I don't want them looking like actual butcher's blocks within 6 months.
Side note: the Ikea solid wood butcherblock (now discontinued) is terrible at handling humidity and has warped and broken at the glue seams enough that I'll probably need to replace them in a year. Should have gone with the thicker Maple tops from Lowe's for the same price.
Here's a $100 jobber (may have been even less in 2020) from Menard's. Holding up well, just need to oil it occasionally.
Ah, silly past me thinking those were all right angles...
so you buy a house
among its many choices is this fucking sconce:
like that's ugly even by Grandma's house standards
Worst part, there's another to the left of the closet! And they're mounted at different heights!
I suspect originally these were not matching light fixtures, and I decided to return to that state of affairs
This is by the front door so a good place for some coat hooks.
However nobody makes any kind of integrated coathook/lighting fixture, so I made my own!
(ignore the missing light, one of the light shades we ordered came broken)
Took apart a thrift store lamp to get the goosenecks, got a piece of poplar and routed some channels in the back to run the wiring, finished it up nice and pretty. 8 screws into four studs so you could probably hang two people from it.
Pretty proud of this one. Now just need to get a new fixture to replace the other sconce, at least that one can be off the shelf.
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
I just use plastic OXO boards and will replace them when they get too gross or nicked up.
Knives are Victorinox and IKEA, so not too worried about keeping them pristine, but yeah not going to cut on the granite countertop.
If you were worried about nicking up your cutting board, you can do what I did last week and protect it with your finger!
Made it through my nail and a fair bit into my finger. Note to self: bourbon after chopping parsley, not before
Por que...no los dos?
I want to have nice, wooden, non-wobbly cutting surfaces for both meats and veg (and maybe another for seafood) but keeping wooden cutting boards not on the counter is a pain in the ass and plastic ones are never wobbly.
PSN,Steam,Live | CptHamiltonian
0
AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
I am about to lose my goddamn mind.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
0
Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
so you buy a house
among its many choices is this fucking sconce:
like that's ugly even by Grandma's house standards
Worst part, there's another to the left of the closet! And they're mounted at different heights!
I suspect originally these were not matching light fixtures, and I decided to return to that state of affairs
This is by the front door so a good place for some coat hooks.
However nobody makes any kind of integrated coathook/lighting fixture, so I made my own!
(ignore the missing light, one of the light shades we ordered came broken)
Took apart a thrift store lamp to get the goosenecks, got a piece of poplar and routed some channels in the back to run the wiring, finished it up nice and pretty. 8 screws into four studs so you could probably hang two people from it.
Pretty proud of this one. Now just need to get a new fixture to replace the other sconce, at least that one can be off the shelf.
tbh I'd save both of the sconces if for no other reason than I might need them in the basement/D&D room.
Also I'm glad the wall you wanted to put a coat hanger on has studs.
Ours has a stud.
That runs diagonally across a 5' wide by 20' tall wall.
(yes if I can find the contractor or especially the architect behind this? There Will Be Blood)
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Wd40 is also temporary at best. I had to use petroleum jelly to stop my nursery door from squeaking. It works really well, and the door is whisper quiet now.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
I have used butcherblock for various non-kitchen uses and it is fine with varnish on it in the laundry room and in a few different places in the basement, but I agree with Zepherin that keeping up with it in a kitchen where it'd need to be oil and wax instead would be a lot of work.
The cutoffs I've turned into cutting boars are not varnished. I apply mineral oil repeatedly until it won't soak in anymore and then apply a beeswax mineral oil mixture. It is nice having a great big board you can put a whole roast on or use as a serving tray.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Wd40 is also temporary at best. I had to use petroleum jelly to stop my nursery door from squeaking. It works really well, and the door is whisper quiet now.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. I cannot stress this enough. It's a degreaser - it will remove oil and grease from joints.
It's basically just kerosene and a few other things, but what it does is act to disrupt rust - which generally unsticks things and makes them slide more smoothly. But then the kerosene evaporates and you're back to metal on metal. You need to pick up a light machine oil (most hardware stores have a 3-in-1 generic oil for this) to provide proper lubrication to things.
Well this is good to know haha. I used WD-40 to lubricate my office chair, not only did it not help much with the squeaks but I'm also seeing black stains on the carpet and such now. Which I didn't understand, but if it's a de-greaser, makes more sense now. I guess I need to get an actual lubricant.
Origin ID\ Steam ID: Trajan45
0
MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Wd40 is also temporary at best. I had to use petroleum jelly to stop my nursery door from squeaking. It works really well, and the door is whisper quiet now.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. I cannot stress this enough. It's a degreaser - it will remove oil and grease from joints.
It's basically just kerosene and a few other things, but what it does is act to disrupt rust - which generally unsticks things and makes them slide more smoothly. But then the kerosene evaporates and you're back to metal on metal. You need to pick up a light machine oil (most hardware stores have a 3-in-1 generic oil for this) to provide proper lubrication to things.
Oh yeah, 100% agree. That’s why I said temporary at best. I didn’t even reach for it when I fixed the nursery door because of how useless it is as a lubricant.
I used petroleum jelly because it safe and doesn’t aerosolize easily, and because I don’t have any lithium grease and didn’t want a whole open tube of the stuff.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
WD-40 is great for its intended use, as a water displacing penetrant and rust inhibitor. Somewhere along the line people just decided it was a lubricant too despite it never having been advertised as one.
matt has a problem on
+6
zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Hanging doors is one of the trickiest god damned things. It is a 2 person job, and is a source of professional irritation whenever I end up doing door shit.
0
AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
I had some 3.5" deck screws laying around so I gave this a try. The drill got away from me on the first screw and I stripped it out. The next 2 however fastened tightly and... the door latches again! Hooray!
Anyone know how to fix a stripped out screw? I would like to get that other one tight too instead of just spinning freely.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
I had some 3.5" deck screws laying around so I gave this a try. The drill got away from me on the first screw and I stripped it out. The next 2 however fastened tightly and... the door latches again! Hooray!
Anyone know how to fix a stripped out screw? I would like to get that other one tight too instead of just spinning freely.
When you say stripped do you mean the screw is just spinning freely in the wood and you can't pull it out or you damaged the head of the screw and can't get a bite to turn it?
I am in the business of saving lives.
0
zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Wd40 is also temporary at best. I had to use petroleum jelly to stop my nursery door from squeaking. It works really well, and the door is whisper quiet now.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. I cannot stress this enough. It's a degreaser - it will remove oil and grease from joints.
It's basically just kerosene and a few other things, but what it does is act to disrupt rust - which generally unsticks things and makes them slide more smoothly. But then the kerosene evaporates and you're back to metal on metal. You need to pick up a light machine oil (most hardware stores have a 3-in-1 generic oil for this) to provide proper lubrication to things.
Every time someone says they want to use WD-40, they really want to use graphite lubricant.
0
AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
I had some 3.5" deck screws laying around so I gave this a try. The drill got away from me on the first screw and I stripped it out. The next 2 however fastened tightly and... the door latches again! Hooray!
Anyone know how to fix a stripped out screw? I would like to get that other one tight too instead of just spinning freely.
When you say stripped do you mean the screw is just spinning freely in the wood and you can't pull it out or you damaged the head of the screw and can't get a bite to turn it?
The screw is spinning freely in the wood. I can pull it out, but it won't tighten because it just spins. Need to be able to get it tight.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Sounds hinge related. You didn't just trim the bottom, you had to take it up and down a bunch of times. Maybe re-check the tightness of the screws in the doorframe?
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
I had some 3.5" deck screws laying around so I gave this a try. The drill got away from me on the first screw and I stripped it out. The next 2 however fastened tightly and... the door latches again! Hooray!
Anyone know how to fix a stripped out screw? I would like to get that other one tight too instead of just spinning freely.
When you say stripped do you mean the screw is just spinning freely in the wood and you can't pull it out or you damaged the head of the screw and can't get a bite to turn it?
The screw is spinning freely in the wood. I can pull it out, but it won't tighten because it just spins. Need to be able to get it tight.
Get a wood dowel of the proper size to fit snugly in the hole, then coat the outside with wood glue, insert in and let the glue cure, then cut flush with the surface.
Finished the miter saw stand I mentioned - significant improvement in usability over the wobbly low table left by the previous home owners that I’d been using:
Here’s the bench with the wings down - I wanted to try something similar in basic structure to the workbench I made a couple months ago, but with some added complexity and moving parts, so I chose this hinged design.
This is with the wings up, ‘level’ with the bed of the miter saw. Partly because the wings are so damn heavy, the far ends actually angle down just slightly, but they’re level at the close edge, so it’s working well enough at this point. I don’t know why the plans used full on 2x4 frames instead of just a sheet of thick plywood - finding an appropriate hinge might be slightly more difficult, but the table would be lighter and there wouldn’t have been so much opportunity to introduce an uneven work surface.
Also, you can see I mixed up the rotation on one of the wings so they don’t match, result of trying to wrap up during a lunch break. Absolutely no impact on usability, so I’m leaving it as a monument to the consequences of rushing (and because attaching those wings was a pain in the ass, even after getting the hinges level).
Finally, comparison with the table I had been using - it was functional but annoyingly low, and the lack of a level work surface meant I was stacking scraps of wood on various step ladders and clamping chunks of lumber to the edge every time I wanted to cut something longer than a couple feet.
Good project, major usability upgrade. Next I think I’m going to try my hand at planning a simple bar height table for the patio so I’m building things that are useful outside of the workshop.
I have used butcherblock for various non-kitchen uses and it is fine with varnish on it in the laundry room and in a few different places in the basement, but I agree with Zepherin that keeping up with it in a kitchen where it'd need to be oil and wax instead would be a lot of work.
The cutoffs I've turned into cutting boars are not varnished. I apply mineral oil repeatedly until it won't soak in anymore and then apply a beeswax mineral oil mixture. It is nice having a great big board you can put a whole roast on or use as a serving tray.
There is a third option for finishing butcherblock, Waterlox, that I think is the best of both worlds (varnish vs. oil). It's a hardening tung oil composite. Fully food-safe once dry, but dries like a varnish so provides much better protection and life than oil/waxes. And unlike a poly/varnish, if you do get the rare spot damaged, you can just spot-sand and re-apply, unlike poly where you'd have to strip the entire surface and refinish. The only real downside is the application process from unfinished wood can take a long time if you want to do it right (24hr per coat, 3-4 coats).
Can't see it in the picture but there is a dome, in the middle of those cut lines.
I hadn't noticed it until I was using the worklight in the room and it caused a weird shadow on the ceiling. What I thought had been minor water damage on the other side turned out to be so much worse. I cut the section then went up in the attic to knock it off the rafters, two hits with the hammer and it just gave and collapsed into the room below.
There isn't supposed to be a gap there.
About a 4'x3' section of the plaster had completely separated from the backer board. At some point they'd mudded over it and painted it to hide it. It was being held up by nothing but the integrity of water damaged 70+ year old plaster. Directly underneath that is where my daughter's bed will be going.
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
Your posts routinely make me feel better about my own craphole house.
Is that mold on the beam or just dirt/weird lighting?
Unrelated:
Riddle me this, house thread: I have two tankless water heaters now and while having a water softener and filter system installed today the plumber mentioned how I wouldn't need to flush the water heater as often, to which I was like, "Flush a what now?" He tells me that one should flush one's tankless water heater annually if you have good water - more often with water as hard as mine was. Then quoted me $750 to flush both. Is this a real thing? Or a "flush your coolant and blinker fluid at the car shop" kind of thing?
Posts
For a rental I’d definitely not install it because your supposed to treat it regularly and tenants won’t. So it’s going to inevitably get super jacked up.
For my house quartz. For a rental Laminate.
I kinda love the look, but can't imagine they'll be able to keep it looking like new.
Edit; also plywood floors and ceilings. I love the whole look. Watch this stuff https://www.tiktok.com/@b_brill
There's videos where she treats it and talks about exactly what's she's treating it with.
Here's a $100 jobber (may have been even less in 2020) from Menard's. Holding up well, just need to oil it occasionally.
Ah, silly past me thinking those were all right angles...
among its many choices is this fucking sconce:
like that's ugly even by Grandma's house standards
Worst part, there's another to the left of the closet! And they're mounted at different heights!
I suspect originally these were not matching light fixtures, and I decided to return to that state of affairs
This is by the front door so a good place for some coat hooks.
However nobody makes any kind of integrated coathook/lighting fixture, so I made my own!
(ignore the missing light, one of the light shades we ordered came broken)
Took apart a thrift store lamp to get the goosenecks, got a piece of poplar and routed some channels in the back to run the wiring, finished it up nice and pretty. 8 screws into four studs so you could probably hang two people from it.
Pretty proud of this one. Now just need to get a new fixture to replace the other sconce, at least that one can be off the shelf.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
If you were worried about nicking up your cutting board, you can do what I did last week and protect it with your finger!
https://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197970666737/
Por que...no los dos?
I want to have nice, wooden, non-wobbly cutting surfaces for both meats and veg (and maybe another for seafood) but keeping wooden cutting boards not on the counter is a pain in the ass and plastic ones are never wobbly.
Went out and bought a planer to trim down my new doors that are stuck / dragging on my new carpet. I started work on the door that was completely stuck and couldn't move at all because the new carpet is so thick.
I apparently didn't get a good measurement of how much material I had to remove. Every time I thought surely it will swing freely now and hung the door back up, it would get caught or drag somewhere else along the arc. After like the 8th time taking it back down, trimming some more and putting it back up, it finally cleared the carpet for the whole arc of the swing and closed properly. Fucking finally.
So I took it back down one last time to sand the bottom edge smooth. Hung it back up and... now the fucking thing doesn't latch. If you pull up on the door you can just get it to latch, but I have no idea how it wound up out of alignment on the latch from me trimming material off the bottom. No idea how to fix this now and I'm supremely irritated.
Oh, also, maybe the dang carpet keeping it from closing... was pushing up on it just a little bit in the way you're pulling up on it to get it to latch. Ironic. You could try the trick someone else mentioned of replacing the standard short screws holding hinge to frame with long (eg 3") wood screws to pull it into the framing. Doing that on the top hinge might lift it a little.
tbh I'd save both of the sconces if for no other reason than I might need them in the basement/D&D room.
Also I'm glad the wall you wanted to put a coat hanger on has studs.
Ours has a stud.
That runs diagonally across a 5' wide by 20' tall wall.
(yes if I can find the contractor or especially the architect behind this? There Will Be Blood)
You can also use a wrench to bend/tweak both halves of the upper hinge where the pin slots in.
Did I mention I hate doors?
My wife sprayed our bedroom door with WD-40 to keep it from squeaking and now it won't stay shut.
Wd40 is also temporary at best. I had to use petroleum jelly to stop my nursery door from squeaking. It works really well, and the door is whisper quiet now.
Thawmus et al, if you have cutoffs you want to use for cutting boards I like these feet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PMF77TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cutoffs I've turned into cutting boars are not varnished. I apply mineral oil repeatedly until it won't soak in anymore and then apply a beeswax mineral oil mixture. It is nice having a great big board you can put a whole roast on or use as a serving tray.
Well this is good to know haha. I used WD-40 to lubricate my office chair, not only did it not help much with the squeaks but I'm also seeing black stains on the carpet and such now. Which I didn't understand, but if it's a de-greaser, makes more sense now. I guess I need to get an actual lubricant.
Well it's 90% peanut butter, so yeah,
I won't say WD-40 is a scam, but it sure did a great job marketing as the cure-all. Their more specialty products are good though.
Oh yeah, 100% agree. That’s why I said temporary at best. I didn’t even reach for it when I fixed the nursery door because of how useless it is as a lubricant.
I used petroleum jelly because it safe and doesn’t aerosolize easily, and because I don’t have any lithium grease and didn’t want a whole open tube of the stuff.
I had some 3.5" deck screws laying around so I gave this a try. The drill got away from me on the first screw and I stripped it out. The next 2 however fastened tightly and... the door latches again! Hooray!
Anyone know how to fix a stripped out screw? I would like to get that other one tight too instead of just spinning freely.
Fill the hole with wood glue and jam toothpicks into it, let it dry and sand the surface smooth.
There are specialty bits you can buy as will.
When you say stripped do you mean the screw is just spinning freely in the wood and you can't pull it out or you damaged the head of the screw and can't get a bite to turn it?
The screw is spinning freely in the wood. I can pull it out, but it won't tighten because it just spins. Need to be able to get it tight.
Get a wood dowel of the proper size to fit snugly in the hole, then coat the outside with wood glue, insert in and let the glue cure, then cut flush with the surface.
Also, you can see I mixed up the rotation on one of the wings so they don’t match, result of trying to wrap up during a lunch break. Absolutely no impact on usability, so I’m leaving it as a monument to the consequences of rushing (and because attaching those wings was a pain in the ass, even after getting the hinges level).
Finally, comparison with the table I had been using - it was functional but annoyingly low, and the lack of a level work surface meant I was stacking scraps of wood on various step ladders and clamping chunks of lumber to the edge every time I wanted to cut something longer than a couple feet.
Good project, major usability upgrade. Next I think I’m going to try my hand at planning a simple bar height table for the patio so I’m building things that are useful outside of the workshop.
You're all 100% correct on its proper use.
There is a third option for finishing butcherblock, Waterlox, that I think is the best of both worlds (varnish vs. oil). It's a hardening tung oil composite. Fully food-safe once dry, but dries like a varnish so provides much better protection and life than oil/waxes. And unlike a poly/varnish, if you do get the rare spot damaged, you can just spot-sand and re-apply, unlike poly where you'd have to strip the entire surface and refinish. The only real downside is the application process from unfinished wood can take a long time if you want to do it right (24hr per coat, 3-4 coats).
I hadn't noticed it until I was using the worklight in the room and it caused a weird shadow on the ceiling. What I thought had been minor water damage on the other side turned out to be so much worse. I cut the section then went up in the attic to knock it off the rafters, two hits with the hammer and it just gave and collapsed into the room below.
There isn't supposed to be a gap there.
About a 4'x3' section of the plaster had completely separated from the backer board. At some point they'd mudded over it and painted it to hide it. It was being held up by nothing but the integrity of water damaged 70+ year old plaster. Directly underneath that is where my daughter's bed will be going.
Hopefully you can repair it without any further issues popping up.
Unrelated:
Riddle me this, house thread: I have two tankless water heaters now and while having a water softener and filter system installed today the plumber mentioned how I wouldn't need to flush the water heater as often, to which I was like, "Flush a what now?" He tells me that one should flush one's tankless water heater annually if you have good water - more often with water as hard as mine was. Then quoted me $750 to flush both. Is this a real thing? Or a "flush your coolant and blinker fluid at the car shop" kind of thing?